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yeah not to get off topic, but to address your concern: i would like to go with an lsd eventually. honestly im really focused on just getting this thing assembled and running. i did rebuild the trans with all new bearings and syncrotech components about 2 years ago(maybe 5k miles). this car is not a drag race car, it is a weekend cruiser, mainly used for highway pulls. as far as the size of the turbo, that turbo made 800+ on a 2.2 ecotec rail dragster. it made 3 dyno pulls, and 2 passes at the track and my friend pulled it to go back to a supercharger. but my wife bought it from my friend for a couple hundred bucks. its a t4 .82 hotside, 72mm inducer. dual ceramic ball bearing. once again, i have collected parts slowly, patiently, waiting for bargains. i know some things may not be exactly perfect(such as the turbo being a little big). but for the price, and the fact my wife got it for our anniversary, its more cost effective than a 1500 turbo. i work hard to have what i have, i save meticulously, i have a family to support, and i pay for everything in cash. i don't rack up credit cards to build race cars. my wife and the baby enjoy the car, but i need to be responsible and thrifty when i can. that being said, on with the topic at hand.
im trying to stay focused on the end goal. i will not abandon the project. but for $800 in the block, $750 in machine work so far, and still needs line bored. this obviously doesn't include any bottom end components that ive bought (all oem bearings, seals,pumps, etc), rods, pistons, dampner. you guys get the point. for me to sleeve the spare block i have, its another 1500 bucks not including any final machine work. ive considered CSS, which was my original intention until i came across this block already sleeved. but css, machined and shipped im looking at over 700 bucks at least. so either way, it looks cheaper for me to ship the block or just drive it to Maryland. shipping is no big deal, my work (freightliner, cummins, catepillar dealership) has a shipping department, we frequently ship large items and i have crates and straps for engines and transmissions at my disposal. i am trying to avoid shipping though to be honest.
Ill be making a call to IAG tomorrow to talk with them about getting this thing done. ill post up how it works out. enjoy the rest of your weekend everyone.
I cant see the images for some reason. I might suggest starting a new thread. But while im here, I dont see why you couldnt hone it at home If you know what your doing. Read up. Learn. Diy. Ive rehoned and reringed a few hd diesel engines with absolutely no issues (talking 250k + miles) even reused the bearing lol. Not my choice but the companies. Anywho, deoends on extent of the damage. Start a new thread with pics that work and im sure someone more qualified than me will chime in and help you out.
- IAG told me they will only touch subaru blocks.
I have a lead on a shop sort of local to me that our company trainer uses. He in fact had the guy do all the machine work on a b16 he built a few years ago. Seems promising and hopefully I can get something lined up for this week.
Good news guys. Got my block to a local machine shop. Guys name is Denny ***** in newvill PA. Old school guy but knows his honda sh**. He also knows the owners of the previous machine shop that did the original work and he is confident in their abilities. He is going to take care of the arp main studs and line bore. Picked his brain for a good 30 min and he really seems down to earth and very knowledgable and familiar with hondas. He also looked over my mics and bore gauge and said they are a great set and should easily be very accurate.
I also had the previous machine shop mic my crank because they told me my mics were off 8 thousandths. So I figured ill let them blue print the crank and compare to my original measurements: when compared there is a max difference of .0001on any given Journal. thats damn good for me. Not sure what made them think my mics were off but their measurements match mine. Soo we are back on track everyone. Current machine shopnis 3 weeks out they said. So ill update when everything comes back and I start remeasuring everything, hopefully for the last time.
Awesome! That's great news!
Finally! A competent and able machine shop.
Weird about the .008" difference. Chances are it was human error on their part.
New guy sounds legit. That's cool of them to verify your mics and compare measurements. That's a good sign.
Might not be a bad idea to get on his good side and tip him $20 beforehand, just to help ensure they take care of you. One hand washes the other end good service is hard to find. Take care of him and chances are he'll take care of you.
Isn't engine building fun??? ���� lol
Quick update guys: got the blocm back after arp main studs, line bore job. Looks great. The machine shop bored the mains to 2.3233 (he said that put it in the middle of spec). According to my calculations that puts me at .0015 on the mains at the tightest point and .0018 at the loosest (depending on the variance in laskeys chart numbers) using honda reds. That should do the trick I think. I need to sit down and double check everything again before ordering bearings, this was just a quick assessment after I got the block last night.
Okay so ive been working on the blue print for a few minutes with everything sitting in front of me. Looks like ill be running pink/reds on 1245 and reds on 3. That puts me in the .0016-.0018 on 1245 and .0019-.0021 on 3 (depending on the varying range if the bearing halves) im good with that.
Started on the rods and im confused again lol here I go: all the journals micd to 1.7710. So I went to set the dial bore gauge in the torqued rod w/o any bearings installed and im between anvils. So I used snap gauges. What I got was very inconsistent (expected). But lets go with it for now 1.8889 was one of the rods. thats .1179. Now subtract lets say red rod bearings and you get - .0007. Thats not what I got the first time around. So I decided to set my micrometer to 1.7710. I than zerod my dial bore gauge to the micrometer. I than installed 2 honda red rod bearings and torqued to 43ft lbs. Stuck my dial bore gauge in the rod assembly. And I get .0043 as my reading. Waaaaaay different than the math I did. Should I just keep going with the mic and bore gauge way of measuring the rods? I also found on eagles website that the big end diameter is 1.7710. In which case my clearance would be negative with bearings installed if my crank was 1.7710 also.
Last edited by 1988dxsedan; 09-23-2016 at 04:26 PM.
Try this way. It may be easier. The less measurements the better (less chance for human error).
Install red bearings in your rod and torque to spec.
Set your Mic to 1.7790 (your verified rod journal size).
Zero out your dial bore guage to your Mic which is still @ 1.7790".
Now when you put your dial bore guage into the rod, you will get your bearing clearance.
I've never really trusted snap gauges too much. I could never get consistent enough with them. Maybe down to thousandths they are ok, but I don't trust them to ten thousandths.
Almost there!
Nevermind I see you did just that.
If your consistently measuring 0043" and trust your measurements (and verify with PG if you want), then something must be off with your math or maybe a previous measurement.
Thanks pyro. Im done for the night but ill get back at it this weekend. I think the snap gauges are just crappy. Ill continue doing them with the mic and bore gauge as you suggested. Ill update as soon as I get it all figured out. Thanks again...
im editing my last post because i just spent 2 hours working on this and have finalized some things. i want to run the number by everyone and get thoughts before i order bearings.
main specs 1,2,4,5-> .0009-.0017 3--> .0012-.0019
#1 .0017-.0021 with reds,
.0015-.0019 red/pink
#2 .0016-.0020 reds
.0014-.0018 red/pink
#3 .0016-.0020 reds
.0014-.0018 red/pink
#4 .0016-.0020 reds
.0014-.0018 red/pink
#5 .0016-.0020 reds .0014-.0018 red/pink
*my thoughts are to run red for everything...??? but the SERVICE LIMIT is .0020 (.0024 for #3)
my thoughts are to run reds for everything. will the be okay for 1&4 rods being that they are slightly smaller than the other two?
open to thoughts, ideas, criticism before i order all these bearings. i know everyone says to run larger clearances for high horsepower cars. the thing is i really dont beat my car much, but im planning on making 400-500. street driven , babied with the occasional pull. .
im crossing my fingers that my measurements with the new bearings will put me in the middle of these ranges. i just like to be thorough and examine the potential of each end of the extreme in bearing halve thickness.
Last edited by 1988dxsedan; 09-28-2016 at 05:01 PM.
After reading even more, speaking to the machine shop, going through californiadads build thread for the third time I decided to go with reds/pink for mains 1245, I ordered 2reds and 1 pink for main 3 (see which turns out better), and all red for the rods. Machine shop said if the rods need opened up slightly it's no big deal ( not taking enough to worry about issues with bearing crush). So all the bearings are ordered from majestic honda. Now I can remove some plugs and final clean this thing.
Endyne has not gotten back to me yet. However inlinefour has them in stock. 130 dollars shipped for 8 rod bearings. It was 80 bucks through majestic honda. Thats insane. About ready to order a set of acl HX rod bearings for 50 bucks. I dont want to do that but not sure what else to do
Endyne has not gotten back to me yet. However inlinefour has them in stock. 130 dollars shipped for 8 rod bearings. It was 80 bucks through majestic honda. Thats insane. About ready to order a set of acl HX rod bearings for 50 bucks. I dont want to do that but not sure what else to do
Might be more cost effective and easier to get some HX rod bearings and have the machine size the rod big ends to your desired clearance with them. I dont think its a huge deal to have the rods sized to make a specific bearing work out. I think I did this exact same thing for my build. Cant recall as I have a ton of stuff going on in life and my b series build has been ongoing for years. I may have made a post about it somewhere in this section.
Well I ordered ACL race hx rod bearings. Im really disappointed actually. I was really looking to keep this all oem honda bearings, but with the red rods backordered with no ETA from honda, im almost forced. I considered going with pink bearings, and resizing the rods but I didnt want to take that much out of the rod, not to mention another 100 bucks in machine work for that. So I bit the bullet and got the acl rod bearings. Mains are still OEM and have arrived in the mail. I'll be micing and measuring the acl just as I have done with the oem, along with plasti gauging for a double check.
When plasti gauging the rods, are you guys doing the mains amd rods at the same time? Are you just laying the crank in with no caps on and torqueing the rod with plasti gauge? How are you going about the plasti gauge process ? I do not literally mean how to use plasti gauge, I get how to use it and I have used it on mains before, but doing it for the rods you will have to move the crank to access the rod cap to torque it, spining the crank with no lube or mains is obviously a no no.
While I understand the need to save money, if you really wanted an OEM build and wanting the "right" part for the job, in the grand scheme of things is 50 bucks really a deal-breaker for you? I get it, theyre just bearings, but they also weren't available anywhere else as you say, and I am sure they realize the convenience they are providing by keeping them in stock, so they charge extra for it. I guess I just have a hard time understanding how when building an engine, 50 bucks will keep you for ordering the right part for the job and compromising your whole premise. Dont get me wrong, ACLs have and do work, I just think there is a reason Honda doesn't use standard bearings and I dont think machining the rotating assembly is the answer here either. Either way, I hope it all works out for you.
Well I ordered ACL race hx rod bearings. Im really disappointed actually. I was really looking to keep this all oem honda bearings, but with the red rods backordered with no ETA from honda, im almost forced. I considered going with pink bearings, and resizing the rods but I didnt want to take that much out of the rod, not to mention another 100 bucks in machine work for that. So I bit the bullet and got the acl rod bearings. Mains are still OEM and have arrived in the mail. I'll be micing and measuring the acl just as I have done with the oem, along with plasti gauging for a double check.
When plasti gauging the rods, are you guys doing the mains amd rods at the same time? Are you just laying the crank in with no caps on and torqueing the rod with plasti gauge? How are you going about the plasti gauge process ? I do not literally mean how to use plasti gauge, I get how to use it and I have used it on mains before, but doing it for the rods you will have to move the crank to access the rod cap to torque it, spining the crank with no lube or mains is obviously a no no.
Just my logic here.
You do the mains on one pass (no oil, no movement). After you get that all dialed in and cleaned up, you use assembly lube on the mains and assemble to spec. Now you can turn the crank at will. So now, you do one rod at a time. No movement of the crank this way until you are ready to move onto doing the next rod. You've already removed the rod you just have done OR you've cleaned it all up, added assembly lube and assembled that rod to spec.
Makes sense. Its how I was thinking of it in my head. So I need to final clean everything here before I post up plasti gauge results. Thanks for the input thus far from everyone. Ide like to get to the mains later this week, but life and work is hectic, got mandatory OT going with no end in site. Great for the wallet and build, not so great on the time. I'll update as soon as I can.
So Im an idiot and ordered 2 sets of upper main bearings. I contacted majestic and they approved an exchange.
While I was starting to clean things to plastigauge the mains, I pulled the main caps off (1st time since getting it back from line bore and hone) and k found something I didnt like on main #4 with the cap removed if you look closely you can see multiple tiny "holes". This was not there prior to the line bore and hone job.
08-28-2016, 01:45 PM
Re: another honda bearing
