henry9419

im gonna be picking up a b18b1 and im looking for some tips on rebuilding it for boost, im looking to get around 350hp out of the motor give or take a few

just reccommend me what parts i should change as well as what parts i should get, the motor has around 150k on it

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

stock motor can handle 300 safely with the right setup and tuner. if you want 350 out of it and want it to last get pistons and rods on stock sleeves and you will be good to go. also arp head studs are needed. Cams really help with an LS but for 350 stock will work with more boost. INtake manifold will work if its p75, older ones dont flow well

henry9419

What pistons and rods should i get? Ive heard the wiesco forged ones reccomended alot

In terms of gaskets and bearing should i just stick with oem honda?

So leave the cams or replsce them? If replace what ithers would you reccome d

P75 refers to the intake manifold model? Would the turbo just bolt right to that?

Would stock ls ecu be ok or shouldi get a diff one if so which one?

What exhaust pipe diameter should i get? 2.5 or 3?

Most importantly what turbo parts to get?

I would like the turbo to spool relatively quickly, so what would be a good turbo to get?

Probably forgot to ask about something but ill post if i think of anything

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

what's your budget for the turbocharger? What are you trying to do with the car? For the most part on that power, you just need something 49lbs/min or slightly less.
3" diameter piping is always preferred.

The stock engine does quite well with a stock headgasket for over 300whp. If this is your first turbo Honda, you should just go with the 300whp, and stay with that.
As long as the engine is healthy, use stock engine, stock headgasket, stock everything.

henry9419

Well ill save up to whatever it costs, but if i find something used thats decent I would prefer to get that instead of a new one, this is my first turbo honda, so on stock internals your saying i could get 300whp? But if i upgrade the internals I would be able to up the boost later in time? What should i chage for a goal around 400whp? (400 is an over estimate prob closer to 350-375) What controller could i get that i could have a few different maps so i could lower boost for everyday street drivig for better gas mileage?

In terms of a goal I would like to be able to beat a g35xs making 360whp

racebum

precision 5431e cea or a garrett 50 or 57 trim are the 3 that come to mind. flow is right in the area you'll need for that power level.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You can do that with 300whp, you don't need 400whp to beat that car. IF you uprate the internals then yes, you would be able to go higher, but that needs to be done from the start when you tune.

You would only change part of the map that uses a different fuel for your high boost pressure settings, if using pump gas for this power, don't worry about "different maps" until you're prepared for it. If you want 300whp now, that's fine. Retune for 400whp later with upgraded internals. (You would have to start from scratch anyway).

You won't have "better gas mileage" if the car's being tuned for power and decent drivability. you'll come somewhat close to what you want for gas mileage, but that's based upon the tune and your foot.

henry9419

The 400whp number isnt for that car specifically its more to say i have it,
I assume that it would be cheaper to go with boost to beat the g35xs then to go all motor, how much hp do you think i could make all motor and still be able to boost the engine? I would like to be able to prove that my civic can beat an expensive car without boost, i hope you get what i was trying to say

henry9419

In what price range would any of those run me?

Ohh and in reference to my previous post i know that you have to build lower compression for boost vs high compression for all motor so i assume that would limit how much hp i could make on an all motor build with the capability to boost

henry9419

How much of a problem do you think im gonna have trying to fit all this into a 95 eg civic sedan ?

SiRCiviC94

^ a lot by the sounds of your searching and research

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

Henry:
First, you need to go back to basics man. Sounds like your really not sure exactly how a turbo set up works and what is involved in doing it. This is THE most important step in building a turbo car, know what the eff you are doing!

Second, you will need boost to beat that car or any car with that much power, it could be done all motor, but requires a lot more money and time investment to do so.

Third, I think shodan's advice is what you should take. Turbo cars are not simple, and they are not easy, to build or maintain. You should not set your sights on a built 400+ whp car for your first turbo build, you asking to be set up for failure, and that's a lot of money to waste. You should check out that b18 and make sure it is in good running condition, fix anything that needs it. put in a good clutch, replace the headgasket and t-belt with oem honda parts, and use ARP head studs to bolt the head back on. Then you should do a basic turbo set up and shoot for around 300 whp for your first build. You will need:
-A turbo, not a junky ebay chineese one, a real precision or garrett, or turbonetics mid sized t3/t4, something like a 50 or 57 trim.
-Turbo manifold, any brand or style will do.
-Wastegate, try to buy name brand like tial if you can.
-oil lines
-boost gauge
-intercooler, charge pipes, and blow off valve, ebay stuff works fine here
-downpipe, best bet is usually have an exhaust shop do a custom one, preferably in 3"
-a 3" cat converter or a test pipe with no cat
-2.5" or 3" catback exhaust
-chippable obd-1 ecu, then send to someplace like xenocron.com and have chipped and base mapped
-2.5 or 3 bar map sensor
-550 cc or bigger fuel injectors
-walbro 190 or 255 fuel pump

Now once you have everything done and on the car, this is the second most important step after you learn everything you need to know. Take the car directly to a shop and have it put on the dyno and properly tuned. If you skip this $400-$500 step, your motor will not make good power, and it will blow up. If you do it, you will have a good running powerful car that you will be happy with.

henry9419

well to start THANK YOU for a really complete answer, now i know, how the turbo works and basics of engines, in terms of help building my dads been a mecahnic since 1980 on everything from hondas, nissans, to bmw, ferrari, and meseratis so im sure he could help with some things, but i know for a fact hes not gonna give me advice on choosing a turbo or anything like that, but he will help me if i run into an installation problem, my main problem though with all of this is choosing which parts, and making sure i get the right parts
ok yeah as much as id like to be able to make my car that fast all motor, i know i wont be able to afford that unless all of a suddent i stumble across a few grand on the side of the road and get a really good raise...make that find several grand on the road
since ill be rebuilding alot of the engine should i take the time while its apart to replace pistons and some of those sorts of things to make it better for boost, or should i leave the internals OEM honda, just replace them?
ok this is where im lost all the parts to choose, what brands to get, where to get them, etc, ill start with exhaust would it be best to run the cat for inspection only, then put a test pipe in, or should i get a highflow cat and leave it in all the time?
what sites would you reccommend to get the main turbo housing from?
in general where would you order parts from? is there one reputable site that has most of the parts id need?

ohh since im gonna be slowly saving and getting parts, should i save, and get the most expensive parts first, or get all the cheaper ones as i get paid, then save up for the main parts and get those last?
is it possible to tune it myself a little, just so itd be ok to get to a shop, or would be it fine as far as i didnt thrash it on the way to the shop? not that im planning on trying to blow up a motor,

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

You def want to let a Tuner time your car. As far as exhaust as open as possible is always gonna be better for power.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

IF your plan is to replace them by tearing the engine apart anyway, it would be best to replace the components with aftermarkets now, and don't bother replacing with OEM components.

You don't have to lower the compression to what you already have to be effective in the B18B. Stay with 9.0:1 or even slightly above to 9.5:1. Going 8.0:1 or 8.5:1. As long as you have over 9.0:1 you'll be fine.

This is where you have almost too many choices; all of them reasonable. The most recommend for the following should help you in the right direction. There are a ton of vendors on this site that can help but here are the major brands.
Pistons
-JE
-Mahle
-SRP
-Wiseco (My personal favorite)
-CP (My other favorite)

Rods
-Eagle (most sensible Point)
-K1 (another good favorite)
-Manley
-Scat
-Probe (a derivative as Scat)

Cylinder head
For 300whp:
-no need to do anything to the head, except make sure that the head is in good mechanical condition

For 400whp:
-Valvesprings /retainers (Pick from Supertech, Skunk2, Crower or others)
-Camshafts (Crower 404s are best with LS. They are NOT the same as BC or Brian Crower..please avoid that)
-better tune

Engine Managment
Use a P06 or P75 OBD1 ECU for either Hondata, Neptune, EcTune, etc. Stay away from Free software based systems..
OR
Standalone such as AEM EMS, Haltech, Motec, etc.

Time to check the Hondamarketplace and check the vendors on there under the Forced Induction Vendors site. This is where you need to do your work.

You'll need an ENTIRE turbocharger. Not just a housing. That wouldn't really help you much. You get a turbocharger based upon the build and components.

That depends upon whether or not you're doing this build now, or later. If you plan on taking it apart now, then get at least the rods, pistons, and bearings. Get the block to the machine shop and make sure that the pistons you get are with it.

Otherwise, Get your turbocharger kit first. Preferably from Go-Autowerks, and understand whether or not you want A/C, Power steering, and the like. Do not get the "cast" manifold kit unless you get his matching downpipe. Getting some independent cast manifold from Ebay will make you hate life, so stay away from it.

Therefore, it would be best if you get the tubular log manifold with his basic kit. stay with the 50 "trim" turbocharger, or something more equivalent like GT3251B that will allow water lines and better use in case you start road racing. Check out Go-Autowerks and see their "Tuner kit". That's the way to go to do it. And yes, get the whole kit.

Best to make sure things are running properly first, while having a basic pre-tune map given by MTBER (Xenocron) to get you running while you break in the engine before going for the tune. But let's cross that bride when you get to it.

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

This is assuming that the tuner the OP goes to supports CROME PRO. This is his first time, never assume he knows what he's doing on the first time out, by allowing him the opportunity to get it done without headache or concern for lack of supportability.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

ectune ftw

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I said that already.... focus on The OP, not just what YOU would do in his shoes.. . you're ok, but c'mon, give the OP a bit more than 2 word explanations.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

the only thing i dont agree with is your choice in cams, everyone on here seems to subscribe to this "NA cams work best" theory with the 404's on turbo applications, when there hasnt been enough testing on other cams to prove otherwise. If I was going to use crower cams I would have used 402T's. That's just me though.

Whiterice-gsr

i think you're way overshooting this man, get to 300, honestly i think you'll be surprised how fast a 2500 pound car can go with 300 hp to the wheels, i think u should start with stock, buy your turbo kit and tune for 300 and see what u think, theres a ton of **** u need to learn thats difficult to learn without actually just doing it. btw i destroy g35s all day long and thats not all i have an extensive llist of friends with fast cars that can't beat me, some of them in the 150,000 dollar range. stock motor boost to 300 and if u want more later then upgrade. just my .02

Natural Aspirations

And what experience do you have?

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

about the same amount of experience you have with torquing bolts on a aluminum block

Natural Aspirations

Really.....?? Ok you stop making cam comments and I wont comment on tightening oil pump bolts, Deal?

ROFL

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

lol You still call derek every 2 weeks for cam advice or do you have your own "theory's" now that you use for the disappointing results you continue to post.