ESP.net

I am far from a electrical wiz and am just making sure I am doing this right.

Have 340 Stealth in tank Fuel Pump. I am using the Stealth upgrade wiring kit as well.

+ 12v constant to 30 on relay: I have this coming off battery with the supplied 30 amp breaker inline then to 30 on relay. Breaker in engine bay. 10 gauge wire supplied

12v coming off of stock fuel pump wire that goes to 86. Now this can still be the factory wire gauge size which is like 18-20 to 86 on relay?

87 goes to positive on fuel pump. However Fuel Pump pigtail wires are like 16 gauge. Do I just take the 10 gauge and connect it to the positive wire on the Fuel Pump pigtail? Even though its going to smaller wire in pigtail? Or do I use 1/4 female yellow connector and connect directly to fuel pump with no fuel pump connector/pigtail and by pass?

Same question for grounding the Fuel Pump gauge 10 but use the factory 18-20 gauge pigtail/connector or?

Last thing chassis ground 85 the kit has connector for smaller gauge wire 18-20. Or shall I use 10 gauge for that?

lovehondas

good questions I would like to know as well.

ESP.net

So I have done some homework with less questions.

Seems the first batch of Aeromotvie 340 Stealths had reverse polarity so positive and negative had to be switched? However this has changed it appers from all units from 2012 and newer. Easy way to tell if you have old one is one of the end cap moldings will be White. Newer ones with fixed are both Red cap moldings.

I also purchased the Aeromotive 340 wire relay kit: Which their pigtail provided uses like 15 gauge. Well all instructions of Aero say need to be 10 gauge. Which also leads to a question. Pull out the terminals out of the Aero pigtail clip, hope it doesnt break the connector and re do it with 10 gauge (soder on). Or just use 2 female terminals. Terminal would be easier. However I would be worry that it would come undone or loose after time. So... soder the terminal on to + and - post for good... work?

First picture shows how to get the 10 gauge wires into the tank:

I have talked to a few in the know and agree this is one method. Use a ss stud, nuts, washers, and a rubber grommet. Key is to make sure the grommet fits tightly on the stud. Which I used 6mm stud, nuts and washer. Rubber is hard to get on the stud which is good. 1 step further is put some sealant on the threads that will be where the rubber grommet goes for the final time and ontop of the grommet. High Temp. Silicon will work.

Use a heat shrink terminal the so this ensures the plasic of the cheap terminal wont fall off/break off/ and create a tighter seal in the tank.

So next questions are how to wire it up and where and what gauge to use:

Below are 2 methods that I have found. It seems best way to get power is not the battery but the alternator post.

The Last picture is how Xenocron recommends to be setup. So the positive and negative being switched around from and between 85 and 86 should not matter?
Lastly seems Xenocron uses stock wire size on both 86 and 85... is that okay? Or do I need to use 10/12 on ground on 85 like first picture shows?

ESP.net

???

stenseltizm

stock wires to trigger the relay are fine as they are no longer carrying current, your new 10 ga wires will be carrying the current.

switching pos and neg on the relay coil will not matter, either of your schematics will work.

One thing I have always been told was to run your 10 ga chassis ground from the pump all the way to the engine block and not the unibody near the tank. The reason was you can only supply the pump with as much current as you can carry away, and an old spot-welded unibody car is not always the best conductor.

crazes

I would look at repositioning the black wire away from the that contact, it will chafe through very easily. You could always put some electrical tape on it to protect it.

0xenocron

I've always done it right near the fuel pump to keep line length down, but I see what you are saying and agree to the point where if you thought your frame wasn't good enough, you could zip screw into the body near the pump, ground it there along with running another wire all the way to battery ground or to the chassis point where the battery does ground for peace of mind from that same zip screw point.

ESP.net

Thanks guys far from an electrical guru!

ESP.net

Here is what I ended up doing:

Aeromotive pigtail uses 16-18 gauge I believe. Instructions say it needs to be 10 gauge. The pins were pretty brutal and not coming out of the pigtail so I took the wires off left terminal in it. De-sized the 10 gauge to fit in the terminal. Wrapped out of the way for the moment. Then sodered what wires would fit in the terminal. Simple heat wire up just enough so I didn't melt the plastic connector. Then dab soder into the terminal. Then wrapped excess wire around then sodered throughly. Then double heat shrinked. Then with larger heat shrink kept both wires together. I understand that its cutting the wire size just a tiny bit at the terminal. But I would imagine this wont hurt.

I also found the Relay pigtail at O reily's. It has 14 gauge wires I believe. The 2 connectors for positive going In and Out I was able to de pin. Once I de pinned them. I cut the wire about an inch and half down then stripped the wire about 1/8th from the terminal and double backed on it. Sodered that. Then sodered to the 10 gauge on each terminal and heat shrinked...

stenseltizm

I don't trust the frame for anything that is important such as stable fuel pressure or engine sensors etc.
My projects are old and cheap (rusted) enough that chassis is ruled out for anything other than lighting or non critical items.
I don't even bother to zip a screw to the chassis back by the pump, I just run two 10 ga MTW wires when I'm installing a relay.

I'm also weird in the way I look at the battery.
I look at it as a power source to start the car, and after that as a draw as it charges.
I consider the alternator as the power source so I ground to the block as the closest thing.