Surfjunkie44

Before I get flamed, I have spent the larger portion of the past six hours cruising Honda-Tech as well as many other forums, but I am not finding definitive answers - only pictures. I am sorry if I am inept and simply missed the master forum for this conversation but I am at a loss, and in need of ordering something soon. I decided the Forced Induction forum would be the best place to start as many here were forced (no pun intended) to use half radiators to accommodate their turbo and respective manifold.

My set up is an I/H/E modified D16A6 (stock) in a 1991 CRX Si. I purchased the Fluidyne CRX half radiator ("NOT" the 1992-2000 half radiator). According to Gary, the owner of Fluidyne, it is a drop-in fit with the factory crossmember. I beg to differ, but that is beside the point. He and I will be having a conversation regarding such at a later point as he had reassured me it was a drop-in fit with no cutting required. As stated in the title, I am not interested in a "ghetto lean".

After much research, I'm between the Full-Race Traction Bar System and the Z10 Traction Bar system. I am not convinced that further modification will not be required to use the Fluidyne half radiator with the Full Race System - in two forums, it was implicitly implied that further modification would indeed be required. However, I can find no information in regard to the Z10 Traction Bar System in conjunction with the Fluidyne half radiator. Can anyone shed some light as to what system would require the least modification to use the new Fluidyne half radiator? Furthermore, does anyone have compliments/complaints regarding the radius arms, attaching points, or difficulty of alignment post installation for either system? Thanks.

rev-speed

ebay traction bar+ebay half rad and relocateing the lower radiator mounts to traction bar.......best and cheapest way to get the stock look

Surfjunkie44

Price is not my concern Rev-Speed, but rather quality construction. I have already purchased the Fluidyne half radiator. An E-Bay low-quality material and low-quality workmanship product is NOT a wise investment, especially when concerning a product that is a subframe component holding the suspension and front end together. You couldn't pay me to put such an item in my car. Thanks for the reply though.

Surfjunkie44

No one has ANY input regarding the Z10 vs. the Full-Race Traction Systems or their respective radiator fitment?

I spoke with Rob at Z10 this morning - a polite guy but a bit preoccupied with Nascar; apparently imports no longer warrant his company's full attention. When I questioned him about the radiator, he didn't recall any fitment issues, but could not confirm. I also questioned why his website lacked pictures of $500 products... "Nascar" in not so many words. Capitalism - they go where the money is...

So, again, any information would be quite useful at this point - particularly first-hand experience. Thanks.

rev-speed

i have a full race one and fluidyne half radiator in my ef and i still had to relocated my lower rad mounts
a friend has a inovative one that fits good but the traction bar sits too low
from experience it either is going to sit too low or your going to have to relocate the tabs

and by the way we run 10s with the ebay traction bar and ebay radiator

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3v9aC...layer_embedded

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpEue...layer_embedded

Surfjunkie44

I spoke with a friend of mine who has a TIG welder, so that should not be a problem if it comes down to relocating lower radiator mounts. However, I still disagree with you in regard to the structural integrity of the E-Bay crossmember. While you may feel comfortable straight line racing with that product, I don't feel confident auto-crossing with such. If those welds crack, it will be an expensive mistake and a risk that I personally am not willing to wager. But again, thank you for your response.

By the way, impressive times with your build - nice work.

guy_from_nerk

Full Race gets ya, they make their cross member to work with a PWR radiator designed specifically to fit their traction bar in an EF. I have had both innovative and full race traction bars in an EF. Like Rev said, you will have little ground clearance with the Innovative setup, you will have an extra 300 buying the correct radiator by using the full race one.

I didn't "ghetto lean" mine, instead I welded a tab onto the frame and turned the radiator to sit off set. However I did have to cut some of the webbing out of the hood's frame in order for the radiator cap to clear.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Well-put. Assertive, yet respectful. Don't know who surf junky is, but I like the cut of his jib ;-)

Tony the Tiger

Well spoken... There are rod ends that cost $5 each, and there are ones that cost $70 each, but they "look" the same.

I trust my FullRace traction bar... I've seen other ones crack, and even one break and it broke at the joint where it meets the bar.. It sent the broken bar poking into the pavement and made a huge mess. It was during 2nd gear tire chirp, and let's say the guy almost lost the car too.

Surfjunkie44

Guy from Nerk:

I am beginning to realize all of this a little late in the process, but c'est la vie. I spoke with Aaron from Full-Race this afternoon and the PWR radiator is nearly 2" shorter than the Fluidyne. (*Cue conundrum of curse words and sarcastic alliterations*) If I am forced to weld either either way, I think the Z10 product is higher quality construction considering the dual tubular crossmembers as compared to the single crossmember found in most other applications. Perhaps I am over analyzing the necessity of such a degree of structural rigidity, but it wouldn't be the first time - I am a "better safe than sorry" kind of guy. Thanks for the pictures in your post.

The Shodan:

I will always attempt to be respectful of all input offered by anyone that isn't charging by the hour. But, I will always bring my caliber of skepticism to those same suggestions until I have satisfied my fears or qualms regarding such. If I knew everything, well, I wouldn't be posting. Thanks for complimenting my jib.

redflaredcrx90

i have a 90 crxsi im running the innovative bar with no issues and a half rad for a 92-95 civic no lean and my hood closes no mods

96 GSR-T

I have direct experience with both the Z10 and FR bars, they are both constructed well and will not break on you.... my friends FR bars kept the front end of his eg from falling to pieces after he went wheels up at 100mph and took out a few tree's, not sure how much more proof you need than that

Surfjunkie44

I am not particularly impressed by the Innovative Mounts crossmember, mounting points, ground clearance, or radius arms. I have read several mixed reviews and read about a few cracking/breaking; such information leads me to be wary of a product. I have also already purchased the Fluidyne radiator, thus I must work with what I have available. Thank you for your input.

Surfjunkie44

I read a post about some kid who crashed his CRX and died in the process - a green one. He was rather well known as many commented regarding the pics of his car. The main topic spiraled the integrity of the Full-Race Traction System since his radius arms survived the crash and are now being used on a different CRX. I will admit it was impressive after seeing photos of the wheels nearly compacted to the firewall. I'm toying with pricing currently on both items with different sellers; yes, eventually (and unfortunately, it comes down to the bottom dollar. Thank you for everyone's input.

siblues

iTrader: (1)

I am running a full race traction bar setup and fluidyne half rad in my EM1 and the lower mounts for the rad do not work with the setup.I ordered the K tuned traction bar rad mounts they offer but they didnt work well either.I just welded two small mounts on the traction bar and trimmed the lower posts on the rad a bit shorter to make up for the traction bar being in the way.I know they are different chassis but from what I can tell they all need a bit of modification.

Surfjunkie44

Now that is the kind of information I was looking to read - definitive. Thank you SiBlues for the information AND the profile photo. ; )

Surfjunkie44

I went ahead and purchased the Full-Race - hello TIG welder. Again, thanks for all the input.

siblues

iTrader: (1)

No prob man I try to help when I can and I enjoy some of the members on here that do the same.Good luck on the install and let me know how it goes.

guy_from_nerk

Hopefully your full race bar doesn't hit the crank pulley like mine did...

siblues

iTrader: (1)

What chassis and motor is that if you dont mind me asking?

rat city rex

Dude don't forget to look into explicit speeds traction bars. They are baller!

http://www.explicitspeedperformance.net/

Surfjunkie44

I have a 1991 CRX Si that currently has the stock D16A6. By this summer, it will have a JDM B18C (Type-R spec).

Surfjunkie44

Do you have a B20 engine? I have heard that is a typical issue with that particular engine application in the EF, but I forgot which pulley was recommended to correct the situation. Underdriving the crank pulley would be what I recommend to correct your issue.

siblues

iTrader: (1)

Sorry man I was asking him for the same reason you just stated lol.I also must say that all of full races products get a thumb up from me.I have yet to hear bad reviews about them and they seem to be one of the only companies that put any R&D into their products.

Garage 808 Hatch

The radius bars are supposed to go to the fork bolts. And then it would clear