1969 S800M Coupe.
#376
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Re: 1969 S800M Coupe.
They do not fit. Too thin, too little flange, too large. No matter how I cut and bend they do not work. A proper 45mm should do the job though... I think I will just paint the stuff inside my hole black and leave it at that.
Out with Honda friends - NSX-R. Neko
Out with Honda friends - NSX-R. Neko
#377
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Re: 1969 S800M Coupe.
That's a great photo Neko.......... the NSX looks small next to your typical American performance car (Corvette, Camaro, etc) but next to the S800 it looks huge. Some of that is the angle I know, do you have any frontal shots of the same two?
I was hoping you had found the correct grommet for our cars......the search goes on!
I was hoping you had found the correct grommet for our cars......the search goes on!
#379
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Re: 1969 S800M Coupe.
No more NSX pics, at least for now...
Just a few recent tweaks. New fuel filter, and some Doctor Yellow socks for fluid reservoir seepage. Though since the T-bolts and overhaul, they remain dry. Lots of driving though!
Chasing my friends' GT-B and C4:
Just a few recent tweaks. New fuel filter, and some Doctor Yellow socks for fluid reservoir seepage. Though since the T-bolts and overhaul, they remain dry. Lots of driving though!
Chasing my friends' GT-B and C4:
#380
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Re: 1969 S800M Coupe.
Keep and eye on that plastic filter Neko, I nearly had a roadside BBQ when a similar product came apart. I use the aluminum ones for there durability/safety.
Love the reservoir socks, you need some Mugen socks to keep the Honda theme. Lol!
Love the reservoir socks, you need some Mugen socks to keep the Honda theme. Lol!
#382
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Re: 1969 S800M Coupe.
As long as it's decent quality construction, any of the small inline aluminum filters should work. Even a aluminum motorcycle filter will work, assuming it's properly rated pressure wise. Does your fuel have any ethanol in it? Here we have fuel with up to 10% ethanol which is highly hydrophilic.
I run 96 octane leaded racing fuel so I don't have any issues in the S800, even so I change out the fuel filter regularly.
I run 96 octane leaded racing fuel so I don't have any issues in the S800, even so I change out the fuel filter regularly.
#384
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Thread Starter
Re: 1969 S800M Coupe.
As long as it's decent quality construction, any of the small inline aluminum filters should work. Even a aluminum motorcycle filter will work, assuming it's properly rated pressure wise. Does your fuel have any ethanol in it? Here we have fuel with up to 10% ethanol which is highly hydrophilic.
I run 96 octane leaded racing fuel so I don't have any issues in the S800, even so I change out the fuel filter regularly.
I run 96 octane leaded racing fuel so I don't have any issues in the S800, even so I change out the fuel filter regularly.
Chasing a friend in his C4, shot from a Skyline GT-B... Damn that GT-B has long legs! It tops out at 180km or more. So we are told. Neko
Last edited by Kuroneko; 07-13-2016 at 03:07 AM.
#386
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Re: 1969 S800M Coupe.
Thanks!
Only via: www.instagram.com/japanesenostalgiccar/, where the film stuff is generally me. But I am half of www.carsonfilm.tumblr.com if you get desperate for filmy goodness...
Only via: www.instagram.com/japanesenostalgiccar/, where the film stuff is generally me. But I am half of www.carsonfilm.tumblr.com if you get desperate for filmy goodness...
#387
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Re: 1969 S800M Coupe.
More here: GRAND TOURING: Mazda Hakone Turnpike and Izu Skyline | Japanese Nostalgic Car
See ya! Neko
See ya! Neko
#392
Re: 1969 S800M Coupe.
Awesome shots as usual. Thanks for sharing.
Seeing your pics and auto adventures makes me want my car on the road so much more. Can't wait until I get it finished!
Seeing your pics and auto adventures makes me want my car on the road so much more. Can't wait until I get it finished!
#393
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Thread Starter
Re: 1969 S800M Coupe.
Thanks!
750km since rebuild and time to recheck cam clearance... All good, and a small hole in the handmade stainless headers fixed at the same time, and new gaskets at both ends:
Also, the Coupe is mostly the same as a Roadster, so most parts are interchangeable. However, with my fuel tank sender going a bit flaky sometimes, then all the time, it was time for a replacement. The fuel tank sender unfortunately, is not one of the interchangeable parts. Old flaky Coupe sender on the left, new Roadster sender on the right:
The longer arm of course due to the Coupe's upright position of the tank, and not the lay down position in the Roadster. Solution: chop the new sender arm float off, and re-attach the longer Coupe arm:
After first testing the electric performance by just plugging the new sender into the loom and watch the fuel gauge go from E to F while lifting arm. Then drill out the spot welds, open elbow strengthener, and insert new sender's short arm into slot. Re-close tabs, and pound in a few copper rivets:
The new arm needed to be bent a few times to clear the in-tank baffles, but refilling the tank in increments with the drained fuel showed the gauge now reading smooth and accurately over the range. A full reading happens a little sooner than actual full, but I intended this with the arm bends so I get an accurate to empty reading. Neko
750km since rebuild and time to recheck cam clearance... All good, and a small hole in the handmade stainless headers fixed at the same time, and new gaskets at both ends:
Also, the Coupe is mostly the same as a Roadster, so most parts are interchangeable. However, with my fuel tank sender going a bit flaky sometimes, then all the time, it was time for a replacement. The fuel tank sender unfortunately, is not one of the interchangeable parts. Old flaky Coupe sender on the left, new Roadster sender on the right:
The longer arm of course due to the Coupe's upright position of the tank, and not the lay down position in the Roadster. Solution: chop the new sender arm float off, and re-attach the longer Coupe arm:
After first testing the electric performance by just plugging the new sender into the loom and watch the fuel gauge go from E to F while lifting arm. Then drill out the spot welds, open elbow strengthener, and insert new sender's short arm into slot. Re-close tabs, and pound in a few copper rivets:
The new arm needed to be bent a few times to clear the in-tank baffles, but refilling the tank in increments with the drained fuel showed the gauge now reading smooth and accurately over the range. A full reading happens a little sooner than actual full, but I intended this with the arm bends so I get an accurate to empty reading. Neko
#395
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Re: 1969 S800M Coupe.
Drive, and things will break. After adjusting the cam clearances, we forgot to tighten the cam tensioner bolt. Crossing the Rainbow Bridge this week, it ejected itself into the fan, ricochetted off the fan housing, then hit the fan again and was powered into the radiator core. Holing one of the lower coils. The radiator promptly spilled all its green guts, temp gauge rapidly went off the scale just as I pulled into a convenient PA.
Temp radiator from a friend installed last night, and old one off the get re-cored. Local advice has the racing aluminum radiators taking longer to warm up, and not as good as the conventional type in traffic. OK for racing though... Neko
Temp radiator from a friend installed last night, and old one off the get re-cored. Local advice has the racing aluminum radiators taking longer to warm up, and not as good as the conventional type in traffic. OK for racing though... Neko
#397
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Re: 1969 S800M Coupe.
Neko,
You are a lucky boy. I'd imagine the cam chain would have been very rattly as the tension was let off. I guess that shows how noisy these little machines are. If it had jumped a tooth on the cam who knows what could have happened
You are a lucky boy. I'd imagine the cam chain would have been very rattly as the tension was let off. I guess that shows how noisy these little machines are. If it had jumped a tooth on the cam who knows what could have happened
#398
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Thread Starter
Re: 1969 S800M Coupe.
Agree! It could have been a lot worse. It wasn't really any noisier than tight it seems. I was likely saved from further damage by the cam chain being brand new - no lateral slack, tight links etc.
Taking the cams out for adjusting, just so the chain could clear the cam sprockets, required not only the removal of the head guide roller between the cams, but also pulling the cam tensioner spring out heavily. Even then getting enough slack to jump the chain takes some wiggle.
With the head guide roller in place, and the spring on normal it appears jumping - at least for me - wasn't likely. That doesn't stop the sphincter puckering through!
Taking the cams out for adjusting, just so the chain could clear the cam sprockets, required not only the removal of the head guide roller between the cams, but also pulling the cam tensioner spring out heavily. Even then getting enough slack to jump the chain takes some wiggle.
With the head guide roller in place, and the spring on normal it appears jumping - at least for me - wasn't likely. That doesn't stop the sphincter puckering through!
#399
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Thread Starter
Re: 1969 S800M Coupe.
Recored radiator, and refitting on Thursday.
With a friend's S500.
Fitted, and a test drive through the Yamate Tunnel and Ohashi Loop:
Neko