K20A2. Full-Race. A Long Journey.
05-20-2012, 03:37 PM
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K20A2. Full-Race. A Long Journey.
Sup Honda-Tech,
My name is Ryan. I wanted to make this thread to share my build, maybe give some knowledge, and to receive. I log into ClubRSX everyday and only lurk this forced induction section on occasion. I see that mainly this is B series territory. I myself started with a K series. So i figured i could share what i have to maybe catch some interest.
I'll start from the begining.
This thread is about a 2002 Arctic Blue Pearl RSX Type-S
I don't have any pictures of my car when i first purchased it in 2008, but it was in good shape. It had some HID's which i never like. Some yellow fog lights, Tein S-Tech lowering springs and a AEM cold air intake. At the time i knew nothing about cars, but now as i type this i'm glad it had little to no modifications.
I quickly joined ClubRSX to read and learn about my 1st car. It took me about a week to learn to drive a manual but i got the hang of it in no time flat.
my first couple purchases were ebay items. i bought a Ebay shorty header and test pipe for $50. Again knowing nothing about cars i ordered at random. Eventually put the header on, but the POS test pipe sits in my closet to this day. i Bought skunk2 rear LCA's and some Skunk2 Cam Gears.
The Cam Gears obviously served me no purpose and was a quick waste of $400.
About a year or so passed by and i was steadily online reading and learning about the K-series. i caught on fast and like a lot of car enthusiests looking to mod i wanted to turbocharge my car. So i saved $ and saved some more.
2010 Summer this was my first purchase towards boost.
A Full-Race turbo kit with:
Garrett T3/T4 57 Trim
Anodized Black Intercooler
TiAl Q BOV
TiAl 44mm WG
Black 2.5 inch piping
Basically the standard kit with anodizing option on the intercooler
For my birthday i got my stockies powder coated gloss black. As they needed some freshening up.
I soon started thinking that my engine needed some freshening to handle this kit. So i started making my engine build purchases. These were items that had all been used before in previous builds. Nothing special just piece of mind items.
I started by ordering some 9.8:1 Wiseco 86.5mm (.5mm over bore) pistons, ARP Head Studs, Manley Valves, K24 87mm Head Gasket, Innovative 75a engine mounts, a new OEM timing chain tensioner and Type-S oil pump, a Type-S oil pan with a 10an bung pre-welded, Competition Clutch Stage 4 sprung clutch, Hondata K-pro, K-Teller 3 inch Stainless Steel exhaust piping, Vibrant flat black 3 inch muffler. I FAILED to get a picture of my Manley Turbo Tuff Rods and Manley Dual Valve Springs, Fuel Injector Clinic 1100cc injectors, RBC Intake Manifold pre-cut to fit my K20 Head (the water housing is on the front of the K20 head unlike the K24), K-tuned Fuel Rail, 8an and 6an steel braided hose and 8an and 6an fittings, K-tuned 8an inline fuel filter and K-tuned FPR.
I brought the engine and parts to a local shop and had them assemble the engine with OEM bearings.
Clutch mounted
Fuel cage modified for return style fuel system. since the RSX is a returnless system stock.
During all of this i got into a nasty accident on the back of a 4wheeler which pushed my installing and tuning date back. Torn ligaments and 2 broken bones. Surgery was needed.
A metal plate and 6 screw later i started installing parts.
Over this long period of time i was looking for a tuner. There was a lot of happy customers that had went to Innovative Motorworks in Carlisle, PA. Derek Robinson is the tuner there and i got into contact with him about finishing up my install and tuning the car.
I borrowed my brothers truck and a trailer and i headed on my 7 hour trip from Virginia Beach, VA to Carlisle, PA
Derek cleaned up the install and proceeded to breaking in the engine and tuning it. Making 465hp 350tq at 16psi. amazing numbers for this little turbo.
A video of a pull on the dyno.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0I4k7dh0Bk
I drove the car home to put some miles on the fresh engine and changed the oil when i got home. From there though. It was a downhill slope.
Some of it was minor fix easy things but just discouraging. And sometimes parts werent available right away so there was downtime.
Not sure the approproate name for this. But it allows the engine to warm quicker. I guess its not ment for forced induction because its plastic and i blew a hole through the ****er.
No biggie easy fix 3/8NPT plug with some teflon tape and that was that.
Next the stud holding my turbo and manifold together snapped. It literally just fell off when i popped the hood. Must have been pore casting? another no biggie i called Full-Race and they sent me another stud set free of charge. I just didnt drive the car as i was told not being secured properly could warp things.
I then had a bolt snap on my thermostat so i was leaking coolant pretty fast. I don't have any pictures of this but it put my car down for a week or two as i needed a few parts to fix it.
My car would sometimes have a hard vibration under it. i thought it was my strut top hat at first.
So i took the strut assembly out and replaced it but the noise was still there. i crawled under the car to see my mid-pipe from Full-Race resting on the subframe. you can see an ident here
i posted this online and actually thought that it making contact with the subframe made this dent. Derek from IMW posted that he actually had to do this in order for the midpipe to fit. No Problem i called Full-Race, sent them the mid-pipe and come to find out it didn't fit their jig. So they sent me a brand new one free of charge. But my car again sat for about a month.
Following comes the snappage of my passenger side axle. Really odd because its a clean *** cut. It must have been on its last leg because i was driving and accelerating at a normal speed.
I quickly got a new one and driving again. i went to get an alignment because the car needed one. i think i may have put some new tie rod ends in and thats why.
On the way home...
It took a little while to get a new transmission in. The first one that i got was another stock k20a2 transmission. I put it in and could only shift into 1st and 2nd gear. It felt as in 3rd 4th 5th 6th and reverse were not even there. It was empty space when you tried to shift into the gear. No grinds. Bent shift forks were to blame. The guy i bought it from was cool though i shipped it back and got my money. Dodged that bullet. The next one i bought was another K20A2 transmission with a Wavetrac LSD. This one felt butter through every gear.
The car was on the road for a little while. I started noticing a louder ticking sound coming from the head. i head asked some people and a freind of mine with a similar build. K series injectors are known for there loud "ticking" sound so it at first sounded normal. One night i got into my started it up and it had gotten louder. A lot louder. i took it down the street and and the end of it at the stop sign the car shutoff. Deep down i knew this would have my car sitting for a long time. I called a friend and pushed it back to my house.
Here is the culprit:
I believe this is called a chain cog. It seats on the crank by the little peice that you see snapped off. The timing chain and oil pump chain go around this.
The reason this snapped off was because my crank pulley was loose. ridiculously loose. I thought torqueing the crank bolt to spec was apart of the engine build process.
I had a shop redo the timing with new chain, Hybrid Racing Dual Ratchet Tensioner, and HPT lower chain guide.
Everything was buttoned up and the car would not stay running for more than 5 seconds. Fired everytime and shutoff itself down within seconds. I took it from the shop because i knew it wasnt there fault, they even double checked to make sure the ring that the crank sensor reads from wasnt put on backwards. The shop did show me that the crank was damaged where the chain cog seated to it. Im guessing when it was loose it wiggled itself extra play room then got enough room where it hit each side and eventually snapped. The ticking i was hearing was im assuming the cog moving back and forth not keeping the timing perfectly timed.
I got a new engine harness thinking maybe a wire got cut. But that also did nothing.
I think that the chain cog now has too much play room on that crank and is sending back vibrations to the crank sensor and the car is shutting itself down to protect itself. When the car was together i could unplug a sensor and put it in limp mode and the car would idle, idle and idle some more. i drove it 3 miles home like this. My understand is limp doesnt use sensors to operate but more on memory.
But enough of the negative. It's time to get a new crank and rebuild.
I sourced a new Crank. Purchased a new Headgasket, ARP headstuds and took the engine up to Derek at IMW. As i trusted his work having dealt with him before.
The engine is still there. i actually will be going to pick it up in 2 weeks time.
During the time the car has been down i have sold and picked up a few different things. For starters i sold this
because i wanted something more than standard.
So i got into contact with a person all of you know and talk to. Mac at Speed Trapp Consulting. I spoke with him for a good couple of weeks about a turbo that suits my needs. The winner was his Reaper. That i got just before production ended on these for a year.
I am very excited to run this and post up results. But for know i have none!
I sold my entire Hub assembly to a freind of mine with an EM2. i had my sites on the ITR brembos swap for awhile i had findly found one with everything i needed to complete it and already powdercoated black like i wanted.
And to not lengthen this first post up anymore here is just a few other things ive done.
Thanks for looking and stay tuned. I will keep this thread updated
My name is Ryan. I wanted to make this thread to share my build, maybe give some knowledge, and to receive. I log into ClubRSX everyday and only lurk this forced induction section on occasion. I see that mainly this is B series territory. I myself started with a K series. So i figured i could share what i have to maybe catch some interest.
I'll start from the begining.
This thread is about a 2002 Arctic Blue Pearl RSX Type-S
I don't have any pictures of my car when i first purchased it in 2008, but it was in good shape. It had some HID's which i never like. Some yellow fog lights, Tein S-Tech lowering springs and a AEM cold air intake. At the time i knew nothing about cars, but now as i type this i'm glad it had little to no modifications.
I quickly joined ClubRSX to read and learn about my 1st car. It took me about a week to learn to drive a manual but i got the hang of it in no time flat.
my first couple purchases were ebay items. i bought a Ebay shorty header and test pipe for $50. Again knowing nothing about cars i ordered at random. Eventually put the header on, but the POS test pipe sits in my closet to this day. i Bought skunk2 rear LCA's and some Skunk2 Cam Gears.
The Cam Gears obviously served me no purpose and was a quick waste of $400.
About a year or so passed by and i was steadily online reading and learning about the K-series. i caught on fast and like a lot of car enthusiests looking to mod i wanted to turbocharge my car. So i saved $ and saved some more.
2010 Summer this was my first purchase towards boost.
A Full-Race turbo kit with:
Garrett T3/T4 57 Trim
Anodized Black Intercooler
TiAl Q BOV
TiAl 44mm WG
Black 2.5 inch piping
Basically the standard kit with anodizing option on the intercooler
For my birthday i got my stockies powder coated gloss black. As they needed some freshening up.
I soon started thinking that my engine needed some freshening to handle this kit. So i started making my engine build purchases. These were items that had all been used before in previous builds. Nothing special just piece of mind items.
I started by ordering some 9.8:1 Wiseco 86.5mm (.5mm over bore) pistons, ARP Head Studs, Manley Valves, K24 87mm Head Gasket, Innovative 75a engine mounts, a new OEM timing chain tensioner and Type-S oil pump, a Type-S oil pan with a 10an bung pre-welded, Competition Clutch Stage 4 sprung clutch, Hondata K-pro, K-Teller 3 inch Stainless Steel exhaust piping, Vibrant flat black 3 inch muffler. I FAILED to get a picture of my Manley Turbo Tuff Rods and Manley Dual Valve Springs, Fuel Injector Clinic 1100cc injectors, RBC Intake Manifold pre-cut to fit my K20 Head (the water housing is on the front of the K20 head unlike the K24), K-tuned Fuel Rail, 8an and 6an steel braided hose and 8an and 6an fittings, K-tuned 8an inline fuel filter and K-tuned FPR.
I brought the engine and parts to a local shop and had them assemble the engine with OEM bearings.
Clutch mounted
Fuel cage modified for return style fuel system. since the RSX is a returnless system stock.
During all of this i got into a nasty accident on the back of a 4wheeler which pushed my installing and tuning date back. Torn ligaments and 2 broken bones. Surgery was needed.
A metal plate and 6 screw later i started installing parts.
Over this long period of time i was looking for a tuner. There was a lot of happy customers that had went to Innovative Motorworks in Carlisle, PA. Derek Robinson is the tuner there and i got into contact with him about finishing up my install and tuning the car.
I borrowed my brothers truck and a trailer and i headed on my 7 hour trip from Virginia Beach, VA to Carlisle, PA
Derek cleaned up the install and proceeded to breaking in the engine and tuning it. Making 465hp 350tq at 16psi. amazing numbers for this little turbo.
A video of a pull on the dyno.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0I4k7dh0Bk
I drove the car home to put some miles on the fresh engine and changed the oil when i got home. From there though. It was a downhill slope.
Some of it was minor fix easy things but just discouraging. And sometimes parts werent available right away so there was downtime.
Not sure the approproate name for this. But it allows the engine to warm quicker. I guess its not ment for forced induction because its plastic and i blew a hole through the ****er.
No biggie easy fix 3/8NPT plug with some teflon tape and that was that.
Next the stud holding my turbo and manifold together snapped. It literally just fell off when i popped the hood. Must have been pore casting? another no biggie i called Full-Race and they sent me another stud set free of charge. I just didnt drive the car as i was told not being secured properly could warp things.
I then had a bolt snap on my thermostat so i was leaking coolant pretty fast. I don't have any pictures of this but it put my car down for a week or two as i needed a few parts to fix it.
My car would sometimes have a hard vibration under it. i thought it was my strut top hat at first.
So i took the strut assembly out and replaced it but the noise was still there. i crawled under the car to see my mid-pipe from Full-Race resting on the subframe. you can see an ident here
i posted this online and actually thought that it making contact with the subframe made this dent. Derek from IMW posted that he actually had to do this in order for the midpipe to fit. No Problem i called Full-Race, sent them the mid-pipe and come to find out it didn't fit their jig. So they sent me a brand new one free of charge. But my car again sat for about a month.
Following comes the snappage of my passenger side axle. Really odd because its a clean *** cut. It must have been on its last leg because i was driving and accelerating at a normal speed.
I quickly got a new one and driving again. i went to get an alignment because the car needed one. i think i may have put some new tie rod ends in and thats why.
On the way home...
It took a little while to get a new transmission in. The first one that i got was another stock k20a2 transmission. I put it in and could only shift into 1st and 2nd gear. It felt as in 3rd 4th 5th 6th and reverse were not even there. It was empty space when you tried to shift into the gear. No grinds. Bent shift forks were to blame. The guy i bought it from was cool though i shipped it back and got my money. Dodged that bullet. The next one i bought was another K20A2 transmission with a Wavetrac LSD. This one felt butter through every gear.
The car was on the road for a little while. I started noticing a louder ticking sound coming from the head. i head asked some people and a freind of mine with a similar build. K series injectors are known for there loud "ticking" sound so it at first sounded normal. One night i got into my started it up and it had gotten louder. A lot louder. i took it down the street and and the end of it at the stop sign the car shutoff. Deep down i knew this would have my car sitting for a long time. I called a friend and pushed it back to my house.
Here is the culprit:
I believe this is called a chain cog. It seats on the crank by the little peice that you see snapped off. The timing chain and oil pump chain go around this.
The reason this snapped off was because my crank pulley was loose. ridiculously loose. I thought torqueing the crank bolt to spec was apart of the engine build process.
I had a shop redo the timing with new chain, Hybrid Racing Dual Ratchet Tensioner, and HPT lower chain guide.
Everything was buttoned up and the car would not stay running for more than 5 seconds. Fired everytime and shutoff itself down within seconds. I took it from the shop because i knew it wasnt there fault, they even double checked to make sure the ring that the crank sensor reads from wasnt put on backwards. The shop did show me that the crank was damaged where the chain cog seated to it. Im guessing when it was loose it wiggled itself extra play room then got enough room where it hit each side and eventually snapped. The ticking i was hearing was im assuming the cog moving back and forth not keeping the timing perfectly timed.
I got a new engine harness thinking maybe a wire got cut. But that also did nothing.
I think that the chain cog now has too much play room on that crank and is sending back vibrations to the crank sensor and the car is shutting itself down to protect itself. When the car was together i could unplug a sensor and put it in limp mode and the car would idle, idle and idle some more. i drove it 3 miles home like this. My understand is limp doesnt use sensors to operate but more on memory.
But enough of the negative. It's time to get a new crank and rebuild.
I sourced a new Crank. Purchased a new Headgasket, ARP headstuds and took the engine up to Derek at IMW. As i trusted his work having dealt with him before.
The engine is still there. i actually will be going to pick it up in 2 weeks time.
During the time the car has been down i have sold and picked up a few different things. For starters i sold this
because i wanted something more than standard.
So i got into contact with a person all of you know and talk to. Mac at Speed Trapp Consulting. I spoke with him for a good couple of weeks about a turbo that suits my needs. The winner was his Reaper. That i got just before production ended on these for a year.
I am very excited to run this and post up results. But for know i have none!
I sold my entire Hub assembly to a freind of mine with an EM2. i had my sites on the ITR brembos swap for awhile i had findly found one with everything i needed to complete it and already powdercoated black like i wanted.
And to not lengthen this first post up anymore here is just a few other things ive done.
Thanks for looking and stay tuned. I will keep this thread updated
05-20-2012, 03:58 PM
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05-20-2012, 07:56 PM
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Re: K20A2. Full-Race. A Long Journey.
damn what a build story
im very glad you stuck it out, i wouldnt have given up either. reading your post gives me more of a drive to keep going after i get my car tuned with my turbo.
im very glad you stuck it out, i wouldnt have given up either. reading your post gives me more of a drive to keep going after i get my car tuned with my turbo.
05-20-2012, 10:25 PM
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05-21-2012, 01:51 AM
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Re: K20A2. Full-Race. A Long Journey.
thanks guys.
it has been a long run. just looking forward to having it back together now
more stuff is coming. all feedback welcome
it has been a long run. just looking forward to having it back together now
more stuff is coming. all feedback welcome
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05-21-2012, 05:56 AM
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Re: K20A2. Full-Race. A Long Journey.
I`m very inspired by your post! 
Keep it up!
I was referred to this post from a friend. I`m also building a similar build
Only with a K24A3, which is the US K24A2.
Full Race turbo and 750cc injectors.
Could i ask, did you do most of the engine work yourself and installed it yourself?
Keep it up!I was referred to this post from a friend. I`m also building a similar build
Only with a K24A3, which is the US K24A2.
Full Race turbo and 750cc injectors.
Could i ask, did you do most of the engine work yourself and installed it yourself?
05-21-2012, 11:57 AM
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Re: K20A2. Full-Race. A Long Journey.
I`m very inspired by your post! Keep it up!
I was referred to this post from a friend. I`m also building a similar build
Only with a K24A3, which is the US K24A2.
Full Race turbo and 750cc injectors.
Could i ask, did you do most of the engine work yourself and installed it yourself?
Keep it up!I was referred to this post from a friend. I`m also building a similar build
Only with a K24A3, which is the US K24A2.
Full Race turbo and 750cc injectors.
Could i ask, did you do most of the engine work yourself and installed it yourself?
let me know if you have anymore questions.
thank you
05-21-2012, 02:14 PM
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Re: K20A2. Full-Race. A Long Journey.
I would also like to keep this thread informed with parts that i have found as a must get and stay away from.
For now ill start with the fuel lines i started with. K-tuned.
I have heard this from several other people and is not just me.
The line seems to kink and twist when you are assembling into the fittings. causing a very bad restriction. It also "seized" into place after being on my car for a short while.
Now don't get me wrong. i like k-tuned parts a lot. I have many of their parts on my car. I was just very unhappy with their steel braided line. It wasn't the cheapest.
NOW. i also wanted to add something from K-Tuned that i really liked.
Their Billet shift arm. i myself did not like the feel of the plastic shift box and shift arm. It has a lot of flex. It feels like there is a lot of side to side play shifting into each gear. At times i would not get into gear because there was enough play. Almost like i couldn't find the gear. If you know what i'm saying. There are multiple items you can purchase to help with this sloppyness. The first one i purchased was the billet arm. And i love the feel. it also come with a new spring and pivot ball.
For now ill start with the fuel lines i started with. K-tuned.
I have heard this from several other people and is not just me.
The line seems to kink and twist when you are assembling into the fittings. causing a very bad restriction. It also "seized" into place after being on my car for a short while.
Now don't get me wrong. i like k-tuned parts a lot. I have many of their parts on my car. I was just very unhappy with their steel braided line. It wasn't the cheapest.
NOW. i also wanted to add something from K-Tuned that i really liked.
Their Billet shift arm. i myself did not like the feel of the plastic shift box and shift arm. It has a lot of flex. It feels like there is a lot of side to side play shifting into each gear. At times i would not get into gear because there was enough play. Almost like i couldn't find the gear. If you know what i'm saying. There are multiple items you can purchase to help with this sloppyness. The first one i purchased was the billet arm. And i love the feel. it also come with a new spring and pivot ball.
05-22-2012, 01:34 AM
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06-05-2012, 04:45 PM
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Re: K20A2. Full-Race. A Long Journey.
Got the engine back home from Innovative Motorworks over the weekend. started assembling some things and mocking up a bit. ran out of time tonight but heres what i got.
new recirc. hose and oil cooler hoses on the back along with a few new bolts.
and what do you guys think of the boost controller spot?
more tomorrow.
new recirc. hose and oil cooler hoses on the back along with a few new bolts.
and what do you guys think of the boost controller spot?
more tomorrow.
06-05-2012, 05:18 PM
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Re: K20A2. Full-Race. A Long Journey.
Looks good man. It sucks about the little things, I've been going through alot of the same **** lately. Just gotta shake it off. A little time and the motivation will come back.
I have the same turbo and I'm pretty happy with it. Flawless reliability and great power so far.
I have the same turbo and I'm pretty happy with it. Flawless reliability and great power so far.
06-05-2012, 06:14 PM
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Re: K20A2. Full-Race. A Long Journey.
I'm not sure why people get so ate up with the ethanol percentage, I have never noticed a difference in the tune from e70 to e85. There are also several 600-700hp dsm's in my area that have the same experience.
06-05-2012, 06:56 PM
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Re: K20A2. Full-Race. A Long Journey.
My bro's rsx snapped the passenger side axle clean in the same spot. It snaps there because of a groove cut into the axle right at the end of the boot. Id upgrade of I were you. Last one he snapped had 1000 miles on it with only 190whp. In the middle of installing his turbo setup too actually. Props for sticking with it man!
06-06-2012, 02:03 AM
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Re: K20A2. Full-Race. A Long Journey.
Looks good man. It sucks about the little things, I've been going through alot of the same **** lately. Just gotta shake it off. A little time and the motivation will come back.
I have the same turbo and I'm pretty happy with it. Flawless reliability and great power so far.
I have the same turbo and I'm pretty happy with it. Flawless reliability and great power so far.
My bro's rsx snapped the passenger side axle clean in the same spot. It snaps there because of a groove cut into the axle right at the end of the boot. Id upgrade of I were you. Last one he snapped had 1000 miles on it with only 190whp. In the middle of installing his turbo setup too actually. Props for sticking with it man!
06-07-2012, 02:58 PM
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Re: K20A2. Full-Race. A Long Journey.
On my previous build i had a "T" fitting off my oil pressure switch location and i wanted to run a oil pressure gauge this time around. So i needed something that had more ports. At first i was thinking a sandwich adapter. until i found this.
It uses a 1/8BPST into the block with 5 1/8NPT ports.
It uses a 1/8BPST into the block with 5 1/8NPT ports.
06-07-2012, 04:37 PM
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Re: K20A2. Full-Race. A Long Journey.
MTEC Industries makes a spring for the shifter mechanism inside the transmission that reduces "slop" in the shift feel. Since this part has came out i've heard "its the best $30 you can spend for your car". so i figured why not?
Out with the old. I can feel by pushing on the old vs new springs that the MTEC are stiffer.
A cool pic inside the transmission.
re-installed, RTV'd and re-torqured. Can't wait to feel it!
Out with the old. I can feel by pushing on the old vs new springs that the MTEC are stiffer.
A cool pic inside the transmission.
re-installed, RTV'd and re-torqured. Can't wait to feel it!
06-18-2012, 05:38 PM
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Re: K20A2. Full-Race. A Long Journey.
picked up a few odd and end peices for the turbo system.
small update. what do you guys think of the oil feed and return routing?
Feed...
Return...
And with the new turbo my downpipe sits extremely close to my manifold. i was also wondering if this is ok? without the wrap it would probably have an 1/8 inch gap.
small update. what do you guys think of the oil feed and return routing?
Feed...
Return...
And with the new turbo my downpipe sits extremely close to my manifold. i was also wondering if this is ok? without the wrap it would probably have an 1/8 inch gap.
