AFAccord

Well, I've installed a LOT of ICE over the years, but this is my first attempt at a true alarm/remote start, and after reviewing the wiring diagrams I've downloaded from the12volt and the install manual from Compustar, I have to be honest and say I'm overwhelmed.

I've got all the trim pulled out to access fuse panels and harnesses, and started running down the list of wires I'll need to tap/splice, but I'm getting confused which wires are which. For example, I'm looking for the parking lights wire (red/black) in the driver's side fuse panel, but I can find at least three red/black wires on either side of the panel! Also, I'm seeing many wires with different colored dots on them. Does that signify anything? If I find a red/black wire with silver dots at the fuse panel, is that different from a red/black wire?

So far I've positively identified the following wires:

Constant 12v+
Starter
Ignition
Accessory
Tach
Brake Switch
Trunk Release
Trunk Pin

I still need to locate the following:

Parking lights
head lights
factory disarm
door trigger
Door Lock
Door Unlock
Driver's lock
Driver's unlock
Passenger unlock
Horn wire

Or at least I think so... lol

I want the alarm to function with inputs from the hood/trunk and door/dome lights, as well as a tilt sensor, shock sensor, and glass break sensor. I want the remote start to function, and I want to wire in a relay to cut ground to the main relay if the alarm is triggered so the car can not start.

One more question I have is the +/- in the Compustar manual. If it says "(-) Light Output" does that mean it's a switched ground from the alarm brain? And am I supposed to tap into this wire, or actually cut it and splice it directly to the brain?

I apologize for all the confusion, but I haven't found any competent shops within a couple hour's drive, and the price they're asking to do a 'stealth' install is far too much for my budget. Thanks in advance for helpful responses.

-Jason

Rev2 9K

I believe you need a module to bypass the security. The door lock wires are in the pass side fuse panel on the side of the dash. Otherwise you just got to look for the wires. I did one of these it took about 2 hours

AFAccord

Immobilizer isn't an issue because the car is OBD1. I haven't worked on it anymore tonight, but I'm sure I'll come up with some more question when I hit it in the morning.

fcm

You do not need the head lights, use park light free pin in under dash fuse box for park lights.

You do not need the neg.(-) park light output, in fact you should remove, [depin] any leads on the brain you do not need.



You do not need any of the leads on CN2 except CN2/2 (-) black status, for the bypass module and CIS if your car is a standard and CN2/4 (-) accessory output to plug into the pre-wire "extra relay" for 2nd acc., [white/black in ign harness].

You do not need CN3/1, [unless the car is a standard, CN3/6, CN3/7 and CN3/8.

You do not need CN4/2.

You should not need CN5/3, CN5/6 and CN5/7

I would also just install a switch on the PGM-FI Main Relay ground instead of using the alarm to control a relay on it, it is a better layer, so even if they beat the alarm and the stock immobilizer the car can't be started.

The oem alarm disarm is the blue lead at the drivers door power window switch assembly.

There is only a lock and unlock lead to connect to, they will do all doors.

You will need a relay to do trunk release.

The tilt and glass break sensors can be connected to CN8/2, diodes will need to be installed on the sensor trigger leads, power and ground can be connected to any 12V+ constant source and ground to chassis. 94

AFAccord

Alright. You're saying there's an open pin in the fuse box for park lights?


Will that still flash the park lights if the alarm is set off then?



The car is a 5-speed. So I can de-pin CN2/1 Light Output, CN2/3 Ignition Output, CN2/4 Accessory Output, and CN2/5 Starter Output? Won't I atleast need Starter Output?

So I WILL need CN3/1 since it's manual, right? I don't need CN3/6 + Door Sensing? CN3/6,7 are glow plug so I don't need those, and CN3/9 is my tach wire?

I won't need CN4/2 even if I want to use the stock trunk power release? What is the CN4/3 2nd Pulse Unlock for?

CN5/3 Dome light function is replaced with CN3/5 -Door sensing? CN5/6,7 are for extra outputs? Could I use those to activate a relay powering Piezo sirens?

I appreciate the heads up, but for this car I don't think I'm willing to have a separate switch to flip each time I park it since it's a low-key DD. I'm installing the brain under carpet under one of the seats, and I'm running the power to the brain from a dedicated line off a second battery that's hidden behind a panel in the trunk, and also running a backup siren. I'd really like for the alarm to use a relay to cut ground to the main relay when ever it's armed or set off. I know it's a crutch to rely so heavily on the alarm, but I'm trying to cover all the back doors and still keep it simple so my wife can easily take the car to the grocery store.


I need to cut this wire and ground it to chassis?


Ok, so Red/Green is my "passenger unlock", you mean I can just use that and it will unlock both doors?


I need to use a relay to power the OE power trunk release (white/red) right?

3 amp diodes will be fine for these? Striped side is ground, and the system is a negative trigger, so... striped side goes to the sensor?


Can I use the stock hood sensing, or would it be worth my effort to install the hood pin that came with the alarm?

Do I need to just be tapping in to all these wires, or do I need to cut any of them from the source? And should I pay attention to the silver/orange dots on the wires?

Thanks in advance. I don't mean to be so naive, but I don't want to screw this up.

AFAccord

I've got some of this figured out. I still need to know what wiring/relays I need to do to have the alarm cut ground to the Main Relay when armed and not running.

The only other relay I know of is one to convert the trunk release from - trigger to + power.

I'm copying this from another post to show what I have, and maybe someone can fill in the red lines so this thing will work the way I want it to.

COMPUSTAR MODEL: 2W900FM-AS (AUTO-START)
CAR: 2000 Accord EX 5-speed

CN1

1. red: (+)12v constant - Fused from Battery
2. green/white: parking light - Tapped into Park Light wire in doorsill
3. red/white: (+)12v constant prewired relay for 2nd IG, ACC, or STARTER - DE-PINNED
4. white: accessories - Yellow @ Ignition Switch
5. violet: starter kill/anti-grind - Prewired into Relay for starter
6. yellow: starter - Prewired into Relay for starter
7. green/red: Prewired into Relay for starter
8. black: ground - ground to chassis

CN2

1. green/white: (-)light output 250mA - ?
2. black: (-)status output 250mA - ?
3. green: (-)ignition output 250mA - ?
4. white/black: (-)accessory output 250mA - ?
5. red/black: (-) starter output 250mA - ?

CN3

1. light blue: (-)e-brake sensing - green/red wire on ebrake handle
2. gray/black: (-)hood sensing - hood pin
3. light blue/white: (+)brake sensing - whte/black @ brake pedal
4. violet/black: (-)trunk sensing - orng/slvr dots to trunk pin @ drivers door sill
5. red/white: (-)door sensing - blck/white @ pass fuse panel
6. red: (+)door sensing - not used/de-pinned??
7. brown/black: (-)glow plug - de-pinned
8. brown/white: (+)glow plug - de-pinned
9. yellow/black: engine sensing - blue tach test @ engine bay

CN4

1. none
2. violet/white: (-)trunk unlock 250mA - red/white (use relay to convert - trigger to + trigger)?
3. orange black: (-)2nd pulse unlock 250mA - ??
4. blue: (-)unlock 250mA - orange @ pass fuse box??
5. blue/black: (-)lock 120 mA - black/blue @ pass fuse box??
6. none

CN5

1. orange: (-)rearm 250mA - ?
2. orange/white: (-)disarm 250mA - ?
3. violet: dome light supervision 250mA - This not used since door trigger is wired??
4. brown: (+) siren - red wire off the siren
5. white: horn 250mA - light green/blue @ steering column
6. yellow: (-)aux 1 250mA - Can I use this to activate Piezo sirens?
7. yellow/white: (-)aux 2 250mA - What can I use this for?
8. none

CN6
LED light plug-in

CN7
shock sensor plug-in

CN8
1. Input for Tilt Sensor using 1-amp Diodes
2. Input for Glass Break Sensor using 1-amp Diodes

CN9
Remote Paging System

CN10
temp sensor - Dont' have, will this work since this isn't a pro model?

CN11
antenna plug-in

CN12
tach learning button

DIP
1. On - for Tach Sensing
2. Off - 15min Run Time

JUMPER
Uncut - Manual Transmission

fcm

Most Honda/Acura under dash fuse box's have "free pins" for connecting up aftermarket electronics, not absolutely sure they had them on the 2000 Accord, they can't be missed if they are there, 3-5 male quick disconnects, on is the park light circuit.

The park lights will still flash.

Depin all but CN2/2 status and CN2/4 (-) acc.

You do not cut the blue OEM alarm lead you connect CN5/2 (-) disarm to it.

Just use the lock and unlock to do all doors... http://64.85.6.121/diagrams/printpag...12652&MakeID=3

Yes use a relay to supply 12V+ to the white/red trunk release lead, control the relay with CN4/2

1A diodes will work fine and yes the cathode, [striped end] towards sensors. 94

AFAccord

Alright, I need some dumbed-down answers as to where I'm supposed to connect the following:

CN2/2 black: (-)status output 250mA - I'm guessing this wire taps into the CIS, but which one? I have a black wire and a light blue wire. FSM shows that switch makes continuity, but not which wire goes to the starter relay to ground it.
CN2/4 white/black: (-)accessory output 250mA - No idea where this goes.

CN4/3 orange black: (-)2nd pulse unlock 250mA - Do I need this at all?
CN4/4 blue: (-)unlock 250mA - papers say orange @ pass fuse box. I found this in the pass fuse box, but showed 12v when I tested to chassis ground.
CN4/5 blue/black: (-)lock 120 mA - papers say black/blue @ pass fuse box.I found this in the pass fuse box, but showed 12v when I tested to chassis ground.


CN5/1 orange: (-)rearm 250mA - Do I need this at all?


I already cannibalized that pre-wired relay since my car does not have a 2nd ignition. I have extra relays now, but do I absolutely need 2nd ACC? If so, what needs to be wired to that relay?


EDIT: Got most of the alarm installed minus door locks, CIS, LED, and sensors mounted. Powered it up, and programmed the remote. The alarm responds to remote input, but always says the door is open, though I have my CN3/5 lead tapped in to the black/white wire in my pass fuse panel. Thoughts? I need to get this working by tomorrow night so I can use the car Monday.

fcm

CN2/4 will plug into the pigtail on the pre-wired relay you removed, that relay can be use for 2nd ign., 2nd acc. or 2nd starter, depending on what it is wired to and which lead from CN2 you plug into it's pig tail, CN2/3 for 2nd ign. CN2/4 for 2nd acc. or CN2/5 for 2nd starter.
You need to wire the relay to the white/black lead in ign. harness and plug the CN2/4 white/black (-) acc. output into the relays pigtail.

Yes, depin all leads not needed, [the ones I mentioned].

The two power door lock leads, black/blue and orange will test as 12V+ as they are on the other side of a relays coil that has 12V+ on it. to test the leads use a scrap piece of wire with one end grounded to chassis, and using only one strand of the other end touch it to the leads, if you have the correct leads the doors will lock/unlock if you have the wrong leads the one strand of copper wire will blow like a fuse.

Yes connect to the blue/black, the black lead is a ground input to the CIS, the blue/black is the output from the CIS to the starter relay, during remote start the status lead, [CN2/2] will supply the ground for the starter relay.

My guess is you have the wrong black/white lead. [alarm indicates door is still open] disconnect the door trigger lead, CN3/5 (-) door sensing, and test again, try this first, if arming alarm with door open works and then closing door, [pressing door pin switch] triggers alarm, you have connected CN3/ (+) door sensing to the door trigger lead, it will also test as 12V+ when doors are closed and ground when doors are open, the same goes for trunk/hatch trigger. 94

AFAccord

Alrighty! Alarm is in and operational! I've set the sensitivity on the glass break and shock sensors, and played around with the tilt sensor which I'm not very impressed with at this point. I haven't had a chance to test the remote-start function because I haven't parked the car in reservation mode. Thank you so much fcm for walking me through this.

fcm

So what was it with the door open indication??? 94

AFAccord

There were three Black/White wires on the pass fuse panel. Your method of checking for 12v when closed, 0v when open is what helped me find it. Same goes for the door locks. Just touched one strand to the wire and they locked.

Problem with the remote start though...

I park the car in reservation mode as directed, and it keeps running when I pull the key out, though the accessories power off since I didn't know I needed the 2nd ACC relay wired up. When I try to remote-start, the ignition comes on and the fuel pump cycles, but it never tries to crank. It does this three times before it quits. I tapped the CN2/2 lead into the light blue wire on the CIS, so I don't know if that's the correct one, but it even does this when I'm in the car pressing the clutch pedal, so I can rule that out for now.

Could that 2nd ACC keep it from starting, even though the car can run without the 2nd ACC?

AFAccord

Tested the starter wire while cranking the car with the key and I see 12v. Tested it again after putting the car in reservation mode and trying to remote-start. The gauge cluster lit up as it should when the ignition is turned on, but I saw nothing at the starter wire. What could cause this? Where do I begin troubleshooting?

VegaS10

Starter wires wired backwards?

fcm

Make sure the yellow starter lead is on the starter side of the cut OEM starter lead if you are using the prewired starter cut relay.

The 2nd acc. will not prevent the car from starting if it is not connected.

Try this, put into reservation mode, step on clutch, open and close door to shut down remote start, keep foot on clutch, then try to remote start, if it starts you have CN2/2 connected to the wrong lead, if it does not start, repeat reservation mode, turn ign. off but do not remove key, open and close door to shut down remote start, try and remote start car.

AFAccord

I'm not using a starter cut relay, the starter wire from the brain is tapped directly into the ignition harness between the key switch and the fuse panel.

I've already tried remote starting the car with the clutch depressed, and I get the same result. I'll have to try leaving the key in and remote starting it tomorrow to be sure that doesn't work, but I believe I've tried that as well.

fcm

Where did you get the Compustar from?

Where have you connected the CN3/9 yellow/black engine sensing, [tach] lead to.

Did you program tach? 94

AFAccord

Alarm came special ordered from a local alarm/stereo shop.

Engine sensing lead is connected to the tach test wire under the hood. Pressed the tach button with the engine running, and it chirped once, so the tach should be programmed.

AFAccord

Still don't have the remote start function operational.

I'm still a bit confused as to what the function of the "factory disarm" lead is. I could not trace this wire out of the door (probably runs through a multiplexor unit), and so I didn't wire it up. I understand this could be a problem since the car had the factory immobilizer, but the car is now OBD1 and no longer has the immobilizer installed.

I currently have no other problems with the alarm working as it should, but I'm curious if this could be the reason the car doesn't remote start. When the alarm unlocks the door, that disarms the factory alarm, and vice versa when the alarm locks the door.

I'm very hesitant to run a new wire into the door because it's a PITA to get through the grommets. Is this wire absolutely necessary for the remote start to operate?

fcm

You will not need to run a lead into the door, you are already getting OEM alarm disarm.

What exactly happens when you press remote start? 94

AFAccord

I think I'll take a video for you just so there's no confusion...

MONSTERZC

I bet if you get the immobilizer bypass. It will fire right up. Why do you think the immobilizer isn't an issue.

MONSTERZC

The 556H uses a unique auto-program sequence to learn the secure
code from the Key Cylinder Module and repeats it when remote start
is activated, eliminating the need to leave a key in the vehicle.
The 556H Honda/Acura Immobilizer Bypass Module integrates into
the wiring for the Honda/Acura immobilizer anti-theft system to
allow remote start capability, while still allowing normal function
of the factory immobilizer anti-theft system.
Works With:
Honda Accord 2003-2004 * Honda Accord 1998-2002
* Honda CRV 2002-2004 * Honda CRV 1998-2001
* Honda Civic 2001-2004 * Honda Odyssey 1998-2003
* Honda Element 2003-2004 * Honda Pilot 2003
* Acura RSX 2002-2004 * Acura CL 1998-2003
* Acura TSX 2004 * Acura Integra 2000-2002
* Acura TL 2004 * Acura MDX 2001-2002
* Acura MDX 2003 * Acura TL 1998-2002
* Acura 1.7EL 2001-2004 * Acura 1.6EL 1998-2000

AFAccord

Because the immobilizer is built into the stock ECU, and the stock ECU is no longer in the car.

MONSTERZC

what does your key look like. the reason i asked is even when you changed ecu's you didn't remove the anti theft. Im thinking the immobilizer may be built into the key.