a1320honda

So i put on my Holset HX35 2 days ago and i love it, but i had to do some stuff to get it in. Like i had to cut up the fan shroud and move it to the front of the radiator and reversed the polarity so its a push config. Ans also there a portion of the downpipe that I thermal wrapped but sits about 1.5" from the radiator. The car has NEVER gotten hot at all until this. Its takes some time but eventualy overheats, and when it cools down theres basicaly no water in it, but ive been filling it with water since this happened cause they frown on coolant out at the track. So is it just cause im usin straight water. I reconfigured it and now theres just a smaller fan on the back side of the readiator now, but pushing a little on an uphill 8mile section it was starting to get hot and took about 1/4 of coolant to come back up. So is it a problem of the downpipe bein too close, or maybe a thermostat sticking, or because i was running straight water? Any info available would be helpful. Thanks

This is the way it was

NJIN BUILDR

You should use some water wetter (Redline) or at least some water pump lube (available at auto parts store).Race tracks allow both of these.Having that puller fan running backwards is very inefficient and will also block flow through the radiator at higher speed.Do you know were the lost water is going ? Is it filling the overflow bottle ? Out the exhaust ? Or into the engine ?

splitime

You say u have a small fan behind the radiator now? It might not be enough.

Also, pull the stock fan out, or run some power wires to it and see if it really pushes air well. We tested a fan in reverse the other day... and it blew absolutely 0 air in the middle, it all went out the sides due to the fin design.

ladysman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NJIN BUILDR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should use some water wetter (Redline) or at least some water pump lube (available at auto parts store).Race tracks allow both of these.Having that puller fan running backwards is very inefficient and will also block flow through the radiator at higher speed.Do you know were the lost water is going ? Is it filling the overflow bottle ? Out the exhaust ? Or into the engine ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Listen to him. Your fan setup isn't the greateast. Don't run straight water. Do a 60/40 mix (more water than coolant) but don't run straight water.

I have posted the below countless times here. Looks like you have plenty of room. I know you can't do the plate by the looks of it but the fan below as a puller will help a ton.

I too was having cooling issues or at least I didn't like the engine running 205 on water temp all the time nor did I like having to the put heat on in the summer.

My old setup consisted of a Autozone 12" fan that I got for like $50 but it wasn't helping at all. I found out it was rated at like 800cfm which simply isn't enough. So I did some looking around and found this fan from Permacool (smaller than the one Platinum used BUT I used it as a puller).
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

I figured this should be plenty for me. After driving it to the battle of the imports, I have determined it works extremely well. I use Neptune RTP and set the fan to kick on @ 175. The water temp gauge NEVER got above 190 so I may fiddle with neptune a little to bring that up maybe a little. Simple software change. I changed NOTHIGN else in the car at all.

All in all, I HIGHLY recommend this fan. It was worth every penny and I'm glad I ditched the other one. Oh and it is actually pretty quiet. I was surprised.

Here are some pics of comparison. And yes, it was a tight fit.





Underneath shot


Top shot.


Also, if you do NOT have AC, you need to do this. It forces air to the radiator.
Simple piece of aluminum from Lowe's.


Hope this helps others.

CRX T-Si

Man, that fan infront of your Rad is your old A/C fan. That explains why you were having cooling problems...plus you just put it there without any air direction so that is a double no no.

Do what ladysman says and get yourself that 12" permacool one. That sucker is rated at 1400CFM. That badboy will cool your **** down, price for this one was $80bux but they jacked it up to $100 now.

If you do not have the cash for that one then you may be away with the regular slim fan. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1473722 please ignore that claimed rating as that is not true.

a1320honda

Thanks for all the replies guy. I did cut up the stock cooling fan and quickly realized that was a joke. PLus im prett sure the biggest problem was it was straight water which was getting hot enough and evaporating. So i got a fan back on the backside of the radiator and put some actual antifreeze in. so well see how it goes.

kyden

sounds like you popped a head gasket.

and thats a nice hole in your wastegate elbow.

MADMAX_zero

Straight water is never going to perform very well under stock cooling system pressures. It's going to boil inside the block near the cylinder walls, raising the pressure and escaping through the cap, and reduce heat transfer.

To run straight water, you'll need a much higher pressure cap, around 60 psi water boils at over 300 F and then new lines, cause all the stock ones will probably blow at 60 psi.

Even worse, is that straight water causes corrosion. Adding coolant, increases the boiling point and prevents corrosion.


Get at least 10% coolant in there and get a higher pressure cap.

a1320honda

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kyden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like you popped a head gasket.

and thats a nice hole in your wastegate elbow. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It puts down 180 compression in every hole, and thats just a brace on the wastegate below the actual pipe, i figured somone was gonna say that.