aleks77

hey guys im about a day or two away from firing up my fresh built engine, im gonna run it n/a no turbo for a month or so, using stock ecu, stock injectors, near stock cam, stock exhaust/intake, etc. Car is 91 accord with f22a6 SOHC.

Here is my start up/break in procedure, i just need someone with experience to look over it and tell me what they think plzz

- 10w30 regular oil, no synthetic
- pull injector clips, dizzy, and spark plugs
- crank the engine and watch the gauge for oil pressure
- once oil pressure built, plug in all the stuff
- fire it up
- run for 10 mins, until fan comes on, check timing (timing gun)
- first 10 mins keep the rpms 1500-2500
- turn it off, drain oil, change filter
- turn back on, bleed radiator?
- adjust valves after 10 min idle+20 mins driving

break-in;

- accelerate/decelerate through different gears, goin up to 80% of redline, WOT at times
- do not idle for too long
- no highway cruising
- do that for 200 miles
- drain oil/change filter at; 10 mins, 100 miles, 500 miles, 1000 miles, than regular + switch to synthetic

is that about right? thanks guys!!

p.s. do i need to set the timing with the timing light? or can approx it, and if the car runs fine drive it for the 20 mins, take it down to my shop and set the timing there? or am i gonna cause damage to the motor with the timing 2-3-4 degrees off? ignition timing that is. THanks!

RedneckRicer

make sure your not pig rich otherwise you can wash out your rings. you can break in your engine on the dyno and have it tuned right away. safest and smartest thing to do IMO if you want the most out of your build.

non-VTEC

I'm pretty sure you will find cranking a fresh engine/oil pump/filter for the first time you will not get any oil pressure. so cranking it constantly until you try to get and pressure reading will just do more harm than good. some oil pumps require more rpm to flow oil than the 200rpm the starter can crank.

i would just fire it up and let it idle for a minute or so just to make sure there are not leaks or unusual noises then bump up the rpm to 2000-2500 for 10-15min while you bleed the coolant.

dbiker207

any engine i have built i have primed the oil system the way the op explained, thats the right way. running the car without the turbo kit isnt necessary. start the car and tune the idle. then while its warming up bleed the cooling system. once its warmed up set the timing. then take it to the dyno and tune the engine.

this is a good write up: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397

twkdCD595

I am a believer in the late great earl laskey method of breakin (and mike laskey as well). which is also suggested by motoman and other professional engine builders.

http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/breakin.htm

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


Modified by twkdCD595 at 10:50 AM 7/8/2008

RedneckRicer

initial cranking to get oil pressure should not harm anything. thats if everything has proper amount of assembly lube on it.

aleks77

i have read both earl's and moto man's break-ins like 10 times lol.

the reason i dont want to run the turbo is because of lack of funds, and lack of parts at the moment. My daily beater has died and i need a car to drive, and driving my car n/a shouldnt harm anything, so i been told?

welfarepc

im just gonna be the one to say dont adjust your valves hot. you adjust them cold when the motor is under 38deg C

aleks77

thank you can i run my wideband in place of the stock o2 sensor? or must the stock o2 sensor be in there...?

I Have an STD

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aleks77 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thank you can i run my wideband in place of the stock o2 sensor? or must the stock o2 sensor be in there...?</TD></TR></TABLE>

sure, if you have the narrowband output run to the ecu, or if you have the o2 disabled in your ecu and your stock tune is good enough.

aleks77

well im running everything stock pretty much....how do i know if i have narrowdband? i got the LC1 wideband

awdgsx96

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aleks77 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well im running everything stock pretty much....how do i know if i have narrowdband? i got the LC1 wideband</TD></TR></TABLE>

The stock 02 sensor reads for a narrowband to the ECU

The LC1 is an aftermarket wideband system.

welfarepc

the LC1 also simulates narrow band

make sure to update the LC-1s firmware, i did it on day one and havn't had a problem for a year or more

go to the innovate website and download the user manual for the LC-1. all the info is in there.

Tippyman

Just watch the wideband on startup to make sure it's high 14's to 15's. (14.7 is ideal, but with a narrowband it will fluctuate.)

When it's warmed up, set timing and let the coolant bleed. Then change the oil and drive it for a while, make sure everythings good, vary the RPM's, take it to redline, beat on it, compression brake it, etc. Then change the oil again and roll out...

That's what i did. She runs like a champ and pulls 20 in.hg at ide.

aleks77

i guess im gonna install the wideband and figure everything out and get the narrowband signal goin to the ecu. I have no idea how to do that lol but ill read the manual and figure it all out, i guess you cant be too cautious, i paid around $5000 for the engine/parts/labour/etc so i dont wanna [freak] it up. Thanks for the help guys.

Unless someone can tell me for sure that i dont need to run wideband and that everythin will be ok? lol

engine specs;

Built head (f22a6 SOHC)
--- Some Port and Polish
--- 3 Angle Valve Job
--- Flat Mill Decks
--- New valve seals
--- Crower Acura RSX Dual Valve Springs (custom fitted)
--- Crower Acura RSX Titanium Retainers (custom fitted)
--- Ferrea 30mm Exhaust valve, 5.46mm stem, 123.55mm OAL
--- Ferrea 33mm Intake valve, 5.48mm stem, 112.10 OAL
* F22 block, stock sleeves, bored to 85.5mm (0.5mm over)
* Balanced rotating assembly
* Delta 260 Camshaft
* AEM TruTime Cam Gear
* Wiseco Forged Pistons 8.8:1 CR + Rings + Pins, Custom made to work with H22 rods in my F22 block with F22 pistons
* Eagle Forged Rods (H22 H-Beam ESP)
* ARP Headstuds
* ARP Main Studs
* ACL Main and Rod bearings
* New OEM Headgasket for F22 (works with the 85.5mm bore)
* New OEM Waterpump and Timing Belt
* New OEM Crank pulley, Seals, O-rings, Gaskets, Thrust washers, Hoses etc.
* Toga High Volume Oil Pump
* AEM High Flow Fuel Rail
* Extrude Honed (extreme port and polish) f22a6 Intake Manifold + Bored out TB
* Bisimoto Intake Manifold Gasket

first 1-2months will be using;

stock injectors
stock intake piping
stock header/complete exhaust
stock ecu

Tippyman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aleks77 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Unless someone can tell me for sure that i dont need to run wideband and that everythin will be ok? lol

</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you're using the stock ECU/ injectors, etc. then there's nothing you can do to really tune the engine anyway. The wideband is more of a way to just see what's going on to be sure.

You'll be fine.

aleks77

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you're using the stock ECU/ injectors, etc. then there's nothing you can do to really tune the engine anyway. The wideband is more of a way to just see what's going on to be sure.

You'll be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats a good point, im gonna check out the manual and read around, i wouldnt mind setting it up just to know for sure, maybe after 100 miles if the readings are consistant ill switch back to stock o2 sensor until i boost. Dont wanna burn the wideband sensor for no reason

oneludesol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aleks77 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

- 10w30 regular oil, no synthetic
- pull injector clips, dizzy, and spark plugs
- crank the engine and watch the gauge for oil pressure
- once oil pressure built, plug in all the stuff
!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Leave everything plugged in, and just pull the ecu fuse...

aleks77

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aleks77 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
p.s. do i need to set the timing with the timing light? or can approx it, and if the car runs fine drive it for the 20 mins, take it down to my shop and set the timing there? or am i gonna cause damage to the motor with the timing 2-3-4 degrees off? ignition timing that is. THanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

anyone got any input on this?

Paintballguy

i dont believe in breakin...

think about all the pro racers (NHRA Top Fuel, NASCAR, F1, etc...) they have to have a new motor built and ready to rock for a event. Do you think they are driving it 500 miles first? Sure, they throw motors on a dyno but it cant be for too long. I don't think it takes much to get the rings seated properly.

dornon13

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Paintballguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont believe in breakin...

think about all the pro racers (NHRA Top Fuel, NASCAR, F1, etc...) they have to have a new motor built and ready to rock for a event. Do you think they are driving it 500 miles first? Sure, they throw motors on a dyno but it cant be for too long. I don't think it takes much to get the rings seated properly.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those engines arent meant to last 100,000 miles or more, but I think you are right the first few miles are going to play a big role in the break in. I broke mine in with alot of engine braking for like 50-100 miles and everything worked well.