rmcdaniels

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">GAAAHHH
links dont work! I wana see bad!

curve looks alot nicer than just turbo,
though I think you could probably squeeze more outta the low end, AND the top end, couldnt you?
How much boost is the JRSC running alone?
I know the faster you spin it/more boost, the quicker it builds boost as well..
since it's only going to run low down, might as well spin it at it's max (if it's not already).

and where does the turbo's charge air enter ?
does it go through the blower to get to the engine?
or does it enter where the bypass valve usually lets air through(like as if you had the belt off your charger or something) ?
If its the bypass, maybe you could bore that out for more flow, I know it's a very small opening.
if not, maybe route it directly to the intake mani? With some clever welding..

Just a thought</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll get more out of it both high and low, this was the first dyno visit. It desperately needs cam tuning. JRSC runs 12 or so alone, 3.8 blower pulley and JR oversized crank pulley. There's some clever welding and a bypass assembly with an analog feedback loop to control the sc-turbo transition. I need to work on the ducting and my bypass actuator is a complete piece of crap (custom made billet aluminum unit is on order, using jury rigged unit held together with zip-ties now), but it works better than I thought it would for a prototype. It's on my daily driver and I'm loving it. I really can't stress enough how smooth and controllable the boost is, I've run this engine with a JRSC and with a turbo, and this is the best of both worlds.

Tad

yeah it looks amazing man!

JDogg

yeah, i was pretty amazed how well it worked for the first go at it.

with a better actuator and some cam gear tuning we should be able to get back all the peak power and gain even more on the low end.

the supercharger decreased the spool time by about 1300rpms. turbo alone hit 20psi around 5800 rpms, this setup is at 20psi at about 4400-4500

boostedeghatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not much, It's a positive displacement pump, so if it's turning, then it's moving air. You said the bypass actuator (little box) was moving, so it's not stuck open. You know that it won't make boost unless it is under load (being driven), right? So it won't make boost just by revving it up out of gear.</TD></TR></TABLE>


i will Tee off the boost guage hose to the intake manifold instead and see what that does.

i don't hear the SC whining though.. should I ?

rmcdaniels

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedeghatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


i will Tee off the boost guage hose to the intake manifold instead and see what that does.

i don't hear the SC whining though.. should I ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You should hear it, do you see it spinning?

boostedeghatch

yeah.. the nose pulley is spinning.

the intake manifold is where i need to put the vacum line for the boost guage, correct? to the nipple in back of the manifold?

maybe i can't hear it cause my exhaust is too loud, especially when vtec kicks in.

so the belt being bigger from the nose pulley to the alt would have nothing to do with anything?

rmcdaniels

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedeghatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so the belt being bigger from the nose pulley to the alt would have nothing to do with anything?


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not as long as you can tighten it.

boostedeghatch

yeah.. it can be tighten, but not without moving the idler pulley way out.

you know how you have the bolt that you tighten down to move the idler pulley to tighten the belt? well, that bolt goes into a little grove, correct? well, the bolt isn't in that grove, its well above it cause we had to do that in order to get the belt tight.

boostedeghatch

you see the idler pulley next to the small black coupling? you can see the grove in the black bracket thing where you screw the 10mm bolt into to move the idler pulley to tighten the belt that goes from the nose pulley to the alt.

well, since the belt i have is too big, the 10mm bolt isn't in that grove that you see in the pic. its sits above that right above where the U shaped looking hole is in the bracket.

boostedeghatch

any of you guys using the JR map controller?

what did you set your ignition timing when using it?

it says you can set it within 2 degrees of base setting.... so 14btc???

rmcdaniels

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedeghatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you see the idler pulley next to the small black coupling? you can see the grove in the black bracket thing where you screw the 10mm bolt into to move the idler pulley to tighten the belt that goes from the nose pulley to the alt.

well, since the belt i have is too big, the 10mm bolt isn't in that grove that you see in the pic. its sits above that right above where the U shaped looking hole is in the bracket.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

As long as you can get it tight it should be fine, as long as it's not pushed so far down that it's touching the other side of the belt, but that would smoke and squeal like crazy if it went that far. When I put a smaller pulley on my blower I had to grind out the hole a bit and get a really long screw from the hardware store to make it work. You can also take the belt to an auto parts store, most ov them have a good selection of 4-rib belts in stock and can find you one that's a bit smaller.

rmcdaniels

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedeghatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any of you guys using the JR map controller?

what did you set your ignition timing when using it?

it says you can set it within 2 degrees of base setting.... so 14btc???</TD></TR></TABLE>

I set mine to 12 or 14 with the map controller(been a long time since I had it, so not exactly sure), it worked like a champ. It restored the drivability I lost when I had to retard it so much without the MAP controller.

boostedeghatch

well, i have smaller belts, just wondering about it.


i forgot i have an all motor chipped kenji ecu, so maybe i should leave my timing where its at since i haven't had any problems or heard any detonation

i have a gsr motor in an eg hatch running a kenji p28 ecu

caranjo

On a side note, i've decided to sell my jrsc setup. I have the 99-00 civic which fits the b16a2... can this fit b16a1 and any b18xx engines with modifications and if so mods need to be done??

boostedeghatch

it will fit the b16 head and the type r head, but not the ls or gsr head. the bolt pattern is different on the ls and gsr head.

boostedeghatch

hooked up the boost guage to the intake manifold and now its reading boost

i checked my spark plugs today and here's what they looked like:



i did a WOT pull, pulled into the driveway, shut the car down, took out the plugs.

fuel pressure at idle is at 47psi with hose on, 61-62psi with hose off fpr, like 62 with hose off fmu. running 6psi on a gsr motor


Modified by boostedeghatch at 7:44 AM 6/30/2005

Tad

making 6psi eh?
look like you might be running alil rich,
my car is tuned well, and the entire porcelain(at least the entire visible portion) cleans all carbon deposits off it on a WOT pull.
yours looks like it's carbon coated all the way up till the tip..

stock FPR ?

boostedeghatch

yeah.. boost guage reads like 5-6psi, wasn't really paying attention to it.

i have an aem fpr

i'm still using the jrsc fmu

with the hose off the fpr , i see roughly 52psi
with the hose off the fmu, i see like high 60's i think
with the hose on, the fuel pressure is set at 42psi

timing is around 10BTC i think.. i didn't have time to check it again. was thinking of picking up the timing to 14BTC since i'm using the JR map controller

EnzoSpeed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedeghatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm still using the jrsc fmu</TD></TR></TABLE>


Bingo. That's why you are running rich, you have to. That's the flaw with FMUs, you can't get a good tune. You just have to run a bit rich under boost to avoid the risk of ever running lean.

Running rich isn't a problem though. Just wastes some gas and takes you down a few hp. I was running conservatively rich for about a year (my plugs looked like yours) and I didn't even notice my gas mileage change, so obviously it wasn't a big deal.

caranjo

Does anyone know if the 99-00 Civic Si for the B16a2 will fit the B16a1 head?? If it needs modifications, what mods are involved??

rmcdaniels

My B16A1 head is the same as my B16A2 head, I swap parts between them.

caranjo

Sorry not sure if i phrased that correctly! I meant will the JRSC fit ok on the b16a1 head as it was made for the b16a2 head. What mods will be needed to make the JRSC fit? For example, does the placement of the alternator need to change?

boostedeghatch

so then over all my plugs look fine for using the fmu

EnzoSpeed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedeghatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so then over all my plugs look fine for using the fmu</TD></TR></TABLE>

Really, what else could they look like? The jackson FMU has a set boost/fuel ratio. So you can't make it richer or leaner, you just have to take what you can get.

Having said that, the plugs are fine.

Tad

might look into what your base fuel pressure should be at idle