Help with S300 boost controller components install. (Got a pic)
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Help with S300 boost controller components install. (Got a pic)
we reciently installed the boost control components into my S300. we faced the diods and parts the same direction as the factory like parts so everything was uniform. the controller section is not working and the pic provided by Hondata sucks. it doesn't give you enough details to see the correct direction the parts should be installed in.
Does someone have a detailed photo showing close ups of the parts installed so we can determin if we have something installed incorrectly before we start speinding a couple of hundred for Hondata to diagnosis and repair the ecu? (if it needs it)
Thanks a bunch for any help.
mike
Does someone have a detailed photo showing close ups of the parts installed so we can determin if we have something installed incorrectly before we start speinding a couple of hundred for Hondata to diagnosis and repair the ecu? (if it needs it)
Thanks a bunch for any help.
mike
#2
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Re: Help with S300 boost controller components install. (oscarmayer)
don't know if this is what you want, but it has pics and nice details...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1348457
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1348457
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Re: Help with S300 boost controller components install. (oscarmayer)
I agree the pics provided suck and i did install the components facing the same way as the stock components on the ecu.
So far its working
So far its working
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Re: Help with S300 boost controller components install. (oscarmayer)
All transistors have writing on them. Face the writing towards the side of the ecu with a sticker on it stating the part number.
Concerning the diode, the stripe side faces the ecu plugs.
The resistors are not directional.
That is really all you need to know.
Concerning the diode, the stripe side faces the ecu plugs.
The resistors are not directional.
That is really all you need to know.
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Re: Help with S300 boost controller components install. (mtber)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All transistors have writing on them. Face the writing towards the side of the ecu with a sticker on it stating the part number.
Concerning the diode, the stripe side faces the ecu plugs.
The resistors are not directional.
That is really all you need to know.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah i did that on my s300 and my boost option doesnt work. I even removed everything and reinstalled thinking possibly a dry socket. I also had used stock wiring and connector plugs because i have a GSR with an LS motor in it to keep it neat and thought maybe that was the issue so i hard wired the sol. to the ecu and still nothing. even switch the polarity on the sol wiring even though that shouldnt matter and still its dead. i called hondata and they basically in a nice way said **** off. so it was back to MBC for me 80 bucks what a waste
Concerning the diode, the stripe side faces the ecu plugs.
The resistors are not directional.
That is really all you need to know.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah i did that on my s300 and my boost option doesnt work. I even removed everything and reinstalled thinking possibly a dry socket. I also had used stock wiring and connector plugs because i have a GSR with an LS motor in it to keep it neat and thought maybe that was the issue so i hard wired the sol. to the ecu and still nothing. even switch the polarity on the sol wiring even though that shouldnt matter and still its dead. i called hondata and they basically in a nice way said **** off. so it was back to MBC for me 80 bucks what a waste
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#8
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Re: Help with S300 boost controller components install. (Turbo-LS)
Every one i've ever done has worked fine. Odds are you messed up on the install somewhere.
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Re: Help with S300 boost controller components install. (tony1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Every one i've ever done has worked fine. Odds are you messed up on the install somewhere. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i was thinking that also but ive never had a problem with chipping/socketing ecu's and ive dont PLENTY of them. its no different from socketing an ecu . desoldering the joints, installing the compnents and soldering them in place.
yeah i was thinking that also but ive never had a problem with chipping/socketing ecu's and ive dont PLENTY of them. its no different from socketing an ecu . desoldering the joints, installing the compnents and soldering them in place.
#10
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Re: Help with S300 boost controller components install. (Turbo-LS)
But that's not to say that you can't make a mistake. Possibly the wiring on the solenoid, possibly a bad solenoid, etc.
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Re: Help with S300 boost controller components install. (tony1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But that's not to say that you can't make a mistake. Possibly the wiring on the solenoid, possibly a bad solenoid, etc. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly but that is why i ruled that out by removing and reinstalling. im bankin on a defective sol. i wired sol. every combination possible. ive been wiring cars for 14 years so ive kinda got the hang of trouble shooting
Exactly but that is why i ruled that out by removing and reinstalling. im bankin on a defective sol. i wired sol. every combination possible. ive been wiring cars for 14 years so ive kinda got the hang of trouble shooting
#12
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Re: Help with S300 boost controller components install. (Turbo-LS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-LS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
im bankin on a defective sol. i wired sol. every combination possible. </TD></TR></TABLE>
There's only 2 wires and their polarity does not matter.
Could also be a bad tracer on the ecu board or something, who knows. It's about 99% not Hondata's fault though any way you look at it, right?
im bankin on a defective sol. i wired sol. every combination possible. </TD></TR></TABLE>
There's only 2 wires and their polarity does not matter.
Could also be a bad tracer on the ecu board or something, who knows. It's about 99% not Hondata's fault though any way you look at it, right?
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Re: (oscarmayer)
I need a little bit of help to make sure the components were installed correctly and that I have the software set up correctly....so here's how I installed and set up the one for the race car's ECU.
We used an AEM boost solenoid. The boost solenoid is a Mac valve product. It's a 3-way, normally closed valve. It's normally closed because the intended flow direction is from port 1 to port 2 and when the solenoid is de-energized, ports 1 and 2 are not connected and port 2 gets vented to atmosphere. To me, that's normally closed.
See .pdf file of valve type:
http://www.mdnworldwide.com/ne...5.pdf
Pneumatics Routing:
Port 1 -> Boost reference (from intake manifold, charge piping, turbo, etc.)
Port 2 -> Output to wastegate top port (above the diaphragm, opposite to the valve face)
Port 3 -> Open to atmosphere with the provided filter installed.
Electrical wiring:
Polarity at the solenoid doesn't matter.
Wire 1 - pinned to A11 (switched GND)
Wire 2 - switched 12VDC+ with 10A inline fuse
Other background info as needed:
http://www.hondata.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5429
It's on a P06 ECU converted to a VTEC ECU that's supposed to have the IAB circuitry, but it doesn't work. Not my fault.
R70, R71, D14, Q29 installed.
Q20 installed.
Settings in SManager: I've tried up to 50% and it still won't hit anything higher than 12psi (waste gate spring is 11psi).
Troubleshooting steps I have to do tomorrow:
1.) Wire the solenoid directly to the battery to see if it'll click.
2.) See if polarity matters on the AEM solenoid by wiring it to the battery both ways.
3.) Force the ECU to turn on the circuit by feeding the MAP sensor enough pressure to surpass the activation threshold and measure the voltage across the solenoid wires.
We used an AEM boost solenoid. The boost solenoid is a Mac valve product. It's a 3-way, normally closed valve. It's normally closed because the intended flow direction is from port 1 to port 2 and when the solenoid is de-energized, ports 1 and 2 are not connected and port 2 gets vented to atmosphere. To me, that's normally closed.
See .pdf file of valve type:
http://www.mdnworldwide.com/ne...5.pdf
Pneumatics Routing:
Port 1 -> Boost reference (from intake manifold, charge piping, turbo, etc.)
Port 2 -> Output to wastegate top port (above the diaphragm, opposite to the valve face)
Port 3 -> Open to atmosphere with the provided filter installed.
Electrical wiring:
Polarity at the solenoid doesn't matter.
Wire 1 - pinned to A11 (switched GND)
Wire 2 - switched 12VDC+ with 10A inline fuse
Other background info as needed:
http://www.hondata.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5429
It's on a P06 ECU converted to a VTEC ECU that's supposed to have the IAB circuitry, but it doesn't work. Not my fault.
R70, R71, D14, Q29 installed.
Q20 installed.
Settings in SManager: I've tried up to 50% and it still won't hit anything higher than 12psi (waste gate spring is 11psi).
Troubleshooting steps I have to do tomorrow:
1.) Wire the solenoid directly to the battery to see if it'll click.
2.) See if polarity matters on the AEM solenoid by wiring it to the battery both ways.
3.) Force the ECU to turn on the circuit by feeding the MAP sensor enough pressure to surpass the activation threshold and measure the voltage across the solenoid wires.
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Re: (IN VTEC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Troubleshooting steps I have to do tomorrow:
1.) Wire the solenoid directly to the battery to see if it'll click.
2.) See if polarity matters on the AEM solenoid by wiring it to the battery both ways.
3.) Force the ECU to turn on the circuit by feeding the MAP sensor enough pressure to surpass the activation threshold and measure the voltage across the solenoid wires.</TD></TR></TABLE>
let me save you the trouble...the aem boost control solenoid can be wired either way. Polarity is not important. says it on the piece of paper that comes with it...and tony just said it too.
Troubleshooting steps I have to do tomorrow:
1.) Wire the solenoid directly to the battery to see if it'll click.
2.) See if polarity matters on the AEM solenoid by wiring it to the battery both ways.
3.) Force the ECU to turn on the circuit by feeding the MAP sensor enough pressure to surpass the activation threshold and measure the voltage across the solenoid wires.</TD></TR></TABLE>
let me save you the trouble...the aem boost control solenoid can be wired either way. Polarity is not important. says it on the piece of paper that comes with it...and tony just said it too.
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Re: (IN VTEC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
R70, R71, D14, Q29 installed.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Q29 and Q21 (right behind Q29) both look like they got a little hot. Q21 also appears to have melted plastic. I'd guess these components are blown.
R70, R71, D14, Q29 installed.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Q29 and Q21 (right behind Q29) both look like they got a little hot. Q21 also appears to have melted plastic. I'd guess these components are blown.
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