Sklute

I have a 1988 Accord that the ignition wont shut off I disconnected the ignition switch thinking that would break the connection if it was the switch that is bad, still continues to run, any ideas? the car is carbureted not fuel injected ...

ej1995

Did you disconnect the ignition lock cylinder or the actual electrical ignition switch? They are two seperate pieces in most cars.

lostforawhile

if you unplug the ignition switch itself, it should shut off, there is no main relay or anything in the carb car, if it still runs make sure no one tried to install a remote start or anything, go to the threegeez wiki, and you can download the entire electrical troubleshooting manual for free, as well as the service manuals, several members went to a lot of trouble to scan the manuals for others with these cars, PM me if you are still having trouble, I have that entire electrical system memorized, also check threegeez.com thats the main source of information on these cars, 1986 to 89

Sklute

Yes I unhooked the electrical part of the ignition switch not the key tumbler and yes it continued to run I cant figure out what relay/switch that could be causing my problem. I have talked to many "Honda Experts" and they all stand and scratch their heads when I mention it is a carbureted car they all say its the EFI relay but it doesn't have one

lostforawhile

there is no other relay, it's power into the switch from the underhood ignition link, right to the key switch, heavy white wire, if you unplugged the switch there should be no way power should be able to reach the coil, it sounds like there are the remains of a hack wiring job in there somewhere

lostforawhile

it's fuse 25 in the underhood fuse box, which is 40 amps, goes straight to the ignition switch, then black and yellow out from the switch to the coil, black and yellow wire passes through the fuse box and other fuses are tapped from it, the only think I can think of other then wiring hacks is there is an issue in the fuse box itself back feeding power into the yellow black wire

lostforawhile

black and yellow from the switch feeds fuse 1-2-3-4 , pull that 40 amp link in the underhood fuse box, then test the black/yellow wire at the coil to see if you can still measure power

Sklute

I pulled 40 amp fuse and I still have power to coil on black and yellow wire pulled fuse box out and apart and cant see anything that looks out of normal no areas that have been hot or melted etc....

lostforawhile

if you pulled that fuse and power is feeding back into the coil wire, something is melted or shorted somewhere, I wonder if the fuse box is somehow internally shorting from another circuit, I would send you a spare fuse box to test, but I cant find my spare, the heavy white wire from that 40 amp link, enters the car in the passenger side kick panel area, near the blower, goes across the car and then into the fuse box, where it goes to the connector for the key switch to plug in, at the top of the fuse box should be three unused heavy pins, sometimes people add accessories off of these, as they will take a female spade terminal, are all three of these open? or is anything connected to them? if you look at the fuse box, you should see them

lostforawhile

did you download the manual yet? you'll need some diagrams to do some tests, if you have the fuse box out and unplugged, you are going to connect one lead to the terminal for the white lead where it would come into the fuse box, then start testing the other fuses, terminals etc, to see if there is any continuity, there shouldn't be any, except for one terminal at the key switch plug, that harness plugs in, supplies power from the 40 amp ignition fuse, then it's internally connected to the one pin that feeds the ignition switch harness. The circuit for ignition is pretty basic on the carb car, any continuity between any other fuse or pin indicates the fuse box is somehow bridging power into that circuit from somewhere else

lostforawhile

I'm trying to isolate the issue to the fuse box or the harness