How to pass emissions on a catless turbo honda
07-11-2005, 06:07 PM
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How to pass emissions on a catless turbo honda
Well I got back from emissions testing today and after sweating and being worried about it, I passed with FLYING COLORS. I will explain the process and how you can up your chances to pass your turboed catless honda. This is for OBD I and older cars only since 96 and newer they will check for ODBII codes. OBDII can do this, but you must be able to pass the codes check and you will have to revert to stock as far as injectors as concerned.
First off here is my setup. It really doesn't matter that much, but for those wondering:
95 OBDI B18b
t3/t04e 57trim
3" full exhaust with only a 24" resonator no cat no muffler
external dump tube (doesn't matter since they won't boost it)
Tuned with Uberdata EMS w/ wideband
<U><FONT SIZE="2">Idle test the car</FONT></U>
This could be the deciding factor wheather you pass or fail the emissions test. At all stations if you have "expensive" or "big" rims you will not be required to do the rolling test and only have to idle while they take readings. This means either borrow/rent/steal (ok don't steal) but do whatever you can do get some nice big rims maybe even some low profile tires to add to the fact that you won't be able to "fit" on the rollers. All I did was tell the guy at the station that I don't want to scratch my rims and he said "Ok, we'll just do the idle test"
<U><FONT SIZE="2">tune for 14.7 AFR</FONT></U>
Stoichiometric burning of gasoline is at 14.7:1. This means you will get the most complete burn at this ratio. If you have a wideband or are able to get a quick tune for idle get you AF's to that ratio for your entire vaccum part of the map. If you can you could just plug in your stock O2 sensor and run in closed loop so the car will aim for that reading at all times. Obviously you won't be able to boost, but that is the least of your worries.
<U><FONT SIZE="2">Run the lowest octane possible</FONT></U>
I know we want to run the highest octane possible in order to prevent possible detonation, but again we won't be boosting and only trying to pass emissions. I ran my car dry on 93 and filled up with less then a quarter tank of 87 octane (you'll see why 1/4 tank later). The lower octane burns faster and more complete then higher octane. So this does mean it will produce less emissions. Although, it won't be too significant it can be the difference of a couple points on the test.
<U><FONT SIZE="2"> Put in 1 quart of denatured alcohol</FONT></u>
I was able to find denaturated alcohol at homedepot in the paint thinner section in big blue quarts. I bought 2 for $10 and left the store. The alcohol burns very very clean, so we add about one quart for about 1/5 of tank left. If you fail and not by much go ahead and add more alcohol. The disadvantage is that the alcohol is corrosive to your fuel lines and anything it touches. It sucks the water out of anything so after you pass emissions run the car dry again and fill up with that good ol expensive octane. It won't damage the car if you leave it in for a couple days, but don't let it sit for weeks.
<U><FONT SIZE="2">Adjust timing</FONT></U>
I have Uberdata and was able to adjust my timing through the program. If you take out timing you will reduce NOx, but increase HC's. If you add timing you reduce HC's by providing a more complete burn, but increase NOx emissions. If you fail the first time and notice one is higher then the other then adjust accordingly and you will notice better results. I adjusted the timing by retarding it 2.5 degrees.
<U><FONT SIZE="2">Remove the PCV system</FONT></U>
All that is needed is to remove the line going from the PCV valve to the block. Let it dump to the atmosphere. We do this to prevent any blow by from entering the combustion chamber so we can eliminate hydrocarbons. Although not good for the environment the emissions people will not check this.
<U><FONT SIZE="2">Change you oil</FONT></U>
This is very minor, but again can help with a few points if you are close. With new oil you reduce contaminants. Simple.
<U><FONT SIZE="2">Other ways:</FONT></U>
Every state will be different on these rules and regulations so search on their websites or visit a testing station. The laws state that if you spend a certain amount in repairs to your vehicle you will become exempt forever to take emssisions for that vehicle. If you "know" a mechanic you need him to write you up a ticket in the amount or greater for the "job he did"....get it
. Another way is to qualify for race car status. Now, I talked to several people on the phone about this and it seems like there are no set restrications on mileage or anything and nothing happens to your insurance. The only qualifcation is them judging your car. You must take pictures of your car showing that it is a race car IE: the giant turbo, NOS, stickers, gutted interior etc etc. Send those in with the affidavid and wait for a response. There are other ways to route around emissions, but I suggest readinging up and finding what may suit you best.
<FONT SIZE="2"><U>Here were my results</U></FONT>
HC (hydrocarbons) - Standards: 220
Readings : 145
CO (carbon monoxide) - Standards: 1.2
Readings : .2
C02 (carbon dioxide) - Standards: n/a on idle test
Readings : 13.0 (still very low)
Try to do as many of these recommendations as possible. If you skip or cant do a few you will still probably pass, but don't skip too many as they only help your score. The biggest part is probably to run the idle test and not the loaded test. Although I believe I would have passed the load test because of these extremely low numbers it's still a lot easier to pass at idle. I'd like this thread to be about other ideas that may work and I'll be able to add then to this first post for anyone to view.
For all those in CALI sorry, but as you know any modification you do without a carb legal sticker is not going to pass. Plus the emissions are stricter I believe.
UPDATE: Like I said I would, I went and did a voluntary test on the rollers this time. I passed again
. So for all those no doubting, we now have proof through testing 
. It's been done before, but I just had to make sure...lol
Modified by adseguy at 3:05 PM 7/18/2005
First off here is my setup. It really doesn't matter that much, but for those wondering:
95 OBDI B18b
t3/t04e 57trim
3" full exhaust with only a 24" resonator no cat no muffler
external dump tube (doesn't matter since they won't boost it)
Tuned with Uberdata EMS w/ wideband
<U><FONT SIZE="2">Idle test the car</FONT></U>
This could be the deciding factor wheather you pass or fail the emissions test. At all stations if you have "expensive" or "big" rims you will not be required to do the rolling test and only have to idle while they take readings. This means either borrow/rent/steal (ok don't steal) but do whatever you can do get some nice big rims maybe even some low profile tires to add to the fact that you won't be able to "fit" on the rollers. All I did was tell the guy at the station that I don't want to scratch my rims and he said "Ok, we'll just do the idle test"
<U><FONT SIZE="2">tune for 14.7 AFR</FONT></U>
Stoichiometric burning of gasoline is at 14.7:1. This means you will get the most complete burn at this ratio. If you have a wideband or are able to get a quick tune for idle get you AF's to that ratio for your entire vaccum part of the map. If you can you could just plug in your stock O2 sensor and run in closed loop so the car will aim for that reading at all times. Obviously you won't be able to boost, but that is the least of your worries.
<U><FONT SIZE="2">Run the lowest octane possible</FONT></U>
I know we want to run the highest octane possible in order to prevent possible detonation, but again we won't be boosting and only trying to pass emissions. I ran my car dry on 93 and filled up with less then a quarter tank of 87 octane (you'll see why 1/4 tank later). The lower octane burns faster and more complete then higher octane. So this does mean it will produce less emissions. Although, it won't be too significant it can be the difference of a couple points on the test.
<U><FONT SIZE="2"> Put in 1 quart of denatured alcohol</FONT></u>
I was able to find denaturated alcohol at homedepot in the paint thinner section in big blue quarts. I bought 2 for $10 and left the store. The alcohol burns very very clean, so we add about one quart for about 1/5 of tank left. If you fail and not by much go ahead and add more alcohol. The disadvantage is that the alcohol is corrosive to your fuel lines and anything it touches. It sucks the water out of anything so after you pass emissions run the car dry again and fill up with that good ol expensive octane. It won't damage the car if you leave it in for a couple days, but don't let it sit for weeks.
<U><FONT SIZE="2">Adjust timing</FONT></U>
I have Uberdata and was able to adjust my timing through the program. If you take out timing you will reduce NOx, but increase HC's. If you add timing you reduce HC's by providing a more complete burn, but increase NOx emissions. If you fail the first time and notice one is higher then the other then adjust accordingly and you will notice better results. I adjusted the timing by retarding it 2.5 degrees.
<U><FONT SIZE="2">Remove the PCV system</FONT></U>
All that is needed is to remove the line going from the PCV valve to the block. Let it dump to the atmosphere. We do this to prevent any blow by from entering the combustion chamber so we can eliminate hydrocarbons. Although not good for the environment the emissions people will not check this.
<U><FONT SIZE="2">Change you oil</FONT></U>
This is very minor, but again can help with a few points if you are close. With new oil you reduce contaminants. Simple.
<U><FONT SIZE="2">Other ways:</FONT></U>
Every state will be different on these rules and regulations so search on their websites or visit a testing station. The laws state that if you spend a certain amount in repairs to your vehicle you will become exempt forever to take emssisions for that vehicle. If you "know" a mechanic you need him to write you up a ticket in the amount or greater for the "job he did"....get it
. Another way is to qualify for race car status. Now, I talked to several people on the phone about this and it seems like there are no set restrications on mileage or anything and nothing happens to your insurance. The only qualifcation is them judging your car. You must take pictures of your car showing that it is a race car IE: the giant turbo, NOS, stickers, gutted interior etc etc. Send those in with the affidavid and wait for a response. There are other ways to route around emissions, but I suggest readinging up and finding what may suit you best.<FONT SIZE="2"><U>Here were my results</U></FONT>
HC (hydrocarbons) - Standards: 220
Readings : 145
CO (carbon monoxide) - Standards: 1.2
Readings : .2
C02 (carbon dioxide) - Standards: n/a on idle test
Readings : 13.0 (still very low)
Try to do as many of these recommendations as possible. If you skip or cant do a few you will still probably pass, but don't skip too many as they only help your score. The biggest part is probably to run the idle test and not the loaded test. Although I believe I would have passed the load test because of these extremely low numbers it's still a lot easier to pass at idle. I'd like this thread to be about other ideas that may work and I'll be able to add then to this first post for anyone to view.
For all those in CALI sorry, but as you know any modification you do without a carb legal sticker is not going to pass. Plus the emissions are stricter I believe.
UPDATE: Like I said I would, I went and did a voluntary test on the rollers this time. I passed again
. So for all those no doubting, we now have proof through testing . It's been done before, but I just had to make sure...lolModified by adseguy at 3:05 PM 7/18/2005
07-11-2005, 06:55 PM
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Re: (PK SPEED)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PK SPEED »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Ill stick to using a buddys address elsewhare that dosent require emmissions.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I keep my cars reg. in NY where obd1 is exempt
I keep my cars reg. in NY where obd1 is exempt
07-11-2005, 07:34 PM
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Re: How to pass emissions on a catless turbo honda (adseguy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
<U><FONT SIZE="2">Take out timing</FONT></U>
I have Uberdata and was able to adjust my timing through the program. I just took out 2.5 degrees in the idle region. If you can't adjust it this way you may do it with a timing light and adjusting the dizzy. The purpose of this is to start the combustion even earlier so the burn stays longer and is more complete. By doing this we lose power, but again we are only here to pass emissions.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
"Taking out" timing means starting the burn *later*. This increases HC emissions and decreases NOx emissions. Adding timing starts the burn earlier, causes more complete combusion, but also results in higher oxides of nitrogen readings. 2.5 degrees is not going to have a dramatic effect, but it could help if you fail on NOx. (They test for that here in CA, where your post doesn't really help hehehe).
<U><FONT SIZE="2">Take out timing</FONT></U>
I have Uberdata and was able to adjust my timing through the program. I just took out 2.5 degrees in the idle region. If you can't adjust it this way you may do it with a timing light and adjusting the dizzy. The purpose of this is to start the combustion even earlier so the burn stays longer and is more complete. By doing this we lose power, but again we are only here to pass emissions.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
"Taking out" timing means starting the burn *later*. This increases HC emissions and decreases NOx emissions. Adding timing starts the burn earlier, causes more complete combusion, but also results in higher oxides of nitrogen readings. 2.5 degrees is not going to have a dramatic effect, but it could help if you fail on NOx. (They test for that here in CA, where your post doesn't really help hehehe).
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07-12-2005, 06:34 AM
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Re: How to pass emissions on a catless turbo honda (dustin)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dustin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
"Taking out" timing means starting the burn *later*. This increases HC emissions and decreases NOx emissions. Adding timing starts the burn earlier, causes more complete combusion, but also results in higher oxides of nitrogen readings. 2.5 degrees is not going to have a dramatic effect, but it could help if you fail on NOx. (They test for that here in CA, where your post doesn't really help hehehe).</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know what I was thinking when I posted that part
. Long day at work I guess 
. I changed it now so it would state the correct way to adjust timing.
Anyone else have ideas I meant this to be the legal way to pass the test without registering you car somewhere else so as to keep insurance in the same spot.
"Taking out" timing means starting the burn *later*. This increases HC emissions and decreases NOx emissions. Adding timing starts the burn earlier, causes more complete combusion, but also results in higher oxides of nitrogen readings. 2.5 degrees is not going to have a dramatic effect, but it could help if you fail on NOx. (They test for that here in CA, where your post doesn't really help hehehe).</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know what I was thinking when I posted that part
. Long day at work I guess . I changed it now so it would state the correct way to adjust timing.Anyone else have ideas I meant this to be the legal way to pass the test without registering you car somewhere else so as to keep insurance in the same spot.
07-12-2005, 06:47 AM
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Re: How to pass emissions on a catless turbo honda (adseguy)
Nice write up!
I might have to try some of those tips. The only thing that sucks here in Oregon is, if you are too low for the rollers you have to drive to a station that has lower rollers, and for me, that's a ways away.
They won't pass you unless you do a dyno test. I wish we had the idle check thing because I hate driving 45 minutes to test my car when there is a test station right down the street.
I am going to have to do this before September of this year so I will be finding out pretty soon if these tips work for me!
I might have to try some of those tips. The only thing that sucks here in Oregon is, if you are too low for the rollers you have to drive to a station that has lower rollers, and for me, that's a ways away.
They won't pass you unless you do a dyno test. I wish we had the idle check thing because I hate driving 45 minutes to test my car when there is a test station right down the street.
I am going to have to do this before September of this year so I will be finding out pretty soon if these tips work for me!
07-12-2005, 07:17 AM
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Re: How to pass emissions on a catless turbo honda (EJ1 wilcox)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice write up!
I might have to try some of those tips. The only thing that sucks here in Oregon is, if you are too low for the rollers you have to drive to a station that has lower rollers, and for me, that's a ways away.
They won't pass you unless you do a dyno test. I wish we had the idle check thing because I hate driving 45 minutes to test my car when there is a test station right down the street.
I am going to have to do this before September of this year so I will be finding out pretty soon if these tips work for me! </TD></TR></TABLE>
that sucks! Make sure you talk to someone and say that you have really expensive rims and don't want to damage them.
I am going back today and I'm going to take a $20 voluntary test in the name of Honda-tech . I just want to prove that I can pass the loaded test and that done correctly a catless turbo will easily pass emissions
I might have to try some of those tips. The only thing that sucks here in Oregon is, if you are too low for the rollers you have to drive to a station that has lower rollers, and for me, that's a ways away.
They won't pass you unless you do a dyno test. I wish we had the idle check thing because I hate driving 45 minutes to test my car when there is a test station right down the street.
I am going to have to do this before September of this year so I will be finding out pretty soon if these tips work for me! </TD></TR></TABLE>
that sucks! Make sure you talk to someone and say that you have really expensive rims and don't want to damage them.
I am going back today and I'm going to take a $20 voluntary test in the name of Honda-tech
. I just want to prove that I can pass the loaded test and that done correctly a catless turbo will easily pass emissions
07-18-2005, 12:07 PM
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Re: How to pass emissions on a catless turbo honda (adseguy)
UPDATE: Like I said I would, I went and did a voluntary test on the rollers this time. I passed again . So for all those no doubting, we now have proof through testing . It's been done before, but I just had to make sure...lol
Oh yeah and I have 303whp on stock block, but they weren't testing that
Oh yeah and I have 303whp on stock block, but they weren't testing that
07-18-2005, 12:35 PM
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Re: How to pass emissions on a catless turbo honda (adseguy)
there is alot **** u guys got to do to get ur car smog,i lived in NM no inspections and no smogs,just vin number verification when u get it registered.
07-18-2005, 12:43 PM
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awesome work man....
having just moved from michigan (no emmissions) to chicago (same emmissions as you) this makes me happy. i will most likely register my car here whenever it lapses... (may of next year i believe).
excellent work, and a very valuable write up. look forward to talking to you about it this weekend at the meet! -adam
having just moved from michigan (no emmissions) to chicago (same emmissions as you) this makes me happy. i will most likely register my car here whenever it lapses... (may of next year i believe).
excellent work, and a very valuable write up. look forward to talking to you about it this weekend at the meet! -adam
07-25-2005, 09:21 PM
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nice write up Adrian. I was just gonna slap two cats on there and disconnect a coupler. I figure there is no way I could fail. Of course I'd change my oil for kicks heck... toss in a bottle of alcohol for fun.
07-26-2005, 06:13 AM
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Re: (AzntaggeR)
in nc we have to have all of the pcv system or any hoses for that sake connected. I'm always close to failing the NOx, 217 max is 220. But, we still have to have a cat even after next year when they start the odb1 exemption.
07-26-2005, 10:32 AM
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Sweet...this is exactly what I needed to know.
I have tried 4 times to pass my car and it would just keep failing HCs. Found out that I need to rebuild my block...but I will definetly try this out when I go next.
I have tried 4 times to pass my car and it would just keep failing HCs. Found out that I need to rebuild my block...but I will definetly try this out when I go next.
03-25-2008, 10:00 PM
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Re: How to pass emissions on a catless turbo honda (adseguy)
they do make stuff u put in ur fuel that will make u pass. Ive seen it in grass roots mototsports mag.... good thing i dont haft 2 worry about emissions here
03-25-2008, 11:16 PM
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California:
I used a D15B8 with a B7 head. P06 BIN
Passed visual, no biggie. Passed the roller test barely under the wire (stock ECU)
Took my CAT off for the first time to put a test-pipe on, and what would you know... it's already empty... hrm..
Well, if your not passing it's for a reason... sometimes a little bit of the right thing (like the alcohol) will do the trick if you aren't passing... but I passed the california test-only with a chipped ECU on a basemap.... but all sensors disabled... I was in disbelief, cause I knew it was running lean.
I used a D15B8 with a B7 head. P06 BIN
Passed visual, no biggie. Passed the roller test barely under the wire (stock ECU)
Took my CAT off for the first time to put a test-pipe on, and what would you know... it's already empty... hrm..
Well, if your not passing it's for a reason... sometimes a little bit of the right thing (like the alcohol) will do the trick if you aren't passing... but I passed the california test-only with a chipped ECU on a basemap.... but all sensors disabled... I was in disbelief, cause I knew it was running lean.