colnago

I have a question about installing a remote starter on a 1991 honda civic manual car. I have a compustar 1wam-s remote starter. Is it possible to activate the rear defroster with this model and how is it done if you can? Also to bypass the clutch interlock switch I wired the purple wire from cn2 to the starter relay wire blue/black. yellow wire to starter wire, and red + green wire to ignition wire of car, is this corect. I cut these wires from the prewired relay that comes with the compustar wire harness. Any suggestions from someone who has done it before will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Mario

fcm

What is the model number on the brain, [CM**** or ****AS]? 94

colnago

i believe model number is cm-4200



Modified by colnago at 8:59 AM 11/22/2006

fcm

Use Orange, [CN2/5] Rearm output 250mA, it will give a neg.(-) pulse after remote start... http://www.staub.ca/tech/Manua...e.pdf

The Black, [CN2/4] Status Out (GWR) 250mA wire should be connected to the "Clutch Interlock" switch/starter relays black/blue wire.

You mean green/red, [CN1/7] to ignition wire. 94


Modified by fcm at 11:22 PM 11/22/2006

colnago

On the rear defroster does the orange wire get connected to the blk/grn wire going to the defroster relay. changed my violet wire to the clutch interlock switch to the black wire, good deal. Yes Green/Red to ignition wire. Hey, thanks for the help and reply, your info was much appreciated and used.
Thanks, colnago

fcm

Sorry, I do not know how the rear window defrost switch "triggers" the read window defrost relay in a 91 Civic, there are a few ways it can do it, a momentary high or low current ground, a momentary high or low current 12V+, a momentary closing a high or low current ground or 12V+ circuit, and even a momentary opening a high or low current ground or 12V+.

The only one that would not require a relay is a low current momentary ground.

It is easy enough to check, test the switch and see what the momentary output is, it will be the lead that only has a ground or 12V+ on it when you press the button. check the black/green wire at the switch with a multimeter, see what it does, does it test as a ground or 12V+ when you press the switch, then test to see if it is high or low current, EG; if the lead tests as a ground, test it by using one strand of wire from a scrap piece of the alarms wire, connect one end of the wire, [all strands] to ground, then at the other end strip and fold back all but one strand of the wire, with the rear window switch plugged in and the ign. switch on, [car running] touch that one strand to the black/green lead, if defrost comes on and there is hardly a spark when you touch the the black/green, it is a low current momentary ground that "triggers" the rear window defog relay and the Compustars orange can be connected directly to the black/green lead. Anything else will require a relay. 94

colnago

fcm, thanks for the great info. I will check this saturday and post the results once i find out what it is. I just have one guestion about the normal operation of relays. The rear defroster switch works like this, when you press it it allows current to flow thru monentary to the relay which then a mechanical switch flips to close the circuit and power goes to the rear defogger grid. When you press the switch again ground travels to relay again and opens the circuit thereby stopping cureent flow. Yes or no

Thanks for your help!!! and Good day

fcm

Because most Honda/Acura rear window defrost relays are controlled by the ICU, [timer] it may be as simple as a low current momentary ground, [pulse] to the ICU that turns it on and off, turning ign. off also will turn it off. 94

colnago

FCM, what's going on? Finished hooking remote starter up. I have one question though. I can start the car without using the clutch when I am in it. The only thing that will stop this is releasing E-brake. if e-brake is engage I can start with no clutch pedal. I release e-brake need to use clutch to manually start it. Every thing seems to work fine though. Is this normal.

On the rear defroster: The oem switch applys current + to the relay which is conected to constant 12v. I was going to use the blue wire from the compustar to connect to the wire leaving the relay but the blue wire gives 12v when remote start is armed and while car is running. No good. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and thanks for info on black(GWR), it worked .

Thanks, Colnago

fcm

No that is not normal, it sounds like you have the "E" brake input CN3/1 (-) light blue crossed with the status output CN2/4 black, ["E" brake is supplying a ground to the "Clutch Interlock Switch"].

Does the remote start work normally, can you put it onto "Reservation Mode"?

Blue wire???

Have you tested the rear window defog "trigger", does supplying a momentary 12V+ to that wire on the relay to see if it will turn on the rear window defroster?

The only wire from the Compustar you can use for rear window defog activation is the CN2/5 orange (-) rearm output, if the "RWD" needs a 12V+ trigger, you will need a relay to convert the polarity... http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page1.asp#n2p 94

colnago

fcm, thanks for getting back to me. I need help bad. Alright here is what it is doing. The remote can be put into reservation mode like it should be. When I remote start it the lights falsh once, then two times then they stay on. Is this normal. When I am in the car if I engage emergency brake the module clicks,relay, then release it clicks again. If I remove cn3 connector car will start with ebrake engaged, clutch in manually. It seems the ebrake is grounding the clutch realy through the cn3 black wire. Now that you mention it, reserve mode can be activated without hitting brake(pedal). My procedure: Arrive at destination, foot not on brake pedal, pull ebrake then turn off car, car stays running. It seems no pedal brake is needed. also once i was able to not start the car without clutch put in and ebrake pulled, then 5-10 minutes later car would start without clutch being put in, ebrake still pulled.

"blue wire?" Is this the wire that is controlled by jumper. I removed it from cn1/pin5.

The rear defroster works like this. One wire going to switch has 12v, hit switch 12v out of another wire. This goes to relay which turns relay on and constant 12v is allowed to rear grind. The orange wire would have to be a constant (-) source during remote start.

Sorry this is so long, but i will tell you where all my wires are installed.
cn1
pin1- white/black-12v off,on,start
pin2-green/white-parking light wire at switch
pin3-red/white-same as pin1
pin4-white-heater acc wire
pin5-removed
pin6-yellow-starter wire
pin7-green/red-both to ignition wire
pin8-black-ground with other car grounds
cn2
pin4-clutch relay switch
cn3
pin1-light blue-parking brake wire at fuse box
pin2-hood trigger
pin3-lightblue/white-switch at brake
pin5-red/white-door trigger at fuse box
pin9-yellow/black-tach wire at fuse box

Any help will be greatly appreciated at this time.Forgive me for such a long post.
Thanks, Mario

fcm

Where did you get the Compustar? It sounds like there is a problem with the status and "E" brake leads, let me ask you this, when the car is running off the remote start, and "E" brake is off, does the "E" brake indicator light in the gauge cluster stay on?

I believe the light flash is programmable, default would be as you see it, flash for start mode, on steady for started and running mode.

The CN1/5 blue , ["5th relay"] only used/needed if your car has a 2nd ign., 2nd starter or 2nd acc., it should have been connected to the blue/white in the ign. switch harness, [2nd acc.] and JM1 should have been set to 2, [2nd acc.] for proper operation of the heater/blower... http://www.directwholesale.net...eID=3

The rear window defog needs only a pulse, just like when you press and release it, to turn it on, the ICU keeps it on, [timer].
Sorry I do not have a wiring guide for the defog switch for a 91 Civic. How many wires does it have?
What do they meter with ign. off, then with ign. on, and then when you press the switch, and then when you release it, don't forget the indicator bulb needs power and ground, it can get the 12V+ from the ign. wire, [12V+ when ign. is on] and the relay or ICU can supply the ground, or it can have a constant ground and be supplied 12V+ by the relay, or ICU, [supplied 12V+ or ground will be constant as long as "RWD" is on (bulb)].
There are more then a few ways a rear window defog system can work, the only thing that will be the same in all cars is the defog element itself will have 12V+ on one side and a ground on the other, either the 12V+, [most common] or the ground can be supplied by the relay.

I will check at work for more info on how to trigger it. 94

colnago

compustar was bought at a local audio sound place- Aspen auto sound and security-licensed dealer.

The car will not run off of remote start with ebrake off. just remote started car, got in and released e brake light went out but so did car. I left door open while doing this. Could not stop car without putting clutch in, no matter where ebrake was. but when i closed the door car would start with no clutch and ebrake on.

Yes, heater didn't work when i first started car, had white wire to yellow wire, took off and put to blue/white wire, ok now.

It has four wires to switch. Has timer built into it. One measured 12v+ all the time and one measured 12v+ when switch was pressed. other wires gave no measurement.

Don't know how to measure wire if it is neg. What do you look for on meter.

fcm

Don't know how to measure wire if it is neg. What do you look for on meter.
Use "continuity", next to ohms, the meter will "beep" when probes are touched together, ground one probe to cars chassis use other probe on wires meter will "beep" and readout will be 000, or very close to it, when a ground is detected. 94

fcm

Could not stop car without putting clutch in, no matter where ebrake was.

What do you mean you could not "stop car without putting clutch in"???? 94

colnago

sorry for the mistype, meant start. I could not start car without putting clutch in, no matter if ebrake was engaged, because door was open. When door was closed car would start with no clutch and ebrake engaged.

Did some more investigating. once in awhile car will start with clutch in, ebrake up, but if you fool with igntion switch, car will start without clutch ebrake up. tonite after work car tried to start without clutch ebrake up, but shut off before starting, had to use clutch. Also i have two constant 12v+ wires at ignition, does it matter what one I used.

So a neg pulse wire will make meter beep when it is activated. I knew about checking for continuity with grounds didn't know it was the same for checking neg pulse coming from wire.

Thanks,colnago

fcm, I have read other posts that you have replied to, and I know you install compustar products for a living. I respect your expertise. Do you think the module could just be bad, or is it my install that is messed up.


Modified by colnago at 2:16 PM 11/27/2006

fcm

As I said, sounds to me like there is a problem with the Compustar, [or your wiring] only the status wire should override/bypass the "Clutch Interlock Switch", supply the ground to the starter relay that the "CIS" does when you step on the clutch, setting the "E" brake should not, all setting the "E" brake should be doing is "telling" the Compustar that you are/have put unit in reservation mode, the "E" brake wire is not even needed when installing into an auto transmission.

I would recheck your wiring and if it is all good, take it back to the shop where you got it and show them how setting the "E" brake will allow you the start the car without stepping on clutch pedal.
I have not run into that problem, [yet] with the Compustar, or any other remote start for standard transmission for that matter. 94

colnago

fcm, what's going on. Just wanted to let you know that i figured what the problem was. I switched the black wire(GWR) in cn2 to the red/black wire in cn2. Car can now be started with ebrake up, with using the clutch only. I appreciated the help and advice that you gave me.
Much appreciated colnago