VKSninja

sup all, I recently bought an ek 97, plan on getting a b16a realy soon, ive read heaps about this motor but most of the info is realy old, I want to build it ground up for daily drive, and occasional street drags but most important reliability, so ill want a turbo to kick in around the 3000 to 4000, a lot of people recommend a Precision 5557, is there anything better then this turbo since or is this still the shiz? my goal is 500whp on pump gas, I would like to keep the power steering and a/c,

toda spec b cams, what do you guys think about thease?
Int-295 dur. / 12.0mm lift
Exh-285 dur. / 12.0mm lift
Valve Springs to be used: Toda but Port Flow will work well too.
Description: My personal pick. These cams have the most midrange gains out of any B-Series
cam when they are tuned right. They have the same midrange gains of a Toda Spec C and the
same top end as the Toda Spec A. They are in tight competition with the Skunk2 Stage 2 and
JUN Type 3. Those care are more concentrated on top-end, peak power gains. The Toda B is more
concentrated on midrange power with the tradeoff of a little top-end power. Toda B’s have
great gains from 4500rpms all the way to 8800rpms. Power does start to dip off quickly at
around 8400rpms though. Due to the wild off-VTEC profiles, these cams do have a “bumpierâ€
idle than stock. I recommend using Toda cam gears with these cams

titanium valves? what brand is good? do I need it for my goals? would the j's racing ti full exhaust fit this conversion? b16 in an ek?

whats 57 trim or 60 trims?

bottom end? what brand is updated and proven? cranks? bearings? gaskets? pistons? sleeves?

sorry for all the questions guys but I would like to know whats the newest and most proven product out there,

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...2A%2A-1024174/

Turbo Tech Basic | Turbobygarrett

VKSninja

come on bro, the intake section is not even for turbo and the turbo section, i don't even understand any of that, I just pretty much bought 2 b16a2 motor I think that's just laying there waiting to be rebuild from ground up in an ek 97, somebody? anybody? money is not a problem, I just want the best shiz that's updated and proven,

surgestion for max whp on fuel gas, daily driven, casual street drags,

theshodan if you can see this, please recommend me something, apparently your the turbo guru

VKSninja

what is the updated version of the strongest and best brand that would last for the following stuff in 2014

pistons
crank
valves ti or ss
sleeves
anything that has to do with b16 motor

Schister66

https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...2A%2A-1024174/

Everyone is going to refer you to this. Read and research - nobody is going to spoon feed you the answers. We can help but that requires input on your end. Also, ditch this "which parts are the best" mentality and build a setup that is focused around a goal. If you have no goal, this is a pipe dream build (aka pointless and will be locked soon)

My advice:
Erase all previous turbo knowledge and suggestions from elsewhere and begin this search anew. You need to understand this on a basic level before drilling into cam lift/duration for the 'optimal' setup.
If you can't figure out steps 1-10, there's no point planning for step 57.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Also, pro-tip: Just because it comes from Japan doesn't make it better. Jun? J's? TODA? Are you literally just looking at the most expensive stuff you can find? There's nothing wrong with some Crower stage 2 cams (yes, their all motor cams) for your power goals, and for half the price. You think you want the best rods? Pauter X Beams. $1000. Or you could get some Eagles for a quarter the price, that will still support your goals.

You're pipedreaming, and until you get a set goal, a set intention, and a set budget, you won't be doing anything but pipedreaming.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

As already stated we don't spoon feed people here. If you don't understand the subject matter and why a certain part is used on a certain application for a certain purpose and power goal then none of what we tell you will make any sense to you.

Read the FAQs. They literally contain every subject regarding turbocharging.

Also you won't make 500hp on 93 with a 1.6l motor... There simply isn't enough displacement for the chemical limits of the fuel. Also if this is your first high power/turbo car then start with a lower hp goal. For a fwd car even 350hp is fast, especially for a street car. Anything over 350 and you will have serious and endless traction issues. You'll need a serious suspension setup and very big, very sticky, very expensive tires... Not to mention the driving skills required to pilot a car with that much power.

And since you seem to have no clue where to start or what parts to use I suggest you have a reputable, competent shop in your area handle any motor work and tuning. If you've never built a motor there's a very steep learning curve that can be very expensive if you don't know what you're doing. Not to mention the specialty tools required and the knowledge required... The kind of knowledge you can't read about on the internet and that can only be gained by hands on experience and first hand lessons from those who have been doing it forever.

So reevaluate your goals, your budget, and give yourself a reality check and then decide what you really want/need to do.

First step is to read the FAQs multiple times.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

As I've said before, read it, go eat dinner, read it again, have it recorded into a book on tape, go to sleep, read it with your breakfast, have it playing while you drive to work, read it again on your lunch break, and then, just maybe, you'll understand half of the information in the FAQ sticky.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

^exactly... We've spent years compiling information into an FAQ format for this very reason. It covers everything from the most basic of information to the most complex. We put info in there that would help you with the questions you're asking.. we onl left the most complex information out because it's way above most peoples comprehension and leads to more confusion than just excluding it and covering it on a case by case basis in individual threads.

If you aren't willing to take the time and read what we've laid out for you then not only can we not effectively help you but most will refuse to help you on the basis that you don't want to take the time to help yourself.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Ya know, there was a quote of mine that someone was going to add to the FAQ sticky, but I don't see it there...might have to dig that quote up and get you to slap it in, wantboost.

Schister66

I haven't put it into a Sticky - wasn't sure how honestly (the original thread wasn't that great IMO), but here it is.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I PM'd it to him I figured you'd just quote it in there somewhere, under the CR header.

VKSninja

I don't realy care where it comes from as long as it does what it suppose to do and last, that toda cam is part of a review from another Honda forum that I fought would suit me but iam not sure that's why I asked, and the js racing ti full exhaust, that was the only ti full kit I could find with a quick search and its in aust so the shipping should be cheap but its fairly pricey at 2gz, the evo 8 full ti is only like 8 900 if my memory is correct, from what ive read, eagle rods are spray and pray, most of them does the job tho, I pretty much just want to know what stuff has the highest % that does what it suppose to do and actualy doesn't break, that's what I mean by best, if those puala x h beams are proven ill would buy it, I rather spend abit more now then spend more if they do bend, I rather be confidents and have fun at the red line then allways be paranoid about my engine blowing up, this will be the first motor Ill build from bottom up, you gotta start somewhere, iam relieing on the forums and google to assemble it, tools is not a problem ive got plenty and if I don't ill buy it, even got a lathe and mill in my shed am I missing anything,

there is no builders in my state, there are also no tuners or I would be driving a maxxed out evo 8, a tuner only comes to my state probably once a year, they wouldn't be specificly Honda tuners, it will cost me around 2gz to truck it to another state and 2gz back, 1gz to fly down there for a week, and another for the tune, and I will only get it tune from the best Honda turner in the country, I think I should just put a few gz out and do a tuners course, iam realy considering it,

the goal is to build the engine my self, use at as a daily and drags those cocky v8 holden ******s, my budget is 10gz but I could go more if need but I reckon that should do it for parts, I live in a state that tempeture is like desert, 95 most of the time, I will sacrifice the a/c if I have to make things fit, I have own a standard wrx and loved every minute but the gear box are none to break so I sold it, all right 350whp it is then,

I fought forums are here to help people, sure I could google up a b16 build for street and drags, sure I could copy the build but its probably 5 10 years old and is it suitable for what iam doing, i don't know, how long did the motor last for, I don't know, what broke, I don't know, its 2014 I just want to know what stuff is proven to last, you guys have probably been here for years, you would of came across topics and build all the time, you would know what brand is good or are more prone to breaking over others,

and please don't nibble at me with thease simple minded petty insults, everybody has dreams, didn't you when you first bought that vtec?

I wont bother you guys anymore with questions, if you do see me start a topic just don't open it, well if I don't get banned anyway

VKSninja

oh yea that turbo 101 by garret link doesn't work

HiProfile

FYI the reason we don't spoon feed is because people ask this EXACT SAME QUESTION on a daily basis. It appears you are reading the most unqualified, outdated, and JDM-fanboi reviews possible. You at least have some info and have done some searching, so I'll help a bit.

There are probably more Eagle rods running 3x stock power levels than all other rods for Hondas combined, so they are far from "spray and pray". Just have your machine shop to check for roundness like you would any other rod. FYI I've seen every brand part blow up from user error (tuning), and rarely will the person admit to it. It's always the rod's fault for bending not the hydrolocked motor, and always the rod's fault for spun bearings not the basemap with zero timing retard detonating like crazy.

As far as turbo goes, DO NOT go Precision if you want "proven to last". They make power, but are far from proven to last. Go with a Garrett 57trim or GT30R if you want a long-lasting 400whp on 94RON pump gas or T3/T67 or GT35R if you need more power. If you insist on changing the cams, ITR cams will make more than enough power with the right turbo but last a very long time. After all that work your block will be the weakest link. I'd suggest CSS'ing your block if you're in the USA or dry sleeves if you can't find anyone who's done sleeves in your area. The other option that will help you make power and still last a long time would be an SS InlinePro manifold. They can be made to keep AC but have proven to flow enough for >500whp.

BTW it is helpful if you put your location in your forum profile. Most of the people here are from the USA, so certain parts dirt cheap or expensive for us may be priced the opposite for you.

Schister66

So true - Dont take people's **** talking too seriously. We see a lot of dreamers, not a lot of do-ers and we're all a bit jaded from it

VKSninja

Thank you very much ypur a legend. Now at least I have a starting point to research the shiz out of them parts you mention. I allways do my research. Ill only ask question if I dont realy understand or just to confirm it.

It is completely understandable from your point of view. To let you guys know iam for real here are some pictures. Bought the b16 red top yesterday. Blue top the day befor

http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa471/VietDaNinja/Mobile%20Uploads/20141011_122111.jpg

http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa471/VietDaNinja/Mobile%20Uploads/20141014_183748.jpg

Schister66

Your links didnt work - but these do

Engine Pic

Car Pic

VKSninja

Forgot to mention that iam from australia. I buy most parts for bike atv and car from the usa. Its still alot cheaper then aus even with freight.

Thanks for fixing the pictures

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Shipping stuff out of Australia is robbery... I was quoted almost 300us to ship a 15lb bellhousing that would fit in a 24x24x24 box.

mozzandherb

iTrader: (3)

Interested in knowing more about this

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

From the experience of friends, their QA has gone to **** recently. They used to make reliable units. Now, they're great for a short period of time, before they **** on you.

VKSninja

yea australia is the the biggest rip off, dont even bother looking at anything from here, where do you guys buy all your cheap honda stuff from? i want to try and get all the stuff at 1 place to save me on shipping aswell,