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The RC 750's will be just fine. Glad to hear you found them on a great deal.
The RC 550 has a very distinct fuel spray pattern... unlike most fuel injectors that project a cone shaped mist of fuel, the RC 550 has a very tight "laser beam" style fuel stream. Because of the angle in which the fuel injector is installed into the JRSC intake manifold, at a very specific intake air velocity, this stream of fuel bends and strikes the face of the valve in such a way that it is nearly fully reflected back toward the fuel injector... causing a brief lean condition that manifests itself as a heavy mis-fire. In rare cases, this specific air velocity is not seen before 8000 rpm when operating a JRSC at 6 psi or less, and thus, may not result in the heavy mis-fire that I have described. However, at elevated boost levels, it will appear... and the higher the boost, the earlier it will appear... obviously, because the supercharger speed reaches the target rpm that creates the specific air velocity earlier in the engine's power band. On my own car, a 1.9L GSR engine with a JRSC @ 12 psi... my dyno graphs show this 40 HP power loss/mis-fire at 6750 rpm.
Hope there's still love for the JRSC!
I picked this up a couple of weeks ago for my 1996 GSR (lucked out with OBD2a). I would like to keep it CARB legal at 6 psi for occasional town driving and track weekends before I intend to go all out with tuning the ECU (OBD1 P72 in storage) and changing my exhaust setup for more flow.
Zerg Industries Manifold Gasket It bothers me that the 1994-99 GSRs had the 4.5" shorter length cat and header vs. the rest of the models.
Would have been nice if I could use this Comptech CARB Header without chopping up the stock exhaust: 1. If I'm not tuning the ECU and go legal, a FMU would be in order correct?
I'm pretty sure it didn't come with my kit and JRSC IIRC does not have this anymore. At least I have an old STR Fuel Rail (BDL) and RC 440's just cleaned and serviced. Walbro 255 and B16A2 transmission in storage as well. 2. Will stock 2" exhaust setup be okay with 6 psi?
3. What essential parts am I missing (FMU likely) to stay CARB and smooth the install and how to procure in 2017?
The stock fuel management consists of the JR FMU and the IAT mod/relay w/ pressure switch. These parts are no longer available from Moss, however, I believe I saw all of the items that you need on shelf a Motorvations Motorsports not long ago. Check with them.
You will not be able to use the larger RC 440's with the standard fuel management and still pass smog (not easily anyway)... save the injectors for when you actually convert to engine management.
The stock fuel management consists of the JR FMU and the IAT mod/relay w/ pressure switch. These parts are no longer available from Moss, however, I believe I saw all of the items that you need on shelf a Motorvations Motorsports not long ago. Check with them.
You will not be able to use the larger RC 440's with the standard fuel management and still pass smog (not easily anyway)... save the injectors for when you actually convert to engine management.
Thanks! I spoke with Jim from MVM.
201 Morrow S Chalkville # 4, Trussville, AL 35173
205-661-3600
Jim did talk about your SC baby JRCivic1. I think I will be going MVM/Hondata route with inspirations from your build. I'll make an ongoing thread in the near future!
Last edited by ReMiNiScEnCe; 02-02-2017 at 11:00 AM.
Anyone have an ITR throttle cable bracket? Mine is broken and really need one ASAP. Here is a pic for reference. Shoot me a text or give me a call if anyone has one 520-840-2578. Thanks in advance
Nitrous port ??? I wasn't aware there was one. If it has a chrome/silver bolt in it, that is actually for a water injection kit... very fine threads for the injector nozzle to screw in directly.
Do I need to keep my narrowband O2 sensor after installing my wideband?
I've the PLX SM-AFR wideband unit and I spliced the power wires into the wires going to my OBDI ECU pins A25, A26. For the signal wire, I cut the ELD wire going to D10 and tucked the ELD side away. The wire going into D10 I soldered to the SM-AFR 0-5V output wire.
Step Four in the PLX instructions (attached) was unclear.
Edit: I remembered on my drive in that I change my Hondata to look for D10 as my O2 input.
The calculator is based on roughly what your 1/4 mile trap speed and weight would translate into WHP. This typically translates to a DynoJet with standard setting however dyno's are subjective as it depends on settings and type. Typically mustang dynos read low, dynojet in the middle, and dynopack high but again it depends on settings.
Hey Veris. I've been using your site for my JRSC build and it has helped tremendously! On your site you recommended a 2.5" catback for JRSC setups. So I've been looking around for a full catback system and I'm really set on getting the Apex'i WS2 catback system for it's non-canister look and non-raspy sound output (I like the stock look). However, the piping is only 60.5mm (2.38") in diameter and just a hair shy of being 2.5" so my other option is getting the universal WS2 70mm (2.75") muffler and custom fab the rest of the piping. But I rather have a complete catback system from the manufacturer without fabbing my own. Do you know if the 60.5mm piping will hinder my goal of trying to squeeze out as much power as possible on the setup? Otherwise I might just go with the universal muffler and get the piping done, which I rather avoid
Anyone else please feel free to chime in.
2001 ITR
* Comptech Icebox w/ AEM filter
* DC Sports 4-1 Ceramic
* Stock R Exhaust
* High Boost JRSC (est. 12.6 PSI, 11.6 with LHT mod)
-- LHT Intercooler with heat exchanger
-- JR 3.8 Snout
-- JR 5.95 Crank
-- Alternator Stepper Pulley
* Hondata IM Gasket
* Hondata S300 V3
* Omni 4 Bar MAP Sensor
* RC 750cc Injectors
* AEM High Fuel Rail + Regulator
* Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
B18C1 Block
Why is the spot that I marked D always referred to as a source for adding drain back from a catch can? Would it not vent the block?
The reason I'm asking is I think I might be building excess pressure in the crank case causing seal leakage. I deleted my PCV system with the intent of using B and C as vent locations but B was totally inaccessible with the JRSC installed so, for some reason, I reinstalled both plugs. Now, I've got A, B, and C plugged and a capped 10AN fitting in D. I've two -10AN fittings in my valve cover routed to my catch can.
Would I be ok, routing a line from D? I'm going to "test" it out at idle no matter what to see if it helps. Getting at the fitting for C is a PITA with the engine installed...
Hey Veris. I've been using your site for my JRSC build and it has helped tremendously! On your site you recommended a 2.5" catback for JRSC setups. So I've been looking around for a full catback system and I'm really set on getting the Apex'i WS2 catback system for it's non-canister look and non-raspy sound output (I like the stock look). However, the piping is only 60.5mm (2.38") in diameter and just a hair shy of being 2.5" so my other option is getting the universal WS2 70mm (2.75") muffler and custom fab the rest of the piping. But I rather have a complete catback system from the manufacturer without fabbing my own. Do you know if the 60.5mm piping will hinder my goal of trying to squeeze out as much power as possible on the setup? Otherwise I might just go with the universal muffler and get the piping done, which I rather avoid
Anyone else please feel free to chime in.
2001 ITR
* Comptech Icebox w/ AEM filter
* DC Sports 4-1 Ceramic
* Stock R Exhaust
* High Boost JRSC (est. 12.6 PSI, 11.6 with LHT mod)
-- LHT Intercooler with heat exchanger
-- JR 3.8 Snout
-- JR 5.95 Crank
-- Alternator Stepper Pulley
* Hondata IM Gasket
* Hondata S300 V3
* Omni 4 Bar MAP Sensor
* RC 750cc Injectors
* AEM High Fuel Rail + Regulator
* Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
The 60.5mm piping will hinder your HP potential. At the boost you are running, you will be creating additional back pressure that will hinder the blower moving the maximum amount of airflow through the engine.
Ex: In my first JRSC build, (almost identical setup to yours +E85) I used a pre-98 spec Type R header and 60.5mm exhaust. After switching out the header to a Kamikazi 4-1 header and 70mm mandrel bent cat-back, the car gained an additional 30hp at the wheels while actually running less boost.
If you don't mind the ear piercing tone of exhaust note, I'd go with the 70mm system. More HP, but less discrete.
The 60.5mm piping will hinder your HP potential. At the boost you are running, you will be creating additional back pressure that will hinder the blower moving the maximum amount of airflow through the engine.
Ex: In my first JRSC build, (almost identical setup to yours +E85) I used a pre-98 spec Type R header and 60.5mm exhaust. After switching out the header to a Kamikazi 4-1 header and 70mm mandrel bent cat-back, the car gained an additional 30hp at the wheels while actually running less boost.
If you don't mind the ear piercing tone of exhaust note, I'd go with the 70mm system. More HP, but less discrete.
Hey hondalocal. Thanks for the input. I'm definitely leaning towards the 70mm Apex'i WS2 muffler and do some custom mandrel bent piping. Perhaps a good resonator should tone it down a bit. Any recs on resonators? And I think my DC 4-1 is also a bottle neck. I've been searching for the Kamikaze 4-1 headers but it seems to be a unicorn. Any header recs as well?
P.S. I followed your thread and it looks like you were making over 300whp with stated setup + E85 ?! If that's the case that is awesome. I'm trying to get as close to 300whp as possible.
Im no expert on porting, but I think it is safe to say that this is definitely not the kind of work someone should ever share with the outside world if they want to be taken seriously.
Why is the spot that I marked D always referred to as a source for adding drain back from a catch can? Would it not vent the block?
I'm going to "test" it out at idle no matter what to see if it helps.
The location definitely vents the block. I had an open line running to it last night while I was bleeding the cooling system. You could see gases escaping (kind of cold so you could see them condensing as they met the cold air). Thumb test verified a slight pressure at idle.
index
According to the guys who've been doing it for years, porting is good for 2.0L and up. I'm sure Mr. Grim had some thoughts on the process as well. If you're curious, search the thread.
B18C1 Block
Why is the spot that I marked D always referred to as a source for adding drain back from a catch can? Would it not vent the block?
The reason I'm asking is I think I might be building excess pressure in the crank case causing seal leakage. I deleted my PCV system with the intent of using B and C as vent locations but B was totally inaccessible with the JRSC installed so, for some reason, I reinstalled both plugs. Now, I've got A, B, and C plugged and a capped 10AN fitting in D. I've two -10AN fittings in my valve cover routed to my catch can.
Would I be ok, routing a line from D? I'm going to "test" it out at idle no matter what to see if it helps. Getting at the fitting for C is a PITA with the engine installed...
Just went through the same things with mine lol. what i found to be the best solution, is to block off B,C, and D and utilize a vented valvecover with 2 AN fittings to a catch can. youll cut down on your oil consumption quite a bit (especially on track) and you simplify the back of the block area thats already packed tight with the blower.
Just went through the same things with mine lol. what i found to be the best solution, is to block off B,C, and D and utilize a vented valvecover with 2 AN fittings to a catch can. youll cut down on your oil consumption quite a bit (especially on track) and you simplify the back of the block area thats already packed tight with the blower.
Originally Posted by CX-Adam
The location definitely vents the block. I had an open line running to it last night while I was bleeding the cooling system. You could see gases escaping (kind of cold so you could see them condensing as they met the cold air). Thumb test verified a slight pressure at idle.
Thanks for the response, ahb. I've already got the VC fittings routed to my catch can. Gonna add a third from the block since I've already got a fitting in the freeze plug location that I can use and it was venting.
Just went through the same things with mine lol. what i found to be the best solution, is to block off B,C, and D and utilize a vented valvecover with 2 AN fittings to a catch can. youll cut down on your oil consumption quite a bit (especially on track) and you simplify the back of the block area thats already packed tight with the blower.
Venting the valve cover doesn't do a very good job of venting the block though?
Hey hondalocal. Thanks for the input. I'm definitely leaning towards the 70mm Apex'i WS2 muffler and do some custom mandrel bent piping. Perhaps a good resonator should tone it down a bit. Any recs on resonators? And I think my DC 4-1 is also a bottle neck. I've been searching for the Kamikaze 4-1 headers but it seems to be a unicorn. Any header recs as well?
P.S. I followed your thread and it looks like you were making over 300whp with stated setup + E85 ?! If that's the case that is awesome. I'm trying to get as close to 300whp as possible.
I can't say that I've ever heard anything negative about Apexi exhaust. A good mandrel bent 70mm system will be ideal. The WS2 has a resonator built in, so that might help a bit. I'm not sure where you would put another resonator, looking at the system, but your local muffler shop could recommend something. I kinda cringe at cutting up a good cat-back system.
I have read some people have made good power with the Skunk2 Alpha header, but I hesitate to recommend, for fear of being stoned by someone from GDD.
To make the most power you will want to keep bottleneck's to a minimum. A good 4-1 header with 2.5"+ collector would be the main thing to keep in mind if you're going to go with 70mm exhaust. If you have to deal with smog (legally) you might be stuck with using a header with 2.25" collector and cat. If this is the case, I'm not sure you would benefit as much from the larger piping. At least in $:HP
Stupid question , So looking to see if anyone has run into anything like this before, just put the supercharger kit on my em1 (car is stock otherwise) with a stock fuel system and pcm (pcm/wideband) is in the mail and this is just to pull the car out of the garage no actual driving) Car started first crank idles great, giving the car any sort of throttle the car bogs and dies. Does this sound like it just needs more fuel/tune and that's causing it to bog or something like vacuum line routing/vacuum leak
01-30-2017, 01:19 PM
Re: ***The Official JRSC Thread***
Re: ***The Official JRSC Thread***
