SergieL

Hey guys, need some info. Tampature was raising on fully built sleeved LSV turbo for about 1 second when I redlined it to 9krpm in second gear and kept It at redline for about 3 seconds but it dropped right away when I switched into 3rd gear. Also after I got off the highway 20 minutes later after normal driving, It started to raise up again on traffic light and i turned the car off and back on and it was normal after. When I got home, I let it run for 5 mins and it was fine. Sleeves are Golden eagle with cooper O-Rings. Any info would be appreciated, thanks in advance!

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Its more than likely a multitude of issues. For one its difficult to bleed the air out of a sleeved block and is best to fill the system with an airlift tool. Secondly im assuming its turbocharged what radiator, anything wrapped or thermal coated? heat transfer will make it raise on highway over time. Also what water pump 19t or 22t ?

SergieL

I have precision 6266 and I don't know what waterpump. Again, it doesn't happen all the time. This is the second time I see it do that. Only thing that I have head wrapped is my downpipe with dump tube. My electric fan isn't always running, maybe that might be my issue? I should rewire it to run non stop when my car is on?

DA-NINE

Sounds like possible cavitation of the water pump since it's at high rpm only. Check you pump pulley for tooth count and conditon as stated above.

m4xwellmurd3r

This. If youre running an ls pump and belt, its gonna caviate at high rpm and overheat. 19t stamp=ls pump, 22t stamp=vtec pump (stamp is in the face of the pulley)

SergieL

Have you guys considered that it might be wiring issue? I say that because when the Tempature needle jumps up at the traffic light, I turned the car off and immiadly turn it back on and it goes to normal tempature. Again, it's random!

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

What radiator, fan, and shroud are you using? It almost sounds like you have two different issues. The high RPM overheating from cavitation, and the idle (traffic light) overheating from an inadequate cooling system.

OneBadTurboCRV

OR the tune is pure ****. If the timing is way off it can cause overheating issues as described. Another thing to consider is the factory temp gauge is just about useless as it has such a narrow range of operation. Yet another factor I didn't see brought up is sure there are different pump gear counts but there are also different blade pitches to combat cavitation at high RPM. It all comes down to the details as a whole. Gather more information on your ENTIRE setup and start over OP. You didn't come to the table with enough cards to play.

SergieL

So it doesn't overheat in high rpms. I have done tons of pulls already and it seems fine. I have a fat Halfsize aluminum radiator with stock fan. The fan almost never turns on because it's OEM wiring. So let me explain this again. This is random. Will happen once or twice a day when I stop at a light and it raised up and as son as I pulled forward about 15feet, it went back to normal. Also, when I stopped at a gas station it started to raise for about 3 seconds and it dropped back right away. I don't think the car is actually over heating, just the gage is screwed it wiring is messed up because all the wires are lose under the dash. Someone didn't do a good job connection alarm and other things underneath

SergieL

SergieL

Timing is right and Tunned by speedfactory. One of the tunners in this area said that it's the gage or sensor because it's all random. Here's my build


Default Re: My Go-Kart
Car Tunned on 93 pump making 418whp and 312tq for DD, will retune for track before summer on race gas to 700hp
Drivetrain...
81.5 bore ls golden eagle sleeves
Srp b16 forged pistons
gsr block gurdle
Eagle rods
acl race bearings
new oil pump
port and polished b16 head
ferra valves
Brian crower springs n retainers
buddy club spec 3 cams
aem cam gears
Aem fuel rail
skunk 2 intake mani
880 cc precision injectors
Aeromotive 344 fuel pump
custom built FaceTunned ram horn header
precision 6266 turbo w ported housing and billed wheel
Precision 39mm waste gate
tial 50 mm bov
aem Tru boost controller
S/F oil catch can
Stage 5 unsprung competition clutch
gsr Trans

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

FYI when the stock temp gauge rises its really high temps that needle doesnt move past normal operating temp position till over 220 degrees. Step one get laptop hooked up so you can ee the actual temp. Step two confirm the fan is turning on. Also if your not running an OEM honda thermostat then immediately change it out for a new oem one. once you've confirmed actual temps and fan is running and its oem thermo you can move forward with diag. you should be able to force the fan to come on at lower temps. You shouldnt need the fan to constantly run in order to keep the engine cool. Really it should only need to run in traffic, idle speed and after a really hard pull possibly if the cooling system is 100% up to par. I can tell you stock fan isnt going to cut it with a boosted application most of the time.

Flr Power

The stock fan should be fine. There is something else causing this issue...

SergieL

So the gage just went up to 3/4 way and the fan didn't turn on. the car was parked and I let it sit running for 2 minutes to see what happens and nothing changed. I turned the car off for about 10 seconds and turn it back on and it goes back to normal, been running at idle for about 5 minutes now and everything is fine. Something to do with wiring or the sensor.

m4xwellmurd3r

How do you know your fan wiring and fan switch actually work?

The stock gauge is garbage anyways. My car is dangerously overheated if the gauge hits halfway. Most people would think half way is fine, but my engine would blow up if i drove it that hot

SergieL

I don't know, I've seen it turn on once this week

92Snatch

Have U tried putting a new temp sensor in the head? The single wire one. I had my car do that a few times and that's what the Prob was. And clean the connector to make sure it's no oil from the dizzy dropping down on it as well. If Ur running a S300, hook it up and monitor Ur ECT and see where it's at. But the constant jumping up and then right back down 5-10secs later sounds like a bad sensor to me

SergieL

That might be the issue here because the vtech selinyoid is leaking oil and I pressured washed the motor. So I'm sure that it had everything to do with that

PyroProblem

Sounds like the temp sensor for the gauge is on its way out.
Is it original? They're cheap enough to just throw one on there.

Logging your etc sensor would be the next logical thing to do.