hondacummins

I'm in the process of making a harness. I have a amphenol connector like the chase bays and ryewire etc. I'm using the oem distributor for the timing signals. My main question is how do you guys go about running the shielded wire through the connector. My thought is to take the three wires and run them through regularly then take the sheild/ground and run it through the connector like a regular wire, connect the shield on the inside of the car through the mil spec connector. And lastly terminate the end of the shield in the cabin on the logic ground wire. Or would you terminate the shield in the engine bay? Leaving like 2 feet unsheilded in the cabin. Or terminate both ends serperately.


Next. I noticed Honda splices a lot of grounds. They use a crimped style terminal looking thing. What's the difference if I was to solder these joints?

Tyler Dirden

iTrader: (3)

Shielding is not critical in every signal wire. It is provided on mainly timing signal and distributor signal generating lines. Under the hood, many high voltage interference issues can cause random proximity data disturbance or loss. Shielding provides an adequate means of carrying these rouge signals to ground.
If you bring the shielding up to the firewall and end it AT the connector, you will be just fine. Inside the car you may choose to continue the shielding, but in most cases the firewall provides excellent stray signal attenuation. I have seen many set ups that have no shielding on the signal wires at all, but the signal wires are tightly twisted pairs accomplishing the same effect as full shielding.

yungmulacrx

Only ground one side of the shielding.. I would run it through the bulkhead like any other wire and terminate it too ground in the cabin.. also for connecting grounds together I prefer crimp over solder in any kind of vibrating environment..

lostforawhile

when I get home, I have a bunch of Honda round molex connectors from the yard, some with shielded wires that run through them, I'll take a picture of how they run their shielded wires, if that will help

hondacummins

Awesome thanks so much everyone! Where can you get those little crimp terminals? I guess I could take an ecu pin and cut it

lostforawhile

I forgot to grab a connector, but on the ones I've seen they spiral wrap the shielding around the wire, then terminate the shielding as a regular ground wire, which is soldered or crimped inside the outer covering over the shielding wire, you can do the same thing by twisting the shielding wire together, soldering a wire to it, and shrinking heat shrink over it

GhostAccord

If you look at most of the stock sheilded wires they are terminated at the same ground position as the ECU. Usually the thermostat housing. Best way is to twist the strands together on the engine bay side and solder/crimp them to a piece of wire. Then run it to the ECU/main ground 101.

theYBLEGAL

I would use solder in an environment with vibration. If you solder properly, it won't fall apart. Use flux. Crimps suck imo, pull apart to easy.

Check out my tucked bay at yblegal.net,

Pics of the job can be found at YBLEGAL.net ? Suspension, Wire Tuck, & More

lostforawhile

I solder everything too, but if you crimp them with a rotary crimper, it's not coming apart, Tool Aid 18930 Ratcheting Terminal Crimper for Weatherpack Terminals at SkyGeek.com

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

It's actually the other way around. A properly crimped joint is more reliable in a high vibration environment. Solder joints cannot flex and become stress concentrations in the harness. A properly crimped wire ends up being more reliable and has often been shown to have a lower resistance as well.

yungmulacrx

To each their own but solder is not vibration friendly.. look at airplanes.. but then again this is not a plane and you can pull over if you have a issue.. thanks spadam

F22Master

Crimp >> solder

IF both are done properly.

< aircraft mechanic

lostforawhile

most cars won't have nearly the vibration issues of a small plane, remember a typical small single engine plane has the engine mounts right through the firewall, which is right in front of the majority of the electrical connections,for the avionics etc, so vibration would be quite an issue, I know we use a combination of crimps and solder, solder for the D connector pins for the avionics and rotary crimper for the individual terminals, I think that's more for time saving,both seem to work fine