DC4_Dad

Hey guys,

I've been in the Honda game for years now, but only ever concerning myself with N/A engines. But now as my B18B1 climbs the odometer (225k miles), I'm gettin closer and closer to pulling the engine for a rebuild. All my buddies drive big displacement V8 Camaros or turbo Audi/VW's, so boosting my Integra would allow me to keep up if not give them a run for their money.

I don't really have any Honda friends, and the ones I do have are VTEC fan boys who have never gone the turbo/supercharger route. So, I'm sort of doing all this on my own and I'd like some input on what I'm planning to do. Here's my parts list:

Nippon Racing rods and pistons
ACL Race bearings
ARP head studs
Moroso oil pan
Cosmetic head gasket
Go Autoworks turbo kit
AEM wideband
Hondata
750cc RC injectors
225 Walbro fuel pump

I'm sending the block out to be hot tanked, decked, crankshaft polished, etc.

My goal is to reach 250-300whp and be able to drive it as a daily. I'll be getting a legitimate tune on the dyno and everything. But my question is, will the above components surfice? What Hondata should I run? What's the difference in injectors that you need a resistor box verses the ones you don't? Is a oil filter sandwich plate the best way to run the oil line to the turbo? Where should I route the piping from the waste gate? Do I need a catch can for the numbers I'm trying to achieve? And what kind of spark plugs work the best?

extremeracer

Welcome to the world of Turbocharged Hondas.

You overall parts list sounds good. I have no experience with Nippon Pistons and Rods (I'm sure some other members will chime in).
From the Go Autoworks options, I'd go for a GT2860RS or a TurboneticsT3/T04 ball bearing option or Garrett GTX28 if you want to spend a few more $.

Don't forget you'll probably need an upgraded clutch at this point (ACT SSHD, Comp Clutch Stage 2, or Clutchmasters FX300).
Hondata S300v3 is the latest version for this platform, but really any S300 will work.

Buy a set of new EV14 style high impedance injectors, which will eliminate the need for a Resistor box. RC injectors are very old school and not very popular anymore, they also low impedance so they require a resistor box. You can get a set of 750cc Bosch EV14 from five0 motorsport for a good price.

Hope this helps

DC4_Dad

Thank you, this is helpful. I completely forgot to mention a clutch. Stage 2 would be enough to transfer the power and still comfortable enough to drive daily? Do you have any suggestions as to what turbo manifold to go with? There's the cast one, stainless log style and a mini ram horn. I don't want to spend extra money if I don't have to. I'm trying to keep my budget under $5,000 in all (machine shop, parts, and tune) and it's not like I'm trying to make crazy high numbers.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

"Stage 2" is a relative term, and really goes to the company that is chosen. I've found that both Exedy Cerametallic (08950B) and the Clutchmasters FX300 are on the top of the list of normal drivability without harsh engagement, yet can easily hold the amount of increased torque that the transmission will experience from a turbocharger.

Some will disagree, but the only cast manifolds I've ever been able to trust are from Inline Pro, and that is because they are a stainless steel cast manifold. Other Iron and Iron-Nickel manifolds tend to force the user to mount an external wasteagate in an area in which hood clearance may be affected.

Here are what I believe are the best options to utilize by way of exhaust manifold. As for the turbocharger, well.... It's best for me to not get into that without sounding rather bias. I'd hate for someone to be offended.

1) Tubular "log" manifold




This is not to be confused with a simple "cast" log manifold.. This tubular log is the best version to get because it allows you to choose the wastegate flange (V-band or 2 bolt) vs. the cast log, and allows for easier repair should something go wrong later. I've had this manifold easily make over 520whp without a sweat and still allows for the A/C and power steering.

It uses this type of turbine housing (T31 "4 bolt") which is typically easier to mount with less work, and is less expensive than the "5 bolt" Ford style turbine housing.



This particular example is using a T04B version turbo on a B-series. Notice how no block grinding was required from the tubular log , downpipe and dumptube







That cast exhaust manifold (Which is sometimes used, but I make sure they are avoided for better consistency) is made for turbine housings of a Ford Style "5 bolt" configuration so that it ***** the compressor cover towards the engine block itself. This means that the downpipe can still be about 2.5-3" (which is fine for 350-400whp) and keep as much heat away from the A/C compressor as possible. The downpipe needs to be wrapped and high temp coated in order for it to work. But it also requires grinding of the block to fit any turbo that uses a T04E compressor cover. If the turbo has a T04B compressor cover, the grinding usually isn't required. It also means that you have to use 2-bolt style wastegate flange, because the cast manifold doesn't allow for any other choices.








The best company to get that style manifold from is from Inline Pro over Go-Autoworks, because the Inline Pro uses a stainless cast steel, and not a nickel-Iron like Go-Autoworks or other manufacturers.





2) "Mini-Ram" Exhaust manifold

This one is the more popular design, but takes a bit more work to utilize depending upon engine bay and chassis.





You can have an easier fitment with a turbocharger using a T04E compressor cover or T04B, so you have some options for fitment, and not have to worry about grinding the block, although fitment can get tight.




350whp-700whp can be made with this style. The drawback is routing the oil return line. Especially if using a Moreoso or stock OEM oil pan, it can get tight, as noted in this thread here:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...stion-3290819/

So, I recommend Option 1 1st, then Option 2. Whatever you do, GET THE MANIFOLD, DOWNPIPE, & DUMPTUBE FROM THE SAME SOURCE TO ENSURE PROPER FITMENT. Don't go around getting the manifold from one area, and dumptube or downpipe from another.

DC4_Dad

Log style tubular manifold

Okay, thank you for all the input. This is what I'm thinking for my application from the information you provided.

DC4_Dad

The turbo highlighted in the picture isn't necessarily the one I'm going to buy, I meant the manifold. I'm just showing the selection I have to choose from. I'll have to look up each one individually to find out which has the 4-bolt design.

2kdrift

He no longer sells that kit. notice its out of stock. You can either go with a mini ram from him or if requested he will make a kit with an inline pro manifold

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

or calling him, he may allow the tubular log to be made as a special order. I know they just don't have them on pre-made on their shelves. Doesn't mean he doesn't still have the welding jig to make one. . Never hurts to ask.
I'm sure that Go-Auto would prefer that than someone requesting that they reconfigure their welding jig for an inline pro manifold of some sort.

2kdrift

Yes I agree he might do it if you ask I dont see why not, or buy a pfab manifold and send it in if you really want to go that route however apparently he would rather not make them anymore. He does do just about anything tho and this is his slow time of year so now would be the perfect time.

Hes an inline pro dealer, not sure if a jig is required for just a downpipe at any rate hes fully capable, got my inline pro hot parts kit yesterday from him

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

^^It's hard to say 2kdrift. It could be either way for them to be more efficient. We really can't speak for GAW, so, I guess we're stuck with probability, speculation, and some good luck.

I guess I'm the type of person that doesn't look at the website itself containing the only choices, you know?

2kdrift

its all good, I had this kit many years ago from him, I had some issues with it as it does not leave much room between compressor housing and radiator. possibly he had too many issues with it.

just putting the information out there, agreed this is just speculation OP would need to contact greg for verification

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

OP is better off with a smaller style manifold over anything "cool" or "cute" like some Kooks-styled manifold.

DC4_Dad should check out the "Which manifold is for me?" thread. That way he can at least better understand why we're suggesting what we are suggesting.

Why top mount? - Honda-Tech

DC4_Dad

I think I'm going to use a mini ram turbo manifold. I don't have any desire to keep my A/C and/or power steering, and given that the block will be built, this seems like the best route. I can rev the engine out high and utilize the top end power from max boost. Log style manifolds would restrict the flow at high RPM's

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Not necessarily. This isn't necessarily black or white here. It depends upon the turbocharger you ultimately use. (Not saying you shouldn't go with the mini-ram, but I am saying that you can't make a conclusion like that so quickly.)

This particular example is using a T04B version of one of a 59lbs/min B-series (custom Garrett). Notice how no block grinding was required from the tubular log , downpipe and dumptube





Same car using on 91 octane / Water-Meth Injection



That cast exhaust manifold (Which is sometimes used, but I make sure they are avoided for better consistency) is made for turbine housings of a Ford Style "5 bolt" configuration so that it ***** the compressor cover towards the engine block itself. This means that the downpipe can still be about 2.5-3" (which is fine for 350-400whp) and keep as much heat away from the A/C compressor as possible. The downpipe needs to be wrapped and high temp coated in order for it to work. But it also requires grinding of the block to fit any turbo that uses a T04E compressor cover. If the turbo has a T04B compressor cover, the grinding usually isn't required. It also means that you have to use 2-bolt style wastegate flange, because the cast manifold doesn't allow for any other choices.