dohcsideSi

Hey guys kind of a weird problem here. Took the car out yesterday for a test and tune session. I pull up to the water box do a second gear burnout no problem, get on the 2 step and launch a little bit of a bog on the 1-2 shift then somewhere around 7000 RPM the car just shuts off. Its dead for a second then comes back on like nothing ever happened. shift to 3rd same thing.The only changes made since i was at the track 2 weeks ago were suspension height and preload changes, swapped map to 93 tune and replaced an interior fuse for the gauges.

Last time out the car ran great it just had some chassis issues preventing it from going straight so took it extra easy and didn't take a full pass. Ran 10.93 @115 off a crappy 1.84 60' coasting in.

I pulled out the fuse we replaced the night before and it made no difference. swapped maps and reloaded the 93 tune multiple times, although once after i reloaded it I was driving into the staging lanes and it hit limiter at 2200. Reloaded map, rev limiter back up to 9200. I'm completely lost here. i don't feel its a map issue because the car literally loses ALL power, guages, clock, radio and ECU. I tried to datalog all 4 runs and didn't get anything off the ECU.

I checked all grounds, sensors, battery cables, kill switch, fuses and couldn't find anything out of place. Its weird that it doesn't cut out in the burnout or launch or just revving it.

Anybody have an idea that can point me in a new direction?

dohcsideSi

Here is the mod list if that will help:

1996 Acura Integra LS

-p72 ecu chipped hondata s300 v3
w/boost hardware and pinned a11
-Mac boost solenoid
-Hondata COP retrofit
-OEM RSX coils
-NGK BKR8EIX plugs gapped .030

-Speedfactory 4 bar Map sensor
-Rywire budget harness ob2a to obd1/ground harness

-AEM uego wideband wired to s300 on pin D10
*resistors 136/138 not removed

-LS/VTEC conversion
-CSS block with copper o rings
(Minimal cleanup on decking)
-Manley turbo tuff I beam rods
-81.5mm CP 9.7 comp pistons
-ARP head studs
-GSR head stock port
(Unknown milling - looked like minimal cleanup)
-Supertech springs and Ti retainers
-Skunk 2 LMAs
-Skunk 2 Pro Series 1+ cams
(degreed to +1 intake, +5 exhaust)
-Skunk2 Pro series Adjustable can gears
-BWR Ls/vtec oil feed kit
-Gates timing belt
-ATI Fluid damper
-Skunk 2 74mm throttle body
-Skunk 2 ultra race manifold 4.5L (IAC delete)
-Full Race non AC ram horn manifold
-Precision 6266 sp turbo
-Tial 44mm waste gate
-Tial q 50mm bov
-Full Race back door intercooler
-Moroso oil pan and pickup
-10w30 Castro GTX

-8an fuel line feed/ stock feed as return
-Golden Eagle Pro Series fuel rail
-Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors
-walbro 400lph fuel pump
(With relay and 10ga wire)
-Bosch 044 inline pump
(With relay and 10ga wire)
-Weldon T2040 FPR
-Weldon -8an 40micron in line filter
-75psi base pressure

-Clutchmasters 725 twin disk clutch
-Quaife ATB LSD
-CncWerx 5th gear cuff
-Carbon syncros
-Penzoil synchromesh
-Driveshaft Shop 3.9 axles
-Keizer Slepen 13x10 bead locks
-M&H 24.5x9x13 slicks
-BLOX one piece drag coilovers
-BLOX full spherical rear lower control arms

2kdrift

check grounds / power wires at battery, seems like a connection issue does not sound ecu related as you said radio turns off as well

bigmikeinteg

Did you relocate the battery? Maybe a slack connection in the distribution block...??

supersilverdc2

happened to me, was the battery shorting when i would do a hard shift. wiring was touching the hood or something crazy

dohcsideSi

I did relocate my battery under the front bumper. I welded a bracket to the frame and it uses the the factory tie down and really doesn't move. I'm going to pull both connections apart and redo the ground. Nothing else really makes any sense.

Always something with this car. On the first run my aeromotive fuel pressure gage on the rail blew apart on the 1-2 shift. I have no idea how the car didn't catch fire. Part had 5 runs and a dyno session on it.

Edit:
the connection to the fuse box from the kill switch is kind of rigged but nothing moves independently. Hope to rip it apart this weekend.

LD9Stunner

I had what sounds like the same problem with my car and it ended up being that the battery tiedown was not tight enough to the point that the battery was getting thrown into the firewall on hard accell and in turn, arcing out the positive terminal (I didn't have terminal caps at the time). I would check for arcing marks around the terminal area where you remote mounted your battery.

Side note, I'm also from CT with a white turbo DC, maybe i'll see you at some events this year. I mostly hit LVD.

dohcsideSi

We were at LVD on Saturday for test and tune. Trying to go to the 13203 track rental in July. Would really love to have this car 100% way before then.

shcker3

I had the same thing happen to my 1998 hatch and it was my jumper harness to the ecu

hussain-vtec

check the ground wire that feeding the engine harness sensors if it lose that's your issue.

LightningTeg

ECU ground by thermostat, symptoms sound exactly like how it was when I had the same issue

BlewByYouDc2

having the same issue myself doesn't seem to be every pass but its like someone turns the key off until I let off the pedal and wait for the rpms to drop and mash back on it itl start going again... not sure whats going on but the only thing I haven't tried is a harness and another hondata. getting fusterating.. pretty much same setup hondata with cop.. did it before cop so I know its not that.. starting to think distributor pickup or something temperature related but right at about 7k and full load... and doesn't show up in the datalogs

civic-steve-94

I had similar issue, but my car would die them after about 5 minutes or so would be fine. Did it intermittently for awhile then got worse and worse. Turned out to be the resistors in the ecu had broken down and started to melt kinda. To check those popo the covers and look for a brown discoloration on either side of the board.