kmankd

iTrader: (3)

MORE PICS COMING... Updated Periodically

Hello everyone,
In this thread I will be posting up EVERYTHING I have done to my car over the year (bought it Oct 2012) and what I plan on doing in the future. There are several write-ups as to how things are done (I will link them) and I will also share my experience on the ones that were not as simple as it seemed. But before I move onto that I would like to give everyone who's ever posted a "How-To" or "DIY" or "Guide" a huge shout out and thanks for your contribution. Without these contributors along with supplement from a Helms manual, I, as well as almost everyone else, would not have been able to save $$$ by working on our own cars. I myself am not an avid mechanic. I'm just an electrician with basic knowledge of working on cars (oil change, tire rotation, spark plugs, fill gas lol). Over the past year I have learned so much through extensive research. I've spent hundreds of hours searching (shame on those who supposedly couldn't find an answer to their questions). You can sort of say it became an obsession. It all started when I had a 99 EK sedan (with ABS) that had horrible drum brakes and I wanted to do something about it. Rear ABS trailing arms were about $150 + paying mechanic $200 to install was sort of ridiculous. Anyhow, not too long after having the sedan I had to sell it to pay off medical expenses and later on I was able to purchase my "Eleanor" (Gone in 60 seconds). I've had an EG SI in high school and figured it'd be a nice commuter car since I do a lot of driving for work anyways. DO NOT buy a car online!!! (I was desperate in finding a Granada Black Pearl SI with ABS). Overall the car was shitty and it had a shitty Poorman's Type R in it. I wanted it to be legal so I traded it for something that I can BAR down the line. Since I know nothing of swapping motors, I actually downgraded to a B16A so that the person trading motors with me would install it as well. Anyhow let’s get on with the build...

Car: 1994 Honda Civic Si ABS (Granada Black Pearl)
Engine: B16A (Second Gen) w/ USDM P30 ECU
Transmission: OBD1 Acura Integra GSR
Suspension: Skunk2 Integra Coil Overs w/ KYB GR-2 Shocks

92-95 EG Differences Guide
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/what-differences-between-92-93-honda-civic-si-eh3-%22eg%22-94-95-model-2146595/
Chassis Code - https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/chassis-code-cheat-sheet-other-specs-too-2581875/

How she previously looked. (I lost all of my "before" photos of her due to losing my phone last year, good thing I was still able to find pics online of when she was for sale) from these photos she doesn't look too bad (nice angle shots in the shade) but after having her for two weeks the aftermarket hood's paint went away and there was so much rust showing.




The interior wasn't original. This interior is from a 92-93 si and the front seats were from an ex. Hated the rice pillar (later removed) and the big ole red push button (later destroyed)




The first thing I did was remove those god awful Miata wheels and when I attempted to do that, guess what? Some of the damn wheel studs were stripped because the nuts were put on hastily and killed all the threads. Other studs were broken off due to rust. When I was able to take off the wheels, a bunch of washers fell out... The previous owner ghetto rigged "spacers" onto this poor car. I did some research, didn't want to go with regular studs as I might want to do other things with it later on (brakes upgrade) so I looked into extended wheel studs. My god they are expensive! I looked for alternatives and then I found this:



OEM Extended Wheel Studs
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/another-wheel-stud-option-1996-1998-acura-tl-3-2-rear-wheel-studs-2319497/

Yes! OEM "Extended" wheel studs (96-98 Acural 3.2 TL Sedan Rear Wheel Studs) I was able to buy these from Oreilys for $1.19 each! Now onto replacing the wheel studs... but how? The shops around here wanted $130 per side!!!! I searched for an easy way to install these since I couldn't remove the hub due to not having the required tools. I ended hiring a mechanic on wheels from craigslist, but I did also find this, though I frown upon it:

Replacing Front Wheel Studs
http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=...1c385a0f48f510

For those WITH the tools to do it:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/how-diy-wheel-stud-replacement-pictorial-907985/

I went ahead and did some maintenance by cleaning the ABS sensors while the guy was putting on my wheel studs. Even though removing them seems simple enough, with my luck already I didn't want to take any more chances lol:

Servicing Front ABS Sensors
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/%2A%2A%2Ahow-%2A%2A%2A-check-clean-your-front-abs-wheel-sensor-1584925/

Now, time to put on my EP3 wheels for the front and be done with that part (I also bought 5mm wheel spacers and new oem lugs, this is for future work I plan on doing). I then moved onto the rear. Removing the rear wheel studs was soooooooooo much easier since there's a space for it to just pop out. No need to research for that (although there are tutorials on an Acura TL that can be found online). Installed new studs for the rear myself and then serviced the abs sensors:

Servicing Rear ABS Sensors
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/%2A%2A%2Ahow-%2A%2A%2A-check-clean-your-rear-abs-wheel-sensor-2205909/

I then replaced the center console with the EDM black center console and replaced the whack JVC radio with an EM1 radio
A few months later I started having all kinds of Check Engine troubles... I then found this to troubleshoot:

How To Pull Cell Codes
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/how-pull-cel-d4-srs-abs-codes-code-lists-1901557/

ECU & ABS Codes
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/ecu-abs-codes-here-978933/

Found out that I needed to replace an O2 sensor, MAP, and TPS. Also had a trouble code for a Knock Sensor; I didn't know that I did not have one. I was able to find info on it. Needed to know where a Knock Sensor is located and found this:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/b16-knock-sensor-o2-sensor-radiator-cooling-fan-2818302/

Wiring it was easy, did I mention I am an electrician? lol. (refer to previous link for pin out.) Here's a schematic:

http://technet.ff-squad.com/wiring.obd1.htm
http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f55/...inouts-217405/http://hondaswap.com/reference-mater...pinouts-28667/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/faq-need-ecu-pinouts-then-look-inside-478377/

A month or so after that my car started experiencing some sort of "stalling while accerlating" and since I didn't know how to look that up I asked for help (thanks to those who responded to my post). I was then able to pin point what the probable cause was and rebuild the distributor:

Troubleshooting - http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...eshooting.html
Testing - http://easyautodiagnostics.com/honda..._systems_1.php
Rebuild - http://www.team-integra.net/forum/19...r-rebuild.html

After rebuilding the distributor, she ran good again. I decided to do some maintenance. Oil Change with Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w30 (4 qts) with HAMP oil filter. New NGK Iridium IX spark plugs, new NGK spark plug wires, new 94-97 Del Sol Vtec/99-00 Civic Si air filter, then took it to the shop (not messing with these since I have no clue on what to do nor did I want to attempt this) for a new timing belt, water pump, ac belt, alt belt...$325... Came back like a week later due to the distributor just being **** (rebuilding it didn’t work so I had to replace it.) Every now and then my car would not start the first few times I attempt to... I assumed it was the retarded push start that was already in the car when I bought it so I rip that p.o.s. out. It ended up being the starter and here is how to replace it:

1. Disconnect battery (NEVER work on live equipment)
2. Remove intake tube (makes it easier to work on as the starter is sort of under this area attached to motor.
3. Disconnect the plug for the starter
4. Remove (2) 14mm bolts that secure the starter to the motor. (The rear one is hard to get to, you'll probably need a 6 inch extension as I did.
5. Reverse order for install

Now, she runs like a C-H-A-M-P-I-O-N!!! (for another 2-3 weeks). Man it seems like I can't catch a break with this car lol... It's starting to get harder and harder to shift, and I noticed I am starting to lose clutch fluid. Guess where it was? INSIDE THE CABIN!!! Found out the Clutch Master Cylinder was bad causing the leak to go inside the car when stepping onto the clutch. I looked up how to replace it, and also saw that there's also a clutch slave cylinder. Decided I'm just going to replace both just to be on the safe side (with my luck and all) :

Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/how-replace-clutch-master-cylinder-2596523/

Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement
http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=211611

I bled it with Dot 3 brake fluid for now (it is just my DD, no need for special fluids). Just when things were getting better, my speedometer and rpm gauge goes out. At least it isn't mechanical this time. I had a spare EM1 cluster and wanted to see if I can somehow get that to work together... it IS possible:











*NOTE* Do not use connectors like how I initially did. I used them because it was what I had at the time. After doing this method you have to try and cram a huge bundle of connectors into the gaps to try and fit the cluster in. Since then, I went out and purchased a Weller cordless soldering kit, watched youtube on how to solder (VERY EASY) and went back to solder all the wires and heat shrink the solder points. MUCH MUCH BETTER!





Connectors removed from the pig tails (Wasted about 2 hours of putting them on, and then going out to the car and trying to fit it in... It is possible and it works, but I it's a lot better to just solder. Weller cordless solder kit $40 (iirc), Butane $7, Rosin Core 60/40 (I think this is the one I'm using) $8, and Shrink Tube Assortment Kit $10... for $65 dollars I am still using these items for many of my wiring projects and still have a ton of solder, butane, and shrink tubes left over. Although I may need to replace my soldering tip soon...



Installed




EK to EG Cluster
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/ek-cluster-eg-2612122/#post48818119
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/99-si-cluster-my-93-eg-%2Apics%2A-2738715/

There wasn't any problems, with a dremel, a solder, and patience you can do wonders. It was the beginning of spring when I attempted to use my moonroof. What do you know. It needs "help" to work. At first I was just looking for a motor to replace it but found a whole sunroof assembly for $15 (my moonroof also had a crack in the glass):

Moonroof Overhaul
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/how-do-sunroof-over-haul-92-95-civic-eg-2955891/

I probably broke every clip to remove the headliner lol. While installing this, i was tired of driving at night and feeling like every truck out there is high beaming me. At first, I was just looking for a cheap auto dimming mirror...Then decided to buy something with all the bells and whistles. A Gentex mirror with homelink, map light, outside temperature and compass (lights up amber). Now there isn't a write-up for this for Honda/Acura, I think it's because no one cares to have it on their car. I decided to go ahead and do this myself. There's going to be a total of (6) wires (assuming you get the same mirror as me with outside temp, map light, compass, and homelink). I also realized that most mirrors have differentiating colors for wiring so there really is no point in showing you what wire goes where but let's base it off of mines:

*WARNING* DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES THAT MAY OCCUR DUE TO YOUR INEXPERIENCE/NEGLIGENCE

(Gentex to EG)
Red - 12V Constant Power
Black - Ground
Blue - Feed to dome light (White/Red)
Yellow - Feed to dome light (Lt Green/Red)
Purple and Brown - Feed through firewall and connect to included temp sensor

*NOTE* In order for map lights to work without blowing a fuse you have to increase the Interior Light fuse rating from 7.5A to 10A. By doing so, the increased load will not burn the fuse.






(Ignore the AC control unit, I will be attempting to do a full JDM Auto Climate conversion soon)

Immediately after installing this I decided it was time to get rid of that stupid bumper and repaint the fenders and hood. Found a Granada Black Pearl bumper the week before and finally got to put it on. Did a quick fix job on the hood and fenders to prevent rust. I didn’t get to do the whole car due to my landlord and neighbors frowning on me lol. In November I decided to do a full fluid maintenance on my car (Engine oil, Tranny fluid, Coolant flush, Brake flush) and finally getting around to adding windshield washer nozzles (I don’t know why it was removed in the first place, maybe the p.o. wanted it to be fast lol. Here’s what I followed:






EG Windshield Washer Nozzle Retrofit Guide
http://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum...upgrade-74028/

How To Change Transmission Fluid Guide
http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21629
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...luid-gen3.html

Changing Manual Transmission Fluid Guide
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/default-%5Bfaq%5D-how-change-your-civic-manual-transmission-fluid-1687986/

Coolant 101
http://www.civic-eg.com/viewtopic.ph...ed18515bfd4203

Flushing Coolant Guide
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...e-(EG-EK-DC2)&


I did a lot of research on what brakes I wanted to put onto my car (read a ton of articles and BrakeExpert) and was deciding between going NSX all around or ITR fronts with EP3/RSX rears. I ended up buying all three as I couldn’t decide. I was unable to find a rear bracket (fastbrakes no longer made them) to install the nsx rears onto my car. Yes there are a lot of cons such as the rears may lock up due to brake bias and all that stuff but I really liked them. Even though I did not like the idea of having to bleed the rears of the EP3/RSX upside down due to the nipples being on the wrong side and the fact that the left and right had to be switched, I ended up going that route, ITR fronts and EP3/RSX rears. Installing it was pretty straight forward, depending on which route you went. I wanted to stay 4x100 and I definitely did not want to shave off 3.2mm on the caliper bracket. Found out if I add 3.2mm spacing, it would work out. I bought the 3.2mm spacer from Katman. Due to needing spacers to get the brakes to straighten out, your current oem wheel studs will not work since it is not long enough. That’s why I went with “extended studs” in the beginning and just had 5mm spacers to make up for the excess length until I upgraded my brakes. For the rears you will need to swap the e brake components from your old calipers and put them onto the new calipers. I did not have time to research this at the time I was doing it (it was getting dark and I don’t have a garage where I could work on my car all night) but just removed the components from one caliper at a time, that way if you forget what goes where, you still have the one that you didn’t take apart as a guide to put it back! After putting everything back together, bleed your brakes. I don’t have a nifty hand bleeder so I did it the old fashion way. Made my wife go outside into the cold and pump my brakes lol. Here are my references for doing my brake install as well as bleeding:


(Excuse my dirtiness, they were brake dust from the old set up)

Integra Type R



NSX


GSR Brakes Removed





11” Front Brakes Upgrade Guide
Spoon - http://honda-eg6.blogspot.com/2012/0...per-45020.html
Type R - http://www.teamdelsol.com/technical/howto/bigBrakes/
NSX - http://forums.nwp4life.com/zerothrea...print&id=30814



(Excuse my dirtiness, they were brake dust from the old set up)

10.2” Rear Brakes Upgrade Guide
http://www.carolinahondas.com/instal...our-honda.html
http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-f...e-upgrade.html
http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=7629
NSX - https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/11%22-fastbrakes-adapter-anybody-got-pics-2208289/


Brake Bleeding Guide
http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=153653


Things seem to be going great again, and everything was fine for a few months.. Then my clutch pedal went to the floor while I was on my way home from work. Had to have it towed to a shop to repair due to me being so far from home (thank goodness for having AAA for towing and my work paid for my repairs). My SS clutch line blew and even though I requested to have an oem clutch line be put in, the shop replaced it with a new SS clutch line at no additional charge.

After all the bs mechanical and maintenance work, finally some time to clear my garage and install some parts that have been dying to put on. The easy stuff first of course... I purchased a one-piece JDM Stanley LED rear wing from highmilehatch (thanks again!) to replace my Wing West LED wing that the car came with. Everything was in great condition, but as you know it, I ran into a snag. Previous owner cut the connector off and ghetto spliced (twist & tape) the wing to the car. I had some oem speaker connector and plugs laying around (I love collecting oem connectors & plugs when I go to the junk yard) and solder new connector and plug to the car and wing. Installation is straight forward. 4 nuts, iirc they were like 8mm or 10mm.

Wing West LED



Stanley One-Piece


Next I installed EDM rear tail lights w/fogs. I got the lights in, but I haven’t wired them up yet due to working on a retrofit for my fogs. I plan on using many of Deschlong’s DIY (check out his page he has a ton of DIY) such as this rear fog retrofit, I am going to make the fogs work on both sides and maybe even getting them to be on normally and then bright when my fogs are on...haven’t decided yet.

EG Rear Fog Retrofit Guide
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/%5Bdiy%5D-honda-civic-92-95-oem-rear-fog-lamp-retrofit-install-guide-2481875/

Now on to the front fogs, I originally wanted JDM fogs but I didn’t want to spend $200+ for a set. Instead, I spent about $100 (your expense may vary) for my fog light retrofit. I purchased some used (non-working) aftermarket fogs for $10. Took apart the whole thing, dremel cut the fog housing and threw away the glass end. Kept the other half to reuse with the base. I bought broken EK Raybrig fogs for $25 and removed the wiring/connectors. Kept the wiring/connectors and tossed the rest. EK Raybrig fog light connectors plug into EG fog light harnesses. I was able to find an EG fog light harness AND switch from the junkyard... FOR $17 dollars!!! I like the idea of having yellow fogs but I didn’t want to fork out $80 for some HID fogs and have to figure out where to hide the ballasts etc. Found a post where IS300 lenses were retrofitted onto EG fogs. There were several versions to this but I really didn’t want to hack away on my car, so I was glad to find the lense retrofit instead. I’m not finished with the retrofit yet, haven’t cut the holes on my bumper. Here’s the DIY on that:






IS300/ES300 Retrofit - https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/%5Bfaq%7D-diy-lexus-is300-es300-fog-lights-retrofitted-into-eg-2746135/
Installation - https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/eg-foglight-harness-diagram-2526151/

Before even finishing that I started on installing my EDM adjustable headlights. This was a fairly easy install. (*Note* go to harbor freight, buy like 3 packs of ¼” wire wrap/loom whatever you want to call it. The ¼” size comes in 14ft lengths. With 3 packs, you will have enough to all wiring projects in your car.) I made a wire harness soldering wires and heat shrinking the solder joints then wrapping it with the wrap/loom to make it look like oem. I ran this through my passenger side since that was an easy route to get to with the hole already accessible. I didn’t put the switch into my arm rest because there are only two slots and I plan on using those two slots for something else. I route it into my glove box and left plenty of wire for the ease of relocation when I figure out what I want to do with it. (I plan on doing heated seats like Deschlong and maybe a bumper pole, if no bumper pole then in goes the headlight switch). Now to wire the daytime running lights, I didn’t want them to constantly be on. Was able to find out how to get them to turn off when the headlights come on by creating a false ground. Just wire the DRL power to the corner’s power and ground the DRL to the headlight’s power. Here’s the DIY on this project:

EG EDM Headlight Install Guide
http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=17199




EG DRL Install Guide
http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=84720
http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=10513

Immediately after doing the headlights I went ahead and installed EDM side markers. I used a template I found online (google it). One suggestion I have is to spend $5 and buy sticker paper then print the template onto it. Don’t shortcut by using clear tape and taping the regular paper to the fender because I’ve seen people mock up their cuts. If you use sticker paper, you will kill two birds with one stone. The paper will stick to the fender perfectly. It will not shift when cutting, AND after your cut, the area is already masked so just shoot the cut with some paint. Peeling off the sticker is simple and it will not leave any sticker leftovers. If you are going with the EDM side markers, the original template will not fit. You will need to make the cut an eighth of an inch wider (vertically) and a quarter of an inch longer on the opposite side of where the clip goes. I wired my side markers to be on and flash opposite of the side markers.







EG JDM Side Marker Retrofit Guide
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/gunmotos-92-95-civic-eg-4dr-sedan-side-marker-template-diy-2685164/
http://web.archive.org/web/201012161...sidemarker.htm

Wiring - http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=84704

EG pre-cut JDM Fenders (or you can buy them pre-cut here)
http://www.andysautosport.com/honda/...m00167310.html


Current Photos (Really Needs a Wash =/)





Well that is pretty much it for now, tune in periodically for updates on my work, research, and input on DIYs. Thanks for looking.

derek_k

Cool build man, good info in this

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

^ This. Nice work and I like all the links to the work you did.

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

Damn, really liking that mirror. Can you take a better picture or two in the daylight? Would you recommend one? Thanks.

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Derek and Deschlong for your help! Rotieatter I would definitely recommend installing a gentex mirror. You can get one without all the bells and whistles for like $20. I just wanted homelink and the map light. The compass and outside temp was just icing on the cake. Installation is fairly straight forward. When putting it onto your current clip on the windshield, I would recommend putting a penny or nickel in between the mirror base and the metal clip on the windshield. Doing so will make the mirror more solid/stable. I tightened it all the way without a coin and even tho I couldn't screw it in anymore the mirror was still a bit loose. Ill post up more pictures tonight. After installing this I do not mind driving at night anymore at all because those trucks with hid or high beam no longer blind me

*EDIT* More Pics Added (Above AND Below!)


Here's a pic of my antenna block off/delete plate. Removing the antenna is pretty simple, just follow the plug from the radio to the under dash of the driver side and it goes up through the pillar.



Gut my interior as well, excuse the mess...




Also added this... Spoon Sports Wiper Blades!!!

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

Hey again... Added more things while on my break today... JDM EG stock air box and arm. the old air box didn't really fit and I traded for it so was a good deal. Put in a 99-00 Si air filter. Also installed an ITR front strut bar. Rather than buying random bolts to install the strut bar, I bought oem honda bolts and nuts. Part numbers listed below, you will need (4) of each.

http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com
94050-08070 NUT, FLANGE (8MM) $0.28 (4) $1.12
95701-08016-08 BOLT, FLANGE (8X16) $0.44 (4) $1.76

Installation is simple. Remove the rubber grommets at the shock tower. Jack up the car, stick bolt up from fender well and through the strut bar, put the nut on. This part isn't necessary but I did it for piece of mind... Put a drop of thread lock (red) on it before bolting it down. I do this because things vibrate, it can come loose. I've lost a frame slider on my bike because the vibration caused the bolts to loosen so now I threadlock just about everything.


(Yeah I don't like the painted red valve cover, will eventually paint it back to wrinkle black.)

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

Forgot to mention my EK side skirts. The rear clip of the side skirt lines up with the last hole on the car. I put all the clips onto the side skirts and then dab shoe paint onto the tip of each clip then touched it onto the car. That sets you up to drill holes (I wanted all the clips to fit). Use a step drill bit to slowly drill the holes, then use a file to shape them so the circles become squares. Make sure to spray some paint over the fresh holes to prevent rust. After securing the side skirts to the car, I then used a sawzall to trim the length at the front. Finally, install the front mudguard and you're done! I'll have more pics up over the weekend.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

This is quite the hole in your dash. PO, I suspect? Ever plan to do anything with that TCS switch? Such as ... retrofit TCS? Given that the car already has ABS and a B16 (and the switch!), you've already passed some of the biggest hurdles. A TCS retrofit is probably one of the last remaining OEM retrofit installs on 5th Gen Civics that has never been done. I'm putting together a "theoretical" DIY, but your setup seems like the perfect candidate to be the guinea pig. No pressure.

Also, do you mind sharing where you decided on final placement for your EDM adjustable headlight switch in the glove compartment? This is where I was planning on putting mine also since both armrest switches are occupied.

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

LOL yeah I was pretty PO because there was a short in the push start (which came with the car) and I didn't have any tools on me and my coworkers already left for the day. The only thing I had was an lineman's pliers. I do have a replacement (had it for 6 months now) but I just haven't had the time to replace it. I would need a whole weekend maybe more to do it since if I'm going to replace that, and since I'd already have the ac control unit out, I would want to kill dozens of birds with one stone by doing the JDM auto climate control with all of the parts necessary to do the swap (I've had this for well over a year). I still haven't decided on where to install my EDM headlight switch. For the moment, I have 10ft of wire wrapped up in a bundle and behind my center console. I'll shorten and resolder it as needed when I decide on exactly where. I'm thinking somewhere in the glove box if it doesn't get in the way of anything when opening or closing. and if that doesn't work then maybe in the back of the DIN pocket? I also tried looking up some DIY for anyone who may have tried to cut additional slots onto their arm rest to fit additional switches (no luck). I have the jdm long arm rest which I have not installed yet or would even dream of experimenting on (I would practice on my stock arm no armrest piece first). As for the TCS switch, I just have it hooked up to light up with my dash for fun lol. I would like to attempt a TCS retrofit but I would need a garage for that. At my current residence I do not have a garage to work on my car. Most of my work have been done on the street and by nightfall I already have to pack everything up so that it doesn't get stolen. I am curious to read your theory on how to get it done though, maybe its something as simple as wiring (which I can do in a skippy). I also have to fix my ABS as well. I tried pulling codes but none shows up. I troubleshoot all the wires and they were good. Only thing I can think of is to just replace the entire unit, which I have no funds/knowledge on how to do so it would have to be a shop. I just installed a Del Sol Vtec P30 intake manifold the other weekend. Took me two weeks to do since I broke the pcv valve and had to order another one lol. Was good to replace it anyways since it was so grimy. If we lived nearby you can help me experiment on my car all you want, just let me use your garage or land space lol

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

At this point, you're looking at: JDM P30 ECU with provision for TCS, JDM Cluster with the TCS lights (also has door-open indicator), TCS brain (mounts next to ABS brain), and the wiring between it all. (Also consider any changes to wiring required for the JDM ECU due to different/fewer sensors, etc.) You will also need to fix your ABS. Wiring is the biggest headache and if you're good at that then you are way further ahead than the average Joe.

I presume you're somewhere in 'MURICA so likely far away from me.

I know someone willing to part with one or more of these pieces so there's another part of the battle over with.

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

Well there's going to be a problem. I removed all of the eg cluster pig tails for the cluster and soldered the ek pig tails to plug the si cluster in. I will also have to use my current usdm P30 ecu (working on getting my engine bar'd) so it'll be awhile before I can pick up a JDM P30 with TCS. Fixing my ABS is on my to do something this year list. haha. my problem is too many projects, too little time, no space, and have a kid + one on the way. Wiring is easy for me, but the money for the parts could be a problem. Takes me awhile to slowly purchase everything because with my current situation I can't up and buy everything all at once. I live in southern california and occasionally go to san francisco or sacramento. out of curiosity, how much are those pieces? (cluster, ecu, tcs brain, etc)

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

^ Correct JDM cluster, JDM ECU w/ TCS probably run about 2 bills each. TCS brain ... dunno because it's not a common item.

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

ah I see... thanks for the info. I'll keep my eye out for all of the parts and see what my budget would run if I start saving up for it. I was actually trying to get my work to pay for my roof rack lol. I don't have a truck so I can't transport ladders and such items. hopefully that gets approved and I can use what I'm saving for towards the tcs set up instead of roof rack.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

I wonder if you could daisy chain the ECUs together so you add the emissions features/sensors of the USDM one to the JDM one with TCS. Curious......

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

Rather than daisy chain I'm sure the chips can be desoldered from one and soldered to the other. It's just a matter of identifying the components. (IE. Immobilizers can be disabled by desoldering and jumping components inside the ecu)

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the better pictures of the mirror. Looks pretty good and I see a lot of value in the auto dimming feature. Thanks again!

Edit - Why does it say "ICE" in one of the pictures? Does it not read below a certain temperate? Just curious.

Brice.Hayden

iTrader: (15)

Interesting thread so far. Curious where it is going next.

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

I can't say how much I LOVE MY MIRROR enough lol. I purposely did not tint my car due to cops around here loving Hondas. I usually get pulled over at the light right before my neighborhood. The questions are always the same. "Where you headed?" home... "Where you coming from?" school... "Whats in the backpack?" my books..."Do you know why I pulled you over?" because i'm an asian guy with a honda and you think schools don't open at night? "Because there have been reports of illegal racing and your vehicle fits the description." well you have a long night ahead of you.


It says ICE in the picture because I unplugged the mirror w/o unplugging the battery to wrap the wireloom on it that day. By doing so it caused an error in the mirror and so you would have to have your vehicle off for 2.5 hours then turn the car back on for it to erase according to the manual. But to do a fast reset, just unplug the battery, then plug the mirror back in, then wait like 5-10 mins, then plug the battery back in and it should be set.


Thanks! so far, my plans are to just finish up all of the small projects to restore the car. The main project that I have all the pieces for is to do an actual auto climate control. I also have something in mind for maybe an auto-headlight feature. My main goal is to basically add all of the features that a modern day fully loaded honda has minus the leather seats and maybe minus navigation as well.

alldayda9

I must say, I'm really lovin that EM1 cluster install! Looks so sick, and surprisingly factory.

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

Thanks a lot! It was actually pretty easy to do. Gut both clusters, then have them side by side and trim the EK cluster to shape like the EG cluster and even though the cluster pieces wont fit 100%, it'll fit well enough to where it'll be flush. I just didn't glue the face plate on yet because I am debating whether or not I want to add a hole for the maintenance button. I'm afraid of cracking the face plate if I dremel it. Otherwise I would have sealed it and it'll be one piece. I initially did this because I already have the cluster from my last car.... Somewhat entertaining the idea of having a jdm cluster with TCS and Door open indicators as Deschlong mentioned... but I don't want to have KM instead of MPH.



On another note- I haven't had time to take more pics or do additional work on my car due to having an extremely busy weekend. I'll chime in periodically though.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

That's why you need the Yellow Box speedo calibrator. And your cluster will read MPH.

kmankd

iTrader: (3)

man you sure know how to persuade a fella to change directions lol. If I'm lucky enough to find a cluster w/tcs and open door etc. I'll probably pick that up and then sell my cluster.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Complicating your build - one post at a time. My work here is far from done.

SozeHuck

Very detailed build. Wish I had seen your build before I started mine. lol would have saved me some pennies and some dummy tax.

(teh)H2OUUP2

Damn, that's smart never would of thought of using a recalibrator...I have this box in my Tundra = D