D16A6Turbo

use larger gauge wire for the larger amp draw it uses. Is it necessary to install a relay and larger wire. I need help on how to do this and as to how to wire up the relay, where to get the power, and what kind of relay to get. If you have pics, info, anything on the install of this pump and wiring please let me know...

Or, can you just install the pump w/ out altering anything...is it just a direct replacement...I'm talking about the kit that is meant for the 88-91 civic/crx's...

thanks

camp1320.com

you gotta take down the damn fuel tank.. .. why didnt they make it like the EG/EK where you can take the pump from the top... anyways no you dont need to change the wires.. the stock one works fine

D16A6Turbo

no need to install a relay either?

camp1320.com

nope....

NosajCivic

Randy's notes on the Walbro 255LPH install into the Civic / CRX:
"Here are some notes or tips I had when installing the Walbro 255lt/hr pump on my 88 CRX Si."
-- Randy (randygaz@attbi.com)

Dropping the tank:
1. Drain the gas. Don't smoke or use a gas/kerosene heater. Duh!
2. You will need to buy two new J-bolts from Honda. The originals will not be reusable. Get the nuts from a
hardware store, Honda wants $1 each.
3. The hoses may be fragile so be prepared to run and get replacements. I had to cut only one and it was a
standard fuel line size.
4. The pain: the tank connects to the hardline via a flexible line that mounts to the frame rail. This will be
rusted to hell. Be sure to hold the bracket while turning the fitting. The bracket will collapse easily. If
you decide to cut the flexible hose, it is not cheap and is a dealer part only. I ended up cutting it, replacing
it with AN6 hose and a Solex fitting at the tank. I used a compression fitting on the hardline after I
sanded all the powder coating off the link. It sealed to 100psi no problem.

Pump install:
1. Remove the pump assembly from the tank. On the bench remove wiring and the old pump. Now, you can
wire it the same way, but be aware that the stock pump never draws more than 5 amps and is wired for that.
The 255 pump can easily draw 15A, so I recommend you do not wire it using the existing wire. Instead drill a
hole in the top of the assembly and pull the wires out the top. Seal the hole with gas tank sealer putty.
2. The pump will rest between the new rubber base provided with the pump and the hose above it. Do not
zip-tie the pump to the support frame, unless you like a lot of buzzing noise. Let it be supported by the hose
and base. It won't go anywhere.
3. Connect the sock and make sure it is on good. Use the old pump and sock to make sure the depth is right.
Mine required no bending of the bracket to reach the same depth.
4. Put assembly back into tank.

Wiring:
1. OK, so the new pump is going to draw some serious amps. You will need to wire a bigger gauge to the pump
and use a relay or you will smoke your main relay.
2. Extend the pump-on hot wire from the harness that used to go to the pump and the two wires from the pump.
Leave the ground connected to the top of the pump assembly.
3. Drill a hole in the body so you can work in the back of the hatch. I drilled just to the driver's side of the two
screw mounts for the vertical divider.
4. Run the pump hot and the pump-on hot through the hole (with a bushing or other anti-chafing method).
Attach a ring terminal to the pump ground and bolt to the frame after sanding the terminal junction.
5. Mount a 30A relay close to the hole. I found there is a gap between the compartment and the vertical
divider that a relay will fit in fine.
6. Put the pump hot on one side of the contacts and the pump-on hot on one side of the coil. Ground the other
side of the coil with a nearby bolt.
7. Run a fused hot from the battery to the other side of the contact. Use a nice 10Ga. Wire and a 30A fuse. The
fuse should be within 7 inches of the battery and sealed from the environment.

Too much fuel pressure:
1. Check your base fuel pressure with the vacuum line disconnected from the FPR. If it is 35-38 then apply the
vacuum line and verify it goes down to about 28 psi. If this does not happen you must drill a bypass in the
fpr. I also recommend a B&M fuel pressure riser for full adjustability.
2. Start by drilling a 0.035" hole in the FPR ala TOO's method http://www.theoldone.com; and repeat step 1. If it
is still too high, then drill it to 0.040" and repeat and so on and so forth. I ended up with a 0.046875"hole and
I can adjust my pressure via a B&M riser ($55 from most places).

Final notes:
1. I don't notice the Walbro at all. The buzz is very quiet and when I have a full interior I can't hear it at all.
2. I ordered mine through http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com and they supplied an integra install kit. This
extra stand-off bushing made all the difference, but I had a few extra parts.
3. I decided to buffer the relay by RTV'ing it to the body after I bolted it down. This will help prevent it from
bouncing around too much.
4. I can disable the fuel system by pulling one wire off that relay. Neat and tidy.
5. I have no problem with drained system start-up. I wait one second before cranking and the Walbro fills the
system in under a second.
6. Solder every connection if you can. Crimp only when you have to.
7. Watch where you drill.

Blown90hatcH

Nice write up, too bad most of it isnt needed. You dont need to increase to a larger wire or add a relay. I have done too many pumps into efs and I have had zero problems. I would suggest maybe cutting a hole in the flooor in the rear to access the pump if your crx/civic is kinda a beater.

D16A6Turbo

Do you know if the 255 pump made for crx/civic's is a direct drop in or does all that modification to the fuel lines have to happen...in other words, is it like replacing a stock pump...

Blown90hatcH

It is very similar to replacing the stock pump. I have installed....10+ walboro 255 pumps into efs and the only thing you need to do, is change the wire connectors. The walboro and others, require a male and female connector to slide over the female and male contacts on the 255 pump. So basically, when you drop the tank and remove the old pump, cut off the end of the wires....remember which is which....look at the 255 pump and verify which has the male and female end.....crimp that one on the stock wires...and plug them onto the pump.

internet ay

does anyone know if this is the same procedure for the 90-93 integras?

shortyz

why not just put an inline in??


[Modified by shortyz, 6:03 PM 12/21/2002]

0project dc2

iTrader: (1)

what a pain in the *** !!!

BoostedED9

just like everyone said, you shouldnt have to rewire for a walbro, but if you use a supra tt pump like i did i would suggest doing so b/c my stock ones were getting very very hot. i ended up changing them and putting in a relay

TheShocker

All I did was change the connectors and it was good to go. I didnt even fully drop the tank, i just let it sit at an angle. Make sure the tank is close to empty or it's hard to get back up. And I was able to reuse my straps too.

Blown90hatcH

Yeah, no need to drop it all the way. Just lower the rear and you are set. Straps should be reusable.

D16A6Turbo

That's exactly what I run right now w/ 12psi / 450's / in-line and it works fine...If I can verify 15-16psi / 550's / in-line / stock pump will work, I will have no need for a 255...

Do you guys remember the white 4door EF in turbo mag, he ran 20+psi of boost w/ 2 MSD in-lines...a while back I contacted RC Engineering about that and was told by a tech that the 2nd in-line really doesn't do much and that one actually supplies a good volume of fuel coupled w/ the stock in-tank...If I find that an in-line is all I need to get 15-16psi of boost I won't be dropping the tank anytime soon...done it two too many times....

JDTRacing.com

Bringing back this post from the dead. Now that it is 20 years later, how many of you guys would recommend running a Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump in a 1993 Honda Civic with stock wiring?

You will never ever get the full potential of the fuel pump running it with factory wiring. You will eventually burn up the factory relay or worse destroy the fuel pump.

For a Walbro 255lph I would recommend rewiring with the following.
10 gauge power wire coming from the battery with a 30 amp inline fuse connecting to a 30/40 amp relay & a 10 gauge ground wire. Anything larger than a 350lph I would go with 8 Gauge for the Power and Ground.

It's crazy how much false information or bad advice is out there in relation to this topic. I sell thousands of fuel pumps and the stories I have heard of how people have tried to wire up fuel pumps would blow your mind. Its insane. Customers trying to run Dual 525lph Fuel Pumps on factory wiring and they wonder why it won't run and then fight with me telling me I am wrong for telling them they need to wire each one separately each on its own relay and power. They say "Well BoostedMOFO on this forum installed it just like this and it worked fine" Screaming at me because I tell them there is "It worked for 3 minutes" and then there is "Its installed properly and will continue to work for years to come"

What are your thoughts on this topic?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

hmm.. Not sure. Ran over 20 years on stock wiring with my DC2 turbo and 255lph G42 high volume pump making 535whp on C16 and still have the car. will probably upgrade the pump to 340lph on the newer build for 2022. Depending upon quality of wiring may keep it stock still !

So , nope. knock on wood no issues yet...:-)

ls joker

Im sure you know this with your experience. But look out for 340lph pumps with low pressure release valves. Specially like the aeromotive sleath 340. Avoid what happened to me. By using that 340 pump and goining over 20psi.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I heard about those.. I own the Deutchwerks one. What information do you have about that one?

ls joker

The two people i know who ran those, werent maxing the fuel system. They had no complaints. So nothing beneficial for you. When i buy pumps now, i look to see if its able to run 80-100 pressure before it relieves or car leans out.