Degreeing Cams
Degreeing Cams
12-16-2008, 10:37 AM
#2
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Degree...........It is not about power. All your engine math needs to be accurate in the first place. Once that is correct, you can start playing with them.
Any changes as far as deck height, headgasket thickness, head machined down, will change the relationship of the block vs head. This can only be corrected by Degreeing the cams.
Any changes as far as deck height, headgasket thickness, head machined down, will change the relationship of the block vs head. This can only be corrected by Degreeing the cams.
12-16-2008, 01:32 PM
#4
Degree...........It is not about power. All your engine math needs to be accurate in the first place. Once that is correct, you can start playing with them.
Any changes as far as deck height, headgasket thickness, head machined down, will change the relationship of the block vs head. This can only be corrected by Degreeing the cams.
Any changes as far as deck height, headgasket thickness, head machined down, will change the relationship of the block vs head. This can only be corrected by Degreeing the cams.
Exactly. Some popular "shelf" cams wont even start the car or idle at 0 / 0 degrees. All you need is centerline for each, and a degree set.
12-16-2008, 01:45 PM
#6
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i dont stick to traditional ways of degreeing cams, i usually measure how much clearance i have with v to p and v to v. when assembling the motor, then i know how far i can go then just degreeing to spec sheets of a cam card.
what a cam card wont tell you is who made the piston and who machined the heads.
my.02
what a cam card wont tell you is who made the piston and who machined the heads.
my.02
12-16-2008, 02:07 PM
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Trending Topics
12-16-2008, 02:13 PM
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i dont stick to traditional ways of degreeing cams, i usually measure how much clearance i have with v to p and v to v. when assembling the motor, then i know how far i can go then just degreeing to spec sheets of a cam card.
what a cam card wont tell you is who made the piston and who machined the heads.
my.02
what a cam card wont tell you is who made the piston and who machined the heads.
my.02
12-16-2008, 02:43 PM
#9
Honda-Tech Member
sorry j, i get that all the time. lol
i was implying what you said but i always like to know what kind of clearances i have inside the motor valve to valve and valve to piston.
then degree the cams and you have piece of mind how far you can go adv and ret. without getting into problems. make sense ?
i was implying what you said but i always like to know what kind of clearances i have inside the motor valve to valve and valve to piston.
then degree the cams and you have piece of mind how far you can go adv and ret. without getting into problems. make sense ?
12-16-2008, 07:47 PM
#12
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100% degree cams is a must, we change stuff on the power curve of the Cobalt and believe us it helps. We change cams we degree more, it helps our car 2step etc....degeeeeeee
12-17-2008, 10:22 AM
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12-17-2008, 10:52 AM
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Question for you guys, i'm confused about something in step 3 from the 2 links posted above (thanks for the links btw!):
Step 3: Rotate the crankshaft. When the cam starts to
open the valve, the dial indicator will show the amount
of valve lift. Rotate the crankshaft and stop when the
pointer is pointing at the specified peak lift/center line
position. Loosen the cam gear bolts and rotate the
camshaft until the indicator is showing that the cam is at
peak lift. Tighten the cam gear bolts.
Now, am i supposed to move the cam and make the cam gear line up to 0 (zero)? and the pointer they're refering to is the pointer on the degree wheel i assume?
sorry if it's an obvious answer...i'm a bit confused by the wording and what it's refering to.
Step 3: Rotate the crankshaft. When the cam starts to
open the valve, the dial indicator will show the amount
of valve lift. Rotate the crankshaft and stop when the
pointer is pointing at the specified peak lift/center line
position. Loosen the cam gear bolts and rotate the
camshaft until the indicator is showing that the cam is at
peak lift. Tighten the cam gear bolts.
Now, am i supposed to move the cam and make the cam gear line up to 0 (zero)? and the pointer they're refering to is the pointer on the degree wheel i assume?
sorry if it's an obvious answer...i'm a bit confused by the wording and what it's refering to.
12-17-2008, 03:41 PM
#23
Question for you guys, i'm confused about something in step 3 from the 2 links posted above (thanks for the links btw!):
Step 3: Rotate the crankshaft. When the cam starts to
open the valve, the dial indicator will show the amount
of valve lift. Rotate the crankshaft and stop when the
pointer is pointing at the specified peak lift/center line
position. Loosen the cam gear bolts and rotate the
camshaft until the indicator is showing that the cam is at
peak lift. Tighten the cam gear bolts.
Now, am i supposed to move the cam and make the cam gear line up to 0 (zero)? and the pointer they're refering to is the pointer on the degree wheel i assume?
sorry if it's an obvious answer...i'm a bit confused by the wording and what it's refering to.
Step 3: Rotate the crankshaft. When the cam starts to
open the valve, the dial indicator will show the amount
of valve lift. Rotate the crankshaft and stop when the
pointer is pointing at the specified peak lift/center line
position. Loosen the cam gear bolts and rotate the
camshaft until the indicator is showing that the cam is at
peak lift. Tighten the cam gear bolts.
Now, am i supposed to move the cam and make the cam gear line up to 0 (zero)? and the pointer they're refering to is the pointer on the degree wheel i assume?
sorry if it's an obvious answer...i'm a bit confused by the wording and what it's refering to.
basically what your doing is turning the crank to the correct degree for the cam's centerline, then you will loosen the cam gear bolts and turn the cam to peak lift. you will know you have reached peak lift when the dial indicator has stopped and wants to go back in the other direction. you may have some dwell at that point, so you will split the difference. then tighten the cam gear bolts. rotate the motor again and recheck your findings
make sense?
