MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

I think that would be a good idea
plug in the hondata and you can then use it to Diagnosis tool
and start to fix the problems

GOOCH-JDM-ITR

I had to take off the T/B to set the TPS. It was at .765v (idle) and 4.87v (WOT).
After some adjusting I managed to get it to .54v (idle) and 4.82v WOT)

While doing this I noticed the T/B gasket had a slight fold/tear:



This was the cause of the smoking, I guess some coolant was leaking in and burning off.
1 problem solved. Still having the idle issues. At this point I think it could be a bad 02 sensor or maybe my IACV isn't working. (I've cleaned and checked this multiple times)
I also did a spray test with some engine starter to look for vacuum leaks, nothing.

I checked over the connections again and I'm pretty certain everything is going to the right place*ie no vacuum/coolant hoses mixed up. If I cannot diagnose the idle problem by Friday I will have to pay my tuner for it, which at this point is fine.

Brad

You can also use zip ties around all the vacuum lines to secure them to the intake manifold nipples, and replace the brake booster factory clamp with a worm screw clamp. I also noticed you may be using the water injection port on the lht manifold to mount your throttle cable bracket. Maybe try removing that and use some hondabond around the bolt when reinstalling it.

GOOCH-JDM-ITR

Thanks Brad, I will give the zip ties and worm screw clamp a shot. I wrapped all of the fittings going into the manifold with nylon tape, however most of the tape looked to back itself out as I screwed them in.

GOOCH-JDM-ITR

Here are some more pics of the install finished up.

Heat Exchanger mounted: (wound up raising it 1" from where it is in the pic to just below the bumper support)


Hoses routed to windshield washer tank, now my reservoir//degas tank:


Hoses/Reservoir tank with H20 pump in old ac component area:


Hoses routed from engine compartment to fender/bumper area:


H20 Pump 90* to hose tire clearanceits pretty close but it doesnt touch with suspension at max height/min height)


Hose clearance with hood closed:


Water wetter (15%) - Distilled Water (60%) - Anti-Freeze MIX (25%) was obviously too much water not enough antifreeze. DID not pass the freezer test:


Misc hose routing:




and all back together...ready for tuning!

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

Congates man happy you got it all sorted out
there is 1 other place they can and will leak
where the bypass bolts to the manifold the bolt closest to the TB does not seal from
the LHT end tank
this is a problem i raised with John @LHT and he said he cant seal it during welding
you just have to put sealant in the thread hole

GOOCH-JDM-ITR

oh man...Really?, that is a bitch to get to. I think they should have mentioned this in their install. Anyway, a great product with flawless build quality BUT the install instructions and diagram were a bit lacking.. I like the part where they casually mention the $1500 unit I just purchased actually requires a GSR T/B or an additional $200 to work properly. WTF that's more than I paid for the charger kit and its porting/rebuilding and I have to spend even more to make it work...(rant over). ANYWAYS...I will have a look at those bolts. Thanks Grim, you have been a TREMENDOUS help in getting things sorted out.

Looking forward to seeing what power I put down. I ran my setup though Veris' (thanks Veris!!) power calculator. A b18c @8.5psi should make around 240-250. I'm hoping for more, bracing for lower, either way should be more interesting on the road course when I'm no longer getting blasted by stock Subarus and may have a fighting chance.

GOOCH-JDM-ITR

Back from the tune, All went well, idle is better, smoke is gone.
overall a very nice smooth curve. Car feels much lighter on the street. Still havent really put my foot into it. I get home from the tune (car gets hot now--think I need a better radiator) and find what I thought to be a power steering leak is actually SC oil. Im bummed. Does anyone else have snout leak issues? Is it something that needs to be fixed with the unit off? Is there some thing I can do to put a "band aid" on it? Please advise. Graph below.

Brad

Nice graph. Looks similar to mine.

I actually just had my supercharger rebuilt by Stiegemeier. Drove it around the block, light throttle, no boost, and noticed the snout leaking as well. I sent it back to them to fix.

GOOCH-JDM-ITR

Thanks Brad, Nice graph yourself. Lots a of torque. Did Steigemeier charge you for fixing the snout? Is it all better now? I was debating on doing it myself, or fabricating some sort of reservoir to dump fluid in as it leaks out, but really think I should just let them deal with it.

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

chart look real good
where did you end up with the Vtec shift point
I hope you can get that seal done under warranty without to much down time

Brad

Steigemeier still has mine. They haven't said yet if they are going to charge me anything.

GOOCH-JDM-ITR

Thanks Grim, and thanks for helping me get up and running (for the 1 day it was :0 )
I think the tuner mentioned the VTEC set point at 3500 rpm(only at WOT), definitely in that range-I haven't had the chance to look at his hondata file yet with the snout seal leak and all...I also had to cancel my trip to the ITR expo this year. What a bummer. Pulled the unit out today and its certainly not a large leak, only under boost. Even though I'm only a month out of warranty I hope they do honor it. The charger maybe has 100 miles on it, and at that, maybe 10 were in boost.. I will know in a couple days.

NOW while the charger is out I'm debating on getting a 3.8 pulley to up the boost a little. Also my 4.0" retained damage on the ribs(that I filed down a bit and painted over) from the poorly packaged shipment from the moron I got it off of on ebay (lied about including injectors and CRV pulley included was a GSR)....If I get a smaller pulley and have more boost, would HAVE to re-tune?

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

yeah just about any change is a retune but once you have that first tune the ret are just touch ups as most of the hard work is done

GOOCH-JDM-ITR

Thanks JDMRACER01 - make sure you double check your gaskets and honda-bond application before installing. If you didnt order the map re-locator from LHT and dont have a spare MAP to block off on the T/B you can order it for 1/3 the price here on ebay (just found it this morning) http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI...E:B:SS:US:1123

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

sorry dude had to giggle reading that Rant
Im in for 17K so far including motor/box


re the help more than glad to help out

YewllowDA

iTrader: (1)

How did you get it idle better? Just tuning?

Im having the same idle problem, before sending it out for tuning.....

bigpunn421

i would also like to know how the idle was fixed

pm me please

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

Not surprised by this, stiegemeier has a horrible reputation amongst the v8 guys.

GOOCH-JDM-ITR

Well just got my charger back from Steigemeir. They say they put the unit up to 25lbs of boost and could not get it to leak. (So Im crazy) They say they replaced the front snout seal to be safe and charged me a fraction of the normal price (75$) and $45 to ship it. So I'm out another 125$ and all the time to take out the unit, reinstall, + the $400 I lost since I signed up for a track day and had no car to attend with. I'm going to reinstall it when I get my oil cooler/breather box worked out, drive the **** out of the car for the rest of the year, and look for a CRV pulley to up the boost a bit after the winter. At this rate I figure I'm about $6,000 into this kit (most likely more but I dont want to admit it). I know I could have saved a lot of money but oh well, live and learn.

Next time I will just smack myself upside the head and go turbo or just buy a used Ducati and be over it.

wunfstgsr

You know this is many of the reasons why i sold my LHT/JRSC race kit and went with the ATI procharger super charger because its a much more efficient and has way less maintenance and install time. Don't get me wrong i liked the low to mid range from the JRSC but hp falls short and heat soak becomes a major factor with the overall design, and maintenance and installation is a p.i.t.a! it takes me no more than 10 mins to change the s.c. pulley or belt where as on the jrsc it would take triple that or more.
In comparison on my stock usdm ITR motor i made 285hp @ 12psi with bolt on's with the JRSC/LHT setup, and im now making aprox 295hp @ 6psi with sk2 bolt ons and theres still much more tuning to be done so it should break 300hp. Im retuning the motor with 12psi to see the difference in the power band from the jrsc and the pro charger @ 12psi.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...556604&page=12

http://youtu.be/ImvM5N-H-10

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

waitng for your updates



HURRY UP

GOOCH-JDM-ITR

I read your thread well before I bought my used JRSC unit. I wanted to believe you were wrong for abandoning the LHT but maybe I wasn't. Im not fully regretting anything yet as I have barely even ran the car. The procharger has a very high upfront cost (isnt it like 5gs) and the JRSC I got used on ebay for 1300. So at the time it was easy to plunk that down, its only after the porting/rebuilding/LHT'ing and all the **** that goes with it, that I reached a number anywhere near the procharger. If I knew upfront it was going to cost me so much I may have gone with another route. BUT it was pretty damn fun at only 5psi for the 15 minutes I drove it. I just figured for what I was going for (a barely streetable but VERY track worthy caR) that would be able come up to speed quicker than its NA state. At this point I wont know until next year. I can see me squeezing another 20hp out of this setup and then just focusing on the cage and what not. Guess I just need to get it running before I say anymore....

GOOCH-JDM-ITR

As for the idle, we adjusted it via the HONDATA and it barely worked. Tuner suggested it was the IAC valve since the idle should adjust with the computer. He got it to a managable level, but after taking the car home it started to get funky again, NOT as bad as it had been, but still not right. Took off the IAC valve and cleaned again, then lubed the plunger inside. It was a bit better but still not right. Finally after doing that once more and checking the throttle body, my Dad decide's to employ some "old school" method to it. When the car was idling rough he simply tapped the IAC valve with a wrench a couple of times. The idle slowly dropped to where it should be. This gave us the inclination that perhaps the plunger mechanism inside is getting stuck somehow and cannot get the car back to normal idle. SO I will order a used one soon.

I forgot to mention my new concern of the heat, blow by, and everything else.
I'm piecing together an oil cooler for starters since I can get this in while the blower is off. Should have the main parts today (cooler core, thermostatic plate,) so I will detail that in the next post.

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

good to see your still going at it
oil cooler is a good idea with a thermo
have you got your catch can setup yet