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I finally decided to commence my new build over the next few week after getting some parts in. 1993 Del Sol SiR import which I'm aiming at 500-600 whp once it's done.
Parts I got in so far include:
Darton Sleeves 84mm
CP Pistons 84mm (10:4 compression)
Eagle rods
FIC 1000 injectors
Doc Race ram horn manifold
ACL main & rod bearings
ARP main and head bolts
VSM cam gears
Full supertech valve train (valves, guides, titanium retainers, dual valve springs, stems & valve locks)
Cometic 84mm head gasket
ACT XT/Race Sprung 6 Pad ft/lbs 410
44mm Wastegate
50mm BOV
Ebay style FMIC
Ebay style Oil cooler
Walbro 255l fuel pump
Blox 12" Slim radiator fan
FPR
Skunk2 Pro Stage 1 camshafts
Skunk2 Pro Intake manifold
Skunk2 Pro-C Coilover
Mishimoto X-line 3 core radiator
Precision 5858 Journal turbo
Wilwood 4 pot brake kit
I've decided to go with Skunk2 Pro+1 camshafts and will get these with the turbo next, just need recommendation on turbo for my power goals!!!
Will be using Hondata S300 for ECU management. I know the injectors might be enough for my power goals but we'll see how far I can go with them before upgrading, choice of fuel are 95/97 & 101 RON.
Nice looking car, looks like a good part list so far though I'm sure others will come in suggestion you ditch the ebay intercooler.... which I perhaps agree on, but I've seen high hp builds using them successfully.
b20vtecvillian is running around 460whp on a comparable engine build to yours with a gt30 turbo, I don't even think he's running that high of boost on it either, so there's a decent chance you could break low 500s with that and still have some nuts spool. May need a better intercooler though seeing as you would probably be maxxing it out.
600whp on that fuel won't happen. Not without it being way too large and horribly unresponsive. As stated, ditch all of the eBay equipment completely, and will hurt your goals due to their inefficiencies.
Try going slightly smaller on the turbocharger or expect to use better knock resistant fuel.
I can always upgrade to a Mishimoto intercooler since I'm getting one of their radiators.
Turbo wise looks like Precision Turbo 6262 Journal Bearing T3 .82 A/R or the 5858 might be close to my target but if I wanted something to spool quicker then I'll have to go for a smaller turbo!
I can always upgrade to a Mishimoto intercooler since I'm getting one of their radiators.
Turbo wise looks like Precision Turbo 6262 Journal Bearing T3 .82 A/R or the 5858 might be close to my target but if I wanted something to spool quicker then I'll have to go for a smaller turbo!
Hehe. Poor man. Getting the wrong turbocharger and intercooler parts to start with already.
Hehe. Poor man. Getting the wrong turbocharger and intercooler parts to start with already.
Yay I'm becoming more smart about this stuff than people with better builds than mine : D
Seriously dawg, I dunno but all the mishimoto intercoolers I've seen are small and don't support much power, I would rather go ebay at that point. A 5858 could work for him pretty well though, right shodan? I still think there's a good chance he could push the the gt30 into the 500s wheel, and have plenty great spool and obviously a **** load of power.
Still need Mr Shodan to confirm.
Yay I'm becoming more smart about this stuff than people with better builds than mine : D
Seriously dawg, I dunno but all the mishimoto intercoolers I've seen are small and don't support much power, I would rather go ebay at that point. A 5858 could work for him pretty well though, right shodan? I still think there's a good chance he could push the the gt30 into the 500s wheel, and have plenty great spool and obviously a **** load of power.
Still need Mr Shodan to confirm.
Stay Garrett on the turbocharger, regardless. GT30 would be fantastic if possible, but there are others in the line.
As for Mishimoto Intercoolers. Its not just that they are small, its that it takes a HUGE one to make any reasonable power due to the less efficient fin design, and need for big surface area to produce any power.
Is the GT30 a BB or does it come with journal bearing option too?
What are the 5831 & 5931 like?
Been quoted $835 for 5858 with journal bearings.
The GT30R combinations are all ball-bearing, but there are some Garrett combinations from independent companies that are journal bearing that give similar results, slightly above the Precision prices with a better track record.
GT30R cast wheel options are still relatively affordable.
You should be fine with the eBay intercooler, I've seen them run successfully including the other day i saw a crxracing one used on a single turbo 370z making 590whp (i think, somewhere around there) and nearly 500tq...the intercooler was rated for 550 and it was a sunny day in Florida so it must've worked well enough (though they were using a 6266, pretty beefy turbo for that power so it probably helped iat a bit, but it's also a rwd car so it had more hp at the crank than a honda)
Would still rather buy one of those than a mishimoto, you can source some things out to eBay just ne careful, piping and IC are the most reliable to do so with obviously.
Engine's out ready for tear down and shell sent to the body shop. Will update over the next 4-6 weeks with engine work and when the body shop is done with shell.
Going no where with my old builder and months of delay I've ditched him and gone else where and since then we made hell of a progress.
I had to send block and head to for machining else where after sat nearly 7 months at the old builder giving excuses after excuses.
Things have gone so quick that now at this rate I'm hoping to have the engine in the car by next week.
Only thing I seem to be struggling with now is installing the oil sandwich plate as these JDM B16 didn't come with oil cooler and the oil sandwich plate won't sit flat on the block without touching someone thing on the block it self and finding a 0.060 or 0.065 oil restrictor since most out there seem to be for BB turbos and 0.035" or 0.040".
Special thanks for the guys @ www.phearable.net they've been very accommodating with my S300 v3 order and can't wait to test this thing in the car soon.
We'll finally got her started yesterday and it fired up straight away after priming. Took us about good hour or so to figure out the leak from the throttle body as the thermal gasket wasn't the right size, but the guys down the garage literately think out of the box and made a paper gasket out of a card board until I get OEM or right size thermal gasket. The 10:4 pistons and 0.030 head gasket result was a very high compression, 270psi on all 4 cylinders. Will update more once its tune, exhaust is complete as at the moment just running 3" down pipe and across to the back but no back box yet.
So some update on the Sol, tuner sorted misfire which was caused by clogged fuel injectors as fuel rail wasn't cleaned correctly after it was machined to take on the 1000cc FIC injectors. I also forgot that the builder told me the fan was wired the wrong way (push instead of pull) and he hinted that the wastegate is leaking as it's not sealing all the way on the exhaust flange and the tuner also pointed the low idle oil pressure (using full synthetic 5w30) which was 0.8 bar (11 psi) after the engine warmed up.
On way back from tuner (25 miles trip) oil pressure was at about 4.8 bar (70 psi) at 5000 RPM and temperature stayed at 93 Celsius (200 Fahrenheit). Almost 2 miles away from home and stated to see some smoke from the front and as driving in town temperature went up to 103 Celsius (217 Fahrenheit).
At the traffic lights I stopped the car to try and get the temperature down but when the lights changed the car won't start up (guess over heat protection). Eventually when I got the car onto a safe place and opened the hood I found that one of the low profile bolts for the holding the cam had snapped and oil was leaking from the front onto the manifold which was the cause of the smoke. A contributor to this was the oil catch tank hose points that were touching the manifold and pushing upwards as well the high vibration that caused that bolt to snap.
Anyhoooo, new cam cover with catch can points at a different point and clearing the manifold, new bolts for the cam cover and gasket, topped up oil with half a litre and rewired the fan correctly.
Left car running idle for almost 45 minutes, no oil leaks, no smoke, temperature didn't go above 85 Celsious (185 Fehrenheit) so all good now, just to run the engine in for the next 500-800 miles and replace the wastegate to fix the leak before I go in for full tune.
Tuner says he's set the Rev at 5000 but I'm sure I managed just over that when I took the car out for drive after sorting the above issues and managed to see 5 PSI on the gauge around the 5000 RPM.
** TheShodan, you're right that PET 5858 is big, might have to try and find something that spools a little bit quicker.
So some update on the Sol, tuner sorted misfire which was caused by clogged fuel injectors as fuel rail wasn't cleaned correctly after it was machined to take on the 1000cc FIC injectors. I also forgot that the builder told me the fan was wired the wrong way (push instead of pull) and he hinted that the wastegate is leaking as it's not sealing all the way on the exhaust flange and the tuner also pointed the low idle oil pressure (using full synthetic 5w30) which was 0.8 bar (11 psi) after the engine warmed up.
On way back from tuner (25 miles trip) oil pressure was at about 4.8 bar (70 psi) at 5000 RPM and temperature stayed at 93 Celsius (200 Fahrenheit). Almost 2 miles away from home and stated to see some smoke from the front and as driving in town temperature went up to 103 Celsius (217 Fahrenheit).
At the traffic lights I stopped the car to try and get the temperature down but when the lights changed the car won't start up (guess over heat protection). Eventually when I got the car onto a safe place and opened the hood I found that one of the low profile bolts for the holding the cam had snapped and oil was leaking from the front onto the manifold which was the cause of the smoke. A contributor to this was the oil catch tank hose points that were touching the manifold and pushing upwards as well the high vibration that caused that bolt to snap.
Anyhoooo, new cam cover with catch can points at a different point and clearing the manifold, new bolts for the cam cover and gasket, topped up oil with half a litre and rewired the fan correctly.
Left car running idle for almost 45 minutes, no oil leaks, no smoke, temperature didn't go above 85 Celsious (185 Fehrenheit) so all good now, just to run the engine in for the next 500-800 miles and replace the wastegate to fix the leak before I go in for full tune.
Tuner says he's set the Rev at 5000 but I'm sure I managed just over that when I took the car out for drive after sorting the above issues and managed to see 5 PSI on the gauge around the 5000 RPM.
** TheShodan, you're right that PET 5858 is big, might have to try and find something that spools a little bit quicker.
1200 miles later, I finally made it down the dyno for a full tune. Low numbers but I think my tuner wanted to play safe sticking to 18 PSI saying he doesn't want the head to lift even when he knows I've used ARP head bolts. 306 WHP & 239 lb/ft torqu
Glad you stuck with it!! The tuner definitely played it conservative on timing (Your tuner may not be used to Honda B-series engines which love ignition timing unlike many factory turbo engines). Headlift wouldn't have been a problem if properly torqued anyway, so I'm sure next time you dyno he'll not be as scared to tune.
How do you like your results so far? Having fun with it? Scaring the locals?
Glad you stuck with it!! The tuner definitely played it conservative on timing (Your tuner may not be used to Honda B-series engines which love ignition timing unlike many factory turbo engines). Headlift wouldn't have been a problem if properly torqued anyway, so I'm sure next time you dyno he'll not be as scared to tune.
How do you like your results so far? Having fun with it? Scaring the locals?
I might go back to him or go to a different tuner, but if I thought the car was fast when I drove for the first 1200 miles then I was wrong. It now scares me as well as it scares the other drivers, the way it pulls you forward and almost feels as if it want to jump side ways.
My builder said he'd be happy to over torque the head bolts but he used the torque spec included with the ARP bolts, there was also mention that ARP now make different ones in silver!
08-29-2015, 11:31 AM
Project Blue
