caranjo

My motivation behind this post is to compare what i will be running with what you guys are currently running and to see if there is anything i am missing. Would be nice to see some dyno's too if you got 'em!

I have a JDM B16A2 Sol with Aem V2 Cai/DC 4-2-1/Ex and I have on order:

- 99-00 Civic Si JRSC
- S200 Hondata with boost
- RC 440 Fuel injectors
- Exedy Stage 1 Clutch
- 8psi pulley
- IK20 Denso Iridiums (are these cool enough for the setup above?)

On a side note I've been told that there is no real need to upgrade the fuel pump or even to get the Hondata IM. Comments? Suggestions?

caranjo

^^

wilsel

D16Z6 stock boost (6lbs), JR Map controller.

No dyno, or track times yet.

caranjo

Nice... how did the boost feel?

Sonny

I had a setup similar to yours (2000 Civic Si, JRSC, 440's, Hondata).

I always ran the stock exhaust because it was quiet and didn't attract any attention.

6 psi: 197 whp
8 psi: 215 whp

I think another 10 whp could have been had with a nice exhaust.

Sonny

caranjo

221 whp, nice! I bought a new exhaust but it's silent. In fact, my car looks stock, apart from the alloy wheels, which look OEMish anyway for the car that it is.

Did you keep the stock fuel pump at 8psi?

Sonny

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caranjo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
221 whp, nice! I bought a new exhaust but it's silent. In fact, my car looks stock, apart from the alloy wheels, which look OEMish anyway for the car that it is.

Did you keep the stock fuel pump at 8psi?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I ran the stock pump at 8 psi. Stock pump will make about 250 whp pretty easily if you don't crank up the fuel pressure. It's ability to supply enough fuel at elevated pressure really drops off when you crank up the base pressure.

Sonny

rmcdaniels

I ran that setup on a '99 Civic Si with four broken pistons and cracked rings, running 10-11 PSI on some rotors with all the coating blasted off of them from a leaky methanol injection check valve. It made a little over 200 WHP and felt very fast. I drove it that way for several months, and it ran great, just used a lot of oil. I didn't drag race it, just autocrossed it, but it was a beast at autocross, I could outrun slightly modded WRX's with it on an autocross course, and would outrun most stock V8 cars from a stoplight. On a healthy engine with an intact blower that setup should be a lot of fun if properly tuned. If I did a JRSC again I'd seriously consider the LHT intercooler setup for it, as the discharge temps will get high if you wind it up. I also ran the Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump, just because it was cheap, but your stock pump will probably be fine. I'm running a 400+ WHP turbo setup now on a built engine, but I miss the JRSC because turbo lag really sucks for autocross or road course racing, although it's not an issue for drag racing.

caranjo

sonny think i will stick with my stick fuel pump then! Just out of interest, did you also stick with your stock clutch?

200whp with broken pistons! Not bad. Don't think i'll run that high boost pressure.. will stick to 8psi.

rmcdaniels

I used the cheap Exedy "Racing" clutch upgrade. It's about like an OEM clutch, just a bit stiffer. That worked well and was really easy to drive.

caranjo

Did anyone run a 3-bar map sensor when they ran hondata?

rmcdaniels

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caranjo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Did anyone run a 3-bar map sensor when they ran hondata? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I did.

caranjo

cheers dude! Can't wait to get my JRSC up and running!

BlackSage

I know there is more jrsc'ed cars out there...

caranjo

perhaps they are just a bit shy!

93supercoupe

my setup:

Gsr head, ls block
ARP Headstuds and rod bolts
P30 pistons
68mm STR TB w/ ported elbow

JRSC 10lbs
Water Injection
Uber w/ 440s and 255 pump and FPR

DC header w/ stock cat and NO exhaust
Fidnaza flywheel w/ ACT xtpp and 6 puck disc


No dyno numbers yet, but im hoping with 12lbs and a 50 wet shot would put me above 300whp.

caranjo

Nice setup, esp. with the water injection

Did anyone revise the gear ratio's??

DSM 440 Fuel injectors - anyone used them - are good for my application or should stick to RC 440's?? Am looking to get a USED set.

rmcdaniels

DSM's are 450's, lots of people use them, but I spent a bit extra on some new RC 440's, plus the RC injectors are flow matched as a set from RC, they give you the flow test results with the injectors. I use the RC 750's now, never had any problems with them or my 440's.

One thing that made a huge difference with my JRSC setup was decreasing the valve overlap. I used some Skunk2 cam gears to adjust it a bit. Four degrees of exhaust cam retard netted me about 20WHP across most of my RPM range, also smoothed out my torque line quite a bit. Just make sure you only do it on a dyno, every setup reacts differently to cam adjustment. Nothing I did on the intake cam made a difference on my setup

civiccrx21

88 crx HF B16A1

ITR charger
rc 440's
Zdyne Gold ECU (street tuned only)
Kamikaze Header
2.25 exhaust
8.8 flywheel
street clutch
Aem V2 Intake (had to be cut re-weld to make work)
stock fuel pump

spinning threw gears on 17's , traction a major issue

to LHT performance

caranjo

I've also heard about tuning cam gears - i just wonder how much EXTRA dyno time is required to tune them properly??

I have an AEM v2 intake - was also thinking of having it cut and shortened to a short ram style intake (or maybe just housing the air filter straight onto the JRSC), as i've read the JRSC doesn't like to work harder to draw in air from a CAI and you end up with a bit of performance loss.

rmcdaniels

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caranjo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I've also heard about tuning cam gears - i just wonder how much EXTRA dyno time is required to tune them properly??

I have an AEM v2 intake - was also thinking of having it cut and shortened to a short ram style intake (or maybe just housing the air filter straight onto the JRSC), as i've read the JRSC doesn't like to work harder to draw in air from a CAI and you end up with a bit of performance loss. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Most of the other JRSC users I've talked to got the best results with 0-1 degrees of exhaust retard and 3-4 degrees of intake advance. Knowing that, it took me less than an hour on the dyno to do my cams.

Personally I'd keep using a CAI, the JRSC has enough heat issues without drawing in hot air from under the hood, but I just used a $30 ebay special CAI with a K&N filter. The V2 uses a resonant chamber design to make the air flow better, but I don't know if that applies to a F/I setup, where a greater volume of air is being pulled in, the V2 may not be tuned for the flow of a F/I car. At any rate, if you're not going to use the V2, just sell it on ebay, those things sell for good $ (unless you already hacked it up too much to get it to fit your current setup). Then you can get a cheap ebay special CAI and hack it up to fit your setup. That's exactly what I did when I got my JRSC, I was using a V2 when I was N/A.


Modified by rmcdaniels at 2:40 AM 4/24/2005

rmcdaniels

A note on Cam tuning - I made a mistake earlier, I did 4 degrees of intake advance and .25 of exhaust retard, but it's been a while since I did my cam timing. Here's a thread on another board I did about it:

http://www.highaltitudeimports.com/t18591-.html

The link in my long post is some good reading.

caranjo

I read your VERY good post on valve overlap (haven't read the link yet) and have a couple of points. At 8psi (the pressure at which i intend on running), is valve overlap really an issue? It seems more of an issue at 10+psi and probably the reason why you got an additional 20whp. At 8psi, i'm guessing my gains are going to be minimal - maybe 5whp across the powerband...

Just wondering if it is worth investing $120 for the gears + $60 for cam belt + addtional $$ dyno tuning... ??

I think as long as i get a smooth idle and a pretty smooth power and torque curve, i'll be happy.


Modified by caranjo at 11:53 AM 4/24/2005

rmcdaniels

I'm not sure what the difference would be at 8 PSI. I think it's just a SC thing, the effective overlap is too much in a SC setup. I'm currently running a turbo at 20+ PSI and I leave the cam gears at 0 because they don't make much difference. I think you could use the same belt, and you'd only really need one gear, so it could be done a bit cheaper, but if you're happy with it, then run with it. If you do get a cam gear, I'd recommend one with a big scale like the STR gear, my Skunk 2 gears have very tiny marks that make it hard to tell what I have them set at.

caranjo

Just being doing some more research. How much of an issue is wheelspin say at 8psi?? I don't have LSD

Also, is -1e/+4i what most people do on the B16a or at least start of when tuning? I've seen on a 88-91 B16 mk2 CRX a guy went with -4e/+2i. Thats the complete opposite for the intake and exhaust cams. I have a JDM b16a2 1992 Del Sol (mk3 CRX).





Modified by caranjo at 2:51 PM 4/28/2005