drintegra

We just installed my friends turbo. He has a t3/t4 with a log mani, 3inch DP and the regular turbo stuff. Running Crome, not tuned just a bsae map, we have the PLX 300. The car was run open dp to drive it to the muffler shop. When we turned it on it fired up fine, but the Idle fuctuated up and down about 1000rpm from 600 up to 1600 consistently even after warm up. It reaches full boost at 4500k and starts to boost at about 3400rpm. After like 5000 it starts to like misfire. We have the NGK bkr7 gapped to about 28. Dunno what the hell is going on. Ignition is at like 14 degrees and afc is stock settings. boost goes up to 7psi, and it does well in first but in the other gears it sputters. ANy advice, I was thinking of getting the plugs out and gapping them to 25. Laos he has the 450 dsm injectors wired with 10ohms resistors on each. Any help would be appreciated.

Oh, by the way it is a b20z motor.

Guess it did not get fixed. Went to get the car tuned and it sputters at 5k on WOT then at like 6k again at WOT. Changed the distributor and re-gapped the plugs new. WTF

Vid on the 2nd page.

Update 04/30/2006, the car continues the same problem even after the new dizzy, the problem is not as pronounced as before, but after three days the sputter is back at 5k, and is mainly noticeable in 4th gear. The stock tach is not working again as b4 when the problem was very bad.

Update 05/22/06 PROBLEM IS FIXED, replaced the icm and coil and sprakplugs. ONe of the sprak plugs had a cracked porcelain section. Been fixed now for a few weeks so . Thanks for the help
Modified by drintegra at 9:39 PM 4/18/2006


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Modified by drintegra at 9:39 AM 4/22/2006


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Modified by drintegra at 9:27 AM 5/22/2006

Zakar

why is he boosting on a basemap?? does he want to rebuild soon? he will be if he keeps boosting

i know its hard.. but you cant boost on basemap


aftermarket fuel pump??

drintegra

255 lph walboro, we have the PLX just wanted to see if it was making boost, and everything was cool he is planning on tunning this weekend just wants to make sure everything is running ok, no sense in tunning if there is an alternate problem that will not be repaired through the ecu.

Soccerking3000

if he has crome take out teh afc it might still be altering some of the signals...

HaTa

Try running a diff distributor, that was the problem on my car..

Weq

check cap rotor leads etc. its missing for a reason. make sure the fuel filter isnt clogged.

drintegra

OH yeah he has a new fuel filter aswell. I will check the plugs, I know we did not replace the cap and rotor or the cables, but the cap rotor and the cables are all MSD from a few months back, like 6-9 months back.

drintegra

ttt, come on I need some help.

reactiondc2

my buddy had a similar problem..turned out to be a bad map sensor..worth a try i guess

drintegra

how do I check the map? Also I drove it last night and it was super rich on idle, so we fixed that temporarily but on part throttle is was like 13-12 AFR then I dropped the hammer and it went to like 10 initially then up to 12 AFR then it when it sputters it felt like the two step limiter, like hit the limiter and the FR shoots up so I let off. Dunno if it is because I let off or because of the tunning. I richened it uptop and continues to do the same thing. We did the fuel last night with the AFC.

drintegra

GOt the car streetuned through Phearable and the **** continued to sputter. It sputters at 5k and 6k if I stay part throttle it if fine to redline. It seems to sputter under full boost and load. Changed the dizzy and returned the coil back to stock cause we had a msd external coil. Dunno HELP

reactiondc2

have you tried a different map sensor yet?....what you are describing sounds exactly like what my friends car was doing

drintegra

will do this today. Why would the map act up now, and continue to run under the normal load? Also the car does not boost more then 8psi so why would there be an issue? or is this like the MAP is all together bad and messing up?

We did the street tune and it is currently pretty rich which is fine for right now AFR is in the high 10 to low 11 across the board.

reactiondc2

well what we were thinking is that under normal conditions then the map isnt seeing boost but under wot maybe the diaphragm inside the sensor was failing or something...i dunno worth a shot,as it takes about 2 minutes to try another one

TurboJesse

I get alot of cars with bad plug wires...def sounds ignition related to me. Take the AFC off the car, put all the wiring back to stock. New plugs, new Wires, Cap, Rotor, ignitor, etc. Use all OEM honda parts. Stock igniton is better than the MSD **** IMO, but ive still seen stock fail plenty of times (especially if it hasn't been kept up with and now 10-15 years old)...Good luck

drumking15

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboJesse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I get alot of cars with bad plug wires...def sounds ignition related to me. Take the AFC off the car, put all the wiring back to stock. New plugs, new Wires, Cap, Rotor, ignitor, etc. Use all OEM honda parts. Stock igniton is better than the MSD **** IMO, but ive still seen stock fail plenty of times (especially if it hasn't been kept up with and now 10-15 years old)...Good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep had a very similar problem on a customers car...100 bucks at honda fixed all his hiccups...i knew right from the get go when we started street tuning that it was all 100% ignition related....and all ive ever found that msd does for me...is similar to what a very close word...lsd...does to people...it just messes things up...go back to stock itll be all you need to support 400+whp

blazin99si

Hey guys Im the owner of the car. Lets see when this problem first started I changed the whole distributor including ICM and rotor, gapped the plugs which were only 3-4 days old(BKR7E)down to .28 and retarded the timing slightly. After doing that the car was running lean up top, pig rich on part throttle and idle but it wasnt hesitating, sputtering/misfiring or whatever it was pulling to redline with no hiccups, all on the basemap on Crome Pro. Whether it be part throttle or full throttle it was fine, even with the AFC hooked up, boost checked in at 9psi, just needed to get tuned to realize the full potential of the setup. Well took the car to get street tuned by John from Phearable.net, new set of plugs (BKR7E) gapped at .26, timing was advanced back to a little more than stock, leaned out the fuel on part throttle and idle, 11.8-12.7 on full throttle until and right away at 4500-5k to redline the stuttering/hestitation/stumbling on full throttle was back. Today I swapped out the map sensor with an extra one I had lying around, retarded/advanced the timing, checked the plugs, swapped out the MSD wires back to stock and.........nothing same **** but now itll stumble sometimes on part throttle, in any gear and boost is only at 7psi now. Swapped the original map sensor back on. Ive noticed the turbo is leaking a little oil from the center section and from one of the compressor bolts by the vacuum source which Im running the wastegate off of. I havent taken out the AFC yet just have the settings at 0. Im all out of ideas and I appreciate all you guys shooting me all the ideas thus far. Any other ideas/suggestions??

drintegra

Some more to add to this explanation: the car was run with spray, a 75 shot and it did this also a while back. We could not figure out what it was so he sold the kit. The ignition was pretty well cared for, he is pretty **** about his ****. The car ran fine NA all the way to redline. We put the turbo on and the ecu chipped with the basemap, and it hesitated from the begining of the install at 5k and above. We tried to fix it b4 the street tune, and got a friends dizzy put on. According to Blazin the car ran full boost to redline that day after the dizzy swap. Blazin found out that his old dizzy took a crap, consequently leading to the new dizzy. He rewired his msd external coil to the new dizzy and that is the way he ran it for that one day b4 the street tune. He said it ran fine. I drove the car to tampa to Phearable and I did not get on it too much on the way up there since it had no tune and was reading lean at like 4500 rpm. When we get there for the tune and do some full throttle runs the **** does it again.

Today after changing all that stuff, the car now feels like it is missing bad after 5k but revs to 7 anyway. It feels like it misses and then you get a rush of power in between 5-7k. The AFR are at 11's so that is good but now that everything is back to stock what else could it be?

Here are some pics since you guys like to look at pics, and maybe we will get more help this way


THe car has a stock dizzy with stock coil, msd rotor, and msd cap, bkr7 plugs gapped to like 26.
WTF
The Wip

THe install, sorry about the pics but it was dark


The turbo


Modified by drintegra at 9:45 PM 4/22/2006


Modified by drintegra at 3:18 PM 4/24/2006


Modified by drintegra at 6:50 PM 4/27/2006

TurboJesse

Seriously spend the money and get a new cap, rotor, ignitor, and NGK wires. Take the AFC off, ive had nothing but problems trying to tune cars that have had an afc on them, zero'ed out or not. You might have to spend some money to fix the problem...

blazin99si

Update: throttle at 31-33% pulls to redline no problem, no stumbling/hesitating or misfiring. Thanks TurboJesse Ima get a brand new rotor since the cap and plug wires are brand new OEM and take off the AFC and see what happens. Any other ideas or anything else I should look for??

D@nnY

its a bad sensor in the distributor...the coil and ignitor can be new and itll still do it...

change the distributor or borrow one from a friend....

usdm ws6

what map sensor are you running? maybe i missed that somewhere, but i was running the stock map and with my b16T setup and the basemap for crome pro did the same thing. It would hit a rev limiter around 4800 rpms. I bought a motorola 2.5 bar map brand new for $29.00. Wired it in, re street-tuned and it runs like a champ now. BTW im also 100% stock ignition minus plugs.

turbotime

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D@nnY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a bad sensor in the distributor...the coil and ignitor can be new and itll still do it...

change the distributor or borrow one from a friend.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

bingo. bad dizzy/ignitor, replace. Same thing happened on my first setup.

drintegra

thanks fellas, we might just get a new dizzy and see what happens, after that I guess take out the AFC all together. Tha car is a monster on part throttle, and like I told Blazin for our first install the **** is seriously out. With his b16 tranny you can hit redline in 5th with out even trying, he says redline in 5ht is 130 but feels like 115-120. We did not go to redline in 5th, at least I didnt, but when we were cruising from tampa I was in 5th at 5k criusing. SHort gear ratios are nuts. Anyway thanks for the help, we will try the stuff above when he gets the Dizzy. Maybe take off the afc???

Oh BTW if you look closely at the first pic under the lip you can see the plug for the exhaust cut out. NASTY cant wait to fix this **** and this is not even my car.

tegasaurus

same thing happend with my integra, in fact, we are running the same (nearly) setup. i replaced a lot of **** until a ran out of money and sold everything ha.