Matt93eg

Hey guys, I finished(or thought so)my Viper 5002 stealth install into my 93 Civic EX 2-dr a bit ago. Theres a few problems that I have been looking into the problem with my multi-meter but wanted some opinions.

I got the 2-way LCD Remote programmed to arm/disarm. When all the doors are closed it will arm and show the lock symbol on the LCD screen. However, it will not lock the doors or unlock them. Once armed if I open a door it will trip the alarm, I opened the hood and with all other doors shut, I held down the hood pin and armed the system. Letting go of the hood pin triggered full alarm. Both sirens are working. When the alarm was in full trigger via hoodpin I snatched the negative cable off the battery and sirens died. The 520T backup battery did not activate.

Park lights blink when armed/disarmed, LED lights up. Also when disarmed the car will not start. I hooked up the starter kill to the onboard 5002 relay and wired it as normally open although I have not yet programmed the system for normally open. I also did an ignition kill using Hatch's trick with 2 connectors from a donor car.

The engine bay side of the ignition wire is going to terminal 87A, The orange Ground when armed wire from the brain is going to terminal 85, the key side of the ignition wire going to terminal 30 and I have a jumper going from 86 to 30.

On the door locks I used the 7-pin harness and tapped the Green/Blk wire to the Green/White Lock wire. And I tapped the Blue/Blk wire to the Green/Red unlock wire. I ran the Violet to ground in a ring terminal along with all the other grounds from the alarm and backup battery. The Blk/White wire on the door lock harness said "To Ground(Domelight)"..I tied this in with all the other grounds as well..could this be the issue with my door locks? I have to actually tap it into the ground coming from the domelight?

I taped up my ignition kill relay and all so I guess I will have to go and un-stealh it to use my meter on it.

I did check for ignition 12V at the yellow wire on Main harness and it is getting 12V with the ignition on. Also have contanst 12V at the alarm brain and the backup battery plugin. But the backup didn't come on when I disconnected battery. I have the backup batteries blue trigger wire tapped into the blue wire on main harness using a diode.

I will be out troubleshooting(I am NOT the best with a multimeter when it seems to get technical though.)

Any insight would be great.

Matt93eg

Can scratch the door locks off that list. They weren't working cause I tapped into a Green/Red and Green/White in some loom behind the main relay. I thought these were for door locks but there not. I didn't know the door locks actually never make it to the car. Taking the door panels off revealed they stop at the module. I fixed where I had tapped into yesterday and tapped into the unlock/lock wires behind the door panel. Found a hole in the door and frame to run the wires, some split loom cleaned it up nicely. The alarm now locks and unlocks the doors when I arm and disarm.

Still haven't figured out why the backup battery doesn't work and the ignition.

fcm

When ign. switch is on, is there power om the black/yellow at the distributor.

Can you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn ign, switch to run?

Co the cluster lights come on when you turn on the ign., [oil, alt., CEL and so on]?94

suspendedHatch

You absolutely HAVE TO verify every wire with a multimeter.

Now that you're "done", it's a pain to go back and troubleshoot.

You would think that I gave up verifying wires after doing the same cars over and over again. Absolutely not. It's very helpful that I know exactly where to look to find everything. But I still verify the wires because every time I get cocky I get burned. Trunk triggers, fuel pump wires, door locks on goddamned Del Sols, 94+ variation on the Civics... now I verify everything by habit w/out fail (although I quit my job as an installer).

Okay I'm done scolding you. I just had to jump in cuz you mentioned me. It looks like fcm's got you so I'll get out of your thread now.

Matt93eg

Hatch, thanks for the scolding. I got cocky and got burned so in never works out and I should have checked them with my meter.

I got everything working now but the backup battery, I'm thinking the battery is bad. It shows 12Vs at the battery but with a load seems to only put out around 7Vs. I programmed the brain immobilizer for normally open today and that let power through to the starter when dis-armed but not when armed. I also had used a relay to wire up an ignition kill. I wasn't getting power to the dist. when trying to start the engine. Through a code 15 for igniton output signal so I untaped my relay and with the meter determined the relay wasn't working, I got my hands on a new SPDT relay and wired it back up and its good to go now.

My main battery got worn down a bit today I guess with all the chirps, etc from checking things and I kept arming the alarm and setting it off trying to get the 520T working so I have the charger on it right now.

Also Hatch, I hope I didn't offend you when I mentioned you cause I used your nifty trick with 2 plugs from a donor car for the ignition kill.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

Are you sure you have the diode positioned correctly? You might have it blocking the trigger from sending the signal to the alarm brain.

You did wire up the backup correctly, right? Red wire from alarm to grey wire on backup module...Red wire from backup module to 12v constant?

Matt93eg

I have the striped side of the diode facing up the blue wire to the backup battery. I have the non-striped side tied into the blue trigger wire from the alarm, theres another non-striped side diode twisted around it with the stripe side of that diode going to the tilt sensor.

Maybe I don't have the backup battery wiring correct.

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

Back up battery is deff shot. Don't worry get a bigger and better one. Look at the thread i made about them and get one of those. also make sure on the 520t that the alarm 12 volt input-red is connected to the 520t grey alarm output power supply.

Matt93eg

I will look into that for sure, My Dad said he should be home from work early tomorrow and since my car is at my parents house(my Dad's letting me borrow his 94 Civic to drive while I am doing install) I am gonna have him look over it for me and make double sure I have everything right but I am sure I do.

Don't know if I can get my money back for this battery or not. Its a DEI battery, not a knock-off. But I bought it from a seller on Amazon.com

Matt93eg

For what its worth I drew up this diagram, its basically a copy of the diagram that comes with the 520T. Is this how the wiring is suppose to be hooked up?

I know your suppose to cut the alarms red power wire an inch before the fuse and connect that end to the modules grey wire, but looking at the diagram I don't quite understand, I am mechanically inclined just not as great with understanding electrical stuff sometimes. Sorry for my lack of knowledge with some of this alarm stuff. Theres been a few times I told myself maybe I should have just had it done. But I'm a do it yourselfer and can't afford to have it done plus I wanted to learn it anyhow, I have great soldering skills and basic voltmeter skills..so hell..I jumped into it .

If you cut the alarms red wire an inch before the fuse and connect that to the modules grey wire, then what gets hooked to the tail of the red wire thats left on the harness to give it constant 12V..maybe i'm just not looking at it the right way. I know the battery is probably bad, but i'd like to know if I have the wiring right anyhow.

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

There is the number one problem. You don't know how old that unit is. Please tell me it did not come in a blue box. But the clear plastic. Wiring is okay. What other sensor is the dei back up battery tied into.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

You cut the red wire from the alarm brain just to remove excess wire once you've routed it to its location. Ive never been instructed to cut the wire an inch before the fuse. Wouldn't that almost be flush with the harness connector?

The diagram for your wiring is correct. Is that how you have it currently on the car? And you're sure the diode stripe is how you say it is? Do you have anything else hooked up to the blue alarm wire? Say maybe your hood trigger? Is that wire isolated?

Matt93eg

I agree that I have no clue how old the battery is. But no, it didn't come in a blue package, it came in the same package as the 520T you show in your alarm thread. The battery was bad as you said today. My wiring was correct and my dad messed with the battery for awhile and rigged a charger onto it. A few hours later we tripped the alarm and unhooked the battery and the sirens would let out very faint chirps. We went to radio shack and got a bigger 12V battery. Hooked it up and it works like a charm. Armed alarm with hood up but finger pressing hood pin down. Let go of hood pin to trigger alarm and then pulled the battery cable and she just kept right on blaring .

Thanks for all you guys help. Everything is working great. Tomorrow I will start putting the interior back together. I plan to get an early start tomorrow as its suppose to rain all day on Sunday . I'm stoked about this alarm though. Its nice to be able to unlock/disarm the alarm and have the dome light come on before you actually open the door. Whats nicer is having the dome light stay on a few after the door is shut. Now I don't have to leave my door hanging open for a min. while I find the ignition switch with my key . But, whats even nicer is having piece of mind, a thief is going to have his work cut out for him....I really like the keyless entry to..no more worrying about not scratching the paint on your doors as you unlock/lock.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

Good to hear you got things squared away.

Matt93eg

Thanks man, I appreciate your help and input. Very helpful and appreciated. Same goes to WRX, SuspendedHatch, FCM, and any others that I am forgetting to mention.

But yeah, I am happy about all this. This was the biggest electrical deal I have ever tackled in my 24 years. Took me longer than probably most people but I had the time so I used it in my favor to make sure I didn't shortcut or half *** anything. Taking a shortcut or doing something halfass just totally defeats the purpose of the stealth alarm install. It also took me longer to figure out little details here and there since it was my first time. Plus, running wires in a neat, stealth, clean way isn't always easy and I found sometimes instead of taking a direct route from point A to point B sometimes you have to take an in-direct route with the wires to keep them stealth and hidden to the max.

SQ is the SQUAD

so i am going to be using the third example pictured above with the negative passing through the diode. i have a viper 5901 alarm do i want to have the blue wire "h1/7 (-) trunk pin/instant trigger input" connected to the gray wire on the module

are all diodes the same? i ma going to go to raido shack to get a replacement. is there a special one i need?


thanks to everyone int his thread i found the answers i was looking for, thnx for the diagram to i couldn't find mine. now all i need is a picture of the diode. not sure if i just lost mine but i need to get a replacement