Wiring diagram for Battery relocation and Master Kill switch
#52
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Re: (BrowNKiD)
T1 Battery Cutoff Kit $75.00
Features
This kit allows you to meet NHRA safety guidelines when a battery cutoff switch is required. The kit is based around a 200amp continuous duty electronic solenoid that has been thoroughly track tested and can handle tire shake and vibration without coming unlatched.
Installation on the kit is much easier than a typical battery cutoff switch. The solenoid is generally mounted close to the battery. You have 4 poles on the solenoid, 2 big and 2 small. It acts just like a big relay. One of the big poles goes to the battery positive and one goes to the rest of the car. You're essentially just putting this solenoid inline on your regular power cable coming from the battery. You need to make sure your alternator output wire is going directly to the battery now as it will keep the car running when the solenoid is turned off otherwise. The small posts are your switched power and ground. You'll send a constant 12v power source to one post and a switched ground to the other post. It doesn't matter which source goes to which post on the small posts, just that one is 12v and one is ground. When 12v and ground are applied, the two big posts are connected. Your switched ground wire will run from the small post to the rear of the car, to one pole of the switch. The other pole of the switch will be wired to a chassis ground in the rear of the car.
Drill a 1/2" hole in the rear bumper and mount the switch and switch cover.
Turn the switch on and start the car. Turn the switch off and if the car dies you've done it correctly.
LINK
http://www.t1raceparts.com/product_p/t1bck.htm
Features
This kit allows you to meet NHRA safety guidelines when a battery cutoff switch is required. The kit is based around a 200amp continuous duty electronic solenoid that has been thoroughly track tested and can handle tire shake and vibration without coming unlatched.
Installation on the kit is much easier than a typical battery cutoff switch. The solenoid is generally mounted close to the battery. You have 4 poles on the solenoid, 2 big and 2 small. It acts just like a big relay. One of the big poles goes to the battery positive and one goes to the rest of the car. You're essentially just putting this solenoid inline on your regular power cable coming from the battery. You need to make sure your alternator output wire is going directly to the battery now as it will keep the car running when the solenoid is turned off otherwise. The small posts are your switched power and ground. You'll send a constant 12v power source to one post and a switched ground to the other post. It doesn't matter which source goes to which post on the small posts, just that one is 12v and one is ground. When 12v and ground are applied, the two big posts are connected. Your switched ground wire will run from the small post to the rear of the car, to one pole of the switch. The other pole of the switch will be wired to a chassis ground in the rear of the car.
Drill a 1/2" hole in the rear bumper and mount the switch and switch cover.
Turn the switch on and start the car. Turn the switch off and if the car dies you've done it correctly.
LINK
http://www.t1raceparts.com/product_p/t1bck.htm
#54
Honda-Tech Member
This doesn't pertain to the kill switch, but I've got a question related to a battery relocation in general.
What size FUSE should be used when relocating a battery?
I see some people saying 80amp, some people saying 100 amp, some saying 125, 150 etc.
I relocated my battery to my hatch and I want to fuse it. My Summit kit didn't come with a fuse and I'm having a hard time calculating what size to use.
One 2 gauge lead is 8-9' long, and the other is 5' long.
What size FUSE should be used when relocating a battery?
I see some people saying 80amp, some people saying 100 amp, some saying 125, 150 etc.
I relocated my battery to my hatch and I want to fuse it. My Summit kit didn't come with a fuse and I'm having a hard time calculating what size to use.
One 2 gauge lead is 8-9' long, and the other is 5' long.
#56
Re: Wiring diagram for Battery relocation and Master Kill switch
thank you,! for the kill switch diagram for dummies,just hooked up a 2 post switch to my scca crx and followed tepid 1's diagram and it shut off my car.2 wires together from one side of switch one goes to the pos.side of battery,other to the top of alternator 10mm nut.The other side of switch hooked wire to distribution block where there was already a wire coming from the positive side of battery.easy as that!
#57
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Wiring diagram for Battery relocation and Master Kill switch
thank you,! for the kill switch diagram for dummies,just hooked up a 2 post switch to my scca crx and followed tepid 1's diagram and it shut off my car.2 wires together from one side of switch one goes to the pos.side of battery,other to the top of alternator 10mm nut.The other side of switch hooked wire to distribution block where there was already a wire coming from the positive side of battery.easy as that!
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