rmcdaniels

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caranjo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just being doing some more research. How much of an issue is wheelspin say at 8psi?? I don't have LSD

Also, is -1e/+4i what most people do on the B16a or at least start of when tuning? I've seen on a 88-91 B16 mk2 CRX a guy went with -4e/+2i. Thats the complete opposite for the intake and exhaust cams. I have a JDM b16a2 1992 Del Sol (mk3 CRX).Modified by caranjo at 2:51 PM 4/28/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had wheelspin problems before I got my LSD, especially exiting a turn it would just spin the inside wheel. In a straight line it was not too bad.

As far as the cam gear tuning goes, you want to decrease your overlap, so you will want some combination of intake advance and exhaust retard. The only way to find out what works for your engine is on a dyno. I started with the intake cam, advancing it one degree at a time, then moved to the exhaust cam.

Modified by caranjo at 2:51 PM 4/28/2005[/QUOTE]


Modified by rmcdaniels at 12:25 AM 4/30/2005

Crazysol

My set-up

Honda Del Sol

SOHC ZC VTEC swap. Blew my d16z6 (getting it built right now)
JRSC 6psi
dc header
stock exhaust
bigger fuel pump
Nx wet kit 80 shot
lsd tranny

Tad

stock d15b vtec longblock
JRSC, 3.4" nose pulley & stock d15b crank..
makes 9lbs all the way up until 8k where it climbs up to like 9.8lbs..

makes 177whp 135wtq

really rips on the lowend, but top speed runs could use improvement..
it's wierd really, it gets up to 100lightning quick, but then I don't know if it will pullpast 140.. maybe 150??

And I saw almost 160(was still pullin when i let off) when I was at 6psi on my last d15b motor,
might have been a very slight downhill though, heh..

**** this one pulls up to 100 REAL ******* fast though...
I think it could run 13's with a good driver, or a bad driver(me)+slicks

NOTE: I have the stock header and a funky exhaust.. so I think thats why the top end doesnt pull quite as hard.

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
One thing that made a huge difference with my JRSC setup was decreasing the valve overlap. I used some Skunk2 cam gears to adjust it a bit. Four degrees of exhaust cam retard netted me about 20WHP across most of my RPM range, also smoothed out my torque line quite a bit. Just make sure you only do it on a dyno, every setup reacts differently to cam adjustment. Nothing I did on the intake cam made a difference on my setup</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, seems like the moment my vtec opens up,
my engine just begins to loose torque

I'm wondering if theres a way to disable vtec without going into limpmode or something.. curious as to what would happen..
cuz the d15b vtec cam is much more aggressive than your usual sohc vtec cam..

HYREV2NR

A friend of mind has a 95 hatch w/ a JDM GSR swap, Kamikaze header w/ 2.5" (no cat) Apex N1 C/B. Hondata S200 w/ 10 PSI of boost made 250 WHP & 180 TQ. The thing about this set up is his SC on a 40 degree day his intake temps climbed to 190 degrees! He modified the SC & on an 80 degree day the temps never got above above 135. He has also done this mod to my SC & I can't wait to get it tuned.

rmcdaniels

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HYREV2NR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A friend of mind has a 95 hatch w/ a JDM GSR swap, Kamikaze header w/ 2.5" (no cat) Apex N1 C/B. Hondata S200 w/ 10 PSI of boost made 250 WHP & 180 TQ. The thing about this set up is his SC on a 40 degree day his intake temps climbed to 190 degrees! He modified the SC & on an 80 degree day the temps never got above above 135. He has also done this mod to my SC & I can't wait to get it tuned.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What was done to it? Who did the work?

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What was done to it? Who did the work?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i wana know too

caranjo

does a Hondata IM gasket really reduce air intake temperature and worth the money?

HYREV2NR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caranjo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
does a Hondata IM gasket really reduce air intake temperature and worth the money?</TD></TR></TABLE>Yes!

HYREV2NR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What was done to it? Who did the work?</TD></TR></TABLE>It was a friend of mine here in Montgomery Al. I'll explain it best I can. If U'v ever heard of ENDYN they offer the same mod for 1400 bucks. Thats a bit rediculas in my opinion but anyway, this guy dismantles the SC & extensively ports the S tube & the charger housing. It takes him about 17 to 20 hours of work to do the mod. Luckely if the bearings need replacing they can be puchased localy & are inexpensive. My SC was a first for him to try & when I put it on my R, even with using just a VAFC the difference is quite staggering. I'm about to get my Hondata & make the puzzle all fit together. Oh by the way, if noise bothers U I wouldn't do this cause when U wind it up @ high RPM's it screams like crazy! If U guys are really intersted in doing this let me know & I'll talk to him. This guy is 40 years old & extreemly maticulas about what he does! He doesn't do shotty crappy work & is completely trustworthy! If he's willing to do it the good part is he only wants between 350 & 450 bucks to make it happen. Sounds too good to be true but it's not. If U'v ever heard of Jim @ Motorvations in Trussville AL., He tuned this guys car on the local Dyno. I was right there & to see the intake temps drop like that was quite amazing. My thing is even if it doesn't make any more power (which it does) it's nice to know U have a cooler intake charge temp! He is also in the process of building an aftercooler for the Jackson setup that will have twice yes twice the cooling affect of the LHT setup but thats still down the road. Sorry for the lengthy post guys but thanks for asking about the mod. Can't wiat to get my R on the dyno w/ this new SC!

rmcdaniels

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HYREV2NR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It was a friend of mine here in Montgomery Al. I'll explain it best I can. If U'v ever heard of ENDYN they offer the same mod for 1400 bucks. Thats a bit rediculas in my opinion but anyway, this guy dismantles the SC & extensively ports the S tube & the charger housing. It takes him about 17 to 20 hours of work to do the mod. Luckely if the bearings need replacing they can be puchased localy & are inexpensive. My SC was a first for him to try & when I put it on my R, even with using just a VAFC the difference is quite staggering. I'm about to get my Hondata & make the puzzle all fit together. Oh by the way, if noise bothers U I wouldn't do this cause when U wind it up @ high RPM's it screams like crazy! If U guys are really intersted in doing this let me know & I'll talk to him. This guy is 40 years old & extreemly maticulas about what he does! He doesn't do shotty crappy work & is completely trustworthy! If he's willing to do it the good part is he only wants between 350 & 450 bucks to make it happen. Sounds too good to be true but it's not. If U'v ever heard of Jim @ Motorvations in Trussville AL., He tuned this guys car on the local Dyno. I was right there & to see the intake temps drop like that was quite amazing. My thing is even if it doesn't make any more power (which it does) it's nice to know U have a cooler intake charge temp! He is also in the process of building an aftercooler for the Jackson setup that will have twice yes twice the cooling affect of the LHT setup but thats still down the road. Sorry for the lengthy post guys but thanks for asking about the mod. Can't wiat to get my R on the dyno w/ this new SC! </TD></TR></TABLE>


I'd be interested in that. My JRSC is currently sitting on my bench waiting on my engine to get built, so I could pack it in a box and send it right over. Please e-mail me his phone # and I'll give him a call. My e-mail address is in my profile. Thanks.

caranjo

I think his name is JRCivic over on hostboard.com

rmcdaniels

Thanks, I know who that is.

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caranjo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does a Hondata IM gasket really reduce air intake temperature and worth the money?</TD></TR></TABLE>

ah i'm sure i'ts better than a paper gasket,
and i got mine for 30bux...

so if you have the IM off, definetely dont stick another paper gasket on there,

not to mention the insulating gaskets are reuseable,
so no more scraping off glued on paper gaskets! that is probably one of the worst
things ever...

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HYREV2NR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It was a friend of mine here in Montgomery Al. I'll explain it best I can. If U'v ever heard of ENDYN they offer the same mod for 1400 bucks. Thats a bit rediculas in my opinion but anyway, this guy dismantles the SC & extensively ports the S tube & the charger housing. It takes him about 17 to 20 hours of work to do the mod. Luckely if the bearings need replacing they can be puchased localy & are inexpensive. My SC was a first for him to try & when I put it on my R, even with using just a VAFC the difference is quite staggering. I'm about to get my Hondata & make the puzzle all fit together. Oh by the way, if noise bothers U I wouldn't do this cause when U wind it up @ high RPM's it screams like crazy! If U guys are really intersted in doing this let me know & I'll talk to him. This guy is 40 years old & extreemly maticulas about what he does! He doesn't do shotty crappy work & is completely trustworthy! If he's willing to do it the good part is he only wants between 350 & 450 bucks to make it happen. Sounds too good to be true but it's not. If U'v ever heard of Jim @ Motorvations in Trussville AL., He tuned this guys car on the local Dyno. I was right there & to see the intake temps drop like that was quite amazing. My thing is even if it doesn't make any more power (which it does) it's nice to know U have a cooler intake charge temp! He is also in the process of building an aftercooler for the Jackson setup that will have twice yes twice the cooling affect of the LHT setup but thats still down the road. Sorry for the lengthy post guys but thanks for asking about the mod. Can't wiat to get my R on the dyno w/ this new SC! </TD></TR></TABLE>

ah so it's jim that does it, and its the same idea as endyns work..
thats cool.
I was actually thinking about doing mine myself

endyn has a good page explaining how/what needs to be done,
and it's mostly just going crazy with a grinder/metal file!
I would want to do more research on exactly material needs to be removed where though, the endyn page is helpful, but not specific enough, and I wouldnt want to **** up.

400 bux is a great deal though. but i doubt he's gonna take on 10 dudes from h/t who want him to do it, haha.

HYREV2NR

No it's not Jim that does the mod. The guys name is Jay. I talked to him today & he said he might be interested in doing it. Just remember he's an individual & not a shop. He said the only thing he's going to do the mod on is the B series kits cause the D kits are to hard to mod the S tubes.

sharkcohen

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as the cam gear tuning goes, you want to decrease your overlap, so you will want some combination of intake advance and exhaust retard. The only way to find out what works for your engine is on a dyno. I started with the intake cam, advancing it one degree at a time, then moved to the exhaust cam. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Retarding the exhaust and advancing the intake will increase overlap.

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HYREV2NR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No it's not Jim that does the mod. The guys name is Jay. I talked to him today & he said he might be interested in doing it. Just remember he's an individual & not a shop. He said the only thing he's going to do the mod on is the B series kits cause the D kits are to hard to mod the S tubes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, yeah the D stube is pretty ******* wild..
imo it needs to be replaced entirely.

but the rest of the blower kit could benifit from modding i'm sure.

HYREV2NR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Imo the S tube it needs to be replaced entirely.</TD></TR></TABLE>I don't see why U couldn't get a larger mandrel bent pipe & relocat the T/B&gt; Just remember, U also have to deat w/ the throttle cable.

rmcdaniels

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sharkcohen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Retarding the exhaust and advancing the intake will increase overlap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How do you figure? If you make the intake valves close sooner and the exhaust valves open later, there will be less time when they are both open (overlap).

sharkcohen

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you figure? If you make the intake valves close sooner and the exhaust valves open later, there will be less time when they are both open (overlap).</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wrong, the exhaust valve opens before the intake valve.

rmcdaniels

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sharkcohen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Wrong, the exhaust valve opens before the intake valve.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Doh! That's right, I had it backwards. So it's intake retard and exhaust advance. I guess it's a good thing I had a tuner who knows how 4-stroke engines work there when I did mine.

civiccrx21

check out http://www.LHTperformance.net located in Florida they make a custom intercooler for our blowers some pictures of how it was done

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HYREV2NR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't see why U couldn't get a larger mandrel bent pipe & relocat the T/B&gt; Just remember, U also have to deat w/ the throttle cable. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, actually I think you can buy a fabbed up one from endyn,
probly cost a grip though..

tcable shouldnt be that big of a deal, just get alonger one if needed?

sharkcohen

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civiccrx21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check out http://www.LHTperformance.net located in Florida they make a custom intercooler for our blowers some pictures of how it was done</TD></TR></TABLE>
Unfortunately not for the H22 kit

It's too bad they won't do something for the H22 kit, there are alot of people that would buy it.

There is a shop local to me that is very familiar with modding the H22 intake manifold. I may be coming into some money soon, if I do I'm going to work with them on coming up with an aftercooler solution.