Chinamandrift

hello i really do appreciate the information i found on the other post... really great stuff. I too am doing an install on this alarm system. Id like to understand some of the uncommon wires and unused ones. There is a few im very curious what its for and how it works. Ive searched everywhere and no one gives a good explanation except "here are the wires and colors go match them"

im curious about :
-h1/4 white/brown park light isolation wire
-h1/6 ground when armed output

-h2/1 pink/white ign/flex relay out
-h2/9 dark/blue status out
-h2/10 pink ign out
-h2/18 violet yellow starter out
-h2/21 white/blue remote start/ turbo timer activation input
-h2/22 orange acc out

-h3/2 red/white fused ign2/flex relay in
-h3/7 pink/white ign2 out
-h3/8 pink/black flex relay in

i also have an after market stereo.. im seeing that civics dome light needs a relay for H2/7 black/yellow how would i wire that up? do i have to isolate the door switch circuit from the dome light circuit?

my car is a 5 speed. how do i get remote start to know that its a 5 speed? so it dont go plowing through someone house or car if left in gear. i heard of some sort of a relay is needed for my clutch.

im sorry if i have too many questions

any info or help is greatly appreciated

fcm

H1/4 not needed.
H1/6 used for off-board cut relays, [starter cut, fuel pump power cut and so on].


H2/9 used to control bypass module, if needed.
H2/21 input trigger if you have a turbo, and want turbo cool down

I would have to see a wiring diagram for the rest.

For dome litght supervision, H2/7, ground to #30 of relay, 12V+ to #85 of relay, the black/yellow to #86 of relay, and #87 of relay to dome light trigger, same place you connect the alarms door trigger lead to.

The 5704 has a "ready mode" before turning ign. off, step on foot brake, set hand brake, take foot off foot brake, turn ign. off, [engine will continue running get out of car close door and arm alarm, engine will turn off, as long as a door has not been opened [or alarm disarmed I think on the 5704] the car will remote start. 94

Chinamandrift

on H1/6, dont the alarm unit already do a starter cut with remote start? because we have to cut the starter wire then wire starter and key side. Do you mean by additional cut relay ?

when i got to my wires door trigger was wired to dome trigger. i separated them and wired door trigger to 2/6 door trigger input. then i left dome trigger open because i wasnt sure how to wire it up. can i still keep door trigger and dome trigger together ? because the dome trigger is always hot i wasnt sure if it will burn anything up. On the install guide it shows 2/6 "(-)door trigger input (N/C or N/O )" there is no mA rating on it but H2/7 "(-) 200mA dome light super vision"

on the ready mode, which wire should be wired to my hand brake? i currently have the hand brake wired to H2/2 neutral safety input. Is there any other special wires i need for ready mode?

thanks for your reply this is soo helpful .. looking forward to perfecting my install

fcm

H1/6 is for EXTRA cut relays, the starter cut, as you say, is "built-in".

The dome lights in our cars are ground "triggered" 12V+ is supplied to the dome light constantly, the pin switches in the doors and the switch on the dome light supply a ground to the dome light to turn it on.

For the alarms door trigger input, [door neg.(-) trigger] it is connected to this ground "supply" to the dome light, so when a door is opened and the pin switch supplies a ground to the dome light and the alarm, turning on the dome light and triggering the alarm, [if armed], there is no mA rating on the alarms door trigger lead because it is an input, the 200mA rating on the dome light supervision lead is there because it is an output, the dome light draws more then 200mA so a relay is needed.

Because you want to turn on the dome light, [dome light supervision] you must supply it with a ground, that ground is supplied to the same lead the door pin switches use to supply a ground to the light, which in turn is the same lead the alarms door trigger is connected to.

So wherever you connect the alarms door trigger lead to is the same place you connect the dome light supervision lead to, [with relay in between].

No other leads, [as far as I know] are needed for "ready mode" , again I do not have a wiring diagram for the 5704. 94

Chinamandrift

ohh FCM thanks for the reply

now i have another question... on the stock alarm green plug ....there is a key sense wire. Do i need this wire to be hooked up so the alarm system knows there is a key in the ignition ?

fcm

It depends on the MM&Y of your car and what bypass module you are using.

So start with MM&Y of your car? 94

Chinamandrift

excuse me in still new at these terms What do you mean by bypass module ? my car is a 97 civic ex coupe

Chinamandrift

hello just an update ......i finally got everything wired up

on a honda civic 97 the factory wiring has a plug where the light flash control relay is supposed to go. I went to the junk yard and got a denso relay 4 pin which hooked right up. Then i hooked up to the flashing light control on wire red/white on the green plug behind the radio. on the 5704 unit i moved the fuse to (-).

i tucked most the wires into the factory harness when ever i can. Then went out and bought the insulator wrap and wrapped all exposed wires so it looks OEM. Mounted the 5704 unit in really hidden place where no one can get to it..

so far i checked ..
-door functions
-door lock functions
-dome light functions
-hood pin function
i will check more tomorrow when its bright out

Chinamandrift

ok im trying to get my remote start to work ....i had trouble with MTS to activate ....i finally got it ...its time sensitive when i push the any button on the remote..

now i have a new question

while outside of the car i try to engage remote start. i found out my clutch needs to be pushed down in order for it to work right. what do i wire up to the clutch switch for this to work ?

fcm

Connect the alarms GWR, [ground when running] lead to the output of the CIS.

The GWR will supply the starter relay with the ground the CIS does when you step on the clutch. 94

Chinamandrift

ohh thanks for the reply ...

now another issue ..

1 engine running
2 step on brake
3 set parking brake
4 release brake pedal
5 push any button on the key remote
6 remove key from ignition
7 open door while engine still running and get out
8 close door
9 arm alarm system then the engine turns off

the parking lights flash 5 times to confirm remote start then locks my doors

then on my remote it says "remote start error" 1 sec after it locks my doors

what could the problem be up to the point where i already got my engine to turn off, a confirmation, then a "remote start error" without touching the system or the car? what can disable remote start after its ready ?

i did the trouble shooting procedure to check the flash code ... and i got a 7 flash code that blinked on my control center. rechecked my tach signal and the alarm system sees my tach signal

after researching if door is opened or alarm is triggered it can deactivate the remote start... could it be possible the dome light supervision is interfering with the door switch? since theyre wired together ?

update: pulled the dome light relay to test the door circuit .. and sure enough ...the dome light supervision tells the alarm system that the door is open . Thats why the remote start was deactivated after it engaged ... so grn/red and grn/blk cannot be wired together for remote start with dome light supervision .. i came up with a solution let me know what you think


this way when door opens .... dome light still come on ....but when dome light comes on ... it doesnt trigger door open

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

What kind of relay are you using for the doorlight supervision. Cheaps ones do leak.

Chinamandrift

im using the bosch style ones they are 30a rated. i open them to check the construction. i bought some 5-10 dollar ones and the construction was crappy. Then i got some 2 dollar ones off amazon (5 pack with connector) and these had a promising design on it ... i even checked the continuity of the connection in ohms and they were pretty good ... however... the connectors were really crappy they came with 18 gauge wire and the relay is 30/40 amp rated. i had to modify them.

Chinamandrift

HEy question for FCM ..

on the clutch switch ... instead of using H1/6 orange (-)500mA ground when armed output ... Can i use H2/18 Violet/yellow (-)200mA starter output ? i dont like the fact that the relay is always on when armed

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

The relay is only on when the key turned to start the car. Its powered by the starter wire. Look at the relay and you will see two black wire with one strip and a black with red stripe. Use the orange wire cause of timing issues. Try and use the door trigger at the a pilliar. I never have this issues when going there.

Chinamandrift

the orange wire ... when i arm the alarm system it always grounded until i unarm it... so my relay would continue to be on until i unarm the system. I went ahead and tried the (-) starter output wire and worked like a charm everytime. I tapped the blue/black wire from the starter relay so that it grounds it just like i were to push in my clutch to start.

as for my door trigger ... this 97 honda civic ex is prewired for factory alarm system it has everything except the relays, fuses, and the actual alarm system. so there is a green plug behind the factory stereo that has pretty much every single wire you need. you just have to find where all the relays and fuses plug up and add them.

the only wire it didnt have was power, ground, parking brake, brake switch and tach

fcm

Do not use the orange GWA, there should be a blue "status" output, it is GWR [ground when running]. 94

Chinamandrift

whats the difference between status output and starter output ? status output grounds when car is on ? starter output only when starting isnt it ?

trying to set the motion sensor sensitivity and shock sensor .....

i set it perfectly when no one is around and im at home .... but when i go out to the store it randomly goes off ... and no one is around ... its not windy and there is no loud or hard movement

anyone have tips on setting shock sensor and motion sensor ?

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

Then there is something wrong. The clutch relay gets power when the car is cranking over with the starter. It shares power at the sametime the car is cranked.

As far as the plug behind the radio. Some harnesses have a extra relays that are not on every harness for either a different model car or factory add ons. Reason one why I asked you to try it at the piliar.

fcm

Yes, status output has ground only when in remote start mode.

Mounting a shock sensor is critical to how it will work, Viper shock sensors tend to work best when strapped to a wiring harness, the thicker the better, adjust sensitivity so only warning mode goes off when you kick a tire hard but triggers alarm if you crack a lug nut free.

You said motion sensor, do you mean proximity, [radar] sensor?
If so what make and model?
Most proximity sensors work best when mounted 1/8"-1-4" off a metal surface, grounded to that metal surface, nothing metalic above it.94