Dualwielding

I've been around the site awhile and around Hondas all my life I'm not much of a poster, normally I find awnsers without asking questions but im looking for a bit more specific advice.

I recently decided to build my 1st Honda "keeper" I've had low boost old school fmu setups in the past but never anything I planed on running more than 7 psi on and never a car that was dynoed.

I want an 11.75 second street car with ac (I live in San Antonio) ac is mandatory. In the interest of weight and nostalgia I found a 1988 CRX HF (my 1st nice Honda was a CRX before that I had a pair of 1986 Civic Si's). I've seen many LS turbo cars push 400hp and I don't imagine that much HP is needed for my little project so for now I'm content to keep the car non VTEC.

My questions:

I have chosen a goautoworks street turbo kit. 2.5 inch down pipe with an inline pro cast log manifold. The car will run on hondata s300 v3 and I've purchased RC 750 injectors my debate is between the Turbonetics Super 60 .63 and the Turbonetics T3/TO4b .63 and pump gas vs e85.

I know the Super 60 is rated to 325hp or so but I love the throttle response I'm wondering if e85 will allow more power from this turbo?

I know the T3/TO4b will support the power needed on 93 octane. Will it be too much turbo and prove too laggy? Will e85 spool this turbo faster?

Lastly will my injectors and a walbro 255 support e85 in one or both of these applications? My hunch is I may need to go with an aem 320 but in my doubt I come to you all.

Thanks in advance
Just an old school guy

LightningTeg

I'll let Shodan answer the turbo question.

93 should be fine. No need to go E85, but if you did you'd be limited to about 350-400 depending.

Dualwielding

Thank you for the speedy response. Is that 350 cap because of the injectors or the fuel pump?

LightningTeg

Injectors. Fuel pump is good for 450-500 or so with bigger injectors.

ls joker

Is there a reason why you wanted a 2.5 inch dowpipe over a 3 inch dowpioe

2kdrift

most likely to keep ac, my AC kit utilizes a 2.5" flared to 3" just after ac compressor

Dualwielding

Yes its for the AC. Have to use an innovative tractionbar for clearance even with the 2.5 inch downpipe

2kdrift

your gonna want a log manifold or possible the "miniram" ram horn manifold + ac is a bitch for multiple reasons

ls joker

Is it atleast flared to 3 inch

Dualwielding

as noted above, its an in line pro log manifold.

It is not, I have no plans of 400 hp. Unless there is reason to believe 350hp with a streetable powerband is not practical without a 3 inch flare; I see no reason to over size the exhaust.

AC is as important as any other component of this car, and being that this is all in the CRX bay is much tighter than an Integra's bay.

B and B

iTrader: (3)

Why LS, you already have that platform?
Don't need boost to go 11.75 in a CRX.
We all love boost, tho....what about D series?
Much simpler and more room.

Geis

3inch exhaust will give a better powerband overall, you're sacrificing mid and top end with the 2.5.

LightningTeg

He already said room is an issue and 2.5" is what he wants lol. 2.5" will work fine.

Geis

I pointed it out because he could still fit a 3in catback, and was referring to 3in as an oversized exhaust

LightningTeg

True

VegaS10

I have the exact same kit you mentioned. I have the turbonetics .63 option instead of the super 60. Running Crower stage 4 all motor cams and a forged bottom end, I'm right at 380hp/300tq on 93.

The innovative traction bar is a must have due to clearance. My ef hatch doesn't have AC, so I opted for the integrated dumptube and the 2.5 exhaust. Looking back on it now, I just don't see how it is even possible to retain AC in an ef hatch with this kit.

Dualwielding

Thank you for speaking up! do you have a dyno print out and/or a 1/4 mile slip?

VegaS10

I've posted it in the LS/T page somewhere back in late 2015.

I haven't taken it to the strip or anything, as it's more of a fun weekend car. Word of warning, be prepared do do a lot of cutting and swearing...

VegaS10

https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct.../#post50527901

Mine is post #32066 of this thread.

Dualwielding

What did you have to cut? did you replace the radiator and fan? any overheating issues? is the motor sleeved or pistons rods and head only?

VegaS10

Bumper support had to be cut...a lot. Like...seriously....a lot.

Upgraded to the Skunk2 ef radiator (for space) with a huge Spal fan as a pusher. Had to cut a bit up top to get it to fit. If I had gone with a smaller fan it wouldn't have been necessary, but I wanted to just do it once.

The EF is a very cramped bay, and the opening up front doesn't allow a lot of room for air to pass. The intercooler hogs a lot of that real estate, so that's the reason for the fan. I tried smaller fans as pullers and they weren't cutting it. Put the large Spal in, no issues.

Block is not sleeved, just as described in the post.

Dualwielding

update: I got a good deal on a car id rather build so the CRX is gone, and The Build goes on with a 92 hatch. Instead of the all stock b18a1 I had in the EF, the EG is running a JDM B18C GSR motor all the same turbo specs. Greg @ GoAutoworks was easy to deal with making all the changes. I'm hoping I can start breaking in the CC 6 puck spung stage 4 clutch by Friday.

Just read up and realized how long ago i started this thread. I didn't go with the same turbo specs. I ended up with the journal bearing GT28 goal hp is 310-330 whp but with a faster spool hopefully im still undecided on 93 OCT or E85. my understanding is that e85 would be safer I just dont want to run out of fuel. 750cc, 255lph, GE rail, Blox FPR, s300.... any insight on fuel would be awesome.

1988dxsedan

iTrader: (2)

Why all that clutch for 300hp? A bit overkill.

Schister66

I agree. A CC sprung Stg 3 would be more than enough and is a better DD choice IMO. I ran one on a ~400whp GSR as my daily for 2+ years before selling the car

But since you'll be 'breaking it in by Friday', I assume we're past the point of offering advice on that one

Dualwielding

​yeah clutch is on the car, i may at some point build the bottom end and if so ill up the boost its not a "plan" per say but since I was buying a new clutch anyway, for even money I figured it was wise to get one that would be forward compatible.