PyroProblem

Sounds like crank harmonics doing some weird stuff...Someone needs to mount a high speed camera in the engine bay to catch whats going on...

Is everyone running lightweight flywheels?

Boostin Ex

My theory wasnt a fitment issue with the belt but the fact that the rubber mounted factory pulley was allowing to much movement under high load and rpm. Most of you im sure are using 10+ year old parts im sure. Also once you understand how a real harmonic dampner works such as a fluidyne or ati you see how easy it is for a stock unit to not perform how they should under high load's and rpm's.

Jared

In every case of high rpm belt throwing I've seen it's misalignment or improper belt tension caused by the wrong brackets. Not all B alternator brackets are the same and most of these cars are mix and match based on what was laying around at the time.

92redhatch

It's only happens on slicks never on street tires. Tomorrow I'm going to take some pics and post them and check my mounts to make sure no bolts are missing. It might be time to give the ati a try but I have to double check the basics. I'm running a stock flywheel. It's a erl sleeved lsvtec. Thanks for all the advice. Besides breaking axles. This belt situation has been a real pain in my ***.

BIGTUNA

Once I started taking my D to 8500 and above it would chuck the belts every 1-2 shift, put a underdrive pulley on the alternator and never spit a belt again.

Belts get shocked pretty bad on a hard shift esp on slicks. Any time the tire and the clutch dont slip it makes the engine de accel more harsh.

fukenricen

bigtuna and various others that have fixed the issues, how about some pics of the fix please

lsef

I had the same issue,it was the oem crank pulley.Now i run the professional products harmonic crank pulley and have not had an issue yet.

hondapowerb16a2

I was having the same problem belt would flip or around and shred off under high rpm's turned out to be the end of the crank that the pulley was on was slightly bent which wore the inside of the crank pulley weird so new crank and pulley and haven't had a problem since.

Boosted_B_Series

I'm going through the same thing, Mine eats one side of it till it snaps it.

Stock GSR pulley and stock alt pulley, revving to 9300.

Guess I'll be buying a ati street dampener and/or alt pulley soon.

jdmoutlaw

Check the crank walk. Best belt I found to use when having this problem is the bando belt that comes on JDM engines. 1 pass with a goodyear hole season with a Bando.
That was a beat up wore out motor. Problem was taken care of once I had a engine built and a fluidamper.

turbo-crx

did you check the mount housing?

HamiltonRex

you honestly think that running a twin disc without a pedal stop could put too much pressure on the end of the crank and cause it to shift enough to throw a belt?

jdmoutlaw

Over time yes, somrthing like a stage 5 clutch. Takes so much force to push it in pressure plate that over time it takes its toll on the trust washers.

nonvtecallmotor

A bigger alt. pulley fixed my issues.

92redhatch

I think I'm going to have the buy a different alt pulley. I double checked everything yesterday and everything looks great. The pulleys are perfectly inline. The mounts have all there bolts and everything is nice and tight.

PyroProblem

Im thinking the alternator cant accelerate and de-celerate as fast as the engine does...
Its interesting that porsche 911 manual transmission alternators have a sprag/one way clutch and the tiptronic ones dont. They do this so on engine decel, the alternator can "coast" down, putting less stress on the belt,engine, and alternator during abrupt rpm changes...
By changing the crank pulley to an underdrive one, you are making it easier for the alternator to "synchronize" with the engine rpm, due to the new engine to alternator ratio...
my 2 cents.

tepid1

You're on track Pyro....

I think it has to do with the drag that the alternator creates. As load on the alternator increases at lower rpm's I would think that the resistance the fields create increases as well. As the motor spins up the alternator is shedding load and the increase in revolutions create more amperage output so it allows the alternator to catch up.

I hope that makes sense. lol

92redhatch

Are any of the sfwd cars having this issue?

Boostin Ex

Yup I told you about mine. My ATI dampener fixed my issues I did everything except changing the alternator pulley and nothing fixed mine until my ATI dampener try the alternator pulley if it doesn't work then get a good crank pulley.

redzcstandardhatch

my fluidampr (b-series Race with a TINY pulley modded to fit an f22 engine ) drastically underdrives the alternator , and i can use a short belt.

never had a problem. stock D series pulley (when i had a D in the car, with the same alternator) had a problem a couple times.

Mr. Em1

iTrader: (1)

The oem crank pulleys cant keep up with the high rpm/power. Switch to an ati/fluidampr and you should be good!

92redhatch

Thanks I'll look into a ati

vivid 02

2 years ago I had that same problem. Belt would snap if I had it to tight, come off it too loose, and flip if I adjusted perfect. I swapped out alt mount, nothing. Swapped out to a new alt, nothing. Then finally I said ****kit and swapped out the B20 pulley for a CTR pulley............PROBLEM SOLVED!! Of course people say CTR pulley is a no no...but I didn't care because I was tired of messing with the belt after every pass.

LS AzZkIkr

If you are using the LS upper alt. bracket try to find a cast B16 one. The LS will flex under high load and cause you to throw a belt. JDMs1eeper and myself have had that problem and that was our solution.

fukenricen

Is this what you guys are talking about, if so how the heck does that fit especially on h2b setups

Also does that go on the crank or the altinator ?


7-3/8" Honda H22 Comp Series
Part #: 730602
Race Series - 30% Underdriven Alt. Pulley Only

Internally Balanced
Anodized Aluminum Finish