B-Rabbit20

I have a 95 honda civic EG Coupe, With factory power locks. The alarm I'm installed is the "Viper Responder LC3 5706V".
My issue is that my power locks isn't working with the alarm. The power lock and Unlock wires are Green/white and Green/red. I know these are the correct wires because these are the wires that I connected my own alarm system to which worked until it stop working until it die on me. The power locks work when you press the button on the door. My issue is what could be causing these wires not to work. What other solution can I use to have keyless entry. YES, the power locks do work and YES the alarm system I'm trying to install is brand new.








These are the LOCK and UNLOCK wires at the kick panel that I attached my old alarm to that use to work. But for some reason the alarm stop working and when I attached the new alarm (viper Responder LC3 5706v) the lock/unlock didn't work.





As you can see these wires are the right wires because as you can see there are black wire solder to the wires that I used for my old alarm.





This is a picture of the factory power lock system





These are the wires coming from the switch that I tried to attach the alarm directly to but it didn't work because it would lock but NOT unlock. BUT when I attach the unlock wire from the alarm to the wire from the switch it automatically unlock.

MotoCARR

What wires are you using off the 5706 to connect to the green/white, green/red?

B-Rabbit20

I'm using the light blue and green wires. Those are the wires that gives off the (-) unlock and lock output. According to the alarm manual those are the wires I'm suppose to use.

MotoCARR

If you take a piece of wire and touch each lock wire to ground, do the locks trigger?

Take a look at the picture, do you have at least the yellow highlighted connections made?
Is the door lock harness plugged into the correct port(highlighted red) and not in the bitwriter or sensor port which are also 3 pins?

B-Rabbit20

No, Everything on the left that's in the yellow highlight I have connected. But the things on the right in yellow I do NOT. I though I only had to connect the main harness. I don't plan on installing the remote start due to the fact that when I park my car I leave it in gear and don't want to accidently remote start my car in gear. And Yes, I do have the lock/unlock wires in the correct port. By any chance would you have a chart of where I should connect the wires on the right to in my 95 Honda Civic, EG Coupe.

MotoCARR

The yellow connections on the right definitely need to be made for the unit to not work. If you don't want the remote start to activate, DO NOT plug in the Neutral Safety Switch, or change the programming menu option in the "Remote Start" options to Automatic. Not plugging the switch in should keep everything functional but leave the remote start disabled. When you hit the remote start button, the unit should do absolutely nothing. No flashes, beeps, clicks, nothing at all.

B-Rabbit20

Thank You very much for the picture, but just to be sure is there anyway to tell me specifically where the wires go. Like pin 2 goes to ignition wire, pin 4 goes to starter wire, etc. I hope I'm not asking a whole lot I'm just trying to install this alarm correctly and learn something from it as well. I get the picture, but I don't completely understand the alarm wires and where should tap into.
ALSO, should I be recieving a reading from the green/red and green/white wires down at the kick panel, but I'm not, even when I pressing the power lock button I don't I trace the green/white and green/red wires, from the door harness to this plug in the pic. should this plug in or no???




I trace this wire from the door harness but there no where to plug it in, should this be plug in or no

MotoCARR

This should get you where you need to be, I think I have everything labeled correctly, but double check my work with a multimeter

************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************************** ****************************************
There are 9 heavy gauge wires coming from the large 10-pin connector. They
are used to energize the ignition circuits in the vehicle. It is crucial to ensure that
these connections are capable of handling the current demands. For this reason,
Scotch-Locks, T-taps and other such connectors are strongly discouraged.

H3/1 PINK IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
Connect this wire to the ignition wire in the vehicle. This wire not only supplies
voltage for the ignition line in the vehicle, it is also the ignition feed for the
security system.

H3/2 RED/WHITE (+) (30A) FUSED IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87
This wire is the polarity feed for the ignition 2/flex relay.

H3/3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT
Connect this wire to the accessory wire that powers the climate control system.

H3/4 VIOLET STARTER OUTPUT
This wire hooks up to the starter side of the starter wire in the car. This wire is
also pin 30 of the onboard starter kill relay.

H3/5 GREEN STARTER INPUT
After cutting the starter wire connect the GREEN wire to the end going to the
ignition switch. This wire is pin 87a of the onboard starter kill relay.


H3/6 RED (+) (30A) FUSED IGNITION 1 RELAY INPUT
This wire is the polarity feed for the Ignition1 relay.

H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 FLEX RELAY OUTPUT
This wire is factory programmed as Ignition 2 and can be programmed as a
2nd accessory or as a 2nd starter.

H3/8 PINK/BLACK 87a OF IGNITION 2 FLEX RELAY
This wire is used when an ignition switch isolation on the vehicle is necessary
This is common on Toyota and Nissan's which require the use of Tech Tip document
#1077. (See Menu #3, Feature #8, for programming options)
H3/9 RED/BLACK (+) (30A) FUSED ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY INPUT
This wire is the polarity feed to the accessory and starter relays
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************************** ****************************************

B-Rabbit20

Thank you very much, this is exactly what I needed. I get off in an hour. Once I get off I will go to my car to connect these wires and hopefully my locks will work. Also, did you see my last reply with the picture of the two wire plug that come from the door harness. It have the same color wires like the power locks,Green/Red and Green/white. Should this be left unplugged. Also should I have a battery voltage reading on the multi meter on the power wires down at the kick panel because I don't,..not even when I press the power lock buttons on the door.

MotoCARR

In my experience, I have always seen them unplugged. I would just run the wires to the same location you were using for the last alarm/keyless, even if that means going back into the door

MotoCARR

Those are negative trigger wires so you will not see 12v on those wires.

B-Rabbit20

Oh, ok. Thank you, you've been a great help. I will let you know the results when I get to my car.

MotoCARR

No problem, glad to help. Update with what happens.

B-Rabbit20

So I connected everything on the right and still no luck lol. What else can it be, how would I go about wiring from the door?

MotoCARR

Can you hear the viper clicking? Do the parking lights flash? Are you connecting the lock wires to the same ones in the car that you KNOW work 100%?

B-Rabbit20

Yes the viper clicks when I press the button, yes the lights flashes and yes I'm connecting them to the same wires. EVERYTHING works except for the locks lol. Is there a difference way to wire it from the door?

MotoCARR

-Take a piece of wire, touch one side to the civic lock wire, then tap the other side to bare metal/ground. Do the same with the unlock wire. Do the locks in the car move?

-Take your meter and set it to Voltage. Touch the red lead to a 12v constant power source, take the black and touch it to the lock wire. Then press the lock button on the remote. Do you see the voltage jump up then go back to 0? What does it jump to before falling to 0 again?

What unit did you have previously installed?

I don't think you would need it for your car, but what may be happening is you aren't getting a strong enough ground "pulse" from the Viper through the blue and green lock wires to trigger the locks.

B-Rabbit20

When I touch the civic lock/unlock wire with the ground nothing happened. BUT when I touch the wires from the switch with the ground they would lock and unlock.
When I pressed the unlock it went from 12.59 to 9.25
When I press the lock it when from 5.45 to 12.00

MotoCARR

If touching the civic lock/unlock wires directly to ground doesn't activate them, those are not the correct wires to be using. I have a feeling those are on the "switch" side vs the "actuator" side so when you're touching it to ground, nothing happens because it is being interrupted by the switch because at rest, it is normally open.

If touching the wires from the switch to ground make them work, those are the ones I would connect the light green & blue lock wires to.

Also, did you leave the neutral safety switch unplugged/disconnected from the unit?

B-Rabbit20

Good morning,
I've tried connecting the alarm wires to the switch wires but this is what I get: when I connect the blue wire to the unlock wire it automatically unlock as if I'm touching the ground to it. But when I connect the alarm lock wire, it works like it suppose to because when I press the lock button on the remote, it Locks. The unlock wire only works when I connect the wires together, as if I'm touching the ground to it. Someone told me the reason why that happen is because I'm in front of the relay when I should tap into wires from the back.Is this true?? If it is I don't know what wires to tap into because the only green/red and green/white wires that comes from that relay goes to the switch.

MotoCARR

This connector, was it attached to the back of the fuse box with blue tape?

B-Rabbit20

I don't believe so, it could have been, but I'm not sure. It was just back there behind the fuse box hanging there with all the other wires.

MotoCARR

Check to see if there is one taped back there, the tech sheets I am looking at note that some cars have it and could also be used to control locks.

Still chewing on why 1/2 you locks works where you are making connections lol

B-Rabbit20

I believe this is the connection that they were talking about because the connection on the end is apart of the wires that I tapped into. it's a possiable that there could be an open circuit somewhere because I get no continuity between the kick panel power lock wires and the power lock wires at the switch in the door.

MotoCARR

Do you get continuity when you hit the switch?