Everyones Hero

Right now I'm running a TD04 14G on my stock D16Z6. The turbo is pushing out 15psi. Haven't had any dyno runs, but it's run 13.8@104mph in a full interior 95 coupe.

Originally I was looking at 300whp, but I figured if I was going to waste the money on pistons/rods to go to 300whp I might as well take the motor to 400whp.

I'm in the 1st stage of my building process, which is building the block.

I've talked to a few people and I was reccomended Weisco pistons (I may end up using CP) and was told to use Manley rods due to the fact that Eagle rods will probably bend/warp at 400whp.

I am going to have it overbored at least .020, but doing that has me wondering how much HP the stock sleeves can take. I'm going to be tuning this conservatively, but I don't think there's anyway I can get 400whp out of a stock sleeved Z6.

I'm trying to see if there are alternatives to take the Z6 to 400whp without sleeving or if it has to be sleeved. I know CCFab is making good power with his devcon'd block, but that's not a D series and there are other B series motors on stock sleeves making similar power. Anyone other than Full-Race get a D series to over 400whp and get it to last?

Better yet: It would cost me nearly 3300 to send my block out to be sleeved and built. How much would it cost to have the block sleeved, buy the parts (rods, pistons, oil pump, gaskets, ect.) and just assemble it myself?

Also, I was told that the best turbo would be a GT35R (You should have seen my face when the guy told me to use one.) I was thinking a T3/T04E 54 trim would be good for 300whp-400whp. I want a turbo w/ good spool so I can scoot down the track, but I don't want something that's going to poop out on me in the top end.

mrbigg9032

[QUOTE= Eagle rods will probably bend/warp at 400whp.QUOTE]

Ummm no not really. I've seen plenty of hondas make 400-500 whp all day long on eagle rods.

Everyones Hero

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbigg9032 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[QUOTE= Eagle rods will probably bend/warp at 400whp.QUOTE]

Ummm no not really. I've seen plenty of hondas make 400-500 whp all day long on eagle rods.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just what I was told. I'll probably spend the little bit of extra money for the peace of mind.

mrbigg9032

Peace of mind with a car is great. I would do the same thing, damn whats a little more money at least u know u have the best parts.

Everyones Hero

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbigg9032 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Peace of mind with a car is great. I would do the same thing, damn whats a little more money at least u know u have the best parts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly. I'm already spending a descent amount on the rods, a little more won't hurt.

With sleeving it's a little different. If I don't sleeve it's free, but I risk blowing out the sleeves and screwing up the pistons/rods. Yet if I do sleeve it's going to cost me a grand, which is not chump change.

That's why I wish there was some kind of medium to sleeving/not sleeving or some kind of econo-sleeving that would be good just to take me to 400whp.

mrbigg9032

I would say go ahead and sleeve it then at least u know you bottom end is pretty much bullet proof. U can then always up the boost later and and make even more horsepower if u want

boostincoupe

There's a BIG difference between a 300whp SOHC and a 400whp one.

I'm shooting for 330-350whp MAX with my new setup. The reason is, I am not ready to dump $$$ into the head, because you'll need to if you want to make 350+whp efficiently.

Wiseco pistons, Eagle rods, ACL bearings, proper assembly/machine work, full 3" turbo-back exhaust, 2.5" IC piping, ACT XTSS clutch, Crome-tuned ECU, RC 550cc injectors, and TUNING TUNING TUNING are what you need. And other things.

KeyserSoze

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Everyones Hero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, I was told that the best turbo would be a GT35R (You should have seen my face when the guy told me to use one.) I was thinking a T3/T04E 54 trim would be good for 300whp-400whp. I want a turbo w/ good spool so I can scoot down the track, but I don't want something that's going to poop out on me in the top end.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you are going to use a t3/t4e turbo, use the 50, 57 or 60 trim. There would seem (from the comp map) to be no point in getting the 54 as the others outflow the 54 trim (yes even the 50 trim does). GL.

Everyones Hero

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostincoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's a BIG difference between a 300whp SOHC and a 400whp one.

I'm shooting for 330-350whp MAX with my new setup. The reason is, I am not ready to dump $$$ into the head, because you'll need to if you want to make 350+whp efficiently.

Wiseco pistons, Eagle rods, ACL bearings, proper assembly/machine work, full 3" turbo-back exhaust, 2.5" IC piping, ACT XTSS clutch, Crome-tuned ECU, RC 550cc injectors, and TUNING TUNING TUNING are what you need. And other things. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I was told not to get ACL bearings unless needed oversized ones or something. I was planning on going with something from EXEDY for a clutch. Guy at the local shop said he likes EXEDY clutches, but the only thing they have that's descent for a 400whp setup is their twin-disc clutch.

And yes, head porting will be part of the project, as well as a cam (ZEX 59300), rebuilt transmission w/ LSD, ect, ect. Just going to be doing this in steps.

I'm probably going to tune as conservatively as I can to get to 400whp.

This project may have to go on hold for awhile if gas prices continue to go up. $2.69-$2.74/gallon for 93. I might have to invest in a bike because of all the time I spend on the road.

I think I might end up getting the GT35R as opposed to the T3/T4e 50 or 57 trim simply for the difference in spool time. I'm not looking at 400whp just to say "I have a 400whp SOHC" (which I won't mind. ) but it's more to have better 1/4 times.

KeyserSoze: Thanks for that info on the t3/t4s. I didn't know the 50 would outflow the 54. I've just heard 50 for 300, 57 for 400+, so I figured a 54 would be the perfect medium.

And to the guy that PM'd me with the 35R for 900: I appreciate the offer, but I'm pretty much broke and want to get other parts of this build done before I buy another turbo.

boostincoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Everyones Hero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was told not to get ACL bearings unless needed oversized ones or something. I was planning on going with something from EXEDY for a clutch. Guy at the local shop said he likes EXEDY clutches, but the only thing they have that's descent for a 400whp setup is their twin-disc clutch.

And yes, head porting will be part of the project, as well as a cam (ZEX 59300), rebuilt transmission w/ LSD, ect, ect. Just going to be doing this in steps.

I'm probably going to tune as conservatively as I can to get to 400whp.

This project may have to go on hold for awhile if gas prices continue to go up. $2.69-$2.74/gallon for 93. I might have to invest in a bike because of all the time I spend on the road.

I think I might end up getting the GT35R as opposed to the T3/T4e 50 or 57 trim simply for the difference in spool time. I'm not looking at 400whp just to say "I have a 400whp SOHC" (which I won't mind. ) but it's more to have better 1/4 times.

KeyserSoze: Thanks for that info on the t3/t4s. I didn't know the 50 would outflow the 54. I've just heard 50 for 300, 57 for 400+, so I figured a 54 would be the perfect medium.

And to the guy that PM'd me with the 35R for 900: I appreciate the offer, but I'm pretty much broke and want to get other parts of this build done before I buy another turbo.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm looking for high 11's with my EX coupe and 330whp.

You can run mid 12's with 230whp like Beerbongskicksass (proper traction setup, slicks, mount inserts, tuning, etc. etc.), or you can make 400whp and run 12's from all the traction you won't have.

Everyones Hero

Yeah, I'm looking to take at least 2 seconds off of my current time of 13.7.

Since gas prices are starting to skyrocket again I think I'm going to invest in a bike and put the sleeved block on hold.

I might go with the eagle rods and either weisco or CP pistons w/ a .020 overbore to make sure the cylinder is perfectly round. I'll take that setup to 300ish.

Then over the winter I'll get the block that's in the car sleeved. I'm also probably going to run the **** out of this little turbo just to see how far I can take it before I get something bigger.

I still wish there was something else I could use instead of Devcon or sleeving.

redzcstandardhatch

jeff evans made 460 whp on factory sleeves. talking to him at the filming of the pinks episode with the full race civic, he said he thinks they would be fine to over 500 whp.

a safe, conservative, NO DETONATION tune would put you at a driveable 400 whp, but if you can afford sleeves, i'm not going to tell you not to get them.

i'm never sleeving a d16. blocks cost about 50 bucks on average.

i did rods and pistons, and might do a head later. looking for about 300 stock a6 head.

right now i'm running almost 20 psi into it, and daily driving it. its the fastest car i've ever ridden in (from a roll). hard to hook up, i dont have slicks.

Everyones Hero

Thanks redzc. I think I'm going to go w/ the internals and take it to 300whp. See how I like it, then when I get bored I'll probably start looking for more.

Is it usually the end of the line for the pistons/rods when the sleeves go out? Say I have forged internals and I blow my sleeves, will I be able to reuse those pistons/rods in another block or will I have to buy new pistons/rods.

redzcstandardhatch

from the blown-engine threads i've seen, usually if the sleeve went, it was from detonation, and the piston is owned too.

rods, they can usually be re-used, it takes a lot to hurt them.

i gaurantee you'd LOVE your car at 300 whp. the biggest thing i struggled with was figuring out what would be my level of power i'd be happy with.

my car isnt even tuned much yet, only a street tune, super safe, and i already love it, and its only at 16 psi ish. its probably only making about 250 whp, and its SUPER fun.

i just dont see the point at throwing money at sleeves for a d. they are SO cheap to buy. i bought 3 perfect running 100k d16a6's for 75 -100 bucks each. one is now built, once i boosted to about 11-12 psi for over a year, road course track days and all, and its still healthy as an ox...and the other i sold for a profit.

d16's rule. and they are cheap. thats pretty much why they rule, IMO

Everyones Hero

Are you running the stock cam?

I think I'm going to wait on the sleeves and just do internals for now. Right now there's a huge difference between 1500-2000 for internals, hottanking, honing, boring, oil/water pumps, ect and the 3300 for a fully built bottom end.

I'll take it to 300whp and then some.

redzcstandardhatch

right now, i'm running a fully stock d16a6 cam. a bigger cam is in the works, for sure.

thinking about slowing building a full head (port/polish/spring/retainers/cam/valves)

not sure though. that would cost almost as much at the bottom end did.

and its still just a d16! haha.