Slacker93eg

FINALLY started the tear down on this damn thing haha. Basically got down to getting the cams out, was about to pull the head but quickly realized I'm not going to get this off with a 3/8 ratchet haha. Going to borrow an electric impact and see if I can get that to work. I'm using a GSR p72 head. Lots of pictures throughout - I've got a few questions throughout the posts I'd like answered, let me know! Thanks

Parts that I got so far:

GSR water pump
GSR oil pump
Gates GSR timing belt
GSR p72 head
LS trans
ACL race bearings
ARP head/main studs
Moroso oil pan
Blox intake manifold
Wiseco Pistons 81.5mm 10:2:1CR
Manley H beam rods


Here's some progress pictures.










Picked this up for 200$. Can't wait for more progress. I'll update this as regularly as possible with pictures of progress. This is my first rebuild/swap so wish me luck hahah.

phaphon

are you planning on just throwing the head on?

Slacker93eg

No I'm going to have it ported and put in new hardware

phaphon

hardware? are you planning on using the ls oil pump and water pump balancing your rotating assembly?

rich7777

I like more info please

blackeg

use any obd2 integra or b16 oil pump, they are the same as the type r's.

how high of a compression are you looking at?

Slacker93eg

By hardware I meant valves springs retainers etc, and I'll be probably running the b16 oil pump. I'm kind of undecided on compression at this point until I look into the math a bit more, but I was thinking 10:1 or 10.5:1 area. I'm looking for reliability as well as power output. I don't want to push the numbers too far, but thats also why I'm going to be building it as strong as possible before I slap it all together.

Your thoughts and opinions on this aspect would be greatly appreciated


Oh by the way, Happy New Year everybody, be safe tonight!

phaphon

Happy new years just make sure u get all the needed machine work done on the bottom block

non-VTEC

you wont get those headbolts off with that electric impact gun.

you need a long breaker bar to crack them by hand.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

He can if its a bug electric impact and not a dewalt one lol.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

LMK what you want to do with the LS cams..PM me

looks good so far!

Slacker93eg

Apparently my buddy has an electric impact rated at 600ft lbs lol, we'll see if that works! And Esoteric I'll PM you but I'm lookin to sell the head as a whole.

nealnanoHX

Plus one. Or a 1/2 air impact gun.

Slacker93eg

Okay so the super expensive snap on electric impact didn't do the job, it was worth a shot though. I'm just going to have to lug the motor to my work and zap them out with an impact. I'm kinda bummed I haven't been able to progress any further cause of this hah..

On another note, cleaned my IACV and FITV out, fixed some buggy wiring issues, and gave the rig a wash. It was 60* out today in the Chicagoland area, in the beginning of January. Awesome day.

More updates "hopefully" soon to come.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

you could easily get them out by hand with a breaker bar, but your trying to do it on a table, when the engine is supposed to be on a stand, so your never gonna be able to put enough force on the bolt to break it loose without the engine moving. My ingersoll gun would spin the engine around like a top sitting on a table like that without it being secure to something to gain leverage.

Slacker93eg

Theres an engine stand hanging up on the wall right next to the damn thing too haha.. Maybe its time to put it on

Nailclipper

well, idk if you have decided, but i put the B16 head on my own LS/V turbo with GSR cams and that baitch runs like a raped ape. 475whp on 18.5 psi, you won't be dissatisfied with it if you do it correct like you said. And a sleeved block is a phenomenal idea.

Slacker93eg

Yeah man I'm pretty sure I'm going with the b16 head. Seems to be more common to find, and more cost effective

Slacker93eg

Okay! Sorry for the delay everybody, was lazy and didn't have some tools at home. All is well now, got this sucker down to a bare block + the crank.

Here are some pictures

Head is off finally!


Dirty girls


Cylinder walls all look really good, no signs of any damage on the walls or pistons


2 and 3 both look a little bit crusty






Oil pan off


:D




mmm oily





This part had me confused, EVERY one of my pistons say "3" on them? Oh well, those aren't going back in anyway




Crank didn't look too bad


Is it just me, or does this water pump look brand new?


Can someone guide me on how to remove this tube? I don't want to break it, and I feel like I'm going to haha..




Almost a bare block



So it's definitely getting there, next step will be removing the crank and odds and ends left to remove on the block and have it sent out for sleeving/boring. I think I've decided I want to go with 9.5:1 compression. CP pistons and Eagle H beam rods seem to be a good way to go, any suggestions on rod length?

Can't wait for that tax return haha

Let me know what you guys think, oh, and if you're still using 56k, I'm glad your modem exploded.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

that thing has seen some better days lol

Slacker93eg

Hahah, yeah but hopefully soon it's going to look brand new

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

To tske that water pipe out just pull on it there's only a oring holding it in. If its really stuck spray some wd 40 or penetrating lube and let it sit than pull

Slacker93eg

Ok awesome pull it toward me and lube it up

Slacker93eg

So if I wanted to go with 84mm bore, and wanted to stroke it to a 2.0 what length rods do you guys think would be best?

kyden

stock length rods.

the numbers on the factory rod refer to the bore size of the big end for when you are getting bearings.