oil weight for turbo setup..."searched" - Honda-Tech


oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"

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Old 01-25-2010, 01:13 PM   #1
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Default oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"

i've searched and depending on the build ppl run diff weights...can someone tell me the appropriate
oil weight for my build...which is a DIY kit runnin 6-8psi
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Old 01-25-2010, 04:33 PM   #2
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Default Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"

if its a stock engine you run stock motor oil weight aka 5w30. this has been covered.

stock bearings clearences = 5w30-10w30 if its built loose then you can run 20w50

IMO Brad Penn racing oil and it can be purchased from T1racingdevelopment
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Old 01-25-2010, 05:15 PM   #3
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Default Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"

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Originally Posted by Turbo-LS View Post
if its a stock engine you run stock motor oil weight aka 5w30. this has been covered.

stock bearings clearences = 5w30-10w30 if its built loose then you can run 20w50

IMO Brad Penn racing oil and it can be purchased from T1racingdevelopment
thanks
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Old 01-25-2010, 09:33 PM   #4
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Default Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"

i use brad penns 1040. stock motor too.
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Old 01-26-2010, 02:08 PM   #5
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Default Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"

i run Quaker State full syn 10w30

i've tried different brands but from the oils i've used, this holds up the best

would like to try AmsOil though
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Old 01-26-2010, 03:28 PM   #6
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Default Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"

yeah q state and castrol synthetics work good too. Im not a fan at all of mobil 1 or royal purple. redline is nice stuff too
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Old 01-26-2010, 03:42 PM   #7
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Default Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"

Valvoline conventional 10w40 here, 650whp SFWD civic hatch.
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Old 01-26-2010, 04:36 PM   #8
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Default Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"

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Valvoline conventional 10w40 here, 650whp SFWD civic hatch.
k, thanks guys, currently im runnin conventional pennzoil high mileage i believe 10/40 i'll just keep
runnin that.
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Old 01-26-2010, 05:19 PM   #9
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Default Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"

conventional oil works just fine. it doesn start to break down around 240 degrees but shouldnt be an issue. Ive been running castrol gtx 1030 in my car for 20k miles and its fine, when i pulled my oil pan the inside of the motor was clean and looked like new. bearings stayed mint so its obviously getting the job done properly. I tend to change my oil every 1500-2000 because im running a litle loose PTW and ring gaps and fuel makes its way into the oil quite a bit but a loose motor is better than a tight motor for boost. i can handle oil changes more often then killing motors

As long as your running a known name brand motor oil convention or not then you should be fine. just dont use the store brands . i dont trust'em

Im currently freshening up my engine and after the rebuild i plan on going with the brad penn though. heard nothign but good things about it. its just like rotellaT with the zinc addatives and what not but can be had in 5w30 and 10w30 which is proper weight oil for our cars instead of rotella which is 15w40. which isnt to heavy but it is in cold climates
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Old 01-26-2010, 05:19 PM   #10
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Default Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"

I have been told that depending on the tempurature outside you should change the oil to a

heavier oil in the heat and lighter oil in the cold. Is this true?
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Old 01-26-2010, 05:24 PM   #11
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Default Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"

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I have been told that depending on the tempurature outside you should change the oil to a

heavier oil in the heat and lighter oil in the cold. Is this true?
If you stick to 5w30 or 10w30 you should be fine in most climates. if your in a area that gets hot alot for long periods of time a heavier oil will be better just not to heavy. Also keep in mind keeping the number difference closer is better so there is less adatives and polymers in the oil. In the summer i tend to run 10w40 and 5w30 in winter

but everyone has their own opinions
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Old 01-27-2010, 04:26 PM   #12
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Default Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"

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Originally Posted by Turbo-LS View Post
yeah q state and castrol synthetics work good too. Im not a fan at all of mobil 1 or royal purple. redline is nice stuff too
that makes two of us, i hated royal purple when i used it, seemed like it was thinner than what the bottle said plus i found some glitter in my oil when i drained it lol never tried mobil 1 yet.....quaker state has me sold

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Originally Posted by Spoolin18 View Post
Valvoline conventional 10w40 here, 650whp SFWD civic hatch.
wow man, i have had many thoughts of switching back to conventional, always seemed better to me other than how black it gets after a short time

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo-LS View Post
conventional oil works just fine. it doesn start to break down around 240 degrees but shouldnt be an issue. Ive been running castrol gtx 1030 in my car for 20k miles and its fine, when i pulled my oil pan the inside of the motor was clean and looked like new. bearings stayed mint so its obviously getting the job done properly. I tend to change my oil every 1500-2000 because im running a litle loose PTW and ring gaps and fuel makes its way into the oil quite a bit but a loose motor is better than a tight motor for boost. i can handle oil changes more often then killing motors

As long as your running a known name brand motor oil convention or not then you should be fine. just dont use the store brands . i dont trust'em

Im currently freshening up my engine and after the rebuild i plan on going with the brad penn though. heard nothign but good things about it. its just like rotellaT with the zinc addatives and what not but can be had in 5w30 and 10w30 which is proper weight oil for our cars instead of rotella which is 15w40. which isnt to heavy but it is in cold climates
i also changed my oil every 1500-2000 miles cause like you i'd rather spend 25 bucks doing an oil change rather than rebuilding motors

Quote:
Originally Posted by LS AzZkIkr View Post
I have been told that depending on the tempurature outside you should change the oil to a

heavier oil in the heat and lighter oil in the cold. Is this true?
i run 10w30 all year long, if you read up on oil viscosities in different temperatures they show 5w30 being the best for all temperatures, but my thought was, how can it be better in hotter temps when it's thinner than the rest

imo i wouldn't run anything heavier than 10w40. 15w40 might work but i have experienced problems with running too heavy of oil before causing my car to heat up
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