137

Before you read on, I saw this neat battery relocation tutorial on the net (here=http://wgbuckley.com/projects/battery.html) and I would like to tweak it basically to my needs and wants, since I am not installing an audio system some components I am going to suggest I install may be overkill. Also I'm doing this to a 240sx and not a WRX so the electrical is slightly different but the theory is still the same in a nutshell.


I own a 1996 240sx which had a battery location performed to it while in the previous owners hands. I did not think much about this until I met up with Desmon to install my alarm that the setup is unsafe. I've been wanting to fix this particular setup and never really was something I indented to leave in Desmons hand's since I only paid him to install a car alarm, and I would like to be more familiar with my cars electricity layout as I will be re-doing the car's harness from scratch once I upgrade to a stand alone ecu.

The positive battery cable runs under the car near the fuel lines, in short the only negative I see about this is if something happened to that cable that would cause it to set fire.

see here....




I'm thinking that isn't such a bad spot for the cable to be honest, you would think the power cable itself would get damaged from daily driving, but if I bought some proper mounting brackets for that line. I don't see how it could hurt having it down here right?

So I think I'm going to leave the power cable where it is, I may do some initial re-routing since I don't' really like it wrapped up into my subframe and what not. It's also not grommeted in the entry hole leading to the trunk that was made for it, gracious amounts of duct tape have been used as a grommet instead lol. Luckily for me it's worked all of this time (don't have pictures at the moment.)



Here is an under hood picture however. I need to replace this particular plastic piece with a power distribution block



I was looking at Lighning Audio's LD14 (Distribution block 1 input 4 output - (1) 4 or 8 Ga. Input and (4) 8 Ga. Outputs) @ $12.47



That doesn't seem to be a bad price. The products look pretty stout. The pricing isn't so bad either and it looks a lot less cornier than Stinger's equipment.

I don't really see the purpose of using a fused distribution block to be honest with you so I won't even list those as an option.

As far as battery clamps go I don't feel I need a fancy connector with an LCD readout unless that somehow is going to deliver better power distribution throughout the car it's overkill. So again I would go with two of Lightning Audio's LBC2 (Battery Clamp 2 inputs (+/-) - (2) 4 or 8 Ga.) for $19.97



And I would run a circuit breaker on the main power cable (140amp) which may be overkill but at least I know a solid unit would be in place. Yet again Lightning Audio LCB140 would be the item I would employ here.



The 140amp model costs the same so why not get a higher amp rating. I'll be running a stand alone ecu, a stack cluster, some other random power accessories. That should be a good insulator.

Another way to do this instead of the circuit breaker if you felt that was overkill would be to run an inline fuse at least withing 18in from your positive battery post, which I may have to do if I decide to run a separate set of positive and negative cables for remote jump access terminals.

The Secondary input's I guess I could use for jumper cable terminals? Or maybe install one of those cool remote battery charger deals so I can plug my car into an outlet to charge the battery when it's not in use since I wont be driving the car all that much.

Anyway I know I'm leaving something out, but I will upload a drawing of how I am plotting out the layout of all of this stuff, but the link I posted at the beginning of the thread should give a good idea of what I am aiming for.

137

bump uglies.

lee0149

ummmm not to be rude but worthless. why why why why why why why? if your scared someone is going to steal your car use all that wire to make like 5 kill switches.LOL

137

Um who the **** said anything about kill switches? That's a circuit breaker, you ever have the lights go out in your house do to an over amperage? tv turn off due to a power strip receiving a short from a lightning storm.

same deal, if the power wire gets damaged and grounds out on metal it will look like the 4th of july! and the car can catch on fire, it's a fail safe so my **** doesn't fry.

Has nothing to do with kill switches dude.

READ BEFORE POSTING
KNOW WHAT YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT BEFORE POSTING.

:thumb down:

lee0149

lol i know what those things are im not dumb. i miss read his writing. i thought he said having a alarm with battery up front is unsafe. due to the easy kill. so he puts it in the back. will still worthless. might as will get some bump.

fcm

A for effort but a C- for application, [wrong in so many ways].

But then again, that's just my opinion. 94

137

No the car has the battery relocated to the rear because it normally sits behind the factory passenger headlight, which also is in the way of intercooler piping, because I know one of those stupid little batteries will not supply enough power for this motor and it's accessories for normal running, turbo timer and multiple other systems. I need to run a full sized battery.

It's not done for weight savings or distribution purposes.

Also thank you for the worthless +1 to your post count fcm, will read again. The whole point of a discussion thread is to elaborate or share theory on the particular setup. This isn't the only board i've posted this one and it has gotten a lot of positive feedback and replies on other discussion forums.

The main point of discussion is the purpose of the front distribution block and it's purpose when I can daisy chain the power cable running to the starter, to the alternator and eliminate the block all together, but the block would make it a lot easier to provide extra power sources to any other items on the engine that would require an alternate power source, like external power coils, electric fans.

Can you please elaborate on your post, or just click the back button maybe?

JDM-EJ2

be careful with just that circuit breaker as your + disconnect. they can melt and leave your wire hot when it's the wrong time. i recommend using a fuse and a batt kill switch. much safer imo.

fcm

So where do you want me to start?
How about here...
Ditto the above^^^

An ANL fuse would be much better, although I can live without the kill switch.

So if you know it would be better to wire directly to the the starter motor and daisy chain off of it and all the distribution box is for is to make it easier to connect up other power accessories, why not just daisy chain the distribution block of the starter motor also, that way you wouldn't have to run current for the car through those POS AGU fuses not to mention all the extra connection points added to the power circuit.

You say, " because I know one of those stupid little batteries will not supply enough power for this motor and it's accessories for normal running, turbo timer and multiple other systems" so then why would you only run a 4ga cable, that's a long way to carry current, a 2ga would be much better at getting the current to the front of the car.
While we are here, why would you use a 100A breaker when 4ga cable capacity is 150A, [2ga would be over 200A].

If there was a problem, breaker contact points melt shut when 4ga cable shorts out, do you think your insurance company will pay up when they see that unprotected, 4ga car audio power cable, snaked over, under, around and through the under side of your car and held in place with a few cable ties?

If this is being done on a real tight budget, you would get points on finding the cheapest "ring" terminals in the world.

Don't take any of the above personally, you are right, I am only here to rack up my post count.94

137

The breaker could get hot and melt, or the fuses can pop in the fuse holder. I don't understand how a circuit breaker for a car can heat up and melt but a circuit breaker for a house wont melt?

Can someone break that down to me. I seriously am asking?

Well I don't know, I was making this thread to see what other people would recommend. My post is completely formulated by the design of the system the guy posted in the how to I linked, while also mentioning what else has been recommended.

I didn't think about it this way, I am trying to make this more efficient than jumping in and spending money on things I don't really need.

I don't know anything about designing circuits. Much less carrying current through certain lengths and I am trying to find out the best method as I have mentioned earler.


[quote]that's a long way to carry current, a 2ga would be much better at getting the current to the front of the car. While we are here, why would you use a 100A breaker when 4ga cable capacity is 150A, [2ga would be over 200A]

Well for 1, the amp I linked in my design is a 140amp breaker, the how to recommends a 100 for that particular setup. A 200amp would be useless because everything would burn out before the breaker would trip. 125 would be the sweet spot but I am hard pressed to find a breaker that size =(


I didn't originally route the cable this way, the previous owner of the car did. I want to replace all of this stuff, I don't really see the difference of the cable running under the car or inside the car really at this point granted I would route it differently once replaced with proper shielding and mounting brackets and not zip ties...

Whatever I need to spend really...

If you would've posted this up the first time around instead of the snide remark I could've saved mine, either way I greatly appreciate your input.

Thanks.

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

Well first, the pics does not do this justise. Its worse then it looks, lol. And to take the heat off his back, the op did not do this. 137 I have everything that you need for this. So I gave it to you since you and your gurl are so dam cool. Remember Shushi, rofl. And the pics have mad it on the net lol and I got a flood of calls. Please shoot me some pics of my other gurl, lol. I can't find them, lol. Back on topic, lol. Fcm is very correct on not using cb on the car. If they fail. They stay on. Tust me do not use them. Anl and 2 gauge wire are going to be your best friends.

Power cable does not live as long if its going to be under the car. I'll get you a diagram that I wired up for your car.