turbo97coupe

np goodluck with it

spoonInspired

well i gotta say, i did wire in that part. put it on the fuel rail. cleared the codes with an obd2 reader. and bam, good to go.. it is throw'n a vtec code now tho.... but no KS code..thanks for the help everyone


oh and hondamatics are gay. first i got a flashing light on D4 in the indicator. tranny shifted super hard.code reader said circuit A malfunction. couldn't figure it out, so i unhooked all the plugs to the tranny, hooked them back up and cleared the code. shifted fine after that and no blinking light. weird ****..

my project of putting a z6 into a 00' civic is done. not fun, learned alot tho

no knock sensor,fixed it with the P/T from radio shack
IM sensor miss match,solved that by running the Auto y8 mani
"doesn't leak water like some said it would"
0bd2 vs 0bd1 Dizzy issue,solved that by switching guts between the two

good to go now

nello a.

i cannot get this to work. i will read what it says on the packaging tom. is there more than one type of piezo buzzer?
i think it says something like"you must use a driver" or something.

i bought three and still cannot get it to work

Fabian

some info on knock sensor,is megasquirt stuff but can be aplied to honda ecu.
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/knock.htm

turbo97coupe

there was only one piezo transducer at radio shack when i got mine i used the same part number as the op

nello a.

i could not get this to work.
my part# says 273-073a
says reequires driver circuit. what is that? anyone?
up to 30Vp-p
9mA

could someone explain series wiring. pix dont work.
is that pos to pos and neg to neg in a string.(one after the other) not terminating at the same point

i realize this thread is really old. can someone chime in though

j-pac

Resurrecting this from the dead -

how much voltage should the knock sensor produce at IDLE and FULL THROTTLE?? car inspection from a local company told me i needed that before selling the car.

Thanks

hondafrk

Well, I'm also bringing the post back from the dead, but I got it to work also.
I just bought my civic a couple of weeks ago and the day after I bought it I was going over the car and I found this little speaker like thing zip tied to the fuel rail. I thought i was part of an alarm or something so I pulled it off. Well over the past couple of days I've been trying to diagnose a few codes and once I got 2 codes fixed, I pulled a Knock sensor code. I found out that my knock sensor was completely broken, the connector was broken clean off the sensor.

After finding this thread and reconnecting the little speaker think back up, it works like a charm!!!! I'm still going to get a new knock sensor, but I'm thrilled to find out that this little trick works!!!!

tak86123

I know this thread is so old but I just have to say THANK YOU TO OP! Basicly i bough a civic ex with a bad motor and my dads dumb mechanic put in a d16y7 with no vtec head. Hondas are really knew to me so I started reading for hours... I was getting the vtec solenoid error and the knock sensor. I put a new knock sensor and code goes away then i do the solenoid bypass and success, no codes. Then the knock sensor code comes back! I have no idea why but maybe i needed a vtec head... I dunno... but I did this mod and it worked! SO THANKS THIS SITE IS SWEET!

M1N1ME

I know this thread is old but I news help the knock sensor code keeps coming back. Does the piezo tranducer have to be in the engine bay?

Wabaki510

yes it does i have a check engine light right now because of that haha just got home from radioshack. im gonna try this tomorrow and hopefully it works

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yes. It only makes voltate when it vibrates. So putting it inside the car defeats the purpose of having it in the first place

Although I don't think eliminating the knock sensor is wise in the first place

Trafficlightguy

I know this is a old thread, but I have a cel light and knock sensor code.

Before I spend money on a sensor I figured I would invest 4 buck to make sure

I'll let you know on Saturday if it works

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Again I don't know why everyone tries to circumvent the knock sensor, to me they are a vital part of tuning and engine datalogging. I always try to tune with a minimal knock count for a given power level and fuel type... no more than 5 knock counts across the operational rpm range. so far so good, our 11.5:1 ls7 doesn't have more than 4 knock counts across the powerband on Sunoco oxygenated 100 octane.

it can be a little harder to due on a boosted car due to elevated cylinder pressures and the vast operational conditions boosted motors see but it is possible with careful tuning.

just my 2 cents.

it would be impossible to do without a knock sensor as not all detonation and pinging are audible to the human ear.

naveed1419

hi guys any one help me. i swap h23a doch vtec blue top i am getting knock problem when car gets its requried temp, after that when i start car it knocks, in cold engine i mean in morning it wont knock. I dont know what the problem is i have changed another knock sensor but same problem

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

The knock sensor doesn't cause knock.

if you can audibly hear the punting then you have bigger issues. either the motor is damaged, the base idle tune is way off, you're not giving the motor enough fuel or you have a fuel supply issue (bad pump, clogged filter, dirty/clogged injector, bad fpr, low fuel pressure) or you're running too much timing.

Unless you have a wideband to monitor air fuel ratios you don't really know what the motor is doing and you shouldn't keep tinkering with it. are you running a stock ecu or a chipped ecu or a standalone? if so post screenshots of your timing and fuel maps.

robertjayross

Thank you! I just passed emissions because I got my CEL off! I have an Acura Legend, not a civic, but its nice to know that this works on at least a few different vehicles.

Thanks Again, good job figuring this out.

PowerDraw

Sorry to revive an old thread but I cannot find that part on the RadioShack website?

Is this the part? Looks like the part number changed if it is. Found old site links referencing 273-073 but it keeps redirecting to this:

https://www.radioshack.com/products/...ant=5717351301

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

That's not a piezo transducer, that's a piezo buzzer. Their website also changes the number when it pulls that up - not the same part.


This is what you want.

PowerDraw

Thank you sir! I knew that wasn't the right part. I searched transducer on the RadioShack website and looks like it's long gone. Thanks for the link!

Do those need to be encased in anything, or just tape those discs rights the fuel rail?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure on that one. I'm also not sure how Radioshack's website still exists, unless it's run by someone else now - Radioshack filed bankruptcy like...two or three years ago.

Dandvk666

You got a pic of the piezo transducert mate?

jorge74

I Used two transducer it Works i put it on the fuel rail (drivers side) corner its just finding the right spot. Only neg. Is when i turn on AC i guess its the extra noise and vibration.

jonesx7

Current Radio Shack part # is 2730073 $2.49

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Thank you for the update. This will be closed for now.