TeH PLAYA

well guys basically I have a stale CEL. I'm running JRSC/nitrous with Hondata s200 and p28 ecu and the car is an EM1.

Prior to the stale CEL I had a true CEL which was a code 43 (fuel supply), so I replaced my o2 sensor and reset the battery. Now the CEL is on but there is no code, and the CEL turns on after I start the car (it is not on when the key is on the number 2 position).

When I short the service connector with the key on the number 2 position, the CEL turns on, but does not flash, and turns off again once I remove the paperclip from the service connector.

I've heard that it can be a bad ECU. Should I swap it with my stock P2T real quick? I'm running 440cc injectors. If I swap ECU's (P2T or any stock OBD1 ECU), will the motor run pig rich because the ECU is not calibrated to operate with 440cc injectors?

I opened up my ECU and it looks like new. The Hondata blue box shows a solid red light, so I think that is still good. I also tried to see if it was just my fuel cap, so I filled it up with gas and disconnected the battery and the CEL still lights up with no code.

Other than the light being on, the car runs REAL good. Opened it up on the freeway and it pulls great

Any ideas or suggestions?

TeH PLAYA

Hybrid96EK

Solid CEL with no code indicates a problem with the ECU. I take it the ECU you have is chipped, no? You know how to solder? Heat up the joints and make sure there are no cold solder joints. Should fix the problem.

TeH PLAYA

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Solid CEL with no code indicates a problem with the ECU. I take it the ECU you have is chipped, no? You know how to solder? Heat up the joints and make sure there are no cold solder joints. Should fix the problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for your response. I don't know sh*t about soldering.. so how do I determine a "cold solder" and where in the ECU board should I exactly look?

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THE PLAYER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thanks for your response. I don't know sh*t about soldering.. so how do I determine a "cold solder" and where in the ECU board should I exactly look?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Based on this response, you should NOT be messing with the ECU. You will do more damage then good. Sorry.

TeH PLAYA

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Based on this response, you should NOT be messing with the ECU. You will do more damage then good. Sorry.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL

hey man, gotta start somewhere right?

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THE PLAYER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

LOL

hey man, gotta start somewhere right? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, but you might have something that is easily repaired right now, but messing with it and not knowing what you are doing might make it completely useless, you know? Its pretty easy to do things like use too much heat and lift a trace also.

TeH PLAYA

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, but you might have something that is easily repaired right now, but messing with it and not knowing what you are doing might make it completely useless, you know? Its pretty easy to do things like use too much heat and lift a trace also. </TD></TR></TABLE>

alright.. so I think it's safe to say that the problem is related to the ECU itself and not the s200 unit (which shows a solid red light). I guess I'll either track down or buy another hondata chipped p28 or I can take the p28 I have now and have someone look at it, perhaps my local tuner...

other ideas?

White Smoke

Its a problem with the ECU no question. Who installed you hondata? Take it back to them.