darnizzle8805

iTrader: (1)

I have a 91 integra with ES shifter bushings. I would like to lessen the play in the shifter if possible. There are 2 choices, the M-factory solid shifter bushings, and the IPG aluminum rear mount. Does anyone have any experience with either of these products. I'm wondering if either of these products will help me out.

I am also going to purchase the FLP shifter and change over to that from my current short shifter at the time of changing the shifter bushings.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

You could also run the hardrace bushings. i have them in my car it helped a lot with the shifter play

Bently_Coop

He already has Energy suspension poly bushings.

I am not sure changing bushings will help. You could try the IPG but I think this is something not needed unless its built pretty far. I had ES bushings on with a DC sports short shifter and they felt great over stock. I would be more inclined to leave it alone.

m4xwellmurd3r

Could another suggestion be to run an ITR shift linkage setup? I bought the change rod (thebrod with the joints in it) and that thing is thick as hell. afaik the bigger bar diameters help with shift feel. Thicker bar=less flex right?

That and the change rod is only 40 bucks from acura

darnizzle8805

iTrader: (1)

The change rod seems like a good idea, mine has a bit of play on the part that connects to the transmission. But it's not enough for me to really want to worry. Are the change rods readily available? Or is it something that is hard to find if my job can't get one for me(I am a Honda technician).

Also I am fine with how my shifter feels now, but I am worried that the FLP shifter may make it have more play since it is so much longer than stock and short shifters. Even though it's meant to have a stock like throw.

Garage_Boy

I would highly recommend the RC Auto works no slop linkage. It will eliminate the sloppy feel and make it feel more solid. To me, having a good direct kind of feeling to the car just makes it so much more enjoyable to drive it.

http://www.rcautoworksstore.com/cut/...roducts_id=360

darnizzle8805

iTrader: (1)

I didn't think those things were still being sold. My joint isn't sloppy, I rebuild it but the shaft that protrudes from the transmission that the change rod attaches to, that connection has some play. But again I'm not bothered by that, it's the side to side play that I am worried about. Since the FLP is supposed to be like stock, last I remembered the stock feel sucked, the reason why I bought a short shifter anyway. The reason why I am interested is because I have to lean forward out of my driving position when shift in into an odd gear mainly 3/5.

m4xwellmurd3r

Dude if side to side play is the issue then its almost 100% the change rod thats an issue. YES its a readily available part. I JUST ordered an Itr change rod from acura oem last week. It was actually shipped from the honda warehouse.

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

You want part number 13.

I did a little research and for da integras, its best to keep the stock stabalizer bar and just use the change rod. Get a new bitch pin too

darnizzle8805

iTrader: (1)

My current side play is not an issue. I am worried that the FLP will cause it to be worse since it is so long. My "bitch" pin is also tight. But what it keeps the change rod attached to has some slight play but I don't think that it an issue, if I need to I could drill the holes bigger on the change rod and use a larger pin or bolt. Its so slight I was never worried with it. I am wondering if the bushing that is in the end of the stabilizer rod would relieve some side to side play. Hence why I asked about the M-factory bushing kit. Or by some off chance that the mount in the change rod would make play worse with a longer shifter. Or a combo of the solid change rod mount and the M-factory stabilizer bushing.

m4xwellmurd3r

Yeah I suppose some stiffer bushings on the stabilizer bar on the rear mount could help. I dont kmow if making it solid would be a good idea though since the stabalizer bar needs to have some compliance for the engine moving under torque.

I also dont suggest drilling out and bolting the change rod to the transmissions shift rod. Bolts are good for tension, not so much shearing. I suggested a new spring pin since its not a bad idea to replace them every once in a while.

Maybe you can try getting under the car and have someone wag the shifter side to side while its in gear to see where any play is coming from. It might be easier to address what should be changed since it sounds like everything is in good shape and you just want to crisp things up a bit more

seelback

I use the b&m spherical shifter with and 3 inch extender with the mfactory bushings and love it. the mfactory bushings are way stiffer than ES. im thinkging about getting the ipg aluminum mount. but with i have and also using the omni power master cylinder i can full throttle shift with no problem and some people think i have a automatic.

this is the shifter

darnizzle8805

iTrader: (1)

My current play is not an issue. I have read some FLP users felt there was a bit too much side to side play. I have a B&M spherical shifter that I put a 3" extention on, well it snapped at the bottom of the threads. I'd love to get it repaired because it was the best shifter I've ever used. But I wanna try something different, hence me wanting to try the FLP. I have ES shifter bushings currently my motor mounts are steel Innovative mounts with 95a urethane inserts. Engine movement is also not an issue.

Thank you seelback for the insight, it's exactly what I am looking for. First hand experience with the bushings. That alone helps me make up my mind on going with the M-factory bushings and the IPG mount when I purchase the FLP shifter, instead of me just hoping that they will help.

seelback

no problem, glad i could help. do a follow up write after you install and try out the new parts. sorry to hear about the shifter breaking, im sure you can get it fixed if you decide you dont like the flp.

darnizzle8805

iTrader: (1)

I've ordered the FLP shifter, M-factory bushings, as well as the IPG solid "bushing". Of course I'll install all of the M-factory bushings, and then swap out the IPG rear bushing and see how I like it.

I also ordered a new basket from work for the pivot, and I'll try out both my Skunk2 shift **** as well as the 2013 SI shift **** and see how the shifter feels with a weighted **** vs a stock one.

darnizzle8805

iTrader: (1)

I've received both my IPG bushing and M-factory bushing set. The FLP shifter is 4-5 weeks out to be shipped, I am somewhat pissed, but oh well.

darnizzle8805

iTrader: (1)

I also ordered a type r change rod, the Gsr change rod is more expensive. Does anyone know the differences between the 2 besides the fact that the type r change rod is zinc coated? So I've heard.

darnizzle8805

iTrader: (1)

Finally received my FLP shifter. I installed it today, I must say the feel is very alien. It'll definitely take some getting used to. I also installed the IPG solid rear mount, M-factory front solid bushings, brand new change ball seal and rubber( pivot point), ITR change rod, and a brand new spring pin(roll/bitch pin).

Bently_Coop

How is the setup working for you?

darnizzle8805

iTrader: (1)

Works great, very smooth, very precise I'd I dare say. And no obnoxious vibration noises from the IPG solid mount. The shifter took a little getting used to, but I love it way more than a short shifter honestly. My only qualm is the shifter sits about 2 inches higher than I'd like. It's an easy fix, but I'm too lazy to do anything about it.