sp00led

Last time I was at the track I noticed my transmission acting up. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd (9000-9500rpm) it was like I hit a wall. It simply wouldn't go into gear unless I let the rpms fall down a good bit which of course killed my run.

I notice it doesn't feel so smooth on the 1st to 2nd shift or 3rd to 4th either. All of this results in me having to slowly and carefuly shift into gear which is causing me to lose boost and is hurting my ETs.

If I drive the car on the street and don't rev it past 7k rpm it shifts fine. No grinds, shifts smooth other then the harsh engagment of my ACT sprung 6puck/xtream pp.

So since this is happening the last pass I made I went to hit 3rd gear and I mishifted bad. It grinded some and when I got back to the trailer I noticed it didn't want to go into reverse. I had to force it into gear and it hasn't felt right since.

Clutch is still holding strong after 8k hard miles. The only thing I've noticed is a slight squel when I have it in netural and my foot is off the clutch. I was told this was the TO bearing going bad.

Just looking for some feedback before I drop the tranny.

turbotypeR@SPEC

There are several things that could cause that. Where is the pedal when the clutch engauges? Are you full throttle shifting? If so, exactly how are you doing it? What shifter setup are you using?

sp00led

The clutch will start to grab about 1-2" off the floor. It starts to slip with about the same amount of travel (maybe a little more, say 3-4") when you press in the pedal.

Never full throttle shifted, stock shifter, gears etc. Only tranny upgrade is a quaife.

After the 3rd gear mishift you can definantly tell something got messed up in regards to reverse. It only effected reverse though and the more I use reverse the smoother it feels going in/out.

I'm not 100% sure that it isn't clutch related at this point.


Modified by sp00led at 2:04 PM 9/15/2008

nonvtecallmotor

The clutch is the problem. If a sprung hub will hold the power that will fix it or get a twin disk.

sp00led

I had the non-sprung ACT 6 puck before this one. Care to enlighten me on why the springs in the disc are the problem? Both discs are rated at 408lb/tq.

turbotypeR@SPEC

check your slave cylinder and make sure it is not pushing fluid past the o ring. this is a common problem. take the boost off and see if it is wet. if so, replace it. you can also check the masterunder the dash and make sure it does not have a slow leak where the rod goes in from the pedal. i am not saying that is the problem, but i woul eliminate that first
i have had a problem before where i was actually jamming it in gear before the clutch was disengauged and i was tearing up the syncros. i fixed this problem by switching to a 3/4" master. it allows the clutch to disengauge quicker. sometimes, you just can't disengauge the clutch as fast as you can pull the shifter. another idea would be to not use a short shifter.

sp00led

thanks for the advice. I'll inspect the master/slave and report back.

b18c1Monster

i had the same exact issues.car would drive fine normally the when revving high wouldnt go into third at all. then when rpm dropped a little it would go in with a slight gring. turned out to be my 3rd gear synchros. so i changed all synchros and my third gear now its perfect

Antilag

i'll put money on the 3rd gear synchro or the dog teeth on the 3rd gear. But unfortunatly if you need a new 3rd gear synchro. To buy the 3rd gear synchro you would need to buy the 3/4 slider hub and synchro assembly which costs over 200 ish.

sp00led

Master and slave cyl looked good when I inspected them last night.

I guess i'll have to drop the tranny and crack it open to see how everything looks. I'm just trying to avoid throwing money at this thing only to find out that wasn't the fix. I hope you are right antilag and its something obvious. I'll post up once I find out.

V-SPEC 1

try and change out you pressure plate. If you have one stock laying around, try putting that on, it should fix your problem.

turbotypeR@SPEC

I would check the syncros while you have he tranny out. I had a simular problem when I was full throttle shifting with the stock master. It turned out to be the syncro hub was burred up pretty bad. I cleaned off the burrs with a dremel tool and it shifted great.

sp00led

Just a little update. Tranny's pulled. First thing I noticed was the pilot bearing just sitting inside the pressure plate. Took the PP off and the ball bearings came raining out. ACT 6 puck was shot (8k miles). Each puck was missing 40-60% of the friction material. Flywheel is going to need resurfacing.

I'm going to replace the slave/master cyl just cause they're orginal and the car has 108k miles, 20k which were abusive. I think I might even have a small leak on the slave cyl from an o-ring.

Digging in to the tranny shortly. Figures crossed, I don't need those costly 1/2 and 3/4 sleeve sets...

There's hope I'll have this thing running at IFO in montgomery afterall.

1992Si

I must be missing something here, how does the pilot bearing get from the flywheel to inside the PP ?

I understand about pieces of the bearing being in the bottom of the PP

Make me wonder if a ball bearing type pilot bushing is the way to go.

Was the ACT 6 puck a race disc or a street disc. The race disc will wear out quickly on the street.

Exedy sent us the wrong one once, when Ryan talked to them, they sent us the correct set up for free.

sp00led

It was a ACT sprung 6 puck disc with xtream pp. AI4-XTG6 to be exact. I thought ACT only made a 6 puck disc either sprung or unsprung.

I'm not sure either... I was curious if it had been that way or after we removed the tranny was when it actually fell to peices.

tagperformance

yeah the act 6 puck wears excessively. I had the disc in my car not even 1K miles and it looked like ****. I went and bought a clutchnet 6 puck sprung and couldn't be happier.

boostedcivicsir

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtecallmotor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The clutch is the problem. If a sprung hub will hold the power that will fix it or get a twin disk.</TD></TR></TABLE>

only read to t his point.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sp00led &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the non-sprung ACT 6 puck before this one. Care to enlighten me on why the springs in the disc are the problem? Both discs are rated at 408lb/tq.</TD></TR></TABLE>

a single disc when you push the clutch, has less mass and stops faster than a heavier or twin disc, even though it is disengaged, the inertia will help line up the teeth on the syncro and dog teeth on the gear.

sp00led

Well the verdict on my tranny is in.

One of the bearings is shot. $40

2 sleeve is hurt BAD so that means I need a 1/2 set. $320

3/4 are usable but show signs of wear, it would be just a matter of time... $190

5/R are both hurt... $150

New set of seals $50

= $700-800 in parts for rebuild. Boo.... I need a

rota92

Just buy 2 trannies and use them for parts and have spares/cases lol