STC dbb hunter turbo + db8 gsr = grocery gettin street car build
#76
Re: STC dbb hunter turbo + db8 gsr = grocery gettin street car build
yeah man I know the motor is solid. The only thing I change with his motors is the water pump and that's just because of corrosion from being shipped overseas.
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Re: STC dbb hunter turbo + db8 gsr = grocery gettin street car build
Nice. I plan on and already have the parts to change; timing belt, water pump, new OEM cap & rotor, spark plugs, NGK plug wires, OEM head gasket, arp headstuds, hondahabit oil pan gasket, & other gaskets along the way. Should be a solid leak free engine when I'm done
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Re: STC dbb hunter turbo + db8 gsr = grocery gettin street car build
Made some mounts for the intercooler
Intercooler mocked up. The cardboard makes it look like it's not level, but it is.
Installed my p28 ecu with jumper harness, also wired my wideband, and Mac valve to the ecu.
Got the engine and trans apart and mounted the engine to the stand.
All the stuff I pulled off
Pulled the valve cover and see this timing belt on it. Anyone know anything about this belt? Wondering why it was even changed cuz this motor apparently only has 50kmiles. Idk but overall this thing is super clean and doesn't have any oil leaks.
Intercooler mocked up. The cardboard makes it look like it's not level, but it is.
Installed my p28 ecu with jumper harness, also wired my wideband, and Mac valve to the ecu.
Got the engine and trans apart and mounted the engine to the stand.
All the stuff I pulled off
Pulled the valve cover and see this timing belt on it. Anyone know anything about this belt? Wondering why it was even changed cuz this motor apparently only has 50kmiles. Idk but overall this thing is super clean and doesn't have any oil leaks.
#79
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Japan for a very long time has had an overhaul requirement for every engine after it reached up to 50,000 - 80,000 miles depending upon its use, location, etc.
This means that every engine that the car had as it was registered, either had a brand new engine put into it, or an overhaul of its engine's major components every 50,000 miles. It was an attempt to keep old car from being found on the side of the road like we do here in America. So, ironically, even though every Honda engine that you can think of can go easily over 500,000 miles or more, they still have had this requirement for many years. I'm not sure if that requirement still holds true right now, but it was in place when I lived there.
This was a major reason why you had so many importable engines in the first place. In some cases, the car was not worth overhauling entirely to keep for the registered user. It was simply easier to junk a car or sell it for parts to get something new.
This means that every engine that the car had as it was registered, either had a brand new engine put into it, or an overhaul of its engine's major components every 50,000 miles. It was an attempt to keep old car from being found on the side of the road like we do here in America. So, ironically, even though every Honda engine that you can think of can go easily over 500,000 miles or more, they still have had this requirement for many years. I'm not sure if that requirement still holds true right now, but it was in place when I lived there.
This was a major reason why you had so many importable engines in the first place. In some cases, the car was not worth overhauling entirely to keep for the registered user. It was simply easier to junk a car or sell it for parts to get something new.
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Re: STC dbb hunter turbo + db8 gsr = grocery gettin street car build
Japan for a very long time has had an overhaul requirement for every engine after it reached up to 50,000 - 80,000 miles depending upon its use, location, etc.
This means that every engine that the car had as it was registered, either had a brand new engine put into it, or an overhaul of its engine's major components every 50,000 miles. It was an attempt to keep old car from being found on the side of the road like we do here in America. So, ironically, even though every Honda engine that you can think of can go easily over 500,000 miles or more, they still have had this requirement for many years. I'm not sure if that requirement still holds true right now, but it was in place when I lived there.
This was a major reason why you had so many importable engines in the first place. In some cases, the car was not worth overhauling entirely to keep for the registered user. It was simply easier to junk a car or sell it for parts to get something new.
This means that every engine that the car had as it was registered, either had a brand new engine put into it, or an overhaul of its engine's major components every 50,000 miles. It was an attempt to keep old car from being found on the side of the road like we do here in America. So, ironically, even though every Honda engine that you can think of can go easily over 500,000 miles or more, they still have had this requirement for many years. I'm not sure if that requirement still holds true right now, but it was in place when I lived there.
This was a major reason why you had so many importable engines in the first place. In some cases, the car was not worth overhauling entirely to keep for the registered user. It was simply easier to junk a car or sell it for parts to get something new.
#82
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Re: STC dbb hunter turbo + db8 gsr = grocery gettin street car build
pretty sure this is how hmo gets there motors I think they guarantee it has no more then 60k or something like that
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#86
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Re: STC dbb hunter turbo + db8 gsr = grocery gettin street car build
I see I was trolling the treadstone site today, Tr6 looks nice aswell good enough for most setups, Tr10 seems a bit overkill but at least you wont have to worry about IAT temps lol
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Re: STC dbb hunter turbo + db8 gsr = grocery gettin street car build
Head off and arp headstuds going in.
ARP lube and OEM gasket.
Head on and torqued to 80ft lbs.
Cams in, along with new gates timing belt and water pump.
Made a ghetto tool to do the valve lash lol. Ground flat edges on one of my 10mm deep sockets so it fit a 14mm wrench. Actually worked out pretty well haha.
Picked up these extended studs for the intake and exhaust manifolds
Intake studs in and a shot of my new and improved knock sensor lol.
Thermal throttle body gasket.
Hondata gasket going on with a little Honda bond around the coolant port.
Intake manifold on along with my id1000 injectors.
Quick question for you guys. I'm bypassing the coolant lines that go to the iacv and throttle body. Is it ok to just loop this coolant line like this?
ARP lube and OEM gasket.
Head on and torqued to 80ft lbs.
Cams in, along with new gates timing belt and water pump.
Made a ghetto tool to do the valve lash lol. Ground flat edges on one of my 10mm deep sockets so it fit a 14mm wrench. Actually worked out pretty well haha.
Picked up these extended studs for the intake and exhaust manifolds
Intake studs in and a shot of my new and improved knock sensor lol.
Thermal throttle body gasket.
Hondata gasket going on with a little Honda bond around the coolant port.
Intake manifold on along with my id1000 injectors.
Quick question for you guys. I'm bypassing the coolant lines that go to the iacv and throttle body. Is it ok to just loop this coolant line like this?
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#90
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Re: STC dbb hunter turbo + db8 gsr = grocery gettin street car build
nice good info. I have the skunk2 ultra so the IACV does dot directly mount to the manifold but very interesting
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Re: STC dbb hunter turbo + db8 gsr = grocery gettin street car build
My spoolin mini ram showed up Apparently soon they will not be making these anymore. Glad I got one before hand.
Did some work on the oil return line. I ground a slight angle on the return fitting for the oil pan so it pointed upward ever so slightly.
btw welding with a mig with gas in the wind is a bitch lol. The weld looks like crap, but it won't leak witch is all I care about lol. Anyway to get this kind of downward angle with the turbo sitting so low I had to cut the lip off the flange that mounts to the turbo, then retap it to 1/2" npt. After that I had to cut the extra threads off the 45* fitting that stuck up. After all of that I ended up with the proper angle for the oil return.
Also installed a Honda habit oil pan gasket and stud kit.
Speedfactory coolant neck on along with new OEM cap, rotor, and NGK plug wires. I also swapped on a non gsr throttle pully and ordered an OEM ITR throttle cable and bracket.
Oil feed line, oil pressure sensor for aem gauge on.
Oil feed line routed and secured. Damn my garage is a mess right now lol.
More to come soon...
Did some work on the oil return line. I ground a slight angle on the return fitting for the oil pan so it pointed upward ever so slightly.
btw welding with a mig with gas in the wind is a bitch lol. The weld looks like crap, but it won't leak witch is all I care about lol. Anyway to get this kind of downward angle with the turbo sitting so low I had to cut the lip off the flange that mounts to the turbo, then retap it to 1/2" npt. After that I had to cut the extra threads off the 45* fitting that stuck up. After all of that I ended up with the proper angle for the oil return.
Also installed a Honda habit oil pan gasket and stud kit.
Speedfactory coolant neck on along with new OEM cap, rotor, and NGK plug wires. I also swapped on a non gsr throttle pully and ordered an OEM ITR throttle cable and bracket.
Oil feed line, oil pressure sensor for aem gauge on.
Oil feed line routed and secured. Damn my garage is a mess right now lol.
More to come soon...
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Re: STC dbb hunter turbo + db8 gsr = grocery gettin street car build
Yeah I'll probably put it back on after I get some miles on it. Just want to keep an eye on the timing belt tension and make sure the cam seals aren't leaking at first. Although I never did run one on my hatch.
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Re: STC dbb hunter turbo + db8 gsr = grocery gettin street car build
IF you have no chassis undertray, use timing covers. Just because you were lucky in the hatch, doesn't mean you'll be lucky now, especially with debris in the streets.
Gates "blue" belts always stretch a little. (Which is why I don't use them), and then people start getting creative with vibrant & Endyn belt tensioners and other cute toys. For those that use them, I've found that they've slightly over-tensioned more than stock, (Not by much IIRC) and they're fine over time.
You'll know if you cam seal leaks in the first few minutes of start up by the gears.
You could always do this:
Gates "blue" belts always stretch a little. (Which is why I don't use them), and then people start getting creative with vibrant & Endyn belt tensioners and other cute toys. For those that use them, I've found that they've slightly over-tensioned more than stock, (Not by much IIRC) and they're fine over time.
You'll know if you cam seal leaks in the first few minutes of start up by the gears.
You could always do this:
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Re: STC dbb hunter turbo + db8 gsr = grocery gettin street car build
IF you have no chassis undertray, use timing covers. Just because you were lucky in the hatch, doesn't mean you'll be lucky now, especially with debris in the streets.
Gates "blue" belts always stretch a little. (Which is why I don't use them), and then people start getting creative with vibrant & Endyn belt tensioners and other cute toys. For those that use them, I've found that they've slightly over-tensioned more than stock, (Not by much IIRC) and they're fine over time.
You'll know if you cam seal leaks in the first few minutes of start up by the gears.
Gates "blue" belts always stretch a little. (Which is why I don't use them), and then people start getting creative with vibrant & Endyn belt tensioners and other cute toys. For those that use them, I've found that they've slightly over-tensioned more than stock, (Not by much IIRC) and they're fine over time.
You'll know if you cam seal leaks in the first few minutes of start up by the gears.
Did you get my pm?
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Re: STC dbb hunter turbo + db8 gsr = grocery gettin street car build
It's been a while since I updated my thread so here we go lol.
Pic of the intercooler piping I ground down the weld on the upper cold side pipe just for a cleaner look.
Intercooler piping finished and painted. If you look closely you can see the bracket on the lower cold side piping. Also welded beads on the end of the pipes to give the T bolt clamp something to hold onto.
Downpipe and wastegate dump finished wrapped and painted. I liked the bracket Lightningteg did on his dp so much that I copied it lol. Thanks for the idea Lightningteg!
A few pics of the bay...
Everything fits nicely
Shot of the intercooler and the cold air intake I came up with for the turbo. I'm like the way it turned out.
I fired it up for the first time tonight. I killed the injectors in Neptune and primed the turbo until the oil light went out then it started right up on the first crank, no check engine lights. I got the overall fuel trim set and idle afrs good, and set base timing. The only issue I ran into is the cooling fan not coming on, the ecu is telling it to turn on but there is no power at the factory wiring I have going to the relay. The fuse is good. I ran 12 volts to the relay and the fan comes on so for some reason the factory wiring isn't getting power. I might not mess with it and just use a different output to power the fan relay maybe the butterfly output since I'm not using that one with the skunk2 intake manifold.
Im excited to get this thing on the road and get the tune dialed in!
Pic of the intercooler piping I ground down the weld on the upper cold side pipe just for a cleaner look.
Intercooler piping finished and painted. If you look closely you can see the bracket on the lower cold side piping. Also welded beads on the end of the pipes to give the T bolt clamp something to hold onto.
Downpipe and wastegate dump finished wrapped and painted. I liked the bracket Lightningteg did on his dp so much that I copied it lol. Thanks for the idea Lightningteg!
A few pics of the bay...
Everything fits nicely
Shot of the intercooler and the cold air intake I came up with for the turbo. I'm like the way it turned out.
I fired it up for the first time tonight. I killed the injectors in Neptune and primed the turbo until the oil light went out then it started right up on the first crank, no check engine lights. I got the overall fuel trim set and idle afrs good, and set base timing. The only issue I ran into is the cooling fan not coming on, the ecu is telling it to turn on but there is no power at the factory wiring I have going to the relay. The fuse is good. I ran 12 volts to the relay and the fan comes on so for some reason the factory wiring isn't getting power. I might not mess with it and just use a different output to power the fan relay maybe the butterfly output since I'm not using that one with the skunk2 intake manifold.
Im excited to get this thing on the road and get the tune dialed in!
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Re: STC dbb hunter turbo + db8 gsr = grocery gettin street car build
Thanks man! Yeah I'm glad I went with the tucked radiator. I really like the way it turned out
Had a chance to get out get get some tuning done. I only had time to get the part throttle pretty close and up to 4lbs of boost on the low cam only witch is wg pressure. Tuning is going really smooth so far. I put a total of 20 miles on it so far lol. Seriously I think this thing on 4lbs without vtec is just as fast if not faster then my wrx lol. I can't wait to get the tune finished up!
Also I got the radiator fan working. I swapped out the sensor on the thermostat housing and now the fan kicks on, but for some reason it doesn't turn on until 196* ect even if I tell the ecu to turn it on sooner. On my hatch I alway set it to come on a 186*. Idk I'll look into it more later on.
Here are some more pic...
Had a chance to get out get get some tuning done. I only had time to get the part throttle pretty close and up to 4lbs of boost on the low cam only witch is wg pressure. Tuning is going really smooth so far. I put a total of 20 miles on it so far lol. Seriously I think this thing on 4lbs without vtec is just as fast if not faster then my wrx lol. I can't wait to get the tune finished up!
Also I got the radiator fan working. I swapped out the sensor on the thermostat housing and now the fan kicks on, but for some reason it doesn't turn on until 196* ect even if I tell the ecu to turn it on sooner. On my hatch I alway set it to come on a 186*. Idk I'll look into it more later on.
Here are some more pic...
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