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Oh right, I've totally blanked out on this - the D IS168 is the baro sensor.
I have just realized how lovely is the O2 sensor positioned - looks like my 95 only has one, after the cap - and it's facing up. So it's between the exhaust pipe and the intake manifold, there is no chance I would remove it. I guess I would need to go with narrow-band tuning for a start
Any idea if the O2 sensor header is constantly 100% on or is it some sort of PWM duty cycle?
According to the book my 1995 has a timing mark on the crank pulley. This car is 19 years old and that is probably the reason why I just do not see any mark with a timing gun?
Any hints on how I can restore the mark? Stick a pencil into a cylinder and find TDC? then what?
You could use a routine that checks what the map pressure is at key on, then subtract that value from initial... based on weather conditions.
That way you know what the difference is when the engine is actually running.
You could use a routine that checks what the map pressure is at key on, then subtract that value from initial... based on weather conditions.
That way you know what the difference is when the engine is actually running.
You've lost me to be honest What are we talking about here?
The guy above said that there is a Baro sensor on the ECU.
Based on what you said about connecting the map sensor up to your bench testing equipment you see a voltage. The voltage would change based off what elevation you are at along with weather conditions.
Having the Baro sensor is a way that can measure current conditions and subtract or add pressure. Once you know this value you store that as the zero point.
then you can scale the map reading and detect change.
My thinking is, if you only have one sensor, read the initial value of the map and set that as your zero point. then you dont need a baro sensor.
Although My theory is already wrong because if you went up or down in elevation or the weather changed drastically the map pressure readings would become skewed over time.
Although My theory is already wrong because if you went up or down in elevation or the weather changed drastically the map pressure readings would become skewed over time.
Yep, that's the flaw. Atmospheric pressure is very dynamic so having an initial value won't always do much good. Probably not a big deal for here in FL, but I immediately think of driving around in western NC or something where you're all over the place. The car would run like crap if drastically moved from the nominal elevation.
I've gone the other way on an alpha-n setup before though. Had to tune a motor in Florida to run in Michigan, so the onboard MAP (Haltech) was left open to the atmosphere and a table was built around it to correct for the altitude difference. Worked good enough to keep things in the ballpark, probably could have been spot on with a little more work.
I am glad you've edited your comment once you've realized that you were wrong.
Good question why not just use MS. I just enjoy making my own unit, and I think it has potential - it has build-in scripting language for flexible I/O, but yes, I do struggle to find an advantage over MS.
I am glad you've edited your comment once you've realized that you were wrong.
Good question why not just use MS. I just enjoy making my own unit, and I think it has potential - it has build-in scripting language for flexible I/O, but yes, I do struggle to find an advantage over MS.
makes me wonder if th MS guys would be happy hearing about this, doesn't rusefi use tunerstudio?
Not sure what your point is, any chance you would elaborate?
msDroid uses tunerstudio configuration files and does not work with rusEfi.
tunerstudio works with rusEfi but tunerstudio is not MS.
tunerstudio uses windows but rusEfi is not windows. MS is not Windows, also. tunerstudio is totally cool with rusEfi being compatible with tunerstudio.
And just to be clear, rusEfi has nothing to do with MS.
08-15-2014, 06:07 PM
Re: rusEfi - DIY ems build thread
What are we talking about here?
