IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

can a B16 S4C LSD fit into a GSR S80 tranny? im thinking of going Gsr tranny now as i got fed up from all the wheel spin on the street with the S4C

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

you think MT 225/50/15 MT street radials are that bad on the streets? if yes then what would you recommend?

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

need more info about this guys! i hear that they are interchangeable as long i use their matching FD with them....is this true?

pumafeet10

Have u measured outside size of the tires to make sure they are the same?

boostlsveg

iTrader: (12)

yes it will work but u will need the diff and countershaft and ring gear from either b16 or ls. B16 if u want the 4.4

hondatech8798

iTrader: (2)

B16 and gsr are both 4.4 final so u can swap the gsr diff I to the b16 trans without changing the counter shaft, they both have the same counter and ring gear...
Now if u want to use the Ls final then u will have to use the Ls counter as ring gear..

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

I dont understand why you mentioned checking the tire size.please elaborate

redboost10

take a tape measure and wrap it around the tire when at the specified psi. slicks are notorious for being the same size, but having variation in their circumference.

pumafeet10

sorry read it after i posted and thought it might confuse, do what redboost says, just to rule it out

Chris_N

Hi,

I have had the exact same problem on my car.

I've been chasing the exact same behavior for a while.

The car would just be scary (stability-wise) when in boost, but OK otherwise.

I've redone the alignement a few times, changed the suspension bushings, etc...

For packaging reasons, I had removed the power steering pump, but kept the PS rack.

Roughly how PS racks work is that the hydraulic pressure (PS assist) is applied based on the driver torque request, measured by the rotational deflection of a torque rod (or T-rod).

The more torque you apply on the steering wheel --> the more you twist the T-rod --> the higher the fluid pressure applied in the rack.

The thing is that the T-rod is pretty soft (like 10 N.m / deg of twist), but has hard stops after a given deflection.

With a PS rack but no PS pump, you actually have a very soft (not sloppy, just soft) steering system around center.

With boost on a FWD, you have torque steer, which actually steer the wheels even if you hold on hard to the steering wheel, as there's only the T-rod stiffness (or softness for that matter) between the steering wheel and the wheels.

Moreover, when you have enough power, its very easy to have one wheel slip a bit while the other grips, exacerbing the torque steer.

In my case, I got the pinion out of the rack and welded the T-rod upper and lower parts together. Bam, problem solved.

I suggest you either do that, or switch to a manual rack, which has no flexy T-rod.

I had no idea until a friend who worked on steering systems at Chrysler told me it was the problem.

Hope this helps,

Christian

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

do you have pics of where exactly on the rack pinion to weld? i tried to get the manual rack from the dealer and unfortunately they are discontinued now and didnt have any other choice but to get a new PS rack. I didnt even want to put anything aftermarket on my car, so i got an OEM re-manufactured one from the dealer. do i need to remove the pinion from the rack to get it welded or i can do this from the outside?

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

Chris can you tell to me which part you are referring to as the T-ROD from the diagrams below?

Diagram 1:


Diagram 2:


Diagram 3:

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

Can someone check the diagrams above and let me know which part Chris is referring to as the T-ROD? i don't know if he meant the Tie-Rod as he mentioned welding the pinion so he probably referring to some other part i'm not aware of.

Chris_N

Hi,

Sorry for the late reply.

It would be the shaft without part # in the #14 assembly.

If you open the rack, you'll see what I mean. That shaft is actually made of at least 3 parts: the upper, the lower, and the T-rod in the middle.

The upper and lower parts can spin independantly of each other, but only for a few degrees.

The T-rod is what is twisted and allows to meter the assist level.

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

This was my solution a dogbox custom 5 spd with a new PS steerig rack that is power deleted and using a breather

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)