JgDsMr

Sold the audi and come aross a hatch I couldnt pass up.
Really want this thing to be my DD. My other ek is in a build process.
Im afraid it may be a little to much though.
Still fairly new to hondas/genral Engine preformance and want advice on how I can improve reliability and tips to keep this thing strong.
keep in mind I just bought this thing.

Car-1999 dx hatch
Blackwork full coilovers
rota wheels tires 205 50

motor and turbo setup
d16y8 rebuilt 10k ago and boost is fairly new
9:1 cp pistons and eagle rods
stock D seires head rebulit recently
apr studs and bolts
d trans with 6 puck

garret t3/t4 57 or 60 trim
log type mani
tail wg and bov
big godspeed intercooler

255 fuel pump
780 injectors
fuel rail
catchcan

prolly other stuff I dont know about as well.

tuned at a local shop
Tuned with neptune
310 whp at 17psi on E85(currently running)
boost buy gear 1st-10psi 2nd-12psi 3rd,4,5-17psi

just wanting advise to dd this thing. if possible thanks

skateboard_ej8

iTrader: (4)

Unless your gas pump is 50 miles away, I fail to see the problem hah

JgDsMr

2.5 miles from home. how often do you drive yours?

skateboard_ej8

iTrader: (4)

I beat on it everyday, from home to work and vice versa.

tron_

You'll be fine running that setup.

In terms of improving reliability, keep your AFRs in check, monitor your oil pressure, change your oil often. D15/D16 turbo builds can be very stout and it seems like you have the internals/tuning for reliability.

JgDsMr

Looks like I need a wideband and a gallon of royal purple. Ill grab a oil pressure gauge as well.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

in4pics

alwaysbroken

Silver?

blackeg

all good ideas.

if you have to drive in any sort of winter weather you are going to hate the 6 puck and suspension setup. you will have issues keeping traction, as soon as the clutch grabs its likely to spin the tires

JgDsMr

Yes silver and yes is was about 32 F when I started this morning. It takes a couple cranks to get it to start. It seems like it needs more fuel when starting as any other car when cold starting. But its not getting enough on the first couple cranks. Does this sound right?? Any idea to improve cold starting.(e85) I have no idea what plugs are in it, but I will check soon. I have a pair of nice spoon plug wires, would this help?? Why Im at it will those even work cause they were on my b-seiers but I dont see the problem??(not on this car now) And yes the clutch seems to be very inconsistent right now. I hope it gets warm quick!! Im lucky we are having the weather we are right now.(ks) Ill get some pics up soon. at work now. text 9135799887 for some quick pics. thanks. I have a feeling this car might be well known In my area as may be the previous owner.(No offence intended, seem like he knew his ****, alot more than me but that isnt saying much)

sde780

I DD a Competition 4 puck, it gets old in traffic but otherwise DD'able. I have no issues in the snow or otherwise.

JgDsMr

http://s1064.photobucket.com/albums/...3DIMG_0071.jpg
http://s1064.photobucket.com/albums/...3DIMG_0070.jpg
http://s1064.photobucket.com/albums/...3DIMG_0067.jpg

skateboard_ej8

iTrader: (4)

So your catchcan is connected to the turbo inlet?

sde780

It would provide a vacuum source to draw oil vapors from the crankcase, which is desirable. Keeps your oil cleaner

tron_

The vacuum source also prevents ring flutter by keeping a standard vacuum pressure on the rings. Its not 100% necessary by any means (having the vacuum source) but it is nice to have.

skateboard_ej8

iTrader: (4)

Would there be a possibility to suck in oil through there? I wanted to do this so I could recirculate the fumes and odor back into the motor but don't wanna risk having oil being fed into the intake charge.

JgDsMr

Don't notice any. No smell no smoke

sde780

The catch can's purpose is to separate the oil vapors, so unless it's full there shouldn't be any oil going into your intake.

I'm going to run mine the same way, just haven't had the motivation to make a catch can yet. Currently has a gutted PCV valve and hose going to the ground, same with the valve cover breather.

skateboard_ej8

iTrader: (4)

Hmm i see, just sayin..

I have my breather set up the same way.. looking to make one like the morroso one.

Op, i have cold morning start-up issues aswell with my car and i live in socal. Its been 45F these past couple weeks when i go to work in the morning and it usually takes a little longer than usual to start up. I guess e85 doesnt like cold.

I also run out of gas when my gas gauge hits the half way mark. I learned about that the hard way one morning going to work.

sde780

With the running out of gas issue, are you sure the Walboro 255 was installed correctly? I thought I read about someone else with that issue as well, thought I'd at least mention it.

OP looks like you have a solid setup, as long as you keep up with maintenance it should be fine for a DD

skateboard_ej8

iTrader: (4)

Then again, I myself did the walbro install. So who knows, maybe i did manage to **** that up lol If you have a link on how to mess up a fuel pump install, it would be greatly appreciated.

sde780

These are what I found, I remember I used my Walboro sock and mine works just fine, but I got my kit from a pretty reputable guy on here. Good luck.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/funny-problem-fuel-tank-after-installing-walbro-255lph-fuel-pump-695647/

skateboard_ej8

iTrader: (4)

Thx

blackeg

try not to run that tank low on gas with a walbro. usual rule of thumb is 1/4 tank. they generate more heat than an oem pump and really benefit from being submerged in gas to help dissipate the heat. ive got a friend you can ask about this, he always used to drive around with like 1/8 tank and within the year his fuel pump **** out and left him stranded on the highway in jersey

alwaysbroken

You bought this from my buddy. The motor use to be in my hatch. Great running motor and made great power. I actually made a post on in some time back.