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B18b stock longblock except for arp studs and cometic headgasket.
SpoolinPerformance manifold and DP 3" exhaust.
T04e garrett 57trim
1000cc Injector Dynamics
Type r intake manifold
Tuned on Crome by Scotty in Atlanta, Ga.
2 tune's were done.
Pump gas was 10-11psi max
E85 was at 15psi
Could have made more but decided to stay safe even on E85.
Pulls strong! Will have some videos soon.
I have my engine torn apart right now. It's currently na.
What I currently have(all was installed and running in the car before tear down)
Stock bottom end
Stock sleeves punched .040
P30s
403s
Crower valvetrain(dual Springs titanium retainers)
Nitrite coated valves
I'm looking to do a boosted build while I have it apart.
I have 2 questions.
First is: At what whp does everyone recommend a block guard and/or sleeves?
And
What pistons do you all run?
At what comp?
What hp are you throwing at the ground?
Boost?
Timing?
Yeah I know it's a broad spectrum of questions, that's why I started the post with the jest that "I am an *******."
This thread should tell you everything you need to know. I personally keep the longblock stock. In my experience, I have built a block before(forged internals) and had cylinder walls crack on a good tune close to 300whp because I was too cheap to buy a dual core or better half sized radiator and abused it on a hot day. Stock longblock allows you to get a proper tune and push the limits and if something happens...well drop in another 500$ Ls. I say stop around the 280hp threshold unless you have proper cooling components. As you can see above im on a VERY conservative tune for e85 making close to 350 wheel with good parts. I have a triple core half sized radiator dyno tuned on a fuel that allows more timing and a naturally lower combustion temp. I didn't have him push the timing to make a little extra power either. There are tricks to making solid power without buying expensive internals. That being said...I wouldn't hesitate to buy aftermarket rods because that is a known weak point in these engines...Just know that if something does go wrong...you have to tear apart the next engine just to keep the internals. Trust me, anything close or above 300whp is plenty for the integra/civic chassis. Good luck!
This thread should tell you everything you need to know. I personally keep the longblock stock. In my experience, I have built a block before(forged internals) and had cylinder walls crack on a good tune close to 300whp because I was too cheap to buy a dual core or better half sized radiator and abused it on a hot day. Stock longblock allows you to get a proper tune and push the limits and if something happens...well drop in another 500$ Ls. I say stop around the 280hp threshold unless you have proper cooling components. As you can see above im on a VERY conservative tune for e85 making close to 350 wheel with good parts. I have a triple core half sized radiator dyno tuned on a fuel that allows more timing and a naturally lower combustion temp. I didn't have him push the timing to make a little extra power either. There are tricks to making solid power without buying expensive internals. That being said...I wouldn't hesitate to buy aftermarket rods because that is a known weak point in these engines...Just know that if something does go wrong...you have to tear apart the next engine just to keep the internals. Trust me, anything close or above 300whp is plenty for the integra/civic chassis. Good luck!
I have a Mishimoto half rad, 19lb cap silicone hoses and oem water pump. Never went over operating temperature even with 8krpm pulls on a daily basis. I'm not opposed to running e85 either. There's a pump on the way to work.
I have had success running on pump for the last 2 years almost now on an auto integra I converted to manual with an original engine with 237k~ish (can't remember the exact mileage). making 270hp. keep in mind that when you slap a turbo on it, things do tend to get hotter in that area around the radiator. A Mishimoto should do just fine but...an added attempt like a shroud can do wonders on a hot day.
I have had success running on pump for the last 2 years almost now on an auto integra I converted to manual with an original engine with 237k~ish (can't remember the exact mileage). making 270hp. keep in mind that when you slap a turbo on it, things do tend to get hotter in that area around the radiator. A Mishimoto should do just fine but...an added attempt like a shroud can do wonders on a hot day.
Forgot to mention there is a 10 blade slim fan on the radiator as well.
Man, this thread is coming along nice!!!. I still have fully built stock sleeve turbo ls since 2010 making 420whp. It still puts a smile on my face. Next is to transmission with synchrotech gears with an LSD. Keep posting these dynos!!!
Well I finally got this thing together after a few years time between work... wife baby etc.
Right at the end of tuning I ran into an issue and it's stumping me...
Setup:
89 dx hatch
Auto to manual conversion
Dpfi to mpfi conversion
Monotech obd0 to obd1 conversion harness
81mm sleeved ls block O-ringed
Forged pistons rods
PnP PR4 head.
Crower 404s titanium valve springs and retainers
Custom ram horn
Precision sc6152e turbo
RC 1000cc peak and hold injectors
GM MSD 3 bar map sensor
Edelbrock intake mani
aem fuel rail and apr
Tuned on crome
Only issue I had prior to our first tuning session was a TPS CEL (#7) which was intermittent and went away with proper calibration.
16deg base timing confirmed
Anyways I got everything running we went out tuned partial throttle then started doing pulls on 7psi (on spring, waiting for boost controller) just to get everything going get a baseline. This is on Crome btw.
So we pretty much got everything tuned on 7psi felt good in that small Hatch for sure!
Coming back home partial throttle started popping and misfiring a bit here and there and we changed nothing on the live tuning at all for it to start acting up. Get into boost it breaks up a little bit and then off throttle I'm throwing big flames popping(hood exit exhaust). Park it for the night.
Next day I drive over to my friends to get a bigger waste gate spring and it starts breaking up even worse and at very light partial throttle too. Pull plugs. Black fouled. Replaced with new (7s, gapped .025). Clears up some for about 5-10 minutes of driving but still light popping/misfire. I'm thinking probably coil? But more symptomatic of an ignitor. I then change the entire dizzy (stock) with the friends known to be working msd cap/rotor dizzy with msd wires and installed a blaster ss external coil.
It runs the exact same. No different at all.
Mind you we changed NOTHING in the tune and it was same weather everything.
Burned a chip to 2 different computers to try plus the tuning computer. No changes.
New plugs nothing.
Mind you it always ends up with rich fouled plugs everytime I changed them.
Base timing is correct. The tune is good (we tune alot of cars) but we don't/haven't used crome in forever. I want to get hondata or neptune maybe eventually but I've never had a crome issue that I knew of in the past.
I'm guessing it's a ground issue
Engine ground? Trans? Battery has good ground...
(ecu grounded 2 feet away to chassis via conversion harness)
Wiring issue came loose somehow???
Bad Injector resistor box maybe?(have rc1000 peak and hold)
Injector sticking open?(Idles perfect though!)
Idles perfect. It's only under load.
Running a MSD GM 3 bar MAP sensor (could be bad?)
2 different dizzy setups and same issue is what threw me off. I could of sworn this was going to be a coil/ignitor/plug wire issue...
I'm lost with what to do next. I guess I need to start tracing every wire in the harness etc and see if something came loose because this isn't making much sense to me.
I'm thinking of buying a cardone replacement stock dizzy and trying that as well. If that doesn't do it I'm not sure what to do after that...
Are you able to data log with crome? If so what is the timing and afr doing when this problem is happening. Maybe try another known good ecu. Check your ecu jumper harness for breaks loose connections. Can you confirm fuel pressure is staying the same? Were the injectors cleaned/flow checked? Really imo you should ditch crome for something better.
What size brand wheels and tires are you running on that ef? Looks like that setup will haul *** once the problems are sorted out.
Im not completely convinced on the ignition setup, your friend uses all motor or a boosted setup? MSD ignitions dont work very well for boosted setups depending on which MSD box you were using
Are you able to data log with crome? If so what is the timing and afr doing when this problem is happening. Maybe try another known good ecu. Check your ecu jumper harness for breaks loose connections. Can you confirm fuel pressure is staying the same? Were the injectors cleaned/flow checked? Really imo you should ditch crome for something better.
What size brand wheels and tires are you running on that ef? Looks like that setup will haul *** once the problems are sorted out.
Tried 2 ecus... fuel pressure should be fine. Injectors were not flow checked. This ran fine during tuning it was moving on 7psi lol.
Im not completely convinced on the ignition setup, your friend uses all motor or a boosted setup? MSD ignitions dont work very well for boosted setups depending on which MSD box you were using
Was on a built turbo LS.
Made close to 600whp on c16 gas with this ignition. It's msd cap and rotor with a blaster ss coil that's it.
Well I finally got this thing together after a few years time between work... wife baby etc.
Right at the end of tuning I ran into an issue and it's stumping me...
Setup:
89 dx hatch
Auto to manual conversion
Dpfi to mpfi conversion
Monotech obd0 to obd1 conversion harness
81mm sleeved ls block O-ringed
Forged pistons rods
PnP PR4 head.
Crower 404s titanium valve springs and retainers
Custom ram horn
Precision sc6152e turbo
RC 1000cc peak and hold injectors
GM MSD 3 bar map sensor
Edelbrock intake mani
aem fuel rail and apr
Tuned on crome
Only issue I had prior to our first tuning session was a TPS CEL (#7) which was intermittent and went away with proper calibration.
16deg base timing confirmed
Anyways I got everything running we went out tuned partial throttle then started doing pulls on 7psi (on spring, waiting for boost controller) just to get everything going get a baseline. This is on Crome btw.
So we pretty much got everything tuned on 7psi felt good in that small Hatch for sure!
Coming back home partial throttle started popping and misfiring a bit here and there and we changed nothing on the live tuning at all for it to start acting up. Get into boost it breaks up a little bit and then off throttle I'm throwing big flames popping(hood exit exhaust). Park it for the night.
Next day I drive over to my friends to get a bigger waste gate spring and it starts breaking up even worse and at very light partial throttle too. Pull plugs. Black fouled. Replaced with new (7s, gapped .025). Clears up some for about 5-10 minutes of driving but still light popping/misfire. I'm thinking probably coil? But more symptomatic of an ignitor. I then change the entire dizzy (stock) with the friends known to be working msd cap/rotor dizzy with msd wires and installed a blaster ss external coil.
It runs the exact same. No different at all.
Mind you we changed NOTHING in the tune and it was same weather everything.
Burned a chip to 2 different computers to try plus the tuning computer. No changes.
New plugs nothing.
Mind you it always ends up with rich fouled plugs everytime I changed them.
Base timing is correct. The tune is good (we tune alot of cars) but we don't/haven't used crome in forever. I want to get hondata or neptune maybe eventually but I've never had a crome issue that I knew of in the past.
I'm guessing it's a ground issue
Engine ground? Trans? Battery has good ground...
(ecu grounded 2 feet away to chassis via conversion harness)
Wiring issue came loose somehow???
Bad Injector resistor box maybe?(have rc1000 peak and hold)
Injector sticking open?(Idles perfect though!)
Idles perfect. It's only under load.
Running a MSD GM 3 bar MAP sensor (could be bad?)
2 different dizzy setups and same issue is what threw me off. I could of sworn this was going to be a coil/ignitor/plug wire issue...
I'm lost with what to do next. I guess I need to start tracing every wire in the harness etc and see if something came loose because this isn't making much sense to me.
I'm thinking of buying a cardone replacement stock dizzy and trying that as well. If that doesn't do it I'm not sure what to do after that...
Any ideas?
Here are a brand new set of plugs with a partial throttle 5 minute drive after and idle warm up....
#2 isn't firing the threads are clean but maybe was firing at some point(porcelein).
It's not whether or not it's firing at all, but how it's firing.
Try another distributor with possibly a better ignitor.
OR.
More to the point, keep the distributor and add the Accel Ignitor into the current Distributor. It actually bolts right in, and does a fantastic job. Picked up one for my spare OEM distributor.
Damn plugs look terrible. Oil fouled too? I'd check compression on that engine. Is there oil sitting on top of the pistons? Or injectors sticking open?
Yeah I run that accel coil posted above and have good luck with them.
Posting the plugs just show if it's sparking evenly and some EGT indicators. I wonder why people here don't use EGT gauges anymore. hmm..
I have a pyrometer I just haven't installed it yet cause I was just doing some mild pump gas build on conservative boost <15 psi and I'm pulling .9 degrees per psi still as well. When I get the hondata, boost by gear, EGT in I was planning on turning it up some on a different fuel.
It's not whether or not it's firing at all, but how it's firing.
Try another distributor with possibly a better ignitor.
OR.
More to the point, keep the distributor and add the Accel Ignitor into the current Distributor. It actually bolts right in, and does a fantastic job. Picked up one for my spare OEM distributor.
This is the second distributor I've tried. I am thinking of buying a brand new dizzy (cardone) and swapping that ignitor in and see what happens.
I'm going to do a compression test tomorrow.
Base line before tuning was 180 188 190 193.
I haven't adjusted the valves after the heat cycles yet either should add that to the to-do list.
The misfire ended up coming in kind of gradually and intermittent and finally it ended up at this point.
I've got to get my friend over with his laptop with the crome pro on it also so we can try and datalog and trouble shoot that way as well. Still though we tuned for a couple hours and had everything perfect before this issue popped up. It's not smoking either other than start up just a tad.
07-25-2016, 05:35 AM
Re: LST / LS-T Turbo B18A B18B setups
