4rc-fed

I have a problem. The car is a boosted 1999 gsr and i am having major issues with fueling/electrical ****.

First, let me introduce you to the car.




The best way that i can descibe the problem is that it seems to run two different ways. One of the ways it runs is horrible. No matter how rich it is tuned at idle there is always a pop in the exhaust note. On top of the pop in the exhaust note it generally runs crappy. It doesn't fire right up, it always takes feathering of the throttle and **** like that.

The other way it runs is..... well perfect. There is no pop in the exhaust note, and around town on and off throtle it is a lot smoother.

Stick with me here on this one.... the crazy part comes into play when I will be sitting in the car as it idles, and do something such as roll up the windows or turn on the lights.... anything that would pull electrical power from the car.... and all of a sudden the damn fuel pump will kick up and change frequincies as if it is running at a higher strength or with more power. The a/f will richen up by about a point and a half... and the pop will be gone from the exhaust. The car will be running perfect. Drive it 15 miles, and by the time you're stopped about to get out... the car will be back to running like **** again.

Now, i know electrical problems could probably be caused by any number of things... but the best i can do is just list my setup and anything that may cause this.

GT28R
2.5 in DP
Greddy Evo2 exhaust
RC 750cc injectors
Hondata s200b w/ dataloging
Walbro 255lph In-tank
PLX m300 wideband
Compustar 2WSS Alarm/remote start/turbo timer (This is being ripped out as i type this by a local shop.... I am praying this is my problem)


Also, it's running about ~7 psi on low boost and about ~8 creeping to 10 on high.


**Also i would like to make a note that the problem with the car is most definitely not in the tune. The problem is physical.... when you trigger the switch between crappy and perfect by rolling up the windows, there is a noticeable difference in the overall electrical power of the car. The lights will brighten and the fuel pump will run "stronger"**

TAI for anyone who has any idea what i should do

non-VTEC

popping sounds coming from the exhaust usually means its running lean. is your hondata system properly tuned?

you should check the voltage in your electrical system and check the voltage at the fuel pump....walbro pumps have been known to take a crap on some people and they do like a good constant power source. so maybe having a spare one just incase might be a good idea.

if you getting funky electrical voltages check all your power and ground contacts. make sure they are all clean and are getting good contact.

check or replace your ELD sensor (electronic load detector) its supposed to sense for different voltages in the electrical system and make the ECU compensate for it......another thing to look for is that its not disabled in your hondata program.......that could be causing your problem...ask your tuner about that.

dornon13

This isnt your car and how old is that picture?

The Weather Man

Yes. Check the alarm. I've never had luck with compustar.

But once thats taken out - and if the problem still exists - check for corrosion. You probably have voltage being eaten somewhere. Find out what circuit the fuel pump is part of. I don't know if it has its own circuit - but if it does, start checking voltage drops.

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

They are midgets not daemons

4rc-fed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dornon13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This isnt your car and how old is that picture?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Never said i owned it

That picture is about a month old. Since then the pinstripe has been removed


Thanks for help... anyone else got any ideas?

sp00led

anyone?

dornon13

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4rc-fed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Never said i owned it

That picture is about a month old. Since then the pinstripe has been removed


Thanks for help... anyone else got any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

that and the antenna and strutbar and add edfc haha

4rc-fed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dornon13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that and the antenna and strutbar and add edfc haha </TD></TR></TABLE>

no strutbar just yet

4rc-fed

que?

sp00led

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4rc-fed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

no strutbar just yet</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think he means the stock bar is off now and on in the pic. Tein needs to hurry up and start selling those EDFC compatible upper bars they put in there 05 spring catalog. They got my hopes up long ago and every time I call they tell me to call back in a few weeks.

sp00led

Someone told me the ELD is located on the altinator on OBDII cars and not the fues box like OBDI. Can anyone verify that?

sp00led

DAMN!!! Finally datalogged my car ******* up. I recorded the way to work and once I pulled up to my office parking lot went to park and car was poppin and soundin like total ***. Look down and at idle it's at 12.1-12.3 volts ecu. I let the turbo timer run and about 30sec before it cuts off I hear the fuel pump come to life, the pop goes away, and idle smooths out. The second it did this the ecu voltage goes to 14.1-14.3 like it stayed while cruising down I565. Now this doesn't explain why but this seems to be the issue that makes tunning my car impossible. Shouldn't the car be at 14 volts while running at all times? I thought the only time it should read 12V is if I had the key turned to the on position but the car not actually running. Thoughts?

VTC_CiViC

Alternator may be dieing, ELD could be dieing, among other things..

per4mance

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sp00led &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Someone told me the ELD is located on the altinator on OBDII cars and not the fues box like OBDI. Can anyone verify that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That would explain why my car dosen't detect a load when the lights and AC is on.Since I did a h swap in my 00 Si, it has an obd1 alternator on it.So with having the experiance on why i can't get my car to idle up when there is a load on the battery, i would say yes that obd2 cars have them in the alternator instead of the fuse box.

*Boostwerks*

Yup, I would definetly say either the ELD or the voltage regulator in the alt.

Mase

actually, ill put a dollar its within the tune , make sure the ELD is disabled in hondata.


i didnt really read the whole thread,

but does voltage fluctuate a lot? does voltage sit around 12v at idle then when u reach say 3000 rpms to comes back to 14 v?

and what version of hondata are u running?

sp00led

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mase &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually, ill put a dollar its within the tune , make sure the ELD is disabled in hondata.


i didnt really read the whole thread,

but does voltage fluctuate a lot? does voltage sit around 12v at idle then when u reach say 3000 rpms to comes back to 14 v?

and what version of hondata are u running?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mase, I'll paypal you that dollar Disabled ELD in hondata and now its like I have a toatly different car. My prayers have finally been answered. I stumbled across this thread https://honda-tech.com/zeropost?cmd=tshow&id=696631 and he discribed my problem to a T. I remember my bro had an AIM conversation with you 2 weeks ago where you suggested this but I just now got to a rom editor.

THANK YOU MASE, AzG35, AND EVERYONE ELSE WHO GAVE ME IDEAS TO TRY ON HONDA-TECH. YOU GUYS ALL ROCK ITS **** LIKE THIS THAT MAKES THIS SITE #1 FOR HONDA'S.

Mase

hehe, the only reason i thought of this, because i was the very first one who had this problem way way way back in the day... back when hondata was just getting big.

its the obd2bd1 conversion.

this was before u could disable the ELD.

i had to cut one of the ALT wires from the ecu, and it fixed the problem

basically the ecu wasnt telling the alternator to stay on....


Glad i was able to help, good luck.