Power Wire and Fuses / Holders ("what size do I need?")-Big three upgrade pics and details
04-12-2007, 06:32 PM
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Car stereo fuse holder(what kind to use) And power wire chart(how to figure out size)
There has been many debates on what a fuse holder really is. What kind should I use. What one is better. Each has its own purpose and can be used in any configuration. Some have limits. Many installers use what every they have in there inventory or at the time of install. Its really up to you and your budget. Here are a list of some.
First we will start off with the regular atc fuse.
Good for a entry level sound system. And thats about it. They come in entry level kits for a reason. There cheap. I seen these produce voltage drop because of the fuse holder design. There easy to get water and weather in the case and corrode the terminals. They also have a limit because most atc fuses only go up to a 40 amp. Good thing about these is that you can get fuses anywere for it. And for really cheap. You will most likely never see them in apps under 8 gauge. I could be wrong because of ebay creation.
Next is the maxi fuse
This is the big brother to the atc fuse. Its the same but just really bigger. And can handel more current. I really don't use these much under the hood because of the holder design. Its alot better then the atc design because most are screwed in to there holder depending on the company. You will find these types of fuses on amps sometimes. Like the soundstream units and others
Next is the agu glass fuse holder.
[
These units are good if you buy high quality ones. There are cheap ones out there That can cause voltage drop because of there design. If you look at the cheaper ones. Look into were the fuse is put into. It will most of the time be held into place by a small peice of coiled metal. This keep most of the contact off of the fuse were it is suppose to be. I seen these units fail because of this. Most cheaper unit will arc back and forth between the fuse and the holder. In turn it will weld itself toghter making it unchangeable when the fuse blows. Also on these units the fuse is allways know to look good when it blows. This is because the fuse might not blow in the middle were you can see it. It ends up melting the solder point on the case to the filament. This allways mostly occurs with cheap swapmeet fuses. But it does happen with high quality. Also these are not know as "fusiable links" never have never will.
Next are the mini anl
Nonething really bad to say about them. Its a good solid design. I never seen these fail or create voltage drop. Its a good step up from the agu fuses in a system. Or for anybody thats want to look diffrent. The only problem would be finding fuses for them at a dinky stereo shop or out on the road. The fuses will cost more then a standered agu glass type.
Next is the reg anl
[
Perfect unit to go with if your budget allows. Really good solid design. More fuse contact. Fuse ratings are high on these up to 300 amp. I even seen a 500 amp rating one . But be prepared to shell out big bucks for them. They sell from $13 to 25 buxs a fuse. Ouch costly.
Next is the circuit breaker
I use to use them thinking that I will save money on fuses in the long run. I was using one during a show back in the day. It was not a cheap unit and its was from "PG" for all that know what company that is. Well the dam thing failed and did not trip and nearly burnt down my baby civic. Lets just say the amp was not no longer good and there was burnt wire from the back of the car to the fire wall. And a exploded battery under the hood. Cost more to fix the car then the dam unit was worth. But its better then nonething. If your using one I say back it up with a fuse still. You can never be to safe.
Lastly but not forgotten
Never seen one used in a amp power wire run. Don't think it ever will. Mostly 12-14 gauge wire. But you know people out here. They will try anything.
Hopefully you guys that are not into car audio will take notes on these. And choose your product right. Get the right stuff from the begining and you won't have to do it twice
Now to power wire
Here are a couple of charts to help you guys out to figure out what to run and why.
The chart lacks 2 gauge wire. But with cost almost the same just use 1 gauge. Not all wire is created same. There are alot of fake cheap kits out there. I seen alot on ebay and your local swapmeet. Brand like "amercian power, dhd, hot power" are cheaply made and all you are doing is just buying thin wire with fat coating on it.
Now before you just go throwing in a mega 2000 rms amp and try to rock the stars out the sky. You need to make sure you have enough amps in your charging system to push it. And how many amps that your amp is going to pull to get that power that you need. This part is easy. Take your amps rms and divide it by 12.6 . This will give you the total amps need to run the amp correctly. Give or take. Ie 2000rms/12.6 volts= 158.73 amps. Sorry your teg or civic is not going to do this with a stock charging system. So a bigger battery or two and alternator upgrade will be necessary. You can go to any auto zone or local auto electric shop to find out what condition the alternator is in, and putting out. You need to give or take 10%. a 100 amp alt that put out 95-97 is fine. This is some basic information that will get you by with out going to deep and getting everyone lost. O yea. If your drilling a hole in your firewall. Please do yourself a favor and use a gromet so your car does not look like this.
If you have any question please post a new thread or drop a pm.
Modified by wrx-killer-Sti eater at 5:42 PM 4/13/2007
First we will start off with the regular atc fuse.
Good for a entry level sound system. And thats about it. They come in entry level kits for a reason. There cheap. I seen these produce voltage drop because of the fuse holder design. There easy to get water and weather in the case and corrode the terminals. They also have a limit because most atc fuses only go up to a 40 amp. Good thing about these is that you can get fuses anywere for it. And for really cheap. You will most likely never see them in apps under 8 gauge. I could be wrong because of ebay creation.
Next is the maxi fuse
This is the big brother to the atc fuse. Its the same but just really bigger. And can handel more current. I really don't use these much under the hood because of the holder design. Its alot better then the atc design because most are screwed in to there holder depending on the company. You will find these types of fuses on amps sometimes. Like the soundstream units and others
Next is the agu glass fuse holder.
[
These units are good if you buy high quality ones. There are cheap ones out there That can cause voltage drop because of there design. If you look at the cheaper ones. Look into were the fuse is put into. It will most of the time be held into place by a small peice of coiled metal. This keep most of the contact off of the fuse were it is suppose to be. I seen these units fail because of this. Most cheaper unit will arc back and forth between the fuse and the holder. In turn it will weld itself toghter making it unchangeable when the fuse blows. Also on these units the fuse is allways know to look good when it blows. This is because the fuse might not blow in the middle were you can see it. It ends up melting the solder point on the case to the filament. This allways mostly occurs with cheap swapmeet fuses. But it does happen with high quality. Also these are not know as "fusiable links" never have never will.
Next are the mini anl
Nonething really bad to say about them. Its a good solid design. I never seen these fail or create voltage drop. Its a good step up from the agu fuses in a system. Or for anybody thats want to look diffrent. The only problem would be finding fuses for them at a dinky stereo shop or out on the road. The fuses will cost more then a standered agu glass type.
Next is the reg anl
[
Perfect unit to go with if your budget allows. Really good solid design. More fuse contact. Fuse ratings are high on these up to 300 amp. I even seen a 500 amp rating one . But be prepared to shell out big bucks for them. They sell from $13 to 25 buxs a fuse. Ouch costly.
Next is the circuit breaker
I use to use them thinking that I will save money on fuses in the long run. I was using one during a show back in the day. It was not a cheap unit and its was from "PG" for all that know what company that is. Well the dam thing failed and did not trip and nearly burnt down my baby civic. Lets just say the amp was not no longer good and there was burnt wire from the back of the car to the fire wall. And a exploded battery under the hood. Cost more to fix the car then the dam unit was worth. But its better then nonething. If your using one I say back it up with a fuse still. You can never be to safe.
Lastly but not forgotten
Never seen one used in a amp power wire run. Don't think it ever will. Mostly 12-14 gauge wire. But you know people out here. They will try anything.
Hopefully you guys that are not into car audio will take notes on these. And choose your product right. Get the right stuff from the begining and you won't have to do it twice
Now to power wire
Here are a couple of charts to help you guys out to figure out what to run and why.
The chart lacks 2 gauge wire. But with cost almost the same just use 1 gauge. Not all wire is created same. There are alot of fake cheap kits out there. I seen alot on ebay and your local swapmeet. Brand like "amercian power, dhd, hot power" are cheaply made and all you are doing is just buying thin wire with fat coating on it.
Now before you just go throwing in a mega 2000 rms amp and try to rock the stars out the sky. You need to make sure you have enough amps in your charging system to push it. And how many amps that your amp is going to pull to get that power that you need. This part is easy. Take your amps rms and divide it by 12.6 . This will give you the total amps need to run the amp correctly. Give or take. Ie 2000rms/12.6 volts= 158.73 amps. Sorry your teg or civic is not going to do this with a stock charging system. So a bigger battery or two and alternator upgrade will be necessary. You can go to any auto zone or local auto electric shop to find out what condition the alternator is in, and putting out. You need to give or take 10%. a 100 amp alt that put out 95-97 is fine. This is some basic information that will get you by with out going to deep and getting everyone lost. O yea. If your drilling a hole in your firewall. Please do yourself a favor and use a gromet so your car does not look like this.
If you have any question please post a new thread or drop a pm.
Modified by wrx-killer-Sti eater at 5:42 PM 4/13/2007
04-29-2008, 03:45 PM
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Re: Car stereo fuse holder(what kind to use) And power wire chart(how to figure out size) (wrx-kille
Well since so many people ask me about this, Im's me about this and email me about this I figured I'll add this to the power side of this write up above. So its in one big thread.
Its not really hard to do. If you have common tools,time and the items to do the job right your good to go. Okay some pic. I would like to think hatching for letting me use his car for the write up since I sold the kitt off mine and I happen to be doing his.
Here is a pic of some of the items that you are going to need. A roll of 4 gauge power wire. The key to this is to make sure that you buy true 4g wire. There are alot of companies that make fake wire. Mostly on ebay and swappmeets. Its 8 0r 10g wire with a thick coat on it. amercian acc is some bull shyt. Stick will name brand stuff. Ie stinger, fosgate, tsunmie, street wire. There are others but I name the leading brands that most know. Your also going to need some quality terminals for 4g wire, crimpers or a hammer or high qulity crimp set. And the most important thing..... The terminals. There are alot on the market. So price is up to what kind that you want to use. I like to use High performance car audio ones like above. The best thing is that they lock on to the battery post. This also makes it hard for a theif to disconnect the car battery to kill your alarm. Even thou every alarm should have a back up battery on it just incase. Stinger, tsunnami,fosgate all make some good ones. Stay away of the cheap ones. They rust in the end and the bolts allways strip. Lets begin.
This is what we were working with from the start at the top picture. First make sure that you have the code to your stock radio if you have a factory one. If not you will be making a trip to the dealership to get the code. Second remove both the power and ground wire from the battery. This is done for two reason. One you don't want any loose wires shorting anything out. Second we are doing the starter wire too. And you don't want that wire live when you remove it. You don't want to see the 4 of july under the hood. Like I said before the process is really simple. Its R&R and a lil cutting.
Once you remove the main positive harness of the battery, fuse box, abs and starter wire. It will come off as one hunk. I'll put pitures of that up later since the camera died. Take your new wire and measure it all to the length of the harness removed. Then all you have to do is cut, crimp the new terminals onto the 4 gauge wire. Next insert the measured wire with the new crimps onto the new battery terminals. Follow the directions off the new terminals. Most use allen wrenches to tighten. Simple r&r. Repeat for the gorund wire and your done.
Here are pics of the starter wire and tranny ground.
valve cover.
Before
After
I hope this helps, You will notice brighter lights, easier starting and a lil uppidity on the gas mileage. Plus it makes the engine bay look alot cleaner. I might make car kits for diffrent makes and models of the honda and acura camp. So im me if your interested. Its a lil diy that can be done in about a hour. 
Its not really hard to do. If you have common tools,time and the items to do the job right your good to go. Okay some pic. I would like to think hatching for letting me use his car for the write up since I sold the kitt off mine and I happen to be doing his.
Here is a pic of some of the items that you are going to need. A roll of 4 gauge power wire. The key to this is to make sure that you buy true 4g wire. There are alot of companies that make fake wire. Mostly on ebay and swappmeets. Its 8 0r 10g wire with a thick coat on it. amercian acc is some bull shyt. Stick will name brand stuff. Ie stinger, fosgate, tsunmie, street wire. There are others but I name the leading brands that most know. Your also going to need some quality terminals for 4g wire, crimpers or a hammer or high qulity crimp set. And the most important thing..... The terminals. There are alot on the market. So price is up to what kind that you want to use. I like to use High performance car audio ones like above. The best thing is that they lock on to the battery post. This also makes it hard for a theif to disconnect the car battery to kill your alarm. Even thou every alarm should have a back up battery on it just incase. Stinger, tsunnami,fosgate all make some good ones. Stay away of the cheap ones. They rust in the end and the bolts allways strip. Lets begin.
This is what we were working with from the start at the top picture. First make sure that you have the code to your stock radio if you have a factory one. If not you will be making a trip to the dealership to get the code. Second remove both the power and ground wire from the battery. This is done for two reason. One you don't want any loose wires shorting anything out. Second we are doing the starter wire too. And you don't want that wire live when you remove it. You don't want to see the 4 of july under the hood. Like I said before the process is really simple. Its R&R and a lil cutting.
Once you remove the main positive harness of the battery, fuse box, abs and starter wire. It will come off as one hunk. I'll put pitures of that up later since the camera died. Take your new wire and measure it all to the length of the harness removed. Then all you have to do is cut, crimp the new terminals onto the 4 gauge wire. Next insert the measured wire with the new crimps onto the new battery terminals. Follow the directions off the new terminals. Most use allen wrenches to tighten. Simple r&r. Repeat for the gorund wire and your done.
Here are pics of the starter wire and tranny ground.
valve cover.
Before
After
I hope this helps, You will notice brighter lights, easier starting and a lil uppidity on the gas mileage. Plus it makes the engine bay look alot cleaner. I might make car kits for diffrent makes and models of the honda and acura camp. So im me if your interested. Its a lil diy that can be done in about a hour.
07-22-2008, 11:12 PM
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Re: (slow5.0)
nice thread man! i just wanted 2 add 1 thing. it looks like your alt to batt. cable goes through your fuse box. just wanted 2 let everyone know that you can run it straight to the batt. and just inline fuse it.
i just wanted 2 add 1 thing. it looks like your alt to batt. cable goes through your fuse box. just wanted 2 let everyone know that you can run it straight to the batt. and just inline fuse it.
08-06-2008, 01:24 AM
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Re: (mattison187)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mattison187 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice thread man! i just wanted 2 add 1 thing. it looks like your alt to batt. cable goes through your fuse box. just wanted 2 let everyone know that you can run it straight to the batt. and just inline fuse it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats true, but to keep cost down its is easier this way
i just wanted 2 add 1 thing. it looks like your alt to batt. cable goes through your fuse box. just wanted 2 let everyone know that you can run it straight to the batt. and just inline fuse it. </TD></TR></TABLE>Thats true, but to keep cost down its is easier this way
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09-04-2008, 09:24 PM
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Re: (NebuR)
decent write up but you have the same color for positive and negative. bad idea for young inexperienced retards out there. they will [freak] things up.
09-26-2008, 12:26 AM
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Re: (ws350z)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ws350z »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mattison187 is right its easier and more cost effective do run it to the battery directly</TD></TR></TABLE>
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11-05-2008, 03:33 AM
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Re: (1 2 NV)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">decent write up but you have the same color for positive and negative. bad idea for young inexperienced retards out there. they will [freak] things up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Kind of hard when both terminals are marked pos or neg. And everything is explained.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ws350z »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mattison817 is right its easier and more cost effective do run it to the battery directly</TD></TR></TABLE>
This car did not need it ran to the battery, Thats why it is not done. If your application needs it then it can be done. Please find out whats going on before posting.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IT LBS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have to fuse the alt to batt? i dont think its fused in the fuse box!?!?!? can i run it direct to the batt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Depends on the car and how you are setting this up. make and model of the car.
Kind of hard when both terminals are marked pos or neg. And everything is explained.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ws350z »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mattison817 is right its easier and more cost effective do run it to the battery directly</TD></TR></TABLE>
This car did not need it ran to the battery, Thats why it is not done. If your application needs it then it can be done. Please find out whats going on before posting.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IT LBS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have to fuse the alt to batt? i dont think its fused in the fuse box!?!?!? can i run it direct to the batt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Depends on the car and how you are setting this up. make and model of the car.
12-25-2008, 12:37 PM
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Re: Power Wire and Fuses / Holders ("what size do I need?")-Big three upgrade pics an
I did the Big 3 already and notice a big different with the electrical.
02-19-2009, 09:30 PM
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Re: Power Wire and Fuses / Holders ("what size do I need?")-Big three upgrade pics an
So for the big 3, in the pics above, you ran an extra ground to the transmission and did not change the wire to the alternator? This is on a B18C.
I looked online and saw this
So far following the DIY I have done
1) starter positive to battery positive
2) battery negative to chassis
3) engine ground to chassis.
4) battery positive to fusebox
Would it be best to run from the battery negative to the transmission or replace the wire from the transmission to the chassis? Where does "1) alternator positive to battery positive" come into play?
Thanks for any help, I just want to get this right!
I looked online and saw this
Originally Posted by http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~73496~PN~1
1) alternator positive to battery positive
2) battery negative to chassis
3) engine ground to chassis.
2) battery negative to chassis
3) engine ground to chassis.
1) starter positive to battery positive
2) battery negative to chassis
3) engine ground to chassis.
4) battery positive to fusebox
Would it be best to run from the battery negative to the transmission or replace the wire from the transmission to the chassis? Where does "1) alternator positive to battery positive" come into play?
Thanks for any help, I just want to get this right!
03-01-2009, 08:12 PM
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Re: Power Wire and Fuses / Holders ("what size do I need?")-Big three upgrade pics an
The car above did not need the alternator, it was never going to have any extra accesories add to the car. We did the upgrade for security reason-makes it harder to disconnect the battery.
No you do not need to run the battery to the engine. Make sure that all grounds are clean. A dremmel works great to take out a small part of paint. I did the transmission to chassie because it was worn and it could use to be replaced
If you run the alternator to the battery you need to make sure you fuse for the power wire. I just run it to the fuse box because there is allready a fuse there and it one less wire on the battery teminal and it makes it look neater.
What make and model of the car?
No you do not need to run the battery to the engine. Make sure that all grounds are clean. A dremmel works great to take out a small part of paint. I did the transmission to chassie because it was worn and it could use to be replaced
If you run the alternator to the battery you need to make sure you fuse for the power wire. I just run it to the fuse box because there is allready a fuse there and it one less wire on the battery teminal and it makes it look neater.
What make and model of the car?
03-12-2009, 04:44 AM
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Re: Power Wire and Fuses / Holders ("what size do I need?")-Big three upgrade pics an
wrx-killer,
One thing I'd like to add to your fine write-up. We are instructed to wire the amps directly to the battery. Problem is, that current is not seen by the ELD and therefore does not allow the alternator to stay in high output mode during otherwise low current demand. I suggest disabling the ECM control of the alternator along with the Big 5 (Big 3 + starter + battery>main fuse box).
One thing I'd like to add to your fine write-up. We are instructed to wire the amps directly to the battery. Problem is, that current is not seen by the ELD and therefore does not allow the alternator to stay in high output mode during otherwise low current demand. I suggest disabling the ECM control of the alternator along with the Big 5 (Big 3 + starter + battery>main fuse box).
03-21-2009, 07:06 PM
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Re: Power Wire and Fuses / Holders ("what size do I need?")-Big three upgrade pics an
Do you know where i can find a DIY for a 2004 civic coupe lx?? And where did you get those battery terminals??
05-09-2009, 03:28 PM
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Re: Power Wire and Fuses / Holders ("what size do I need?")-Big three upgrade pics an
Just to let you know. I don't or never will crimp terminal wire or terminal. 2 Reason: Sometimes wire come loose and connections are not solid. I solder all my terminal connection. Don't forget to add grommet along with the wire. Just in case it don't end up burning under the hood. By the way, why did you took out your factory battery terminal? I just add my wire unto it and it work great.
05-09-2009, 04:22 PM
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Re: Power Wire and Fuses / Holders ("what size do I need?")-Big three upgrade pics an
First reason under some hoods of cars it can get hot enough to melt the solder or make it soft or crack. Second factory terminals are to easy to pull off. With the aftermarket terminals its not going to come off. Third if you read at the bottom it says to use a grommet.
05-10-2009, 06:43 AM
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Re: Power Wire and Fuses / Holders ("what size do I need?")-Big three upgrade pics an
First reason under some hoods of cars it can get hot enough to melt the solder or make it soft or crack. Second factory terminals are to easy to pull off. With the aftermarket terminals its not going to come off. Third if you read at the bottom it says to use a grommet.
UHmm, I have all my terminal are solder and not one have been melt or crack. It work fine a have better connection i hardly voltage drop. Well, I have use after market terminals and it seem out come off way too eazy that stock. Not trying to say it bad but it you think it look and comfortable for you then that your choice. I didn't saw add the wire for the alternator i thought you might went to another route for this connections.
07-08-2009, 11:44 PM
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Re: Power Wire and Fuses / Holders ("what size do I need?")-Big three upgrade pics an
again, make sure to use fused battery terminals or an inline fuse on your battery.
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