Veris

2 or 3 years. 2 months is a long time. Did they give you a eta? Did you pay up front?

YewllowDA

iTrader: (1)

Yeah i payed right after I got the work order, which was 2 weeks after theyve recieved the supercharger. The work order was very detailed that shows how professional they are. But after they received the payment, I havent heard since until I decided to call, left a message. So i called again sometime last month and they said the rotors are being coated and that there will be some finishing on the casing etc... I decided to call back again (2 weeks) ago and finally they answered, they said itll be shipped on a Monday. Well, it didnt happen (theyve been delayed from court matters). So I just waited again until last Friday when i called again saying that its in final assembly. Yesterday, I received a call from the first time. They ask me if it was okay for them to ship it today (Tuesday) because theyre gonna do a leak test overnight? and Im like yes it is OK...as long as everything is done right and that it will be shipped and I will receive a tracking number.......

So yeah I am looking forward on getting my charger back very soon.....

Veris

Sounds like you'll be getting it back soon. Good to hear.

slikzend

on your guy's set up how much of an angle is your idler pulley at? or should it not be at any of angle from its original position? (pulley between charger and alternator) Also how do you keep your belts from slipping? i've noticed my charger to alternator pulley slid off one tooth off the charger pulley... and where do you buy your belts other than moss motorsports? any local shops? part numbers for the belts? thanks in advance!

Big ups to Spawne32 for helping me out through the little bs bro thanks again, car is running strong now, haven't tuned it since I'm have some cams and valvetrain coming in and don't feel like dropping $200 plus a tune multiple times.

CW-ITR

iTrader: (11)

Anyone know the spec on the Race LHT heat exchanger water pump? I need to know the flow rate. Thanks.

GOOCH-JDM-ITR

Somebody posted this for me about 10 pages back - I forgot who but here it is:

GOOCH-JDM-ITR

Well I sent my charger back to Steigemeier for inspection, hope they find everything was ok and dont charge me.

Anyways I'm looking for a 4rib - 3.8 pulley. Anyone know where I can find one?

Also I think I need an oil cooler to keep the heat in a check, can anyone suggest one? Whats everyone using for vented valve cover catch cans?

CW-ITR

iTrader: (11)

Thanks so much for the link

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

pics of the ported supercharger we did this weekend

CX-Adam

FYI that PDF came from a link on the Frozen Boost site, if you're looking to buy the pump alone.

Link -->Frozen Boost

CX-Adam

On the same note of buying an individual pump and heat exchanger to make your own kit, how's the Bosch water pump wired?

For the people using the water pump, did you find a constant 12V source to wire the pump to? Is the pump supposed to run at all times or is there a temperature switch that controls it?

I'm thinking of buying all necessary components from Frozen Boost. The heat exchanger will likely require modifications to have mounting tabs in the correct location but I know of a tig-welder that I could have do that for me.

Any help would be appreciated.

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

the pump should run at all times when the engine is running
I got my power from the Ign on and thru a realy
with the heat exchanger its all about surface area not thickness

Brad

I bought the intercooler kit from magnacharger(no intercooler) and heat exchanger from ebay. The kit from magnacharger comes with a wiring harness with relay for an easier install. It has a weatherproof plug for the pump which is nice. It also comes with a small reservoir and it's still cheaper than the lht kit.

GOOCH-JDM-ITR

I hooked my pump up to a constant 12v with a switch to turn off for extended drives, I also have an indicator light to let me know when the pump is switched on. The pump should be able to run for a very long time, my tuner recommended putting it on the hobbs switch so that when the car is in boost the pump automatically kicks in. I also used the washer tank as my reservoir..pics herehttps://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/goochs-jdm-b18c-w-jrsc-lht-build-issue-thread-3071386/

e-eg6

Sorry to quote an old post but what do you think of the ORC 309 clutch? I'm shooting for a similar setup and one has come up locally for a good price. Be nice to have some insight before I put a deposit on it..

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

I have the ORC 309D the D in the part number is for silent type
but i must say ive used many clutches from organic to tripple carbon and ceramic and i find it for the job is brilliant
the ORC 309D is smooth enough your granny could drive it but agresive enough you can beat on it all day and it will call you a wimp
my thoughts
smooth , no shutter like a puk clutch, enough feather to use and control on the street
agresive clamping force for track or drag ,
Im useing a S2000 MC stock slave and teflon braide from MC to SL pedal is almost lighter than stock with about 2.5" rock point
I never use more than 25% pedal travel to shift ( tap the pedal with my toes )

OH and if its the non silent type its only noisey when you foots on the clutch when sitting still ( most noisey like a bad desiel )
does make a little noise when driveing but again only for the split second your foot is on the clutch

hope that was enough insite
install tip is high quality graphite teflon grease on the spline and thrust slide and lots of it

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

its better left on at all times when the engine is on so as to keep your intake cool at all times and avoid any possible heat soak
also if its off the water thats near any heat sorce will heat soak and work against you
ie: Your inlet manifold and all the pipeing in the bay
"your also running the smaller tube and manifold fittings, reducing the flowrate" my setup is all -12AN fittings and braid line inclusive

remmber a cool intake wether In or Out of boost is better for fuel economy and power

HatchbackSqueegee

Selling all my JRSC stuff on ebay, custom CAI, LHT map sensor, 460cc injectors and more check it out!

Ebay link to JRSC parts!

DFW

iTrader: (1)

Anyone have info/data on LHT's aftercooler kit for K-Series? I can't get a hold of them and I can't find anything on it, other than these pictures with lamina cores

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

to contact John at LHT best to call in the morning at the start of the day
thats when he answers the most

90Rexx

Hey guys just curious how many of you are running your JRSC with rotors that are stripped down with no teflon? What downsides are there to running it like this? The teflon was in bad shape so its been all stripped to bare metal. No damage on the housing or rotors though which is good!

also, can someone point me in the direction of where I can see how people are porting the blower unit and the elbow? Like where to remove material etc.

bigpunn421

how do you guys tighten the nut to lock the bolt in this pic?

i keep poping my hood and finding the s/c belt tensioner loose. i would hate for that to fall out like you mentioned speed phreak


edit. also fixed my ride. had to buy a bolt from moss motors.

e-eg6

Brilliant thats exactly what I wanted to hear mate! I'm pretty sure its the non silent type but im not too worried as the car wont be driven daily anyway. I was just worried about drive ability. I didnt want something too aggressive for the street. Thanks for the tip!

Btw have you a build up thread?

bigpunn421

right above this someone ports a blower. same page.


you get the most performance by opening up the inlet of the blower. so try to get biggest throttle body you can and port match it. about 68mm is biggest without adding material i think

also open up the s/c inlet as much as you can. port the s tube too.

the runners to the head would be better ported too.

dont forget to polish to a shine. the smoother the better.

you can open up the v a bit. but dont go too much or youll runin the blower housing. its better to open the bigger part of the v shape.

endyne or steigmester would know alot more abnout porting. try to contact them

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

Glad i could help out ...let me know what you think after install.
build up thread is comming just been lazy and i lost over 3600 photos 1 of my HDD took a major dump, so trying to find what i have for the build thread plus new stuff

for details on porting have a look at Spawnes build thread i put up details there and if you need fiurther help just ask

The best method ive found is to use a nylock nut on it the dont come loose with vibration